The Defective Mitsubishi DLP TV Owners Thread - Page 13 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #361 of 379 Old 10-14-2016, 10:52 AM
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Stumbled on this thread while looking for info on straightening the tilt of my Mistubishi WD-62627 display (turned out to be VERY easy to do - just need to review the adjustments section of the service manual). But I read the last few pages of the thread and saw so many discussions about bad replacement lamps I thought I would just add my experience - it has been generally good.

I bought the TV somewhere back in 2006 - first lamp died in a few moths and was replaced under warranty. Didn't really use the TV all that much for the next 3 years, but then I moved and it became our primary TV - the Mitsubishi replacement lamp (marked Osram) worked fine for another two years after that rough move, but then the TV quit working without any specific failure notification. I bought a new cheapo replacement on Amazon - the lamp was about $20 and is advertised as "High Quality AuraBeam Replacement Bulb" sold by Exclusive Bulbs. While the plug alignment on the lamp housing was just slightly off from the original, causing me to need to fiddle with it for a while to get it properly inserted and locked down, that lamp has worked perfectly for me for over 5,000 hours. Even though I do not yet need another, I think I will order one just to compare the brightness against a new one. After all, $20 is a pretty low cost to have a backup lamp available. You can find my full review of this lamp on Amazon as user "Mauser".
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post #362 of 379 Old 10-14-2016, 11:08 AM
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^^^

OK, you talked me into it...since I've been needing a new bulb for a while now, I ordered the AuraBeam.

Never had good luck with aftermarket bulbs...I will report back.
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post #363 of 379 Old 11-03-2016, 07:50 AM
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Just an update on my cheapo-lamps:

Although my last lamp is still working fine with about 5,200 hours on it, the warm-up takes about 30 seconds to bright, so I did order a new AuraBeam lamp and will be keeping the older one as backup. My experiences are so far identical to my first one.

The plug on the new lamp initially did not mate perfectly with the TV on the first try to just slide the lamp in place - after trying to inset it, you could see a small mark on the plug where the plastic was hitting. It only took one or two more tries with a slight tilt towards the right side to get the plug to mate, then a little fiddling with a flat screwdriver blade at the edge to move the housing a tad in order to properly line up the locking screw holes. The lamp comes with three small springs to use under the locking screws, but I find them way too stiff to easily get the screws started - I have BIG hands and not much space to work in! The easy solution is to just leave those springs off and use the screwdriver to nudge the lamp housing to line up those holes.

New lamp is working perfectly, and warm-up time is now about 10-15 seconds. To me that is $20 well spent; brighter picture and now have spare on the shelf.
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post #364 of 379 Old 11-03-2016, 08:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Alan P View Post
^^^

OK, you talked me into it...since I've been needing a new bulb for a while now, I ordered the AuraBeam.

Never had good luck with aftermarket bulbs...I will report back.
I will post an update as well.

My first AuraBeam ($27 on Amazon...where are you finding them for $20??) didn't do well. No problems at all installing it...no fiddling with the connector, and was extremely bright. That didn't last though...after 3 days, the brightness dropped to about half of what it was initially, and changing the Energy setting from Standard to Bright had no effect.

Returned the bulb and ordered another of the same. Have had the replacement up and running for about a week now and so far, so good. Very bright and the pic looks great! Fingers crossed that this one lasts for me.
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post #365 of 379 Old 11-05-2016, 03:25 PM
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My first AuraBeam ($27 on Amazon...where are you finding them for $20??)
Right here (and even 5 cents UNDER $20): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Maybe your lamp model is a little different? Or maybe you just didn't look long enough - I have often found the identical part listed from the same seller with multiple entries and prices. I now spend a lot of time cross-checking before I submit an order!

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post #366 of 379 Old 04-26-2017, 01:26 PM
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WD-82740 Dead?

Hi, I see not much activity here lately but hoping someone might have some insight on issue with my 5yr old WD-82740........ I think it has a bad board or power supply. I've had to replace both years ago on my 65" DLP maybe back in 2009 or so......

Never had a problem w/ my 82" until few months ago - 45 days after squaretrade expired..... Unit would periodically just shut off but never could find a code for the problem as it was very intermittent.....

then one day I turned it on, heard a loud pop and smelled something burnt from the back and never powered on again, no lights or code at all... completely dead now.

Haven't pulled it out yet to check and see what burnt(bulb is fine) cuz it's kind of hard to get to but just wondering if anyone knows the part numbers for the power supply or the main board in this 82" - curious if any parts from my old 65" or a neighbors 73" w/ dots could be recycled for this 82" before I dig into the problems and tear it apart......

I have access to a WD-73638 and hoping it uses same parts as my 82", if anyone knows for sure would be great help before I rip it apart......... have to double check on my 65" model #

Last edited by zennn; 04-26-2017 at 01:31 PM.
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post #367 of 379 Old 04-26-2017, 01:46 PM
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Originally Posted by zennn View Post
Hi, I see not much activity here lately but hoping someone might have some insight on issue with my 5yr old WD-82740........ I think it has a bad board or power supply. I've had to replace both years ago on my 65" DLP maybe back in 2009 or so......

Never had a problem w/ my 82" until few months ago - 45 days after squaretrade expired..... Unit would periodically just shut off but never could find a code for the problem as it was very intermittent.....

then one day I turned it on, heard a loud pop and smelled something burnt from the back and never powered on again, no lights or code at all... completely dead now.

Haven't pulled it out yet to check and see what burnt(bulb is fine) cuz it's kind of hard to get to but just wondering if anyone knows the part numbers for the power supply or the main board in this 82" - curious if any parts from my old 65" or a neighbors 73" w/ dots could be recycled for this 82" before I dig into the problems and tear it apart......

I have access to a WD-73638 and hoping it uses same parts as my 82", if anyone knows for sure would be great help before I rip it apart......... have to double check on my 65" model #
I'm not sure about the 73638 using the same parts or not, but the part # for the power supply on your 82740 is:

934c409002

They always say to check the 02 # on your board to make sure it is highlighted in red.

You can't get a new power supply anywhere, but there is a guy on Ebay who sells them used. He's asking $100, but he will take $75. Here is the link:


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mitsubishi-W...QkcO4suFaMaNMg

The bad news for you is if your main board is bad, then you are out of luck. I can't find anyone who sells or works on those boards.

I'm in the same boat as you. My 72840 got hit by lighting and I know it has a bad power supply. I think the main board is bad as well but don't know how to test it to be sure.

I would buy a power supply and see if that fixed it, but I don't want to spend $75.00 because if my main board is bad, then I have no TV and I'm out $75.

I'm hoping I can find someone who has a main board for sale, then I will purchase a power supply. At least that way I would be in position to buy a main board if I needed it.


Here is the part # for the main board:

934C407002

If you happen to find someone who has them, please let me know.

Last edited by Sammysofa; 04-26-2017 at 01:49 PM.
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post #368 of 379 Old 04-26-2017, 01:51 PM
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Have you tried to get the board replaced? Mitsu knows the boards were bad. You have to play their game and have a report on your tv filed with customer service and then have a Mitsu certified repair shop come look at your tv. If they say bad board then they will charge Mitsu for the repairs and replace the board for free if you sign a non-disclosure.
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post #369 of 379 Old 04-26-2017, 02:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Sammysofa View Post
I'm not sure about the 73638 using the same parts or not, but the part # for the power supply on your 82740 is:

934c409002

They always say to check the 02 # on your board to make sure it is highlighted in red.

You can't get a new power supply anywhere, but there is a guy on Ebay who sells them used. He's asking $100, but he will take $75. Here is the link:


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mitsubishi-W...QkcO4suFaMaNMg

The bad news for you is if your main board is bad, then you are out of luck. I can't find anyone who sells or works on those boards.

I'm in the same boat as you. My 72840 got hit by lighting and I know it has a bad power supply. I think the main board is bad as well but don't know how to test it to be sure.

I would buy a power supply and see if that fixed it, but I don't want to spend $75.00 because if my main board is bad, then I have no TV and I'm out $75.

I'm hoping I can find someone who has a main board for sale, then I will purchase a power supply. At least that way I would be in position to buy a main board if I needed it.


Here is the part # for the main board:

934C407002

If you happen to find someone who has them, please let me know.
Thank you for the info on part #s , I did find that listing on ebay last night for power supply but wasn't sure about it's part #.... I'm hoping main board is fine or that it is interchangeable with 73".....
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post #370 of 379 Old 04-26-2017, 02:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Roofus View Post
Have you tried to get the board replaced? Mitsu knows the boards were bad. You have to play their game and have a report on your tv filed with customer service and then have a Mitsu certified repair shop come look at your tv. If they say bad board then they will charge Mitsu for the repairs and replace the board for free if you sign a non-disclosure.

Well that is good to know, had no idea.... wonder if Mitsu finds a certified repair shop to accommodate us or are we on our own in this endeavor and cost...
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post #371 of 379 Old 04-26-2017, 02:20 PM
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Originally Posted by zennn View Post
Thank you for the info on part #s , I did find that listing on ebay last night for power supply but wasn't sure about it's part #.... I'm hoping main board is fine or that it is interchangeable with 73".....
No problem! I had written that guy earlier and he said he would take $75, so if you submit a best offer, he should take it.

I know the 73740's main board is the same as your 82740, but I don't think the main board out of the 73638 is compatible. I'm not certain though.

Best of luck to you! Hopefully it is just your power supply.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Roofus View Post
Have you tried to get the board replaced? Mitsu knows the boards were bad. You have to play their game and have a report on your tv filed with customer service and then have a Mitsu certified repair shop come look at your tv. If they say bad board then they will charge Mitsu for the repairs and replace the board for free if you sign a non-disclosure.
Since mine was hit by lighting, I'm not sure I would qualify.

Even if I did, where are they going to get a main board for a 73740. They don't seem to exist anymore.

Last edited by Sammysofa; 04-26-2017 at 02:23 PM.
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post #372 of 379 Old 04-26-2017, 06:32 PM
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code 4 red 8 yellow......

Might not be the power supply...... pulled power supply and replaced blown fuse.... heard TV power on and spit out code of 4 red and 8 yellow which I can't find anywhere.... but then the fuse blew again and starting to smell smoke coming from near light ballast area.... had cover on so couldn't see exactly where but once cover pulled could smell it really strong.....

anyone know what code 48 refers to on 82740?

Found 48 in service manual..... found out that Code is a code 48 (PON-Short 3.3v or 5v, PWB-Main failure... but doesn't explain why ballast started smoking......

link to service manual ofr anyone in need..... https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B82G...Z6RUR5NDA/edit

Last edited by zennn; 04-26-2017 at 06:45 PM.
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post #373 of 379 Old 04-27-2017, 12:26 PM
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Originally Posted by zennn View Post
Might not be the power supply...... pulled power supply and replaced blown fuse.... heard TV power on and spit out code of 4 red and 8 yellow which I can't find anywhere.... but then the fuse blew again and starting to smell smoke coming from near light ballast area.... had cover on so couldn't see exactly where but once cover pulled could smell it really strong.....

anyone know what code 48 refers to on 82740?

Found 48 in service manual..... found out that Code is a code 48 (PON-Short 3.3v or 5v, PWB-Main failure... but doesn't explain why ballast started smoking......

link to service manual ofr anyone in need..... https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B82G...Z6RUR5NDA/edit
That is the same code mine is giving me after the lighting strike. I'm not sure if (PWB-Main) means the main board is bad, or the power supply is bad, or maybe it means both are bad.

All I know is that my power supply is not putting out the right standby voltage, so I know it is bad. Have you tested your power supply with a meter?

I wonder if your power supply sent too much voltage to your ballast after you replaced the fuse, and caused the smoking? Did you replace the fuse with the same type / size?

I've order a power supply for mine, but I'm not very hopeful that it will fix it since the lighting destroyed my blue ray player and amp which were hooked up to the TV via HDMI (Main Board). I figured since there are no main boards available, this is the only way to know for sure if my main board is good or not.


Since you didn't get hit with a power surge or anything, there is a chance that it is just a bad power supply in yours. If I were you, I would unplug the cables going to your main board, and test the voltages of the power supply.
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post #374 of 379 Old 04-27-2017, 02:27 PM
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I found some info about testing the main board here:

http://www.justanswer.com/tv-repair/...-on-front.html

They had the same code 48, and he says they replaced the main board and still got code 48. The "Expert" says to test the pin 1 on the PD connector (Main Board) and you should get 5v.

Then test pin 3 of connector LE (Main board) and you should have 3.3 volts. If you look under the bottom of the power supply assembly, you can access those connections on the main board easily. (PD, and LE)

They never said if the new board tested bad or not.


Then there was this post:
http://www.justanswer.com/tv-repair/...-replaced.html

Different model, but same 48 code. He had a tech replace the main board and optical engine and still got the same code. The "Expert" in that post says to test the voltages on the main board like the last guy said.

Quote:
Use a meter to test the 3.3v and 5v lines on connector LE pins 3, 4 and 5 to see what the voltage is doing. If the voltage does not come up (which I suspect is your problem) you need a new power supply
I'm not sure how you would go about testing your main board when it causes your ballast to smoke when you plug the power supply in, but I thought the info would be helpful to someone in a similar situation as we are.

I tested my main board, and I don't get 5v on pin one of LE. I get 4.8v. I have no idea of .2 volts less is enough to make a difference or not, but my power supply will be here in a few days and I will know for sure.

Knowing that those two guys got the same code and replaced the main board with no solution makes me a little more optimistic that my issues might just be the power supply. We'll see soon enough.
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post #375 of 379 Old 04-27-2017, 02:49 PM
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Mitsubishi L75-A91 code 12

Mitsubishi L75-A91 code 12 question
Hello everyone,
New to this forum. I have a L75-A91 DLP big screen TV. I bought it from a friend and after a year or so it began to shut off. It would turn back on right away and work for a while but eventually turn off. It began to shut off more frequently until today it turned off and, when turned back on would stay black. Came back one hour later and turned it on and it stayed on for 15 minutes...I then saw the color dim before it shut off. I did the diagnostic test and got a code 12. I couldn't find this code listed on the manual so I hope to ask here to see if this is something I can fix myself. When on the color and sound is very good. I checked google and found a code 12 is a power board failure. Another search for this board was not successful. Is the board produced by anyone? Has anyone had this issue before?

Any help will be appreciated,

Kevin
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post #376 of 379 Old 04-27-2017, 11:17 PM
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Mitsubishi L75-A91 code 12 question
Hello everyone,
New to this forum. I have a L75-A91 DLP big screen TV. I bought it from a friend and after a year or so it began to shut off. It would turn back on right away and work for a while but eventually turn off. It began to shut off more frequently until today it turned off and, when turned back on would stay black. Came back one hour later and turned it on and it stayed on for 15 minutes...I then saw the color dim before it shut off. I did the diagnostic test and got a code 12. I couldn't find this code listed on the manual so I hope to ask here to see if this is something I can fix myself. When on the color and sound is very good. I checked google and found a code 12 is a power board failure. Another search for this board was not successful. Is the board produced by anyone? Has anyone had this issue before?

Any help will be appreciated,

Kevin

Code 12 is


No serious error since last main power on or


last micro initialization.



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post #377 of 379 Old 05-01-2017, 12:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Roofus View Post
Have you tried to get the board replaced? Mitsu knows the boards were bad. You have to play their game and have a report on your tv filed with customer service and then have a Mitsu certified repair shop come look at your tv. If they say bad board then they will charge Mitsu for the repairs and replace the board for free if you sign a non-disclosure.
I opened a report on my TV, but they said the main boards are short in demand, and will need special approval. They wouldn't tell me what would be approved or not. I'm not paying to have a certified Mitsu tech come out and tell me what I already know, especially when they want way too much for the part. So for now, I have a 72" paper weight that purchased less than 5 years ago that now cost twice as much to repair as what it's worth. I'm disappointed with Mitsubishi.

Last edited by Sammysofa; 05-11-2017 at 02:05 PM.
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post #378 of 379 Old 05-04-2017, 02:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Sammysofa View Post
I tested my main board, and I don't get 5v on pin one of LE. I get 4.8v. I have no idea of .2 volts less is enough to make a difference or not, but my power supply will be here in a few days and I will know for sure.
It looks like my old power supply is not the issue. I tried a new one and it measured the same voltage as my old power supply. Needless to say, it didn't fix the Code 48.

That means my main board is the problem. If there is anyone out there that has a WD-73740 or a WD-82740 that you are looking to part out, I'm interested in the main board. I guess this thing is going in storage in the mean time.
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L75-A91 Issue Advice requested

L75-A91 Manufactured in September of 2010 question
Like everyone else here my above TV shut down. I bought it from a friend 3 years ago. I don't watch it much but it always worked well. A month or so ago it shut off for no reason. No error code for overheating and no red light. I did get a code 12 which I believe is the main power board. I turned it on again and worked for 10 minutes and shut off. I pulled it out and rearranged my room to provide lots of room around it for air flow. After a few weeks and as it sat in the middle of the room I connected it and turned it on. Fell asleep and it was still on 4 hours later. Tested it twice again and it worked fine for 2 + hours each time. Moved it back into place and it worked fine for the past week..and hour hear and there. Today t was on for an hour and it shut off like before. Turned it on and got only sound. Did the system reset and it worked for 10 minutes then turned off. Turned it on again and watched it. A few minutes later the picture dimmed and it shut off. The picture dimes each time before shutting off. No signs of overheating. I even had a fan blowing on the back side. I don't know if this is a site to ask for advice but I posted this in two other areas and got no responses. I searched but couldn't find any information. I can try to fix it but wonder if it is advisable because of the issues with this TV. When it works the picture is great. Anyone have any advise as to what could be wrong? Power board? Picture bulb? When these same symptoms happened before I checked the codes and got a code 12 which I believe is the power board. I could not find anyone who makes them. Can anyone give me direction before I give up on this. Thanks for any information.

Kevin
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