2010 Mitsubishi 3D DLP Owners Thread (638 series) - Page 46 - AVS Forum
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post #1351 of 1377 Old 05-15-2013, 05:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xelnok View Post

I have the 60c10 with the exact same flickering problem, primarily in the top right of the screen. Im not sure if it is possible to change the lamp brightness settings with this model, i did buy a somewhat cheap lamp on amazon that lessened the flickering a little but it is still there.

If anyone knows if there is a way to change the lamp settings with this model, or of an official bulb will fix the problems let me know, (not wanting to spend the money on an official bulb without knowing if the problem will go away or not)

Thanks.

I've been recommending buying Osram or Phillips lamps from ShopJimmy or ReplacementLightBulbs.com. Both of the Osram lamps I bought lasted about 4800 hours before the flickering showed up. Both sell them for about $70 shipped or around $110 for the complete housing. I've heard the Philips last even longer but my OEM lamp was the Osram 150-180w, so I'm sticking with that.

HD-DVD = 94
Blu-Ray = 120 ( 24 Warner red2blu )
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post #1352 of 1377 Old 05-15-2013, 06:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jevans64 View Post

I've been recommending buying Osram or Phillips lamps from ShopJimmy or ReplacementLightBulbs.com. Both of the Osram lamps I bought lasted about 4800 hours before the flickering showed up. Both sell them for about $70 shipped or around $110 for the complete housing. I've heard the Philips last even longer but my OEM lamp was the Osram 150-180w, so I'm sticking with that.

Just wanting to verify that buying a better lamp would fix this flickering problem that i am having, i am still in the return window for the bulb i bought on amazon, so would returning it and getting one of the more expensive official ones fix the problem? (Not wanting to spend $100~ just to have the flickering start up right after installation).

Thanks alot.
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post #1353 of 1377 Old 05-15-2013, 06:34 PM
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I wonder if the bargain basement lamps are jacking up the ballasts.

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post #1354 of 1377 Old 05-19-2013, 03:06 AM
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ive had my 60638 for over 2.5 years now and have noticed some flickering also...so i think my bulb is on its last legs. when it does finally go i am going with the official bulb. I have my tv on for like 24hours a day some days...i notice the flickering in the early viewing hours and it usually goes away once the tv is on longer.

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post #1355 of 1377 Old 05-19-2013, 06:02 PM
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I just replaced the bulb in my 65738 with a Phillips from shopjimmy.com. The original was an Osram that lasted 12500 hours. I noticed the bulb going bad when the TV went very dim for about 3 days, then it stopped working. I installed the new bulb and it was like having a new TV again. I never realized how the picture dimmed gradually over time. That was yesterday. This morning the kids were watching TV and after 20 minutes or so the flickering problem started. We would turn off the TV off and on and it would stop for a few minutes, only to come back. We had the set off for a few hours then turned it back on, it lasted maybe 20-30 minutes this time, then came back.

I'm starting to think that this is somehow heat related. The new bulb is working properly but some other component in the back is aging and can't handle the heat generated by the new bulb. I lowered the energy setting to standard instead of bright, then set the brightness all the way down. The TV has been working for about 45 minutes now (dim, but watchable.)

Luckily I'm under ABC Warehouse warranty, so it's a wait and see as to what they will do to fix the problem.

I just thought I'd post my experience, for what it's worth. I love this TV! It looks so much better than any LCD's I've seen.
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post #1356 of 1377 Old 06-05-2013, 05:07 PM
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Got my bulb today direct from Mitsubishi and looks great. Much brighter and no dark corners. Worth getting from them: Here's the part number I got. 915B441001 LAMP (180W) (V43/V43C/V43+/V43++) 'G'
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post #1357 of 1377 Old 08-28-2013, 04:37 AM
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Got some questions which picture mode on the WD60638 is the best brilliant , bright , or natural? Also my lamp life is about to go would now be the time to get a replacement lamp or wait a month? Thanks.
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post #1358 of 1377 Old 08-28-2013, 05:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kenkraly2004 View Post

Got some questions which picture mode on the WD60638 is the best brilliant , bright , or natural? Also my lamp life is about to go would now be the time to get a replacement lamp or wait a month? Thanks.

Buy the new bulb.. put it in right away when it is still under warranty. Keep the old bulb as the backup.


That way if the new bulb breaks, then you can send it back and the old bulb keeps your tv alive.
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post #1359 of 1377 Old 08-28-2013, 09:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acaoacao View Post

Buy the new bulb.. put it in right away when it is still under warranty. Keep the old bulb as the backup.


That way if the new bulb breaks, then you can send it back and the old bulb keeps your tv alive.
Thanks acaoacao I plan on getting a new bulb for my WD60638 next month. What do I do though if the TV is out of warranty could I still order a new bulb from mitsuparts.3diamonds.com ? The reason I ask is because I rented and got the TV from Aarons rental place and it's all paid off.
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post #1360 of 1377 Old 08-28-2013, 02:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kenkraly2004 View Post

Got some questions which picture mode on the WD60638 is the best brilliant , bright , or natural? Also my lamp life is about to go would now be the time to get a replacement lamp or wait a month? Thanks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by kenkraly2004 View Post

Thanks acaoacao I plan on getting a new bulb for my WD60638 next month. What do I do though if the TV is out of warranty could I still order a new bulb from mitsuparts.3diamonds.com ? The reason I ask is because I rented and got the TV from Aarons rental place and it's all paid off.

None of the preset modes are optimal. How do you know the lamp is ready to go? Why wait a month? What acaocao meant was the new lamp comes with a warranty, install it, make sure it works and keep the old lamp as a spare. Only buy an OEM lamp.
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post #1361 of 1377 Old 08-29-2013, 12:08 AM
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Originally Posted by colour View Post


None of the preset modes are optimal. How do you know the lamp is ready to go? Why wait a month? What acaocao meant was the new lamp comes with a warranty, install it, make sure it works and keep the old lamp as a spare. Only buy an OEM lamp.
Thanks for the help and info @Colour
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post #1362 of 1377 Old 09-25-2013, 06:51 AM
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Hi, I've owned my 60638 for 2 years.  Never had an issue with it.  I recently moved and switched states.  and now I've been having issues being satisfied with my colors.  

 

I play Xbox 360.  I used to use Brilliant for playing games, and Bright for watching movies, after much fiddling with settings found what I felt was the best picture for each respectively, and everything looked great.  

 

I replaced the bulb about 3 months ago due to the original started to flicker faintly.  No problems following the replacement.  I think it is an OEM bulb as it looks identical to the one that was in there.  Same markings and all.

 

I've moved now, and since the move, Brilliant looks like it has a lot of brown.  When I go back and forth from Bright to Brilliant, I can see where Bright will show shades of green on some foliage, and Brilliant turns those shades of green into an autumn brown color. Brilliant also seems to add a faint haze to the screen, like too much brightness, even though the brightness setting seems to be correct to the THX calibration.

 

I don't know if it's because my old house had blue walls, and my new house has yellowish, peach colored walls...that might be the culprit, creating an optical illusion, but I'm not sure.  I just don't remember Brilliant looking so brown...I remember it popping really well.

 

For now, I seem to be happiest with leaving the TV in bright mode, with the brightness several clicks below what THX calls a calibrated black level.  If I leave the settings at the calibrated black level, then the picture looks washed out, and that's on both Bright and Brilliant. 

 

I pulled out my laptop and pulled up some HD footage of Halo 4 on youtube, then paused on several colorful scenes, and then did a side by side with my character on my TV viewing the exact same scenes to match up the colors (since the videos were from IGN, I assume they were using high quality calibrated displays).   The settings which i found matched best were:

 

Bright

Brightness 45

Contrast 61

Color 50

Tint 0

Sharpness 30

Color Temp: High

Video Noise Off

 

That is from memory, the actual numbers might be a bit different, but that should be close.  Anyway, I think it looks pretty good for what it is...but from looking on this forum, I haven't seen anyone with recommended settings even close to these.  So I'm wondering why my TV changed so suddenly.  I don't think it could be damage from the move or else I would imagine the problems would be much more severe.  Perhaps a shoddy bulb?  Color wheel?  Maybe it's nothing and there are people that use these settings too?  I don't know.

 

I am sorry for the long post, just trying to be thorough and hoping someone with more experience than myself can shine some light on this situation.

 

Thank for reading!

 

 Max  

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post #1363 of 1377 Old 09-25-2013, 02:01 PM
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Try turning your contrast down to around the 45 range, amd work from there.

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post #1364 of 1377 Old 09-25-2013, 09:41 PM
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Your color is set at twice what mine is set at, seems way too high. Different model but still seems too high.
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post #1365 of 1377 Old 02-11-2014, 05:58 PM
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yes has any one upgraded the firmware on wd65-c10 if yes what are the improvements thanks
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post #1366 of 1377 Old 03-18-2014, 11:05 AM
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I finally got around to "calibrating" my WD-73638, so I thought I'd pass along my findings. I used the THX Optimizer on both Bluray and DVD to calibrate the brightness and contrast levels. This is running through a receiver via HDMI into the TV. The TV input HDMI is labelled "PC" to allow PC resolutions (an HTPC is also connected through the same receiver) and to force full 0-255 input levels. On the bluray player, I also selected full 0-255 output range (as well as on the HTPC). What I found is that that at a contrast level of 100, I did not see any white clipping on either the Bluray or DVD THX test patterns. Not only that, in all four TV mode settings (game, natural, bright, and brilliant), there was no white clipping at contrast = 100. So that's easy, just set contrast to 100 in all modes. Also, using both Blueray and DVD THX test patterns, I found the lowest black level to just disappear at Brightness = 66 (and clearly visible at Brightness = 67). Again, this was the same in all 4 TV modes. Thus, I am fairly certain that using the full 0-255 input range, the ideal "neutral" settings for B&C on the TV in all modes is:

Brightness = 66
Contrast = 100

Normally, cranking up the contrast this high causes severe white clipping, but the controller board on the 638 series seems weird this way. Also, you typically find the correct brightness setting near 50, so this was also strange. So with full-range inputs (RGB or YCrCb), the controls will let you reduce peak white level, but not clip white. The controls allow you to clip black (<66) or wash out black (>66) like a brightness control usually does. With the B&C settings set as above, I then worked on getting something usuable out of the four modes (with Natural being the most neutral mapping I could achieve). In all cases I kept Sharpness at 0, although it appears the Sharpness adjust doesn't even work on the PC-labeled HDMI input.

Natural (and Game)
Color 50
Tint +2
Temp Low

Bright
Color 40
Tint -4
Temp Low

Brilliant
Color 50
Tint 0
Temp High

This makes Natural the default setup, with Bright good for sports and Brilliant only good for cartoons (it is way too saturated for real images). Game is the same setup as Natural, but reduces image latency for gaming (it probably disables temporal noise reduction).

You can't really do a proper calibration with the limited controls on the 638 series, but in Natural mode with the settings above you are very close to a neutral alignment. Bright mode appears to modify the gamma to increase apparent image contrast with a small boost in saturation. Brilliant mode does some very aggressive nonlinear processing, so I can only recommend it for cartoons, where it looks great.

EDIT: I created a couple of split screen test patterns on the HTPC, a black level with the left half at 0 and the right half at 1. I also created a white level pattern with the left half at 254 and the right half at 255. For the white level pattern, I was able to discern the vertical split for all contrast levels from 50 to 100, which confirms that no white clipping occurs at contrast = 100. For the black pattern, however, the visible split disappeared for brightness levels below 70, indicating black clipping for brightness <70. So I've updated my settings and now use brightness = 70. The only reason I can provide for the Blu-ray player not clipping down to brightness 66 is that I've set the Blu-ray player to use Deep Color, and the extra luminance bits are allowing the black level to resolve levels below brightness = 70. I really wish the PC could output more than 8 bits, it would help remove all traces of color banding, especially in 3D games.
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post #1367 of 1377 Old 03-21-2014, 03:58 PM
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Anyone Have Picture Problems after Mitsubishi DMD Chip Replacement? 

 

See this thread. http://www.avsforum.com/t/1523680/anyone-have-picture-problems-after-mitsubishi-dmd-chip-replacement

 

I apologize for cross-posting, but I need feedback from others with new chips.


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post #1368 of 1377 Old 03-25-2014, 02:31 PM
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I just picked up a used WD-60638 that was not working and was told that the lamp was out (red led was on).  Before I bought it I pulled the lamp out to see if it was blown and it wasn't.  I then plugged the lamp back in and the TV fired up.  It seemed like it took a while (maybe a minute or so).  After I got it home I had to pull the lamp back out to get it to work.  That lasted about a week and now it won't turn on.  I do have sound.  The bulb looks OK not discolored or blown looking.  Should I replace the bulb or is there somewhere else I should look first?  Thanks.

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post #1369 of 1377 Old 03-26-2014, 07:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Elkyman87 View Post

I just picked up a used WD-60638 that was not working and was told that the lamp was out (red led was on).  Before I bought it I pulled the lamp out to see if it was blown and it wasn't.  I then plugged the lamp back in and the TV fired up.  It seemed like it took a while (maybe a minute or so).  After I got it home I had to pull the lamp back out to get it to work.  That lasted about a week and now it won't turn on.  I do have sound.  The bulb looks OK not discolored or blown looking.  Should I replace the bulb or is there somewhere else I should look first?  Thanks.

You can't tell by appearance if the lamp is bad. It's not recommended to get an aftermarket lamp, too many issues with them, it's a crapshoot. Although you could try an aftermarket lamp just to see if it is a bad lamp then get OEM and keep the aftermarket as a spare. On the other hand an aftermarket lamp could be bad from the start.
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post #1370 of 1377 Old 03-26-2014, 09:42 AM
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Thanks for the reply Colour. I pulled the bulb out again and took it out of it's housing. From what I've been reading it should have an Osram marking on it. This bulb doesn't, so I'm assuming it's aftermarket. I put everything back together and the TV fired up and I watched it all night with no problems. I've been reading about the problems with the aftermarket bulbs but I was understanding that they weren't lasting very long (blowing out). Has anybody experienced something similar to what I have?
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post #1371 of 1377 Old 03-26-2014, 04:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Elkyman87 View Post

Thanks for the reply Colour. I pulled the bulb out again and took it out of it's housing. From what I've been reading it should have an Osram marking on it. This bulb doesn't, so I'm assuming it's aftermarket. I put everything back together and the TV fired up and I watched it all night with no problems. I've been reading about the problems with the aftermarket bulbs but I was understanding that they weren't lasting very long (blowing out). Has anybody experienced something similar to what I have?

I believe some Osrams didn't actually say Osram on them, but instead 'P-VIP' which was their series.

Regardless, when you replace a lamp always go for an Osram or Philips. Remember, 'OEM-equivalent' means NOT OEM.
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post #1372 of 1377 Old 03-30-2014, 07:47 PM
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Question AVS'ers I need some help I'm running the THX Optimizer via the T2 Blu-Ray Disc which brightness number should it be set to on the wd 60638? I'm using the natural mode on the TV. Any help here on that would be great. Thanks.
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post #1373 of 1377 Old 03-31-2014, 08:45 AM
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Using the same THX optimizer, I ended up with brightness = 66. But that is also forcing the Blu-ray player to output Deep Color. Using a PC, black clipping is evident at brightness levels below 70. So somewhere between 66 and 70, depending on your blu-ray player.
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post #1374 of 1377 Old 03-31-2014, 10:20 AM
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Thank You David_OSU I set the brightness to 45 percent and that helped out a lot. I thought about 66 but 45 is a good number percentage of brightness for me.
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post #1375 of 1377 Old 04-14-2014, 09:08 AM
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I replaced the lamp with an Osram and the TV is working like it should. Thanks!
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post #1376 of 1377 Old 06-24-2014, 06:29 AM
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So hello all I am new to the forum, have had my 73638 for 4 years since it came out. I have just installed the software upgrade *facepalm for waiting so long* it instantly fixed the invalid format problems I was having as my htpc was not recognizing the edid properly. My question is does anyone know if this was supposed to fix the need for the mitsu adapter for 3d content?
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post #1377 of 1377 Old 06-24-2014, 06:32 PM
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Quote:
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...My question is does anyone know if this was supposed to fix the need for the mitsu adapter for 3d content?
Unfortunately, the 3d update was only for the 738 and 838 series
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