2011 Mitsubishi DLP WD-73640 official thread - Page 13 - AVS Forum
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post #361 of 1880 Old 12-05-2011, 04:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 69mach1-377 View Post

When you powered on, what came up on the screen? White noise?

No, the Mitsubishi setup screen. Oh and it had a Manufactured Dated of October 2011.

Mitsubishi WD-73640 3D DLP HDTV | Pioneer VSX-1121-K 7.2 A/V Receiver | BIC America Formula F-12 Sub | JBL Studio 190x2 , 180x2, 130x2 (Rear Surrounds), 120c Speakers | Intel DX58SO | I7 975 @ 3.3Ghz | Windows 8.1 64bit
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post #362 of 1880 Old 12-05-2011, 04:19 PM
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OK, so you can actually look for defects against a nice background?
I think mine is in town, I have a message saying my 'speakers' are in...uh, oh.
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post #363 of 1880 Old 12-05-2011, 05:38 PM
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I got white noise then picure via hdmi. I think it auto-scans on power on.
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post #364 of 1880 Old 12-05-2011, 06:34 PM
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2 problems:

#1. 1920x1080 (or any resolution) thru my DVI-HDMI on my PC seems to be bigger than the TV, in other words it doesnt fit my screen, it over fits it if you know what I mean.

I can only see the very top of Windows "Taskbar" and the minimize/maximize/close icons are cut-off.

#2. No http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/TOSLINK

Or Digital Audio Connection. This was my workaround for Surround sound on my devices. I think I may have to get a new receiver that supports HDMI.

Well, it has one, but it looks like an RCA connection.

Mitsubishi WD-73640 3D DLP HDTV | Pioneer VSX-1121-K 7.2 A/V Receiver | BIC America Formula F-12 Sub | JBL Studio 190x2 , 180x2, 130x2 (Rear Surrounds), 120c Speakers | Intel DX58SO | I7 975 @ 3.3Ghz | Windows 8.1 64bit
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post #365 of 1880 Old 12-05-2011, 08:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkeener71 View Post

2 problems:

#1. 1920x1080 (or any resolution) thru my DVI-HDMI on my PC seems to be bigger than the TV, in other words it doesnt fit my screen, it over fits it if you know what I mean.

I can only see the very top of Windows "Taskbar" and the minimize/maximize/close icons are cut-off.

#2. No http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/TOSLINK

Or Digital Audio Connection. This was my workaround for Surround sound on my devices. I think I may have to get a new receiver that supports HDMI.

Well, it has one, but it looks like an RCA connection.

I REALLY fixed #1. Wow, forget what I posted earlier. Hitting the Format Button on the Remote Control corrected the screen perfectly and I can do 1920x1080. And I must say it looks much better than my Sammy.

Still might need some help with #2.

Mitsubishi WD-73640 3D DLP HDTV | Pioneer VSX-1121-K 7.2 A/V Receiver | BIC America Formula F-12 Sub | JBL Studio 190x2 , 180x2, 130x2 (Rear Surrounds), 120c Speakers | Intel DX58SO | I7 975 @ 3.3Ghz | Windows 8.1 64bit
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post #366 of 1880 Old 12-05-2011, 09:45 PM
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My TV the Fresnel was little out and I just slid my finger along the bevel and let it slide in. After reading earlier posts I am little concerned and I was not originally. I don't have desire to mess with it because I bought it for 3D experimentation and don't have any choice of sending it back etc. Can anyone post video or link where someone is tightening the screws to make the bevel snug with screen. Otherwise all is above my expectation.
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post #367 of 1880 Old 12-05-2011, 09:52 PM
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Considering this model but cant find any reviews showing calibrated
contrast & black level numbers.

Also cant seem to find one locally to check out. trying to decide if the matte
or clear screen model would be best to go with.
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post #368 of 1880 Old 12-06-2011, 12:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GEP View Post

The sub-frame system is the way the DLP chip works and not unique to Mitsubishi. It is the design of the chip by Texas Instruments. It provides for a very smooth picture with little to no visible pixel structure and a smaller, less expensive chip that only requires ½ the number of mirrors.

Thanks GEP, excellent info!

I believe this technique is also referred to as "wobulation". Some more info here:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wobulation
I think this technique works well in practice, and doesn't have the same downsides as traditional interlacing. However I also think it is misleading for Mitsubishi to advertise this as if it is a feature, i.e. "Smooth120". I fell for it myself. When I saw 120Hz in the specs, I assumed that this was a 120Hz TV. It really isn't. I'm pretty sure it still has to apply 3:2 pulldown for 24p content.

I just got my 73640 today, and here are some observations. Overall I have mixed feelings about it. On the upside, it does have a nice picture, and in terms of bang-for-the-buck it can't be beat. However, my impression is that this TV was specifically engineered to give maximum screen inches per dollar, so quality and features were sacrificed to achieve that design goal.

Cost cutting measures:
- Remote is very basic, only controls TV, no backlight. Get a Harmony.
- TV has very limited input and output connections.
- Built-in speakers are not very good.
- Screen mounting mechanism is crap.

I think most of the screen issues that have been discussed in this thread are due to a poor design, not the fault of the delivery guys. Looking at my screen, there is uneven spacing between the bezel and screen along the sides and top. If I push on edge of the screen with my finger, it deflects very easily and is not securely attached to the bezel. There is enough inconsistency on the right edge that image distortion is noticeable. Tightening the screws on the back of the bezel will not correct this problem. I peeked inside and it is constructed like this:
1) Screen is attached to the bezel via internal screws. There are internal mounting strips (for lack of a better word) which are screwed into the back of the bezel, sandwiching the screen between the strips and the bezel.
2) The bezel is then attached to the frame via the externally accessible screws. These screws only attach the bezel to the frame of TV, and do not secure the screen to the bezel.
The source of the problem is item 1. The screen is not secured tightly or uniformly between the mounting strips and bezel.

For comparison, I also have a JVC LCoS RPTV. On that TV, the screen is much more rigid, and is perfectly attached to the bezel with no gaps or distortions. It is obviously a higher quality screen assembly. Granted the JVC cost twice what the Mitsubishi did, but in my opinion there still no excuse for such a poor screen mounting design in the Mitsubishi. In my case it does cause some distortion of the picture. In my case it's fairly minor, and some people wouldn't notice it, but it's definitely there.

I'm also disappointed with the quality of the built-in speakers. One advantage of a thick TV like this is that there is room for decent speakers. In comparison, my old JVC has much better audio quality. Mitsubishi also complicates the ability to add external speakers by only providing a coax digital audio out. No analog or optical audio out. You have to upgrade all the way to the 840 series to get analog audio outputs.

My TV has a build date of Nov 2011, and came with firmware ver 13.04, which is the latest version at this time.

There is a problem with handling of Dolby Digital audio on the HDMI inputs. I have a Tivo HD connected directly via HDMI. Whenever I change channels, and often when I pause or fast forward, I get a brief static-like noise in the audio. Changing the Tivo to output PCM instead of Dolby Digital cures the problem. I've never had this issue with any other TV.

Power consumption is good for a TV of this size, but not quite as good as I expected. With the lamp set to the normal 156 watt mode, my TV draws about 206 watts, so the non-lamp parts of the TV draw about 50 watts. Note also that it continues to draw 25 watts or so for about 10 min after you turn it off, even after the lamp and fans are off. Not sure what it's doing. It eventually settles down to 1 watt at idle.

Fan noise is much less than on my JVC. I think very few people will find it objectionable.

Black level is noticeably better than on my old JVC. Otherwise I don't think there's a huge difference in PQ. I didn't compare side-by side though.

This TV sucks a a computer monitor, as probably all RPTVs do. There is lots of overscan, so the edges of the PC screen get cut off, unless you switch to PC mode which scales the image down. The geometry imperfections are noticeable, and text is not very sharp. Suffice it to say that if you want to use your TV as a computer monitor very often, then you are probably better off with an LCD.

I don't mean to be too negative here. I do still think this is a good TV, and a very good one for the money. There is no "perfect" TV technology. I just think Mitsubishi cut a few too many corners on quality. Personally I would have been happier if it cost a little more but had better speakers and screen mounting.
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post #369 of 1880 Old 12-06-2011, 12:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkeener71 View Post


#2. No http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/TOSLINK

Or Digital Audio Connection. This was my workaround for Surround sound on my devices. I think I may have to get a new receiver that supports HDMI.

Well, it has one, but it looks like an RCA connection.

It has a digital audio output, it just uses a coaxial connector instead of optical (TOSLINK). If you receiver doesn't have coax digital audio in, then yes you will need to upgrade.
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post #370 of 1880 Old 12-06-2011, 03:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spocko View Post

It has a digital audio output, it just uses a coaxial connector instead of optical (TOSLINK). If you receiver doesn't have coax digital audio in, then yes you will need to upgrade.

You could also buy a $12 - $20 adapter as an alternative to replacing your receiver

Coax to optical if the issue is your receiver only has optical in ?
Example:
http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2

http://www.amazon.com/Coaxial-Optica...3173113&sr=1-5

Another:
http://www.amazon.com/Cables-Go-Coax.../ref=pd_cp_e_1
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post #371 of 1880 Old 12-06-2011, 04:54 AM
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I just found these diagrams that may be useful for those who may get stuck with a set they need to fix themselves. It also sheds some light on how the lenticular should be seated

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/part...&prst=&shdMod=

http://c.searspartsdirect.com/lis_pn...8916-00001.png
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post #372 of 1880 Old 12-06-2011, 06:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spocko View Post


This TV sucks a a computer monitor, as probably all RPTVs do. There is lots of overscan, so the edges of the PC screen get cut off, unless you switch to PC mode which scales the image down. The geometry imperfections are noticeable, and text is not very sharp. Suffice it to say that if you want to use your TV as a computer monitor very often, then you are probably better off with an LCD.

#1 You have to set in Nvidia Control Panel and set it to Overscan, Apply, reboot. If that doesn't change it to fitting everything on screen, use the format button on the remote

#2 I thought text was blurry too till I discovered that this is where Sharpness setting on the TV came into play, adjusted that and it was clear as any monitor.

#3 for the short time I had it hooked up to my gaming pc, I had the most kills in every BF3 game I played.(7) Those little snipers in the distance, weren't so little anymore. My kill rate went from .50 to 3.

#4 They did not "skimp" on any features of this TV for the Low Entry level that it is. It has same light engine as all the other models with the lack of Clear Contrast screen(82/92840 and laservue only), built in IR emitter/internet. You have the same ADV settings to adjust colors as others do. Even the other "special settings" of the 740 series are in the service menu.

#5 The last thing you should concern yourself with is the speakers. With cheap in the box surround sound systems out there for $300, they will beat your 8-12 year old Pioneer or whatever with TOS link. I know, because I had to let my badass Pioneer go with the Dinosaurs. And am I glad I did.

Listen, you all bought a cheap TV. Don't bitch about sound when you got the TV for half of what I paid for it 4 months ago. I went out and bought a Sony DH-520 7.1 Receiver for $179 at BB. Turn off HDMI control and AutoStandby and this has been one of the better receivers I have owned. This receiver handles all HDMI and 3D. Did I say 7.1 too? Toss your old badass and the TOS LINK out. Its not worth keeping. Specially after hearing DD True 7.1 HD.

Buy a $700 TV and bitch about sound, UNREAL. Should have heard the sound on the 54VT25 I paid $2100. It was WORSE. I am gonna go cool off now, makes me pissed when people say stupid crap like that.

Cool Beans.
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post #373 of 1880 Old 12-06-2011, 06:16 AM
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I have to agree with most of your comments DRAVEN. The overscan issue is easily fixed and the picture settings in ADV are excellent. I am still tweaking to my taste but very good results so far. Independent RGB cutoffs, gamma values, etc. Why anyone would care about the speakers on a Tv this size is completely counter-intuitive to me. Also the comments on the TV having issues with TIVO are in my opinion most likely an HDMI issue with the Tivo box.

You can buy a Pioneer VSX1021 7 channel HDMI 1.4a switching / scaling amp for $299 . Just a thought
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post #374 of 1880 Old 12-06-2011, 08:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spocko View Post

Cost cutting measures:
- Remote is very basic, only controls TV, no backlight. Get a Harmony.
- TV has very limited input and output connections.
- Built-in speakers are not very good.

You didnt know this before you bought?
The 640 is barebones television.
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post #375 of 1880 Old 12-06-2011, 09:00 AM
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Like some of you I bought the 73640 on Grey Thursday from BestBuy for $699. I called Pilot on Friday when tracking said "RECOVERED AT DESTINATION" and scheduled the delivery for Monday. They called Monday morning to confirm and delivered at the time they said they would. Two guys brought up the box and asked if I had something to put on the carpet so the box doesn't mess up the carpet, and they put booties over their shoes so not to track in dirt (very nice). I read on this forum the issues people were having and even a friend of ours ordered the same TV and received it (broken mirror with a detached bezel). I asked them if it was ok if I tried out the TV first before I signed and that it would only take a minute because I have a cable and extension cord ready. They said that was fine and brought in the HUGE box and placed it in the living room and opened the box up. One of the guys even put the batteries in the remote while I plugged in the cable lol. Well, like other users have mentioned the power light blinked real fast when I pressed power and nothing came on. Then I pressed it again and the big screen came alive with the blue Mitsubishi logo and then directv was on. I looked at the bezel and it was perfectly in place. I said great, signed the paper and gave them a tip and said thanks. They were nice guys.

The TV was manufactured Nov 2011 and came with the 13.04 firmware. I had bought 3d glasses from Dimensional Optics (Two pair with an IR transmitter for $160 shipped). The thing is fantastic. I turned on the 3d and directv box instantly saw it was 3d ready and watched some bball on ESPN3D. I put Batman: Arkham City in the XBox and enabled 3D and wow.... just a different experience then 2D. Later we watched my wife's favorite Disney movie Beauty & the Beast 3DBluray and it was very cool. Overall I'm loving this.
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post #376 of 1880 Old 12-06-2011, 09:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by calimark View Post

You didnt know this before you bought?
The 640 is barebones television.

If you buy a 73" TV then you should already have some sort of equipment to make up for it's "limitations." In my case:

Harmony One remote
Denon 4311CI with 7.2 enabled
About 5 devices all web enabled to go onto anything I want (Hulu, Amazon, Netflix, Accuweather, etc)

If the screen came surrounded by a big fugly box that people look at and can comment about then yea, that I would call a barebone move, but I'm sure they are taking into consideration of what market is buying a 73" 3D television.
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post #377 of 1880 Old 12-06-2011, 09:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by calimark View Post

I got white noise then picure via hdmi. I think it auto-scans on power on.

I won't have a tv signal ready when they bring it into the house, unless I hook up a player of some sort.
So white noise if you choose antenna without one hooked up?
Otherwise, a set up screen?
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post #378 of 1880 Old 12-06-2011, 09:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 69mach1-377 View Post

I won't have a tv signal ready when they bring it into the house, unless I hook up a player of some sort.
So white noise if you choose antenna without one hooked up?
Otherwise, a set up screen?

Got a Blu-ray player and HDMI cable?
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post #379 of 1880 Old 12-06-2011, 09:23 AM
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Yeah, but how much patience will the delivery guys have while I futz around...
If the signature rules were such, we'd all know what equipment everyone has.
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post #380 of 1880 Old 12-06-2011, 09:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 69mach1-377 View Post

Yeah, but how much patience will the delivery guys have while I futz around...
If the signature rules were such, we'd all know what equipment everyone has.

I guess I would not think having a blu ray player plugged in before they arrive and sticking an HDMI cable into the back of the set would take too long.

Sorry if that is not a good suggestion.
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post #381 of 1880 Old 12-06-2011, 10:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YukonXL View Post

If you buy a 73" TV then you should already have some sort of equipment to make up for it's "limitations." In my case:

Harmony One remote
Denon 4311CI with 7.2 enabled
About 5 devices all web enabled to go onto anything I want (Hulu, Amazon, Netflix, Accuweather, etc)

If the screen came surrounded by a big fugly box that people look at and can comment about then yea, that I would call a barebone move, but I'm sure they are taking into consideration of what market is buying a 73" 3D television.

???? Are you saying this is not a barebones television?
This is a barebones television by today's normal offerings.
Is that a bad thing? Absolutely not for me. I have never used a TV to go on the internet, nor have I ever used the built in speakers that comes with one.
heck I could do without 3 HDMI connectors and the other crap on the back taking up real estate.
Remote is junk, but who uses the manufacturers remote to control the tv- only folks watching OTA.

The original poster listed those as complaints, but they shouldnt be! Its very clear those things arent present.


Quote:


Yeah, but how much patience will the delivery guys have while I futz around...
If the signature rules were such, we'd all know what equipment everyone has.

Not sure what you are worried about. Shipper is responsible for visible damages, so don't sign until you inspect. Being able to power on while they wait is a bonus.

I didnt select anything on my tv. I power on, got snow, and then 2 sconds later it locked on the HDMI. Beats me why I didnt see Mistu screen.

If you dont have HDMI handy, you can always plug in a rabbit ears. Everything OTA is HD
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post #382 of 1880 Old 12-06-2011, 03:01 PM
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Is there a way to turn off the blue screen with mitsubishi on it that appears during power up and down?

TIA!
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post #383 of 1880 Old 12-06-2011, 03:09 PM
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If you mean the Welcome screen, no. The TV needs to boot up the internal computer and the Welcome screen is there to fill the time. Without it the screen would be blank for the same amount of time. In short the Welcome screen does not delay seeing a picture, it just fills the time until the TV can show the picture.
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post #384 of 1880 Old 12-06-2011, 03:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GEP View Post

If you mean the Welcome screen, no. The TV needs to boot up the internal computer and the Welcome screen is there to fill the time. Without it the screen would be blank for the same amount of time. In short the Welcome screen does not delay seeing a picture, it just fills the time until the TV can show the picture.

Thanks for the info. IMO I would prefer a blank screen. No big deal.
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post #385 of 1880 Old 12-06-2011, 04:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Empirical View Post

I just found these diagrams that may be useful for those who may get stuck with a set they need to fix themselves. It also sheds some light on how the lenticular should be seated

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/part...&prst=&shdMod=

http://c.searspartsdirect.com/lis_pn...8916-00001.png

EXCELLENT FIND!!!!!!

Thanks alot for posting that!

Anyone try this yet?

1 Mitsubishi WD-82642 82" TV
1 Onkyo TX-NR929 11.4 setup
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post #386 of 1880 Old 12-06-2011, 04:24 PM
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Just took delivery. Opened box to make sure of no physical damages but did not install set just yet. Like most here, I concur on the frame not being fully attached to the bezel.

Issues with mine are across the top, running my finger I feel around a 1/4" gap between the screen and the bezel for the entire horizontal area across the top. Also, can easily push in the upper right corner even further than that with an extreme light touch (only about 1 inch or so down the right side and across the top).

Left, right, and bottom all seem to be flush with the bezel.

Interestingly enough, the previous model of this set, which I already own, the 73738, also has a small gap across the top between screen and bezel and I can tell it's not attached. Never even noticed that before, though the gap is not as severe.

Seems we have a quality issue with the screens attaching to bezels in this model, no doubt about it.

Didn't seem severe enough for me to refuse delivery, in fact who knows if I'll even notice when I connect the set, but curious to hear what others decide to do.
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post #387 of 1880 Old 12-06-2011, 04:39 PM
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I have a 3 year old WD-65736. It's the 2008 Mits RPTV model. And that screen is snug as hell all the way around. But I do have a slight gap at the top of my screen on my new WD-73640. It's not really bad at all. It's just a tad bit loose. It could just be tightened up just a hair. So since mine's not that bad, it just kind of rests against the bezel. When the set came in, the screen had actually wedged itself underneath the top part of the tv. I was like AW #@#@! It popped right back in NP. And the picture looks great. Looks ALOT better than my 3 year old RPTV. So I am glad I upgraded, especially considering it was only 700 bucks. I don't think it would help picture wise to have it completely snug but who knows for sure.

1 Mitsubishi WD-82642 82" TV
1 Onkyo TX-NR929 11.4 setup
2 Emotiva XPA-5's
1 Emotiva XPA-100
1 Definitive Technology CLR 3000 (Center)
2 Definitive Technology BP2004TL's (Mains)
2 Definitive Technology ProMonitor 1000's (Heights)
6 Definitive Technology BPX's (Rears Wides Sides)
4 CHT VS-18.1 Subs
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post #388 of 1880 Old 12-06-2011, 07:14 PM
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I do sort of wonder if it's worth fussing over. I won't know for sure until I lug the set upstairs and find a way to set it up next to my 73738 and pull up the test grids to see which geometry is worse.

I suppose there's a way to take this apart and use some 2-sided tape to flush the screen with the bezel but that seems like a heck of a lot of work (and not something I expect Mitsubishi's tech service calls will cover).

I was secretly hoping that my set had a flush tight screen but given the track record it's not a surprise. Could be a combination of build quality or the way these were stored.

My pilot freight local delivery company had the tv strapped tight in the back of a delivery truck, though that of course doesn't mean it still couldn't have been shaken around. He put it on a hand truck and carefully lowered it down and rolled it into the garage. So no delivery mistreatment I can cite here. Plus, let's face it, these things aren't teleported from the factory to our homes. They have to be built to handle some light travel.

Build date of my set is October 2011 btw. Other than the give in the upper right corner (small 1"x1" area) and the gap across pretty much the entire top, it looks good.

Once I get it hooked up I can post back, especially considering I have the opportunity to run it side by side with my 73738.
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post #389 of 1880 Old 12-06-2011, 07:38 PM
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It probably settles during all the shipping...
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post #390 of 1880 Old 12-06-2011, 08:26 PM
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A trick I thought of that some of you could do is to take a suction cup and pull on the affected areas to see if it improves the look of the content of the screen. I'd try it out but my TV's not that bad at all. I think my TV will be fine as it is thankfully.

1 Mitsubishi WD-82642 82" TV
1 Onkyo TX-NR929 11.4 setup
2 Emotiva XPA-5's
1 Emotiva XPA-100
1 Definitive Technology CLR 3000 (Center)
2 Definitive Technology BP2004TL's (Mains)
2 Definitive Technology ProMonitor 1000's (Heights)
6 Definitive Technology BPX's (Rears Wides Sides)
4 CHT VS-18.1 Subs
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