2010 Mitsubishi 3D DLP Owners Thread (638 series) - Page 7 - AVS Forum
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post #181 of 1377 Old 12-06-2010, 06:25 AM
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Originally Posted by sharpsuxx View Post

Is there any reason people are taking contrast down to 65-75. I ran mine through DVE and THX optimizer and at 100 it passed all white tests for contrast. I do have a little bigger offsets on the tint, hue range though but the colors look amazing, not poppy just very accurate and great gradients.

I am a long time DLPaphobe and with the deal at BBY I couldn't pass it up. After I set it up and corrected for screen position and geometry this thing has one of the best pics I have ever seen.

it passes at 100 percent contrast on mine too but i lowered cos some said they were seeing banding issues...i never saw any but i have noticed that when contrast is lowered SSE is greatly diminished...i was seeing rainbows and when someone mentioned what it was and how to reduce i gave it a go

btw can you tell us how to correct the geometry and screen position? is it the same for everyone or are no 2 sets the same

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post #182 of 1377 Old 12-06-2010, 07:21 AM
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Look for the service manual and then follow the steps. Center the screen first and then correct the geometry. I think someone posted a link to the service manual on page 1 of this thread. Print it out and read through the steps, its pretty straight forward.
I am seeing some artifacts with HD Uverse, I will have to adjust the contrast with HD broadcast on because mostly all I have watched so far is blu-ray and I have had no problems there.
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post #183 of 1377 Old 12-06-2010, 11:38 AM
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Hi all. Received my 60638 on Friday. My, the screen is HUGE compared to my 4 year-old 42" Panasonic Plasma!

Am I going blind, or could my set be slightly out of focus? I feel like text and other details aren't as sharp as I'm expecting it to be, or is this just a trade off that one has to accept with DLP RPTV?

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post #184 of 1377 Old 12-06-2010, 02:27 PM
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Originally Posted by TheMerk View Post

Hi all. Received my 60638 on Friday. My, the screen is HUGE compared to my 4 year-old 42" Panasonic Plasma!

Am I going blind, or could my set be slightly out of focus? I feel like text and other details aren't as sharp as I'm expecting it to be, or is this just a trade off that one has to accept with DLP RPTV?

im leaning towards blind. jk

focus defects are pretty rare on dlp, but not impossible.
how far away are you viewing the content?
what type of source and what type of connection?
if you are using an analog source, then ya...its not gonna look as good.
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post #185 of 1377 Old 12-06-2010, 02:28 PM
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I have this problem as well but I think it is a result of the crazy SSE I see on this set. This combined with my girlfriend seeing the rainbow effect all the time might mean shipping this thing back to Tigerdirect.
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post #186 of 1377 Old 12-06-2010, 02:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boozcruz33 View Post

I just purchased a WD-65638 and am loving it so far. I have yet to do any tuning, but I have noticed an issue during dark scenes where there is a light circle about 6 inches in diameter in the lower left-center of the screen. Is this something that can be adjusted with some tuning, is this a major problem and the TV should be returned, or is this expected with a rear projection DLP? I have attached some pictures since my description is pretty poor.

Thanks for your help,
Shane

move your TV to face another direction. did the position of the spot change?
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post #187 of 1377 Old 12-06-2010, 06:31 PM
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Has any tried 3d glasses other than those that come with the starter kit and the xpand's? If so, do they work correctly? I've read the SSG-2100AB (by Samsung) will work withe the 638, 738, and 838 series. Is this true?
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post #188 of 1377 Old 12-06-2010, 06:59 PM
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Can someone direct me to the page or thread for settings for the 73638. thanks.
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post #189 of 1377 Old 12-06-2010, 07:58 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnson636 View Post

Has any tried 3d glasses other than those that come with the starter kit and the xpand's? If so, do they work correctly? I've read the SSG-2100AB (by Samsung) will work withe the 638, 738, and 838 series. Is this true?

I have the mit starter kit and the owner manual states that the ir emitter will work with the Samsung 3d glass model ssg-2100ab.

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post #190 of 1377 Old 12-06-2010, 09:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hipnotiq View Post

move your TV to face another direction. did the position of the spot change?

I tried that and it appears the spot is in the same place. I also tried covering up all possible light that could get into the back of the TV in case there was light coming through and causing some sort of glare. Unfortunately, the spot remained in the same position no matter what I tried.

The worst part is that I purchased from Amazon for a great deal and they no longer have any in stock. They are willing to take it back as a return for no charge, but the price has now gone up significantly across the board. I guess my only option is to see if Mitsubishi can send someone to repair it without breaking something else. Not a fun project for a brand new TV...
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post #191 of 1377 Old 12-07-2010, 08:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnson636 View Post

Has any tried 3d glasses other than those that come with the starter kit and the xpand's? If so, do they work correctly? I've read the SSG-2100AB (by Samsung) will work withe the 638, 738, and 838 series. Is this true?

I have the Samsung glasses from the started kit, they work just like my mits glasses with the Mits Adapter and emitter. In fact they look just like them as well.
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post #192 of 1377 Old 12-07-2010, 07:33 PM
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I was wandering if some of the settings people were using earlier in the tread would apply for the 73638 too? Or is there a big difference with the screen sizes? Anyone have any recommended settings for the 73"?
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post #193 of 1377 Old 12-07-2010, 10:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Copman View Post

Can someone direct me to the page or thread for settings for the 73638. thanks.

i dont think there is one...just a global 6 series thread ... which is this

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post #194 of 1377 Old 12-07-2010, 10:35 PM
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Originally Posted by boxer0987 View Post

I was wandering if some of the settings people were using earlier in the tread would apply for the 73638 too? Or is there a big difference with the screen sizes? Anyone have any recommended settings for the 73"?

cant hurt to try...

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post #195 of 1377 Old 12-08-2010, 05:17 AM
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Hi everyone, I just received my 65638. I understood there would be issues when not watching HD content, but I assumed (incorrectly) that the cable HD channels would be fine. When I watch bluray the picture is awesome. When I watch my cable HD channels (Time Warner) the picture looks good unless there is a lot of action on the screen. Whenever there is fast moving scenes the picture gets a lot of pixelation before settling in. Watching a normal scene is fine, it is only when things are changing a lot. For instance, on NCIS opening sequence where they jump from scene to scene, I can't see much of it. The screen freezes and then gets all jumbled unless the scene stays the same for a while. I know I'm not describing it very well, but hopefully someone will chime in.

The settings are factory except the picture mode is natural. Color temp is low and the video noise is off. I have a motorola DCH2416. It is outputing 1080i according to the front panel.

I want this tv mainly for movies and HD sports shows. The movie part is great, but if I can't watch fast moving sport shows I'm not sure I want to keep the tv. I know it is probably due to the cable/cable box since blurays look good, but my Sony 46" XBR9 looks awesome (apples to oranges). Is there some setting I'm missing or is the issue the video processor?

Any help would be appreciated.
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post #196 of 1377 Old 12-08-2010, 05:21 AM
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Originally Posted by JoeinNH View Post

Hi everyone, I just received my 65638. I understood there would be issues when not watching HD content, but I assumed (incorrectly) that the cable HD channels would be fine. When I watch bluray the picture is awesome. When I watch my cable HD channels (Time Warner) the picture looks good unless there is a lot of action on the screen. Whenever there is fast moving scenes the picture gets a lot of pixelation before settling in. Watching a normal scene is fine, it is only when things are changing a lot. For instance, on NCIS opening sequence where they jump from scene to scene, I can't see much of it. The screen freezes and then gets all jumbled unless the scene stays the same for a while. I know I'm not describing it very well, but hopefully someone will chime in.

The settings are factory except the picture mode is natural. Color temp is low and the video noise is off. I have a motorola DCH2416. It is outputing 1080i according to the front panel.

I want this tv mainly for movies and HD sports shows. The movie part is great, but if I can't watch fast moving sport shows I'm not sure I want to keep the tv. I know it is probably due to the cable/cable box since blurays look good, but my Sony 46" XBR9 looks awesome (apples to oranges). Is there some setting I'm missing or is the issue the video processor?

Any help would be appreciated.

sometimes when there is fast action thing on tv i set my cable box to output 720p instead of 1080i...i dont if you can do tht with urs tho...it really helps with me.

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post #197 of 1377 Old 12-08-2010, 06:08 AM
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Originally Posted by shibez View Post

sometimes when there is fast action thing on tv i set my cable box to output 720p instead of 1080i...i dont if you can do tht with urs tho...it really helps with me.

I believe I can as there is a format button on the box that lets me cycle through different resolutions. How does this affect the picture? Thanks for the quick reply.

ETA: I'm not sure if this could affect the picture or not, but I am running the HDMI from the cable box into a Sony sound system (along with the blu-ray player). I then connect the sound system to the tv. Any negative affects from this?
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post #198 of 1377 Old 12-08-2010, 06:08 AM
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I know this is probably the Nth my settings post but I just hammered out the details using my reference materials. No banding, no over saturation, high black level detail with still a dark balck level, passes all DVE tests for color (except overscan, with the service menu the best I could do is still 2% overscan, but its centered.) I'll post screen shots tonight but here are the settings.

Natural Mode
Contrast 82
Brightness 57
Color 45
Tint +3
video Noise Reduction off
film mode off (couldn't see any difference between off and on w/ blu ray)
Color Temp Low

I'm sure everyones sets tint and color will be different but for my set this looks near perfect
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post #199 of 1377 Old 12-08-2010, 08:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnson636 View Post

Has any tried 3d glasses other than those that come with the starter kit and the xpand's? If so, do they work correctly? I've read the SSG-2100AB (by Samsung) will work withe the 638, 738, and 838 series. Is this true?

I've seen some good reviews on the 3D Heaven Ultra-Clears. I'm still waiting for my free 3D kit and then I'll probably add a few of these for viewer expansion: www dot ultimate3dheaven dot com/dlp3dwiglfis dot html
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post #200 of 1377 Old 12-08-2010, 10:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shibez View Post

the contrast ratio on dlp's are sadly not that great to begin with ...i read at best they get 12000:1 (i only read this after i bought it but still at the price i got it for i cant complain)... my entry level plasma got 30000:1 easily

Don't believe the contrast ratios you see on HDTVs specs. - most of them are "dynamic" and not native numbers. Then there's the real world measurement which would be to display half the screen with full white and the other half full black and then take meter readings. Btw, even small amounts of ambient light (one LUX - a candle flame) significantly reduces the ability of display devices to render higher contrast ratios. Also, the human eye typically only sees contrast ratios within 400:1 to 10,000:1. But the eye can adapt after watching material for a period of time to increase it's ability to detect higher contrast ratios. Another interesting fact for most to know that are concerted about contrast ratio - when you go to the theater a "good clean print" movie only has a contrast ratio of about 500:1.

Confused, exactly - and that's what HDTV manufactures prey on...providing you specs. to get you to buy a set when your human eyes are the best "specs" you can use.
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post #201 of 1377 Old 12-08-2010, 11:01 AM
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Originally Posted by shibez View Post

Lucid are you SURE these tvs upconvert EVERYTHING to 1080p?

The whole line of the Mitsubishi DLP series upconverts all non-1080p signals to 1080p. The reason for this is that it displays a 1080p image at 60hz. The wobulation it does to produce a full image happens at 120hz which is "sort of" like an interlaced TV but a lot different than analog TVs. This is why all non-1080p signals have to be up converted to it's native display/output. Proof of this is that you can't disable the Plush1080p video processing, it's on by default in the set and can't be turned off. The only way to "disable" it so to speak is to feed the HDTV a 1080p signal.

Here's what the 838 owner manual states:
All images are displayed at 1080p. The TV uses Plush 1080p® 5G to convert lower-resolution signals to 1080p for display. The TV can also accept 1080p original signals and maintain them at 1080p through all processing until displayed.
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post #202 of 1377 Old 12-08-2010, 11:14 AM
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Hello everyone i ordered my WD-60C10 from dell on cyber monday picked it over the 638 series that they were offering in bestbuy that day because of free shipping.... i think that free shipping had a fine print of free headaches aswell though. since ive ordered my tv ive called dell 3 times because website said delivery by the 3rd of december then i called and they said expect a call on monday the 6th no call so i call they say the 7th they will call me again no call so i called today and they said it was on backorder and that delivery date on my tv says now the 14th... WTF indeed i complained so much they giving me expedited delivery when they do deliver and said they will call within 24hrs for full carrier detail and date. not holding my breathe but i hope i get it before Xmas . so hows everyone impression on the tv so far because im looking forward to a big improvement from my 37" Vizio lcd tv also @60" its going to be the largest tv ever in my house lol so heres to HD on a big screen.
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post #203 of 1377 Old 12-08-2010, 11:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sharpsuxx View Post

film mode off (couldn't see any difference between off and on w/ blu ray)

This mode only works for certain signals. This is probably doing a 3:2 mode pulldown in those cases to reduce judder. The Auto setting seems like the ideal mode to use unless all content going into the set is 1080p then I would disable it.

From the 838 manual...
Film Mode: 480i and 1080i signals only. In Auto, the TV automatically detects and applies film-decoding correction to movies filmed at 24 frames per second.
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post #204 of 1377 Old 12-08-2010, 11:47 AM
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Originally Posted by ColonelAce View Post

Hello everyone i ordered my WD-60C10 from dell on cyber monday picked it over the 638 series that they were offering in bestbuy that day because of free shipping.... since ive ordered my tv ive called dell 3 times because website said delivery by the 3rd of december then i called and they said expect a call on monday the 6th no call so i call they say the 7th they will call me again no call so i called today and they said it was on backorder and that delivery date on my tv says now the 14th... WTF

I ordered the 65C10 on Cyber Monday as well. My original delivery date was 12/3, which then was updated to 12/21. But my set shipped yesterday (12/7) using Pilot Freight and is scheduled to arrive on 12/21 (what Dell states). But if I go to Pilot Freight it shows it as arriving on 12/14. It's coming from Ontario, CA to Philadelphia, PA (I'm located in Delaware) so it looks like it's being shipped ground.

I avoid calling companies about issues since half the time you don't even get someone that can speak English. And when you do, they rarely can help you with your problem - have to go up the food chain to get results.

I just hope there are no issues with my set since shipping it back to Dell isn't an option giving shipping costs on a large item. But I am looking forward to the upgrade from my older 50" Sony Wega (50we610) which isn't 1080p, has worse contrast ratio (it's rear projection LCD), and doesn't have 3D. Heck, my set doesn't even have a HDMI port - just one DVI port which I use a HDMI to DVI adapter to feed it HDMI. I wanted to go 73" but decided that it would be best to have a dual setup - 65" HDTV for TV and daytime movie watching and a front projector for night time viewing of movies and sports on a 90-100" screen. The price difference was about 400 with the Dell sale between the two which is about 1/2 the price of a HD front projector. I was also concerned with the 73" size on HDTV since not all shows are 1080p and the quality of the video isn't always that great, which will all be much worse on a larger screen.
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post #205 of 1377 Old 12-08-2010, 12:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lucid69 View Post

The whole line of the Mitsubishi DLP series upconverts all non-1080p signals to 1080p. The reason for this is that it displays a 1080p image at 60hz. The wobulation it does to produce a full image happens at 120hz which is "sort of" like an interlaced TV but a lot different than analog TVs. This is why all non-1080p signals have to be up converted to it's native display/output. Proof of this is that you can't disable the Plush1080p video processing, it's on by default in the set and can't be turned off. The only way to "disable" it so to speak is to feed the HDTV a 1080p signal.

Here's what the 838 owner manual states:
All images are displayed at 1080p. The TV uses Plush 1080p® 5G to convert lower-resolution signals to 1080p for display. The TV can also accept 1080p original signals and maintain them at 1080p through all processing until displayed.

i just cant believe that...especially when the tv tells me its in a 720p signal or a 1080i signal... and that it has a function on it "film mode" to show things at 24 frames when you receive things from 1080i/720p sources..it would then HAVE to recognize those sources which then tells me it not automatically up converting those signals to 1080p...what constitutes as a low resolution signal? to me thats standard def...

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post #206 of 1377 Old 12-08-2010, 12:43 PM
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I used these settings and the picture looks fabulous on my 65C10. Thanks!

Quote:
Originally Posted by sharpsuxx View Post

I know this is probably the Nth my settings post but I just hammered out the details using my reference materials. No banding, no over saturation, high black level detail with still a dark balck level, passes all DVE tests for color (except overscan, with the service menu the best I could do is still 2% overscan, but its centered.) I'll post screen shots tonight but here are the settings.

Natural Mode
Contrast 82
Brightness 60
Color 45
Tint +3
video Noise Reduction off
film mode off (couldn't see any difference between off and on w/ blu ray)
Color Temp Low

I'm sure everyones sets tint and color will be different but for my set this looks near perfect

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post #207 of 1377 Old 12-08-2010, 01:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Lucid69 View Post

I avoid calling companies about issues since half the time you don't even get someone that can speak English. And when you do, they rarely can help you with your problem - have to go up the food chain to get results.

I just hope there are no issues with my set since shipping it back to Dell isn't an option giving shipping costs on a large item.

yea i normally dont like to give people over the phone problems but in this case i had the option between best buy and dell and i chose dell for some odd reason. when i spoke on the phone first two time they were no help and all 3 times have been people with thick english accents so i know what u mean but this time when i called they upgraded my free shipping to free expedited overnight so thats good. i had to give them a whole story how i chose them over another site because i know people who have bought pc's from them and they were more reliable then... also said i have no tv in my house and that they will ruin my xmas if i dont get it soon lol that seemed to make them feel bad so got the free upgrade in shipping. now if only they would ship already i live in NYC and yea its a major upgrade from my tv too which i sold to my cousin for 300 so really i got this new dlp for 300 talk about best price/inch huh
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post #208 of 1377 Old 12-08-2010, 01:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sharpsuxx View Post

I know this is probably the Nth my settings post but I just hammered out the details using my reference materials. No banding, no over saturation, high black level detail with still a dark balck level, passes all DVE tests for color (except overscan, with the service menu the best I could do is still 2% overscan, but its centered.) I'll post screen shots tonight but here are the settings.

Natural Mode
Contrast 82
Brightness 60
Color 45
Tint +3
video Noise Reduction off
film mode off (couldn't see any difference between off and on w/ blu ray)
Color Temp Low

I'm sure everyones sets tint and color will be different but for my set this looks near perfect

These setting are actually really close to the ones I had come up with on my 60638 last night. I couldn't understand how the other posters in this thread were watching with Brightness @ 50 and Contrast @ 100. That's so bright I have to wear shades!!

-TheMerk
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post #209 of 1377 Old 12-08-2010, 02:08 PM
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Originally Posted by shibez View Post

i just cant believe that...especially when the tv tells me its in a 720p signal or a 1080i signal... and that it has a function on it "film mode" to show things at 24 frames when you receive things from 1080i/720p sources..it would then HAVE to recognize those sources which then tells me it not automatically up converting those signals to 1080p...what constitutes as a low resolution signal? to me thats standard def...

This HDTV doesn't output 24 frames per second. 24 frames per second sources are prone to judder on 60hz devices. The reason why it has a film mode is so that it can do a 3:2 pulldown on the 24 frames per second sources to reduce judder.

Bottom line if it's not a 1920x1080 progressive source then it's scaled to match the display output which will cause a video quality hit because the video processor on the C10/638 aren't as good as the higher series or an external video processor.

These sets can have non-1080p sources input to it but think of it this way...

non-1080p source/input = video scaling done by the TV = not so good video quality
1080p source/input = video scaling not done by the TV = good/great video quality
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post #210 of 1377 Old 12-08-2010, 02:08 PM
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Yeah especially with color temp on high? High to me always equals wrong, what ever happened to the warm setting low is such a negative way to describe it ; ). I need to look at my set but I'm pretty sure my brightness is at 60, I may be off a bit but lower than whatever the setting I had was, it crushed black too much.
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