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Problems with a older TV, new isn't always better. Try repairing it first!

51K views 46 replies 15 participants last post by  three4rd 
#1 ·
When I say "older", I'm not referring to sets that are 15+ years old. I'm referring to models that are at least "HD Ready".

There is no 'easy' way to troubleshoot anything. The number one rule is "divide and conquer". Narrow down what/where the problem is. You don't have to have an electronics degree!

Below are posts with a wealth of information, but YOU have to spend some time looking through these if you want to save your device, whether it be a TV or anything else. I tried to group these to make the search easier. With many problems, you are not the only one that has experienced the issue.


In the past couple of years there has been a increased number of threads by members that are having a problem with their RPTV. Being the oldest of the three major current technologies, of course it's understandable. Sorry to burst your bubble, but mass produced consumer products do break, no matter how much you paid for them!


Many have little electronics experience with no idea what to do other than calling someone to take a look at the set. The problem with that is,

1. You pay a fee for the visit, even if nothing is or can be done,

2. Unless you know who you are dealing with, you take a chance that he is actually familiar with the set. No, I'm not kidding.



Judging by the owners one star reviews (posted in many sites), the last point is a problem with thousands of owners where the service visit consists of someone that has no or little idea what's wrong or isn't familiar with the product (even though he should be).
Most people do not take the time to find out in advance what choices (if any) they have for "authorized" service. When the time comes, they then find there is no "authorized" shop and the manufactures tries to come up with something, but usually fails according to the experiences posted. Read through the one star reviews from Amazon.com and see all the owners that wait for the service call, shops that don't return calls or return the visit at all.


Cutting costs by manufactures (some more than others) to a point of not having a service network except in major areas and/or not having a anything at all, but telling the customer to either deal with the store where you bought it or ship it back to them at your expense. Most of those are these 'oddball' names, or 'store brands' where you have no idea what/who actually made this thing. Those you wind up 'eating' and toss and never buy again. For the 'name' brands there might be a better way.


I did a series of "Whats' Inside" threads.
For those that have no idea what's involved inside a DLP RPTV, take a look here even if your set isn't from one of these manufactures.;


JVC;
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=455897
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=598154
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=638602


Samsung;
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=674513


Mits;
http://archive2.avsforum.com/avs-vb/...d.php?t=581146



Remember, divide and conquer the problem.
 
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#27 ·

Quote:
"rash of capacitor failures from the early & mid 2000's due to poor Taiwanese design"

Where does this bs come from?

From dozens of reports, threads & articles on the subject. It's a well know fact. Do your research first. Just because you never heard of it, doesn't mean it doesn't/didn't exist.
 
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#28 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by videobruce /forum/post/20984649


A member took the trouble to post his pic of what I assume is their 'green glob' problem. Correct me if that was a bad assumption;

That's funny because my Wega has the same problem. I figure it's time for an upgrade so I was doing some research here on what to buy and ran into this thread!!
 
#29 ·
hey bruce...


that picture you posted is what i fear will be the end of my lg set. something as small as an internal fan failure would cause this filter blob. also having the set too close to a wall would result in poor air circulation around the inside of the set. or simply not putting the tv into standby mode before powering down the set, which would turn the lamp housing fans off before extracting all the hot air from the lamp area.


on a side note, i sourced brand new replacement fans for my lg and theyre $50 (EACH!!) from a parts warehouse here in australia. these are your standard 80/120mm fans!! i simply cant find the same vol/amp fans around on the net though? anyone know of a good website or store? i refuse to pay this much, and continue to search...


may your tv set live forever
 
#31 ·

Thanks to Low Tech for the following. Full thread in my 4th post:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Low Tech /forum/post/21279290


Ok, I had been testing my power supply mod to fix random power up issues. Parts list at the end.


I had noticed at times my DLP had powered on and off or just had the light flash without producing any picture or startup sound.


As of late I found that the power supply's heating up issue was because of the 12V 2.5A output was being consumed to the point of not keeping up with demand once fully warmed up.


The culperate can be easily found on the bottem side of the Main Board. If know how to solder components, the fix is about $30.00 for all the parts to repair your power supply and faulty main board components.


That is less than the cost of replacing both at over $325.00.


Samsung had used low cost filtering capacitors in the powersupply and revised a critical component change to the power supply in various areas.


What happens is a snow ball effect, filtering capacitor fail, causing higher spikes to hit and weaken the Metal Oxide Varistor at the end of the filtering stage.


The only way to know is to sniff for a slight oder of ozone or BBQ affect when the power supply has warmed up. Once you deturmine there is some oder. Power off and wait a few minutes before removing the power supply. The retangle box things are the poly film capacitors. They are along side the toroid (doughnut shaped) filters. Remove each one and look on the bottem ends for discoloration. Not all will be discolored but might as well be replaced as they have been stressed.


Once the Metal Oxide Varistor becomes too weak to filter, voltage spikes will be introduced into the output stage randomly.


Because of a design change to put the MOV (Metal Oxide Varistor) at the end not the begining near the fuse, and not to follow Fairchilds design guidelines in using proper filtering capacitors for the FSCQ0765RT TV switch to power the DC switched power to the main components.


As for the Main Board, this part is speculation about the parts used in the main board, but has truth to more low quailty parts.


There are two 470 Ohm 1/3w chip resistors powering a LM317 1A adjustable voltage regulator that is to deliver 6.3v to the main controller chip of the Main Board.


Mine were fried because of the voltage spikes, as they were used as surge protection. They were to fail like a fuse, but actually started to short out below the 150 ohm range. Thus over driving the curent capabilities of the 1A LM317 and making it unstable. Mine seemed to become damaged as once it heated up it ran into thermal breakdown causing more and more current to be consumed, and the 12v voltage from the power supply would drop. Because of the higher amount of current the power supply would heat up beyond its normal running temprature.


It was easy to spot without any tools, as it discolored the circuit traces at the resistors and made a blue tent, almost like someone marked the components for QC check.


==================================================


Ok here is what I accumulated for replacement to keep things tip top. Just because one component will fail, it is best to replace everything associated with the failed components function that could become stressed.


1x MM3Z8V2B - 200ma 8.2v Zener chip diode, location DZ209

1x LM317EMP - 1A adjustable regulator, location IC204

2x ERJ-P08J471V - 470 Ohm 1/3w anti-surge chip resistor, location R232 and R233


1x B32620J681J - 680pf film capacitor for PS, never was installed, location C8110, between main transformer and black heat sink.


3x B32620J471J - 470pf flim capacitor for PS, never was installed, location CS811, C823 & C827, all next to the rear heat sink back side.


2x V250LA40AP - 250 VAC / 330 VDC 6.5 KA MOV for PS and SPS, location GT802


4x V275LA20CP - 275VAC 5KA @ 473VAC 145J MOV, 1 @ location VX8015 and 3 optional for AC power receptical mod.


2x R46KI368000P0K - 0.68uf 275VAC Poly Film Capacitor, location CX8035 & CX8015


1x PHE840MD6680KD18R06L2 - 0.68uf 275VAC Poly Film Capacitor, location CX8025
pics removed from hosting site
 
#32 ·
I just received a e-mail from Mitsubishi regard a class action lawsuit as follows concerning cap failures for V30 & V26 chassis;
Quote:
If you own or have owned any of the television sets listed below, you may be entitled to receive benefits as a result of the settlement of a class action lawsuit. Please go to http://settlement.mdea.com/ for complete details.


WD-52525

WD-52725

WD-52825

WD-52825G

WD-62525

WD-62725

WD-62825

WD-62825G

WD-52327

WD-62327

WD-52628

WD-62628

WD-52631

WD-57731

WD-57732

WD-65731

WD-65732

WD-Y57

WD-Y65

WD-73732

WD-57831

WD-65831

WD-73831


Further Qualification and Benefits

If you have one of the television models listed in the table above, please see the "How to File a Claim" document for more information on qualification and benefits.


Your Legal Rights and Options in this Settlement:
Do Nothing: You will be included in the Settlement and will receive the extended warranty benefit provided by the Settlement.
Exclude Yourself: You will not receive the full benefits provided by this Settlement. This is the only option that allows you to be part of an individual lawsuit (no class action) against Mitsubishi about the facts and legal claims in this case.

Be Heard or Object: Write to the Court about why you like or don't like the Settlement.

Go to Hearing: Attend a hearing before the Court about the fairness of the Settlement.


For more information regarding your options in this settlement, including pertinent dates, please see the "Notice" document ( http://settlement.mdea.com/Documents/notice.pdf ).


Full Details: please see the "Notice" document ( http://settlement.mdea.com/Documents/notice.pdf ) for the full details of this case. Excerpts as follows;

If a Class Members V30 chassis or V26 chassis television experienced a failure related to the performance of the original capacitors prior to September 30, 2011, and the Class member has not yet paid to have it repaired, MDEA will provide either (i) a repair at no cost to the Class Member for parts or labor or (b) the opportunity to purchase a 2011 Mitsubishi DLP television at dealers cost. Class members who incurred charges stemming from repairs to the original capacitors between April 1, 2011 and September 30, 2011 will be reimbursed for

the reasonable expenses (parts and labor) incurred for such repairs to the extent that such repairs have not already been reimbursed.



This email was sent by: Mitsubishi Electric Visual Solutions America, Inc.

9351 Jeronimo Road Irvine, Ca., 92618, USA
 
#33 ·
#34 ·
Hello all, just joined the posts and have a question. I have an HP Pavillion MD5880N DLP tv and all of a sudden the other day the bottom half of the screen turned into pixelated longitudinal rectangles. We were watching TV and all of a sudden, BOOM, there is the SNAFU. I was still partially able to see the "picture" behind it and the top half of the screen was completely fine. I took the back off (unplugged of course) to see if a fan was not working and everything I could see was fine, all of the fans were working and there was minimal dust. I did the "error code" check and it turned out fine. Checked the connections to the HDMI and Component inputs and got no change in picture. Interesting though that when I slowly pulled out the green component video cable (blue and red had no difference in regards to the problem) the screen went to normal for just an instant. I am confounded and don't want to pay anybody to just replace a component when I can do it myself. Any ideas? I have attached a picture of what it looks like. Feel free to email me at bacchus dot winez at gmail dot com. Thanks for any help you can offer! -z
 
#35 ·
Something in the video processing chain of circuits as it only affects a portion of the image would be my guess. I'm sure HP would say a LE change out would be in order unless there is a service document on it.


Those were not a popular TV and guessing on it's age it might be hard to get replacement parts for it.
 
#37 ·
Hey Bacchus,


I've got the same exact problem with my HP mD5880. Happened just a few days ago. What a coincidence that are TVs are failing the same way within months of each other. One other symptom that you didn't mention is that my white rectangles are visible even after turning the TV off. There is a shutdown period after pressing the off button where the lamp is still on and the fans are still whirring. Normally the screen is dark during this period but for me, the white rectangles are still there until the TV completely shuts off.


I wish I had a better idea as to where to look for the problem. The HP service manual only shows a main board and the light engine for controlling the image. The white color of the rectangles indicates a bunch of DMD mirrors stuck on. The "half screen" effect to me indicates a digital failure of some sort. I'm thinking something maybe in the addressing of the individual mirrors of the DMD? How is this done? I'm wondering if it could be something simple like a corroded connector carrying the drive signals. Worse would be one of an array of drive amplifiers.


I'm already looking at a new LED/LCD display but I may poke around the inside of my old HP like you before doing that.
 
#38 ·
Hey all just chiming in here. I have a Mitsubishi WD-62628 that gave me some trouble when I got it off of someone (it was free no worries). The left half and only the exact left half of the screen was showing corruption where there were a lot of pink and green blobs of color. I started poking around inside and comparing to some parts online of some of the boards I noticed the ATI Xcellion (sp?) chip on mine didn't have a heatsink. Well... I put a large one on it and the problem went away for several months. Sadly though it popped up again the other day on me
I am assuming the main board 934C152004 needs to be replaced on it since I cant really do much with the chip that is bad past what I did to keep it cool. I tried to put a heatsink with a fan on it but still no luck. I lucked out and have a filler TV in place until I can afford a better one (a returned Westinghouse 55" 1080p 120Hz marked down to $270).


I seen a Used board on ebay for $125 but I was leery since it was used
and more than likely I'd be due for a new bulb soon enough.


Anyone ran in to problems like this? I thought about trying to do a reflow of that chip with some flux and a heatgun, or possibly even trying to protect the plastic on it and caps and stick it in the oven



Otherwise I might part it out if someone needs parts from it to repair theirs.
 
#42 ·
Just trying to revive this thread...



And maybe see if there is hope for my '08 Samsung HL51A650C DLP? I've been TRYING to repair it, seen in this link with UPDATES at the end:

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1034803/2008-samsung-hlxxa650-dlp-owners-thread-faq/810#post_23129157


Seems like I keep throwing money at this thing!!!
MAYBE someone that's worked on these and actually got one fixed or KNOWS the steps to repair this Oh TOO OFTEN problem, will chime in here and tell me what I'm doing wrong?





Daniel
 
#43 ·
Here's the video of the TV "acting up" before the parts swap last weekend...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jGe6AkTLGPQ


If you listen VERY close (because I used crappy iPhone instead of the REAL video camera!) you'll hear the initial power on "click" follwed by the start-up melody, then see the light "TRY" to ignite, but then fail. Then the fans are ALWAYS spinning. All 3 of them, even though only 2 are visible here. Then, it repeats, all of this in 1 minute video.




Daniel
 
#44 ·
Cross posted from http://www.avsforum.com/t/1463454/official-samsung-pnxxf8500-series-discussion-thread-no-street-price-talk/3800_100#post_23251820


Samsung signed a Capacitor Settlement Agreement March 2, 2012 and it allows 18 months from that date to file a claim. If you have one of the covered sets that was manufactured prior to December 31, 2008 and are in the US you are covered by the settlement. The settlement allowed for repair, reimbursement, or $300 for the old set. The replacement boards are no longer available for DLPs so Samsung has been offering out of warranty exchange with a fee to DLP owners covered by the settlement. I do not have any information that this extends to LCD and Plasma models covered by the agreement. It may or may not.


Three weeks ago I received a PN60F8500 delivered in exchange for my 56" HL-T5689S DLP and $1500. I have chronicled my experience in the 2007 Samsung LED Owner's Thread (HLT XX87/89S) forum at post http://www.avsforum.com/t/827799/2007-samsung-led-owners-thread-hlt-xx87-89s/14300_100#post_23159257 . If you have a covered set I strongly suggest that you read that post and all my later posts.


Bad capacitors may be causing problems that you have not noticed. To file a claim, you do not have to have a problem only swollen capacitors and maybe not even that according to a reading of the agreement by someone more versed in it than I am.


I do not know if the forums for other covered sets have the information that I have posted here. I do not have time to investigate or spread the word. Hopefully, others will do that while there is still time to file a claim.


Jim Walker

http://www.samsung.com/us/capacitorsettlement/ is shown below.

Go to that page for links to details.




Mitsubishi has a similar settlement. See http://www.avsforum.com/t/1310024/problems-with-a-older-tv-new-isnt-always-better-try-repairing-it-first/0_100#post_21820806
 
#45 ·
THANK YOU, Jim!!! I will check this out...!!!
Maybe, just maybe they'll at least help me fix it, if not help cover some of the repair costs I've spent on this huge paper weight?


Regardless, I again Thank You for replying to what I thought was a dead/dying thread here.





Daniel
 
#46 ·
Ehhh... I looked at the listed models associated with the suit with Samsung. And the DLP I'm having troubles with is HL61A650C. (Even though I listed it as a 51" in a previous post!) This class action suit doesn't apply to the 2008 650C models.


Thanks for posting the info anyway, Jim!!





Daniel
 
#47 ·
Talk about futher resurrecting an old thread- I have a Panasonic CRT - can't even find a date or model # on it - has to be on the back of the TV somewhere (it's inside a really heavy entertainment center so just haven't dug around enough back there to locate a number yet). I'm thinking at least 20 years old. Worked great until just last night when the picture had some lines in it - figured some sort of outside interference but then it got worse. Sometimes no picture at all, other times very scrambled even to the point of there only being a very small "picture" (if you could even describe it as such). Now...if I hit it almost anywhere near the back - it usually straightens out and is fine again. After a few good whacks (the old "percussive maintenance"!) it worked fine the rest of the evening. So, without going into my propensity to try and fix and hang on to older appliances, etc., is it worth it to explore this further? The voltages inside these things are a bit scary so at the most all I'd probably be willing to do is open up the back (no idea how to even do that as of yet) and maybe look for anything loose, blow out some dirt with an a/c? Any suggestions...or...of course buy a new smart tv. Problem is that I'd be looking for 26-27". It seems like the industry has gotten away from that - you either buy 24 or 32. Not enough room in the cabinet for 32 and 24 is just a bit small for the space I have available in the cabinet.
 
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