2010 Mitsubishi 3D DLP Owners Thread (638 series) - Page 39 - AVS Forum
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post #1141 of 1377 Old 10-05-2011, 12:57 PM
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Is the optical engine the same thing as the light engine in this tv set ?
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post #1142 of 1377 Old 10-05-2011, 01:56 PM
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I have a faint, high-pitched "buzz" coming out of my 65-C10. I haven't placed a service call yet (doesn't seem to bother anyone but me) but will soon. The sound is there even if the TV is on mute. It seems to come on as soon as the blue startup screen appears. Anyone have any thoughts on this?
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post #1143 of 1377 Old 10-05-2011, 02:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by h2dk View Post

I have a faint, high-pitched "buzz" coming out of my 65-C10. I haven't placed a service call yet (doesn't seem to bother anyone but me) but will soon. The sound is there even if the TV is on mute. It seems to come on as soon as the blue startup screen appears. Anyone have any thoughts on this?

So does my 73738, but after 1-2 minutes it goes away Is it normal warm up?
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post #1144 of 1377 Old 10-05-2011, 03:13 PM
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Most DLPs have a faint high pitch whine. The majority of people don't notice it if there is sound comming from the speakers or from a normal sitting distance. However because each individual person's hearing sensitvity is different there will always be the exception that can hear the whine. In DLP there are several spinning parts that can cause a whine. There are more than one fan and there is the color wheel. For the sound you can hear "spinning up" I susptect it is the color wheel comming up to speed.
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post #1145 of 1377 Old 10-05-2011, 03:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GEP View Post

Most DLPs have a faint high pitch whine. The majority of people don't notice it if there is sound comming from the speakers or from a normal sitting distance. However because each individual person's hearing sensitvity is different there will always be the exception that can hear the whine. In DLP there are several spinning parts that can cause a whine. There are more than one fan and there is the color wheel. For the sound you can hear "spinning up" I susptect it is the color wheel comming up to speed.

Kinda figured that. Thanks!
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post #1146 of 1377 Old 10-08-2011, 12:12 AM
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Over the last week or so I have noticed off and on a image flicker on my 60c10. When it happens its very similar to how old crt monitors would look when you had the refresh rate set too low.

Its about 10 months old I wonder if the bulb is doing it or something else, either way guess its time to call up mitsubishi and get them to do something about it.
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post #1147 of 1377 Old 10-10-2011, 03:12 AM
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Hi. I just received my 65C10 two days ago. I notice that the remote control is different than the one that came with my 65C9 I purchased last year. Did the remote control lose the universal remote feature? I can't seem to find a way to change to different input devices in the remote control to operate it. Also, where's the change log for v12.02 firmware? I received mines with v12.01.
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post #1148 of 1377 Old 10-12-2011, 11:56 PM
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my setttings on Natural Mode
Brightness: 30
Contrast: 95
Color: 20
Tint: 0
Sharpness: 50
Video Noise: Off
Color Temperature: Low I've found on that mode to be the most accurate picture.
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post #1149 of 1377 Old 10-13-2011, 04:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kenkraly2004 View Post

my setttings on Natural Mode
Brightness: 30
Contrast: 95
Color: 20
Tint: 0
Sharpness: 50
Video Noise: Off
Color Temperature: Low I've found on that mode to be the most accurate picture.

20 for the color is nearly black n white...

check my about me to see my HT gear


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post #1150 of 1377 Old 10-14-2011, 08:21 AM
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20 for the color is nearly black n white...

I set it to 25 and it's prefect now and you right 20 percent is closer to black white and not color.
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post #1151 of 1377 Old 10-18-2011, 12:21 AM
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noticing a flicker when using my screen as a monitor and dont when i watch hdtv. both are connected via high speed HDMI cables. really hoping my 60638 isnt losing a bulb so soon and wondering if a firmware upgrade would fix things?
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post #1152 of 1377 Old 10-18-2011, 01:38 PM
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Originally Posted by pseudonym View Post

noticing a flicker when using my screen as a monitor and dont when i watch hdtv. both are connected via high speed HDMI cables. really hoping my 60638 isnt losing a bulb so soon and wondering if a firmware upgrade would fix things?

Cant hurt to try...Mit told me that its recommended to always keep our tv's up to date

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post #1153 of 1377 Old 10-19-2011, 09:46 PM
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been like 10 minutes and sofar sogood.
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post #1154 of 1377 Old 10-19-2011, 10:11 PM
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aaaaaaaand there it is, though not as bad as it was.
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post #1155 of 1377 Old 10-25-2011, 12:22 PM
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My pulsing/flickering/strobing or whatever you wanna call it turned out to be something in the light engine they swaped out the whole light engine(likely it was the color wheel they said)

So if your still having similar that may be where you want to look if you still have coverage on the set.
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post #1156 of 1377 Old 10-25-2011, 02:46 PM
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How can you tell what firmware version your tv has? I have a 73C11.

Never mind I found it, and successfully upgraded to the latest firmware.
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post #1157 of 1377 Old 10-26-2011, 04:45 PM
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Spoke too soon mine did the same damm thing a bit last night still even with the new lamp and light engine. Wonder just what else is left for them to change? ballast/power supply maybe?
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post #1158 of 1377 Old 10-26-2011, 08:52 PM
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I must be far from a videophile as far as my eyes are concerned. I've tried all the calibration settings I can find and I still prefer the look of the factory settings on my 73c10. Guess I just prefer the color a bit more "colored" than most.
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post #1159 of 1377 Old 10-27-2011, 06:42 PM
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I hooked up the PC to the HDMI on the TV today and played some Black Ops in 1920 x 1080 on my WD-73C10. Wow it looked great! No noticeable response Lag. My PC lags a little bit on its own pushing out this resolution though. If im gonna play on this TV im going to have to get another graphics card and run SLI, or get a much faster card and some more RAM.

I wish I had the 3D glasses so I could try that out, but I think my PC would choke trying to output a 3D signal at that resolution.

Currently im Running a single Nvidia GTX 550 ti. If I go SLI I still dont know if it would handle 3D. Maybe a single GTX 580 would handle it, I dont know for sure. I might need to upgrade to a faster processor too. Im only running a Phenom 3 core. Might be time for the 6 core version since its price went down with the release of the new processor line from AMD.
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post #1160 of 1377 Old 11-12-2011, 05:04 AM
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I am having the same problem with my tv with the light flicker. It seems to be happening more often. I am nervous about being able to reproduce the problem for a technician. I have a warranty with squaretrade. I just wish they would refund me for the entire purchase price of the tv. I don't want them to replace a part for $500 or so only to have it reoccur soon after and then have another $500 service call. Then I would have just used up my entire warranty. Any tips on getting the technician to tell squaretrade the tv is shot?
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post #1161 of 1377 Old 11-12-2011, 03:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mjf5012 View Post

I am having the same problem with my tv with the light flicker. It seems to be happening more often. I am nervous about being able to reproduce the problem for a technician. I have a warranty with squaretrade. I just wish they would refund me for the entire purchase price of the tv. I don't want them to replace a part for $500 or so only to have it reoccur soon after and then have another $500 service call. Then I would have just used up my entire warranty. Any tips on getting the technician to tell squaretrade the tv is shot?

How long have you had the tv ? Call Mitsubishi if still under a year
First thing you should try & change is the lamp

That would be quick fast ups shipping , the rest of the parts like light engine or color wheel there going to tell you is backorder , going to take weeks
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post #1162 of 1377 Old 11-12-2011, 05:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TatorTot View Post

How long have you had the tv ? Call Mitsubishi if still under a year
First thing you should try & change is the lamp

That would be quick fast ups shipping , the rest of the parts like light engine or color wheel there going to tell you is backorder , going to take weeks

I got it one year and 4 days ago. I am just outside the one year warranty. Maybe they would still honor it. I will call. I dont think it is the lamp because it is still as bright as usual and it doesn't take any longer to turn on.
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post #1163 of 1377 Old 11-12-2011, 08:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mjf5012 View Post


I got it one year and 4 days ago. I am just outside the one year warranty. Maybe they would still honor it. I will call. I dont think it is the lamp because it is still as bright as usual and it doesn't take any longer to turn on.

You should call Mitsubishi still , they only asked me which month i got it not the date

Just lie


If you get caught just say it was a mistake , doesnt Hurt to try

Specially since is a few days
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post #1164 of 1377 Old 11-13-2011, 10:45 AM
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Where can i get this tv for below $1k i dont see it anywhere anymore

Is not on dell
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post #1165 of 1377 Old 11-13-2011, 03:39 PM
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If anyone needs any parts for one of these units, I'm essentially parting one out. I have the light engine (with bulb) listed in the Classifieds now.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/vbcla...do=ad&id=16529

If you need anything else, let me know soon before I haul the rest to the dump.
Everything is there and in working order except for the screen. See my post in this topic for info.
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post #1166 of 1377 Old 11-14-2011, 03:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nicholc2 View Post

Originally Posted by nicholc2

That's interesting. I'd love to see the values you measured with your calibration equipment that showed this anomaly. Please post your x,y,Y values from each mode.

Still waiting...

Sorry for the late reply, things have been busy. The color shift that I mentioned in my email can be visually seen in the Bright and Brilliant modes. One or more other posters here confirmed that. That's mainly because the Tint adjustment is limited between red and green only. Sadly, these sets can't even be calibrated to the AVS HD 709 color bar chart.

I didn't bother to purchase or rent a calibration device to calibrate this HDTV because it doesn't offer discrete color/tint adjustment. But I've been a video editor and have a very keen eye when it comes to video adjustments, thanks to working with TBC, waveform, and vector scopes.
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post #1167 of 1377 Old 11-14-2011, 03:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jowens1126 View Post

I hooked up the PC to the HDMI on the TV today and played some Black Ops in 1920 x 1080 on my WD-73C10. Wow it looked great! No noticeable response Lag. My PC lags a little bit on its own pushing out this resolution though. If im gonna play on this TV im going to have to get another graphics card and run SLI, or get a much faster card and some more RAM.

I'm about to update my settings based on a recent Nvidia driver update and re-calibration. But I want to keep it as a separate posting so it stands out better for those that are doing a search. So please take note to that posting to maximize your PC settings for both games and video.
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post #1168 of 1377 Old 11-14-2011, 04:21 PM
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Updated: 11/27/2011

After updating to the latest Nvidia drivers my picture quality took a turn for the worse which resulted in some research and re-calibration. Listed below are my current settings and the reasons why.

1) If you're using a PC, then be sure to set you C10/638 to use the "input label" of "PC" for the PC input. Doing this will result in your C10/638 treating the signal as 0-255. This is important since I've noticed if you calibrate the C10/638 using the other input labels that it results in some additional black crush - where blacks fall off too soon. This is also done so that desktop programs and games look correct on the HDTV. If you use the other input labels, then ONLY video will look correct and ONLY if you make the appropriate settings, which I'm not covering here.

2) Because you're using the full 0-255 RGB color you'll have to make some setting adjustments so video looks correct. Under the "Video - Adjust Video Color Setting" you'll make changes under the "Color" tab as follows. Color: Brightness 58% and Contrast 48%. Under the Advanced tab make sure the "Dynamic Range" is set to "Full 0-255". I also set the gamma for all colors to .92. Note: In the research I've done, people have the Brightness set to 57% but I've noticed that blacks are a bit more crushed but not by much. You can avoid making these video adjustments and selecting the 16-235 range under the Advanced tab. If you do so you'll need to reduce the brightness (HDTV settings) to 51. The picture quality looks similar but I find that the skin tones look a tad bit more neutral and there's a bit less black crush when using the 0-255 setting with the manual corrections.

3) Under the "Display" settings set make sure Nvidia is set and use the defaults. Also, Make sure "RGB" is used with "Desktop Programs". The reason for this is nearly all programs on the PC will output 0-255. Plus with the settings in step 2, you're adjusting for the color space difference.

Brilliant
Brightness: 56
Contrast: 100
Color: 32 for TV and 30 for movies
Tint: 6
Sharpness: 0
Video Noise: Off
Color Temperature: High

Bright
Not used - Colors/Whites are too blown out and darks are crushed.

Natural
Not used - Colors are not saturated enough, bright reds are too muted.

Using these settings XBMC produces VERY good picture results. But please make sure that "hardware acceleration" is checked. If not, you'll see serious black crush. That's in part because you won't be using the settings you made in step 2.

With Windows 7 Ultimate Media Center use the registry setting which will force Windows 7 Ultimate Media Center to output 0-255. With Sports, bright yellows can be a bit off - more to the green than yellow. But if you try to correct for this (tint) then you'll get more brown colors on a football field than green. This is because of the limited tint adjustment on the C10/638 HDTVs (single tint adjustment from green to red).

Boxee is a problem since I have to disable the "hardware acceleration" for the TWiT.TV plugin to display video shows, otherwise it only outputs audio. I only use Boxee for TWiT.TV and Revision3 programs so it's not that big of a deal for me. I would use XBMC for these plugins but the shows appear to be low-def in XBMC vs. higher resolution in Boxee. Again, there might be a setting change to resolve this issue with XBMC, eliminating the need to use Boxee at all.

Here's the Windows Media Center registry setting which will allow you to switch from 16-235 to 0-255. In the settings I gave above you should use the 0-255 settings.

Windows Media Center registry settings (16-235 and 0-255)
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post #1169 of 1377 Old 11-14-2011, 04:30 PM
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post #1170 of 1377 Old 11-14-2011, 04:36 PM
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It figures after I've re-calibrated my HDTV because of some Nvidia driver changes that I now have another problem. I now have a clear spot on the inside of the screen. I don't know if it's a defect in the screen which just happened or if a bug got in there and did some magic on my screen. I would think it would be the latter than the former. Sadly, I don't think this will be covered by the warranty. Not to mention, I think the screen has a shorter warranty than rest of the HDTV parts. So this means I'm going to have to dive into my HDTV and using the proper cleaning techniques so not to harm the screen. If there's anyone that's had to do this then it would be great if you could provide input on the best way to open the HDTV to do this. I'll be contacting Mitsubishi later this week to see if they can provide free repair of this but I doubt it. I'll post a few photos of this issue later since I'm sure others will have the same issue. More so if it's the result of a bug doing it's magic on the screen.
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