Samsung Problems (who woulda guessed) - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 30 Old 10-21-2010, 05:56 AM - Thread Starter
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So i have a samsung HLN4365WX/XAA
the issue is it will not turn on, when you plug the set in and hit the power button you hear the relay clicking and giving power to the set. The only other noise is the fans run. The Lamp light on the front blinks. The color wheel does not spin, the ballast doesnt whine and the bulb does not light. Now just recently whilst at work i decided to tear it apart and have a look see, so i tripped the lamp door switch with a screw driver and what do you know the set worked. so satisfied i put it back together and it didnt work, so i figured hey its gotta be that lamp door switch so i propped it open again and nothing. apparently the switch is fine as the set realized when the door was open and when it was not (as indicated per the temp light and lamp light blinking together) I have taken out all the boards and everything inside the set until it was empty. I cleaned everything including boards, fans, and vents. I then reassembled the tv. I Still have the problem as described before, the color wheel does not spin, the ballast doesnt charge and the lamp wont light. Oh and by the way both the Color Wheel and Lamp are brand new. Anybody have any ideas on what the problem may be?
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post #2 of 30 Old 10-21-2010, 07:27 AM
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Might be a dead power board.
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post #3 of 30 Old 10-21-2010, 07:34 AM - Thread Starter
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well i thought that too, but when i gutted the tv i looked at all the boards and none of the capacitors on the power board are blown or swollen, the leds are getting power, the board next to the analog board is getting power (green leds light up on the back) and the ballast is getting power. the only thing i saw was on the analog board it seemed as though half the capacitors were a little swollen none blew, but the tops were barely convex instead of concave. so i dont know if the analog board would be the cause of all this or something else is wrong. Ive been workin at this tv for months now ive scowered google, bing and many other forums and nobody has the same issue or can help im starting to get frustrated with this tv
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post #4 of 30 Old 10-21-2010, 01:52 PM
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Yes, as these DLPs get older, many things can go wrong and unless you have the testing tools some techs have, it becomes very expensive trying to replace things one by one till you find the right part. Maybe try taping the door latch in the on position, possibly when the door is closing it's not making a good contact, as you got it to work doing that with the screwdriver it's worth a try.

And even tho the power board looks ok, it could still be malfunctioning.
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post #5 of 30 Old 10-21-2010, 02:00 PM
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I had a 50" doing the exact same thing, had voltage to the ballast but no color wheel spinup or lamp light.
Well we got a kitten and the tv was down on the floor and apart, he liked to climb in the board area and I figure, what can he hurt (unplugged).

Prior to this, I tried a different ballast, bulb, color wheel etc - different brands though.

So earlier this week, I put the tv up to work on it and tried it again all with the original parts. Now it works fine every time EXCEPT there isn't any volume from the inputs - the chime works and the volume works on that.

Moral of the story is, I don't know what happened to make it work but I can sympathize with you LOL.

Would you like to borrow my kitten???

LOL
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post #6 of 30 Old 10-21-2010, 02:08 PM - Thread Starter
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well i jumped the connection between the the two wires for the switch (so basically i hotwired it) so the circuit is always closed as if the door was always on, i have a volt meter or fluke which ever you prefer to call it, so if theres certain pins that could help indicate if thats the prob or not that would help too
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post #7 of 30 Old 10-21-2010, 02:09 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pacofortacos View Post

I had a 50" doing the exact same thing, had voltage to the ballast but no color wheel spinup or lamp light.
Well we got a kitten and the tv was down on the floor and apart, he liked to climb in the board area and I figure, what can he hurt (unplugged).

Prior to this, I tried a different ballast, bulb, color wheel etc - different brands though.

So earlier this week, I put the tv up to work on it and tried it again all with the original parts. Now it works fine every time EXCEPT there isn't any volume from the inputs - the chime works and the volume works on that.

Moral of the story is, I don't know what happened to make it work but I can sympathize with you LOL.

Would you like to borrow my kitten???

LOL

yes ill take the cat, stick that thing in a small cardboard box and ship her here, dont forget the holes tho, as i may need her alive. hahaha, jk
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post #8 of 30 Old 10-21-2010, 02:32 PM
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Oh the only other thing I did do was - removed the cover on the DMD board (it's still off), cleaned that heat sink and board area out AND pushed on c119 fairly hard ( lower center right chip - marked on board).

Do you know of a way to turn off the internal speakers?? That is what my set seems like is happening OR I lost something on one of the boards - there is a swelled cap on the analog board.
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post #9 of 30 Old 10-21-2010, 02:35 PM - Thread Starter
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swelled cap might be problem
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post #10 of 30 Old 10-21-2010, 02:41 PM
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the c119 chip is a known problem, a ballast could also cause your problem.
Did you run into the thread where the guy gives the sequence of events it takes to power up?
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post #11 of 30 Old 10-21-2010, 02:43 PM - Thread Starter
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nope i just got back to this forum, i was saving it for last result, so i havent been up to date on whats in here
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post #12 of 30 Old 10-21-2010, 03:16 PM
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It wasn't in here for the sequence.
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post #13 of 30 Old 10-21-2010, 03:18 PM
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TV Startup sequence goes like this:

1. Power supply powers on
2. Sends voltage to DMD & Ballast
3. DMD Sends ON signal to Color Wheel
4. Color Wheel Spins at required RPM
5. If color wheel is spining at proper RPM, signal is sent to DMD board saying ColorWheel is OK.
6. DMD board sends 5V ON signal to ballast.
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post #14 of 30 Old 10-21-2010, 03:18 PM - Thread Starter
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im pretty sure like 90% sure its color wheel, ballast, then lamp
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post #15 of 30 Old 10-21-2010, 03:21 PM - Thread Starter
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now just to double check here, the dmd board is the one with the thousands of mirrors right, and it has the aluminum sheeting around it has the heatsink on the back and has the screws with springs on it right
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post #16 of 30 Old 10-21-2010, 04:33 PM
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That sequence is from samsung via a tech, yes it is that board. Just remove the tape on the top and then the cover slides right off. The C119 chip is on that board.

Did you test to see if you have the voltage to the ballast? 380 v at the one connector, 5 at the other?
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post #17 of 30 Old 10-21-2010, 04:40 PM - Thread Starter
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which connector, the power running to the ballast yes i have 380v
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post #18 of 30 Old 10-21-2010, 04:47 PM
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the 5 v is the small connector, not sure which pin, if you search the web you can find the pinout.
Yours sounds just like mine did. What brand bulb is in it?
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post #19 of 30 Old 10-21-2010, 05:08 PM - Thread Starter
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also what did you do with the brass grounders on the dmd board? the little golden fingers that screw into the bottom of the aluminum shielding
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post #20 of 30 Old 10-21-2010, 06:06 PM
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The shield and grounders are one, and they are sitting next to the tv for now
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post #21 of 30 Old 10-21-2010, 06:09 PM - Thread Starter
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ok well i did what you said and no such luck. im gonna check that ballast within the next half hour or so
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post #22 of 30 Old 10-23-2010, 07:39 AM
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I went to put the cover back on today, and now it won't work again. 1 time it fired the color wheel then came on - out of 15 tries.

I wonder if it is the ballast??? Let me know if it fixes yours, ok? thanks
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post #23 of 30 Old 10-23-2010, 07:42 AM - Thread Starter
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ya it was a no go with the cover off. so i dont know what else to do with the sammy
on top of that as if my day wasnt bad enough, my 61" infocus just melted a plastic lens inside my light tunnel and i cant find a part number nor anyone who knows where i could pick one up at :-(
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post #24 of 30 Old 10-23-2010, 06:40 PM
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Cover back off of my tv, it worked intermittently. So I took the cover off of the dmd board and left it off, pressed on c119 and now it works - every time, the few that I checked it.

I think I'm going to take a soldering iron to that chips leads and heat them up - soon
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post #25 of 30 Old 10-23-2010, 06:41 PM
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That sucks that both of them died on you.

I still don't have any audio though, really don't care as this was a buy cheap, try to fix, and either give away or sell cheap to someone.
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post #26 of 30 Old 10-23-2010, 06:50 PM - Thread Starter
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well if you wanna part out let me know, i could prolly use some. im more worried about my 61" its my main tv and its been down for two weeks. i need to find someone who knows the part number to that lens too
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post #27 of 30 Old 10-24-2010, 08:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pacofortacos View Post

Cover back off of my tv, it worked intermittently. So I took the cover off of the dmd board and left it off, pressed on c119 and now it works - every time, the few that I checked it.

I think I'm going to take a soldering iron to that chips leads and heat them up - soon

Take something that is a nonconductor and gently push different locations
on the board you may be able to isolate the bad connection. You might try a hair dryer to heat it up sometimes this show up the trouble (don't get it too hot).
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post #28 of 30 Old 10-24-2010, 02:28 PM
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I just tried it again (it has been unplugged since yesterday), fired right up.

Last time all I did was remove the metal shield on the DMD board and press on C119, I think it has worked since - I can't remember if it started working right after that or 1 or 2 tries after.

Nice picture, still no audio though.

The big problem is either the DMD board or a wire that I keep bumping when getting to the DMD board.

Have to wait to see if it breaks again
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post #29 of 30 Old 10-26-2010, 07:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pacofortacos View Post

TV Startup sequence goes like this:

1. Power supply powers on
2. Sends voltage to DMD & Ballast
3. DMD Sends ON signal to Color Wheel
4. Color Wheel Spins at required RPM
5. If color wheel is spining at proper RPM, signal is sent to DMD board saying ColorWheel is OK.
6. DMD board sends 5V ON signal to ballast.

OK I got all that and it's working(HLR4667W)(new lamp and colorwheel). Mine still won't fire up. I see the light dimly on the screen, lamp light flashes for a minute or so, and then it turns off (red standby). Very frustrating. what's next in the sequence? It would appear the DMD board would be good if the colorwheel spins up and the lamp is lit.
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post #30 of 30 Old 10-26-2010, 08:37 PM
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- Ballast Fire Up (which then turns the lamp "on")
- Ballast sends electronic pulse to DMD
- If PASS - Go to Next Step
- If FAIL - Shut Down TV (3 Lights Blinking)

7 - DMD Receives OK from BALLAST - Send VIDEO to screen

Digital Board controls the digital functions of the TV (On, Off, Menu, Etc)
- Blinking Menu - MOST LIKELY bad Digital Board
- TV Turns on by itself when plugged in - MOST LIKELY bad Digital Board
- TV Won't Turn off or is non-responsive to buttons or remote - MOST LIKELY bad Digital Board

Digital Board is responsible for processing and descrambling the OSV (On-Screen VIDEO, does NOT include Menu System)
- Menu is OK and Video is bad, DMD Board is MOST LIKELY GOOD and Digital Board has bad DNIe Chip

**Here is where some technicians make a mistake... The Digital Board produces the on-screen menu, but it does so using a separate memory chip! It does not use the DNIe chip for menu functions! This is why we test the OSM (on-screen menu) to diagnose... Even though the Digital Board produces this menu, it does not process it or pass it through DNIe Chip.. DNIe chip is what converts the ANALOG video to DIGITAL with some enhancing, upconverting, etc. When we press menu and the menu shows up fine but video is scrambled, this means the DNIe chip or one of its related components is failing. The MENU Function are on a separate path to the DMD board and are not decompressed, compressed, or decoded in any way (Direct to Display).

DMD Board is responsible for ultimate video output
- TV is scrambled (lines or blackouts) - MOST LIKELY BAD DMD Board
- TV won't turn on and Color Wheel is GOOD, Temp sensor is GOOD, Ballast is GOOD, and TV won't power - DMD is not sending 5VDC out to Ballast ---- DMD is MOST LIKELY bad

Quote from another forum and what appears to be a good tech.
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