The Defective Mitsubishi DLP TV Owners Thread - Page 12 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #331 of 356 Old 02-05-2016, 02:25 PM
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Originally Posted by outofrng623 View Post
Can anyone confirm or deny the link above? If I can save $40 I will put it towards shipping it faster lol At this point, its more the curiosity than it is not having that TV for a few more days.
January 2007 I purchased WD73732. Three light engine failures later I purchased a WD73638 in March 2011. I've purchased many lamps over the years from Mitsubishi. They were all Osram. My last purchase was a Phillips from Amazon. Phillips is superior to the osram. Brighter and longer life. Neolux is junk; Osram is ok; Phillips is the best hands down.
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post #332 of 356 Old 02-05-2016, 06:59 PM
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Originally Posted by outofrng623 View Post
Can anyone confirm or deny the link above? If I can save $40 I will put it towards shipping it faster lol At this point, its more the curiosity than it is not having that TV for a few more days.

Again, how much do you save if it wrecks your TV? $40 over 4 years is $10 per year, less than $1 a month.


There are several vendors using that same amazon page. Who knows which vendor got the good reviews and which one is crap? It's a gamble at best. I don't know of any person who got a bad lamp from Mits.


What do they say about deals? "If it looks too good to be true, it probably isn't true".

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post #333 of 356 Old 02-05-2016, 07:06 PM
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Originally Posted by outofrng623 View Post
Can anyone confirm or deny the link above? If I can save $40 I will put it towards shipping it faster lol At this point, its more the curiosity than it is not having that TV for a few more days.

From another thread:


This guy bought his lamp from that same amazon page. It physically broke his TV.



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post #334 of 356 Old 02-06-2016, 08:13 AM
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Well, how about that. The day before Super Bowl, and my lamp just went out. Good thing I kept an old lamp as a spare!


I just ordered a new one from Mitsubishi.

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post #335 of 356 Old 02-06-2016, 08:22 AM
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I asked because someone on here suggested it and it was not about saving the money because ultimately it would've ended up being the same price after the shipping. As I mentioned before, my bulb was an osram, that's what I bought...and then it didn't work and then someone here put up a link and said that was the one...so, not knowing if that is the ACTUAL one or someone suggesting one that had worked for them, I asked. No harm, no foul...
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post #336 of 356 Old 02-06-2016, 08:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Augerhandle View Post
From another thread:


This guy bought his lamp from that same amazon page. It physically broke his TV.


https://youtu.be/1BawZxsPkyA
All that video showed was a difference in the connectors. Not quite sure what you were trying to show there...Perhaps the wrong link or is there more to his story?
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post #337 of 356 Old 02-06-2016, 07:02 PM
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He bought his 'OEM' lamp from the same amazon link posted. How can it be OEM if it doesn't even fit his TV? Some people got lucky buying lamps from vendors other than Mitsubishi. Most didn't, including you. Do you really want to put your money down and spin the wheel again?

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post #338 of 356 Old 02-07-2016, 06:26 AM
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Well, how about that. The day before Super Bowl, and my lamp just went out. Good thing I kept an old lamp as a spare!


I just ordered a new one from Mitsubishi.
If you had a Phillips lamp you would be able to watch the Super Bowl.
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post #339 of 356 Old 02-07-2016, 06:42 AM
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He bought his 'OEM' lamp from the same amazon link posted. How can it be OEM if it doesn't even fit his TV? Some people got lucky buying lamps from vendors other than Mitsubishi. Most didn't, including you. Do you really want to put your money down and spin the wheel again?
I provided that link as a courtesy. Of course that was not the correct size for my tv. But is was the same vendor. If you want to spend more on an inferior product that's your prerogative. The Mits lamps had to be replaced every 1500-2000 hours. Not because they failed; but because they became dim. The Phillips lamp is still at peak brightness after 3000 hours. But hey; its your money.
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post #340 of 356 Old 02-07-2016, 10:31 AM
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If you had a Phillips lamp you would be able to watch the Super Bowl.

As stated, I had a spare lamp. I'm not gonna miss the Super Bowl. You have only 33 posts, and you use one to try to provoke someone over their apparent misfortune? Classy.

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post #341 of 356 Old 02-07-2016, 10:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Horace Clark View Post
I provided that link as a courtesy. Of course that was not the correct size for my tv. But is was the same vendor. If you want to spend more on an inferior product that's your prerogative. The Mits lamps had to be replaced every 1500-2000 hours. Not because they failed; but because they became dim. The Phillips lamp is still at peak brightness after 3000 hours. But hey; its your money.

I checked my calibration records. I bought the lamp in 2010. It had 9,887 hours on it. It only became dim in the last week. I think I got my money's worth.


Be sure to let us know when your ballast goes.

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post #342 of 356 Old 02-09-2016, 04:12 PM
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They paid for everything, including installation. They first tried to charge $200 for the install, and I POLITELY insisted that it was a known defect, and that TI was supplying the chip to them for free, so they should replace it for free. The CSR responded with an offer to throw in a free lamp, which I refused, saying I just bought a lamp. After some more POLITE haggling, they agreed to replace it free of charge if I signed a Confidential Settlement and Release....

If they install it, they are responsible for any issues that may or may not arise, so I would definitely recommend letting them install it, no matter what you negotiate.
What model tv was this for that you received free installation? The last Mitsubishi rep I spoke with was very "holier than thou" and frustrated that I wanted to have the chip shipped to myself instead of a repair center. The offer to replace the part and have me pay only the labor came across with much sarcasm in a similar sense to "well, you didn't like your sandwich we made for you even though we put stale meat and cheese on it, but just for you to help you out, we'll make a new one for you at a discounted price." Of all the overseas customer service centers, Mitsubishi ranks among the worst attitudes, and I went in playing dumb and just wanting to find a way to save money. It's unusual to call customer service with a neutral/playing-dumb approach only to have them be the combative ones.

I asked some questions about there being a free replacement from TI and received very defensive answers from the service representative I spoke with stating that Mitsubishi is not calling this a defect and they're only helping out with the cost, etc, etc. I also asked for clarification on on whether or not they received any kickback or had an agreement with the service repair companies and she, again, got very defensive and said no. It was strange to ask questions and receive frustration. At one point when I was asking another question, I could tell that she muted me and was speaking to someone else, because there was silence and I had to ask if she was still on the phone a few times and eventually heard "yes, sir, I'm still here" and she laid out more seemingly scripted responses. I have recordings of my discussions, should anyone in the future take this a step into the class-action realm, although it may be a bit late.

EDIT: clarification on her saying "no": she was very good at being evasive and didn't actually say "no" to my questions about kickback or TI having free replacements handy or anything, and instead answered questions which I didn't ask, haha. Curious.

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post #343 of 356 Old 02-09-2016, 05:59 PM
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What model tv was this for that you received free installation? The last Mitsubishi rep I spoke with was very "holier than thou" and frustrated that I wanted to have the chip shipped to myself instead of a repair center. The offer to replace the part and have me pay only the labor came across with much sarcasm in a similar sense to "well, you didn't like your sandwich we made for you even though we put stale meat and cheese on it, but just for you to help you out, we'll make a new one for you at a discounted price." Of all the overseas customer service centers, Mitsubishi ranks among the worst attitudes, and I went in playing dumb and just wanting to find a way to save money. It's unusual to call customer service with a neutral/playing-dumb approach only to have them be the combative ones.

I asked some questions about there being a free replacement from TI and received very defensive answers from the service representative I spoke with stating that Mitsubishi is not calling this a defect and they're only helping out with the cost, etc, etc. I also asked for clarification on on whether or not they received any kickback or had an agreement with the service repair companies and she, again, got very defensive and said no. It was strange to ask questions and receive frustration. At one point when I was asking another question, I could tell that she muted me and was speaking to someone else, because there was silence and I had to ask if she was still on the phone a few times and eventually heard "yes, sir, I'm still here" and she laid out more seemingly scripted responses. I have recordings of my discussions, should anyone in the future take this a step into the class-action realm, although it may be a bit late.

EDIT: clarification on her saying "no": she was very good at being evasive and didn't actually say "no" to my questions about kickback or TI having free replacements handy or anything, and instead answered questions which I didn't ask, haha. Curious.

There are right ways and wrong ways to negotiate. Examples are highlighted above. [What you did wrong is in bold] [What you should have accepted is in red]. It is obvious from your post that you did not HAGGLE POLITELY with the facts that I provided, but instead asked provocative questions which naturally elicited the responses that you received.

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post #344 of 356 Old 03-07-2016, 06:29 PM
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Brightness is flickering

73-838. When new it was so bright it hurt my eyes even on the low lamp setting. Eventually it developed a flicker - it would jump between two brightness levels randomly. Setting it to bright mode stopped it for a little while but eventually it came back.
An authorized Mitsubishi service center had it for two months and returned it having fixed nothing (I had several issues) blaming Mitsubishi for not giving them parts.
Anyway, hectic life forced me to live with the flicker. The lamp started to get dim so I replaced it with a lamp ordered directly for Mitsubishi about 6 months ago. Although brighter, it wasn't nearly as bright as I remembered it when new. The flicker is still present with the new lamp.
In the past week the picture has gotten dim very quickly and then yesterday it is so dim as to be unwatchable during the day...and the flicker is now gone! The lamp brightness setting does not change the brightness.
The picture itself has always been stable - no jumping or tearing. Always sharp. No color issues at all. No odd noises from the set. The flicker affects the whole screen at once.
It almost seems like a bad connection or solder joint. I did reseat the lamp wire connections when I changed the bulb.
Can anyone suggest some tests I could perform to determine the cause? Power supply? Ballast? Something else? Anyone have one of these models for sale for parts or cheap? I would like to fix it but, due to it's age, don't want to put too much money into it.
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post #345 of 356 Old 03-07-2016, 08:10 PM
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73-838. When new it was so bright it hurt my eyes even on the low lamp setting. Eventually it developed a flicker - it would jump between two brightness levels randomly. Setting it to bright mode stopped it for a little while but eventually it came back.
An authorized Mitsubishi service center had it for two months and returned it having fixed nothing (I had several issues) blaming Mitsubishi for not giving them parts.
Anyway, hectic life forced me to live with the flicker. The lamp started to get dim so I replaced it with a lamp ordered directly for Mitsubishi about 6 months ago. Although brighter, it wasn't nearly as bright as I remembered it when new. The flicker is still present with the new lamp.
In the past week the picture has gotten dim very quickly and then yesterday it is so dim as to be unwatchable during the day...and the flicker is now gone! The lamp brightness setting does not change the brightness.
The picture itself has always been stable - no jumping or tearing. Always sharp. No color issues at all. No odd noises from the set. The flicker affects the whole screen at once.
It almost seems like a bad connection or solder joint. I did reseat the lamp wire connections when I changed the bulb.
Can anyone suggest some tests I could perform to determine the cause? Power supply? Ballast? Something else? Anyone have one of these models for sale for parts or cheap? I would like to fix it but, due to it's age, don't want to put too much money into it.

You reseated the lamp wire connections? Did you replace just the lamp, or the whole cartridge? (flickering and dimming in only six months means the lamp is suspect)


Your lamp is dim because it's about to fail. Buy another one right away, and buy it here: https://mitsuparts.3diamonds.com/Pro...Model/WD-73838

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Last edited by Augerhandle; 03-07-2016 at 08:16 PM.
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post #346 of 356 Old 03-08-2016, 09:17 AM
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I replaced the whole cartridge. I purchased my lamp from Mitsubishi, the box has the same part number as the one listed on the site you linked to. I may have actually ordered it through that site as it was a Mitsubishi site.
I might not have made it clear in the first post but the flickering has been going on continuously since almost day one (like 5 years ago). I'm just wondering if the sudden loss of brightness and the sudden stop of the flickering might be related. I think it's very likely they could be and I'm just seeing if anyone else had a similar issue and what they had to do to fix it.
Thanks for the quick reply Augerhandle.
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post #347 of 356 Old 03-26-2016, 01:13 PM
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I did replaced my 73642 bulb with Original Philips. cleaned and vacuumed whole TV core, cleaned wheel glass and lens system.
It is as bright and new as a brand new piece.

I have another WD-Y65 very old model but works like new.
Someone told me if I replace few electonics boards then I can convert it to 3D..
Anyone has insight into this?
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post #348 of 356 Old 05-17-2016, 01:31 AM
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I need help there is green everywhere on my picture doesn't happen when I pull up the menu though. Does anyone have any answers?
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post #349 of 356 Old 05-27-2016, 08:58 AM
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color streak help

Great information on this thread. My Mitsubishi WS65909 just started showing this defect, a blue/orange line in the middle of the screen. It appeared previously before the set shut off showing code 23 (loss of horizontal deflection). Had the convergence chip replaced and all works fine, except color streak is still there. Any thoughts or experience with something like this? Thanks!
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post #350 of 356 Old 05-31-2016, 04:32 PM
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Great information on this thread. My Mitsubishi WS65909 just started showing this defect, a blue/orange line in the middle of the screen. It appeared previously before the set shut off showing code 23 (loss of horizontal deflection). Had the convergence chip replaced and all works fine, except color streak is still there. Any thoughts or experience with something like this? Thanks!
It's a simple fix. Google degaussing ring.

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post #351 of 356 Old 06-01-2016, 09:28 AM
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It's a simple fix. Google degaussing ring.
Thanks for the response. I googled degaussing ring and couldn't come up with anything for a 3 tube rear projection set. Could you expand on the process of degaussing the tubes? I have degaussed many ctr tv/monitors/video tapes, but never a 3 tube projection set. Thanks again!
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post #352 of 356 Old 06-01-2016, 04:24 PM
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Thanks for the response. I googled degaussing ring and couldn't come up with anything for a 3 tube rear projection set. Could you expand on the process of degaussing the tubes? I have degaussed many ctr tv/monitors/video tapes, but never a 3 tube projection set. Thanks again!



Try asking here: Don't dump your CRT RPTV!


Mr Bob is very knowledgeable.
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post #353 of 356 Old 06-02-2016, 07:54 AM
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Try asking here: Don't dump your CRT RPTV!


Mr Bob is very knowledgeable.
Will do, thanks again!
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post #354 of 356 Old 06-05-2016, 12:20 PM
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Figured I'd post in this forum since it directly applies to my situation:

I sold my pristine WD-82838 DLP to upgrade to the 92" 92A12 version. Found a 92A12 very near me and paid a local shipper to deliver it although it was sight unseen, I trusted the seller.

So TV shows up. It's FILTHY, it wreaks from smoke and there's dust on screen and entire set. It looks like this TV was literally used in a barn for 2 years. It has just shy of 14,000 hours on the set. There were all kinds of smudges and streaks on the screen. They might have tried to clean it with a detergent that ruined the clear screen? I don't know and can't really tell.

So I took my time and thoroughly washed it down with dampened micro fiber towels. What a job. I took me 3 hours to get most of the nasty brown dust off the TV. It still smells but nothing I can do about that.

Powered up the set and completely washed out and yellowish tint to screen. I had already purchased a brand new OEM mits bulb directly from Mitsubishi knowing that the bulb was well over due.

Hoping that was the issue I put the new bulb in and fired it up, only to find that it Marginally improved the picture. I mean it looks horrible. I took a picture of my 82838 in Brilliant mode as well as this set in Brilliant to compare. Look at the difference in picture from the 1st (my 82838) and the 2nd (the 92A12). The new set looks like your looking through a cloudy lens and the colors are washed out. Even my son asked "Dad what did you do. Your 82" looked incredible. This thing looks like crap!" And he was right. My heart just sank.

So now I'm wondering what the issue is and how much it will cost me to fix it. I did purchase shipping insurance on it so I was thinking of filing a claim depending what needs to be fixed and possibly cleaned on the set.

So knowing how much dirt dust smoke etc. this set was exposed to, is it possible that it just needs the internal screen (back side) and reflective mirror and maybe the light engine (since there is a color wheel which is exposed to air right) and the DLP chip (are the mirrors in the chip sealed or are they exposed to air as well)?

And I found this out after I let my PRISTINE 82" go. Any suggestions for me? I'm really bummed and feeling terrible... Could use some good advice guys/gals :
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post #355 of 356 Old 06-06-2016, 04:42 AM
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...So knowing how much dirt dust smoke etc. this set was exposed to, is it possible that it just needs the internal screen (back side) and reflective mirror and maybe the light engine (since there is a color wheel which is exposed to air right) and the DLP chip (are the mirrors in the chip sealed or are they exposed to air as well)?

And I found this out after I let my PRISTINE 82" go. Any suggestions for me? I'm really bummed and feeling terrible... Could use some good advice guys/gals :

I would clean starting from the screen, and working backwards towards the light source. The DMD chip's mirrors are sealed inside, so no worries there. Be very careful on the large mirror, as the silvering is on the surface and can be easily damaged. Download the service manual, and remove the screen. That will give you easy access to everything. After you clean the inside of the screen, the mirror, and the projector lens, reassemble and test. Good luck.

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post #356 of 356 Old 06-06-2016, 09:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Augerhandle View Post
I would clean starting from the screen, and working backwards towards the light source. The DMD chip's mirrors are sealed inside, so no worries there. Be very careful on the large mirror, as the silvering is on the surface and can be easily damaged. Download the service manual, and remove the screen. That will give you easy access to everything. After you clean the inside of the screen, the mirror, and the projector lens, reassemble and test. Good luck.
Thanks Auger. I was able to use a microfiber cloth (dampened with water) to clean the top of the projector housing (via the round access ports on side) and while the picture got brighter the colors still appear to be washed out. The mirror doesn't appear to be that dirty after viewing from the side ports on the TV. I believe that the light engine is dirty/bad/shot. What else would affect just the "colors" of the TV? Would you agree?

Also I could not find a "working link" to download the service manual. Can you fine one?

Thanks for you help Auger!
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