2011 Mitsubishi DLP WD-73640 official thread - Page 25 - AVS Forum
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post #721 of 1887 Old 01-14-2012, 01:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CSOCSO View Post

So in the last two days i just started to notice some brightness flickering/strobing on the tv

I was watching a video from WDTV via Yamaha receiver ( hdmi to the receiver and from there hdmi to the tv)

Really got me worried but i hope its just the hdmi cable. Im going back to see if i have the same problem with the xbox or not.

Btw how do i check how many hours i watched the tv?

Can you describe this "brightness flickering/strobing" in more detail? Is it the rainbow effect? Does it occur in very dark scenes with bright elements? Is it a large area, like 6 inches or a foot across? Just want to know what to look for, thanks.

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post #722 of 1887 Old 01-14-2012, 02:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Seraphic- View Post

I don't notice real major flaws in geometry (or maybe I'm not sure what to look for?).

The TV is delivered with geometry flaws digitally corrected, a feature called geometry correction, with scales the source image in the reverse direction of the geometry flaws. Which means that in some areas, what was a detailed image made up of X by Y pixels is squished into a smaller area of pixels, say X-10 by Y-10, resulting is loss of detail. - and in other areas, the reverse: small areas of pixels are spread out across larger areas of pixels.

You cannot tell if you have major geometry flaws in the screen without turning off geometry correction. Which is done:

MENU, 2, 4, 5, 7 (service menu appears), 0 (another menu appears), scroll down to MANUAL GEOMETRY ALIGNMENT, ENTER (corrected geometry graph appears). Then press 1 to clear the geometry correction, and enter to save that setting or EXIT to retain the factory set correction. Or you fiddle yourself with the correction settings (I'd have to look the keys up.)

I turn mine off, and get minor outward bowing on either side, at the bottom. Off is also know as 1-to-1 pixel mapping.

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post #723 of 1887 Old 01-14-2012, 02:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by innatetech View Post


I'm fairly certain mine has some issues

Are you referring to geometry issues only, or other issues as well? Thanks.

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post #724 of 1887 Old 01-14-2012, 03:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thhowl View Post

MENU, 2, 4, 5, 7 (service menu appears), 0 (another menu appears), scroll down to MANUAL GEOMETRY ALIGNMENT, ENTER (corrected geometry graph appears). Then press 1 to clear the geometry correction, and enter to save that setting or EXIT to retain the factory set correction. Or you fiddle yourself with the correction settings (I'd have to look the keys up.)

I turn mine off, and get minor outward bowing on either side, at the bottom. Off is also know as 1-to-1 pixel mapping.

I seeing very slight bowing on the left and top, bottom and right seem good.

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post #725 of 1887 Old 01-14-2012, 05:57 PM
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Hey Don! GREAT POST!!! Do you have a list of these commands, and what they do???? Thanks Again!
Jan

Quote:
Originally Posted by Don_Healey View Post

Press MENU and then enter 2,4,7,0


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post #726 of 1887 Old 01-14-2012, 09:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thhowl View Post

The TV is delivered with geometry flaws digitally corrected, a feature called geometry correction, with scales the source image in the reverse direction of the geometry flaws. Which means that in some areas, what was a detailed image made up of X by Y pixels is squished into a smaller area of pixels, says. X-10 by Y-10, resulting is loss of detail. - and in other areas, the reverse: small areas of pixels are spread out across larger areas of pixels.

You cannot tell if you have major geometry flaws in the screen without turning off geometry correction. Which is done:

MENU, 2, 4, 5, 7 (service menu appears), 0 (another menu appears), scroll down to MANUAL GEOMETRY ALIGNMENT, ENTER (corrected geometry graph appears). Then press 1 to clear the geometry correction, and enter to save that setting or EXIT to retain the factory set correction. Or you fiddle yourself with the correction settings (I'd have to look the keys up.)

I turn mine off, and get minor outward bowing on either side, at the bottom. Off is also know as 1-to-1 pixel mapping.

Thanks for posting that.

I get minor bowing also. Any idea how to correct that?

Thanks again.

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post #727 of 1887 Old 01-15-2012, 06:10 AM
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I haven't bothered to turn off geometry correction, because I don't have any distortion that I can measure with a crosshatch pattern created, and burned to BRay.

Now this was a hot item on the 62525 forum.... and I had it on that model... But, it's something that can be dealt with without great pain...

On the 62525, you could alter the geometry by pushing on the base or display.... Which allowed you to put a towel or washcloth under the base on one side or other, front to back, and eliminate the geometry errors without getting in and adjusting the geometry bolts holding the chassis relative to the mirror...on that model. Be thankful you have settings!
You could also grab the top left and right of the screen and carefully 'warp' it, and it would stay that way.... and eliminate some geometry as well.

I haven't tried this on the 73640, because I don't need to... Geometry is great... IF I saw geometry issues, I'd first try verifying the floor or base is not warping the way the display is sitting, and remember the towel/washcloth method to make the display correct.

As an addendum to this..... I'm using the base of the 62525 as the support for the 73640, in the same location, so the base wasn't passing on any un-even-ness from the floor to the set..... I'm just believing that the 73640 display and enclosure has less 'flex' than the 62525 did!

I'm pleased with the pix quality of the 73640 over the 62525......

I am noticing an occasional DCT Blocking on 720P edges after long dissolve transitions, but believe it or not, I know it's NOT the MPEG converter at the station in question, as I work at a competing station, and I'm not seeing this on our 720P signal.... I called them, and they and station I work for are both using the same Manufacturer's Model MPEG Converter. (My specialty is not MPEG settings, so I as in the dark as any other end user with regard to this issue--How about that for honesty?)

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post #728 of 1887 Old 01-15-2012, 07:39 AM
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Well after a month of viewing and 'burn in', probably 300 hours or so, I used a DVD with the THX optimizer on my bluray player. I was surprised with some of the settings required but am very pleased with the results.
I know there are newer bluray tools out there now, but even this made an improvement. It didn't take very long either.

And now I can't edit the title to spell it correctly...
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post #729 of 1887 Old 01-15-2012, 09:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jan J View Post

I haven't bothered to turn off geometry correction, because I don't have any distortion that I can measure with a crosshatch pattern created, and burned to BRay.

Geometry correction being ON is why you see no distortion.

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post #730 of 1887 Old 01-15-2012, 09:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 69mach1-377 View Post

Well after a month of viewing and 'burn in', probably 300 hours or so, I used a DVD with the THX optimizer on my bluray player. I was surprised with some of the settings required but am very pleased with the results.
I know there are newer bluray tools out there now, but even this made an improvement. It didn't take very long either.

And now I can't edit the title to spell it correctly...

I wonder what surprising settings you speak of. I've used dozens of test charts on it, and Normal with default contrast and brightness were best. My tint was a little greenish, so I did bump it toward magenta 2 notches, but that was before the bulb burnt in.

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post #731 of 1887 Old 01-16-2012, 07:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thhowl View Post

I wonder what surprising settings you speak of. I've used dozens of test charts on it, and Normal with default contrast and brightness were best. My tint was a little greenish, so I did bump it toward magenta 2 notches, but that was before the bulb burnt in.

Not surprising were:
color temp = low
video noise = off
picture mode = natural

A little surprising were;
contrast = 50
brightness = 38
color = 39
tint = 34
sharpness = 27

Without the color/tint glasses, my judgement of red, cyan and magenta were subjective of course. I did not go into the advanced settings at all. Then there was the 'how much ambient light is normal' question, as we sometimes have a light on or off, depending.
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post #732 of 1887 Old 01-16-2012, 09:09 AM
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My 73640 has arrived at the local sort facility... but I still have to wait for AIT to call/email in order to set up a delivery day/time.... the wait is killing me!!!

*Sorry for the useless post... just had to vent.
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post #733 of 1887 Old 01-16-2012, 10:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GEP View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by jkeener71
GEP,

Thanks for all your Compter to TV input/info.

So would you say naming the input to "PC" is the recommended option? Works better?

Also why the heck do TVs have all the overscan? Wouldn't it make more sense for the native resolution be 1920 x 1080 and maintain 1:1 pixel matching.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------

No naming the input PC would not make a better picture if your source is antenna, cable, satellite or Blu-ray. PC is only applical to a PC as a source - computer video is not the same as video from broadcast or disc players. The two worlds have not merged fully yet. Naming the input PC only allows the TV to accept resolutions that only PCs supply and to process the image in the format that PC normally use.

"Also why the heck do TVs have all the overscan? Wouldn't it make more sense for the native resolution be 1920 x 1080 and maintain 1:1 pixel matching."

This is not a flat panel with direct view of each pixel, it is a projection of the entire image through a lens, off a mirror and through a screen assembly. It is impossible for a perfect fit projection (one with no overscan) that lasts, without adjustments, all of the stresses of shipment, variances of manufacture, expansion/contraction of temperature, etc and still be affordable and the benefit would not be worth the extra cost. By the way all CRT TVs had overscan as well and no one notice until they tried to display a computer image.

Except for computer generated images, there really is almost nothing important in the overscan area. TV/Video sources have something called safe zones that are well inside the overscan area and the editors make sure all of the important information is in the area. Movies also make sure nothing of importance is in the 5% of boarder areas because of movie theater overscan. Remember even movie theaters use overscan. Directors and movie cinematographers do understand this concept and observe the limitations.

Only flat panels can have zero overscan from the factory and survive without extra adjustments. This is because you are looking directly at the illuminated pixel, not a projection of the image. If PC tool bars are most important to you, you may want to consider a flat panel. Other than tool bars, most PC windows can be sized to fit easily and when watching motion video full screen from a PC you really are not losing any important information. By the way most flat panels have electronic overscan available which scales the image larger. This is because so many sources have problematic artifacts on the edges of the image.

I watch Blu-ray movies on my computer using my Blu-Ray drive using PowerDVD. So what is the best input to name for my computer so I can get the best quality out of my Blu-ray movies??

Currently with the "PC" input name it seem just fine, as far as I can tell....

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post #734 of 1887 Old 01-16-2012, 11:30 AM
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Hey ---

Just realized another wonderful question:

I have a PS3, an Onkyo 605 (HDMI 1.3, I believe), and coming soon the 73640.

I assume I'm gonna have to bypass my Onkyo receiver when I want to watch 3D content? I've heard a lot of people say HDMI 1.3 cables can pass 3D just fine... but will my Onkyo 605 be able to pass the signal thru?

I could obviously test this in 5 minutes time once the TV comes and know for sure... but I'm a little anxious to find out.
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post #735 of 1887 Old 01-16-2012, 01:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JP32 View Post

Hey ---

Just realized another wonderful question:

I have a PS3, an Onkyo 605 (HDMI 1.3, I believe), and coming soon the 73640.

I assume I'm gonna have to bypass my Onkyo receiver when I want to watch 3D content? I've heard a lot of people say HDMI 1.3 cables can pass 3D just fine... but will my Onkyo 605 be able to pass the signal thru?

I could obviously test this in 5 minutes time once the TV comes and know for sure... but I'm a little anxious to find out.

There is no such thing as HDMI 1.3 cables, only High Speed and Standard Speed cables. The version number (1.3 or 1.4) applies to the hardward (TVs, Disc Players, AV Receivers, etc.) only not to the cables.
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post #736 of 1887 Old 01-16-2012, 01:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GEP View Post

There is no such thing as HDMI 1.3 cables, only High Speed and Standard Speed cables. The version number (1.3 or 1.4) applies to the hardward (TVs, Disc Players, AV Receivers, etc.) only not to the cables.

Thanks for the non-info... but that's a relatively new tactic, and when I purchased the cables I'm currently using, they were called HDMI 1.3.
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post #737 of 1887 Old 01-16-2012, 01:27 PM
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Originally Posted by JP32 View Post

Thanks for the non-info... but that's a relatively new tactic, and when I purchased the cables I'm currently using, they were called HDMI 1.3.

HDMI LLC the offical group changed the rule last year and the cables are not allow to be marked by version numbers any more. However the only change to the cables is to add eithernet communications over HDMI and those cables must be market as supporting that.

http://www.hdmi.org/news_events/index.aspx#NoticeCables
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post #738 of 1887 Old 01-16-2012, 02:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GEP View Post

HDMI LLC the offical group changed the rule last year and the cables are not allow to be marked by version numbers any more. However the only change to the cables is to add eithernet communications over HDMI and those cables must be market as supporting that.

http://www.hdmi.org/news_events/index.aspx#NoticeCables

Yes, but I was asking if the Onkyo 605 could pass thru the 3D signal. You seem to have gone off on a different subject entirely.
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post #739 of 1887 Old 01-16-2012, 03:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JP32 View Post

Yes, but I was asking if the Onkyo 605 could pass thru the 3D signal. You seem to have gone off on a different subject entirely.

I think just the 3d video will pass through fine. The audio won't though in HD format at least. I'm kind of new on 3d myself, but my AVR is about as old as yours, maybe not quite as old, and I had come to the conclusion that I can watch 3d just fine, but I will need to upgrade my AVR to be able to enjoy HD audio formats. Which to me is HUGE. I have a Yamaha rx-v663. So since I can't enjoy my audio to it's fullest extent, I'm just gonna hold off on getting glasses till I get a new AVR. Which I think I'll do this spring or summer. Your AVR needs to be able to do audio pass through I believe. Since it doesn't, the audio will stay play, but it will be downgraded to non lossless.

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post #740 of 1887 Old 01-16-2012, 04:45 PM
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Originally Posted by jkeener71 View Post

I watch Blu-ray movies on my computer using my Blu-Ray drive using PowerDVD. So what is the best input to name for my computer so I can get the best quality out of my Blu-ray movies??

Currently with the "PC" input name it seem just fine, as far as I can tell....

Yes, naming it "PC" is the best thing to do.

Next, you have a choice: watch the Blu-Ray at native resolution but with a little overscan, or watch it scaled down by PowerDVD.


For either method:

- On TV, set Format to PC1080p Standard (as opposed to PC1080p Reduced, which reduces much further than the overscan amount.)

To watch at native resolution with a little overscan:

1. NVIDIA Control Panel > "Adjust Desktop size and position".
2. On Scaling tab, set resolution to 1920x1080
3. On Size tab, uncheck "Enable desktop resizing"
4. Click apply and don't forgot to wait a little and confirm the "Are you sure you like this" dialog box.

To watch it scaled down (fit the entire movie image onto the screen):

1. NVIDIA Control Panel > "Adjust Desktop size and position".
2. On Size tab, check "Enable desktop resizing" and click Resize.
3. Bring the green arrows in, but not too far in. If location of green arrows compared to bezel is not symmetrical, (image shifted left/right or up/down), it's the TV's fault, and this is digitally correctable in the service menu: MENU, 2,4,5,7, It's HVPOS: use up and down, left and right arrows on remote while green arrows are still up. Press ENTER on remote to set. (BTW, this doesn't break 1-to-1 mapping, as the DLP chip just shifts the image by an exact number of pixels.) Notice new resolution in the Green Arrows display. Mine is 1842x1036. Was that on my 2009 65" Mits too: same amount of overscan.
4. Back on PC, On Scaling tab, change resolution to that new resolution: it'll either have "(current)" by it - which is an NVIDIA bug - or it will have a star by it. Don't forget to click apply, wait a few seconds, and confirm the "Are your sure you like this?" dialog box.

The scaled down method just described doesn't scale the Windows operating system down, it tells Windows that your resolution is that smaller resolution. The NVIDIA card then does a trick: it puts black borders around Windows' 1842x1036 image, to send a full 1920x1080 image to the TV.

ATI cards can do it too, but folks will have to look it up.

I also recommend:
- turning off geometry correction to get true 1-to-1 pixel mapping
- turning off sharpening (setting it to zero) to get the true Blu-Ray image.

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post #741 of 1887 Old 01-16-2012, 05:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 69mach1-377 View Post

Not surprising were:
color temp = low
video noise = off
picture mode = natural

A little surprising were;
contrast = 50
brightness = 38
color = 39
tint = 34
sharpness = 27

[...]

- Contrast at 50 is reasonable: not much difference from the default.

- Brightness at 38 is reasonable: not much difference from the default.

- Color at 39 is reasonable: a little high for me, but the Natural setting does "seem" to under-saturate when compared to the over-saturated PC LCDs and TV LCDs we've gotten so used to watching content on.

Drumroll....

- Sharpness at 27 is horrible. You've come this far, you owe it to yourself to stare at some real high quality 1080p content on pause, from 7 feet away, and notice the loss of detail in gradients, loss of detail in some details, and, especially, the gross halos that such high sharpening introduces.

Such high sharpening (anything above 8) actually reduces your effective resolution, making everything nearly 5 pixels wide, never letting anything 1, 2, or 3 pixels wide appear as such.

I recommend everyone try zero sharpening for a while. You'll notice how many shows actually do their own excessive sharpening - and how bad some of it looks in contrast to those that don't. 720p or 1080p.

That said, such high sharpening has one advantage: by ensuring nothing is finer than 4 or 5 pixels wide, it hides a serious defect in the TV's input signal processor: blurring of hair of certain colors, of facial features of certain detail, scrambling eyes and teeth of certain size, and putting black and white spots in areas where whites or blacks are surrounded by reds/browns/skin tones - and more - subject of my next post...

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post #742 of 1887 Old 01-16-2012, 06:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thhowl View Post

MENU, 2, 4, 5, 7 (service menu appears), 0 (another menu appears), scroll down to MANUAL GEOMETRY ALIGNMENT, ENTER (corrected geometry graph appears). Then press 1 to clear the geometry correction, and enter to save that setting

thhowl, is this how you turn off geometry correction?
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post #743 of 1887 Old 01-16-2012, 06:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thhowl View Post

Yes, naming it "PC" is the best thing to do.

Next, you have a choice: watch the Blu-Ray at native resolution but with a little overscan, or watch it scaled down by PowerDVD.


For either method:

- On TV, set Format to PC1080p Standard (as opposed to PC1080p Reduced, which reduces much further than the overscan amount.)

To watch at native resolution with a little overscan:

1. NVIDIA Control Panel > "Adjust Desktop size and position".
2. On Scaling tab, set resolution to 1920x1080
3. On Size tab, uncheck "Enable desktop resizing"
4. Click apply and don't forgot to wait a little and confirm the "Are you sure you like this" dialog box.

To watch it scaled down (fit the entire movie image onto the screen):

1. NVIDIA Control Panel > "Adjust Desktop size and position".
2. On Size tab, check "Enable desktop resizing" and click Resize.
3. Bring the green arrows in, but not too far in. If location of green arrows compared to bezel is not symmetrical, (image shifted left/right or up/down), it's the TV's fault, and this is digitally correctable in the service menu: MENU, 2,4,5,7, It's HVPOS: use up and down, left and right arrows on remote while green arrows are still up. Press ENTER on remote to set. (BTW, this doesn't break 1-to-1 mapping, as the DLP chip just shifts the image by an exact number of pixels.) Notice new resolution in the Green Arrows display. Mine is 1842x1036. Was that on my 2009 65" Mits too: same amount of overscan.
4. Back on PC, On Scaling tab, change resolution to that new resolution: it'll either have "(current)" by it - which is an NVIDIA bug - or it will have a star by it. Don't forget to click apply, wait a few seconds, and confirm the "Are your sure you like this?" dialog box.

The scaled down method just described doesn't scale the Windows operating system down, it tells Windows that your resolution is that smaller resolution. The NVIDIA card then does a trick: it puts black borders around Windows' 1842x1036 image, to send a full 1920x1080 image to the TV.

ATI cards can do it too, but folks will have to look it up.

I also recommend:
- turning off geometry correction to get true 1-to-1 pixel mapping
- turning off sharpening (setting it to zero) to get the true Blu-Ray image.

On the scaling tab, you got the options:

Aspect Ratio, Full Screen, and No scaling.

Which is the best to use???

Thank you for the info, this is the kind of helpful info I love to see!

Mitsubishi WD-73640 3D DLP HDTV | Pioneer VSX-1121-K 7.2 A/V Receiver | BIC America Formula F-12 Sub | JBL Studio 190x2 , 180x2, 130x2 (Rear Surrounds), 120c Speakers | Intel DX58SO | I7 975 @ 3.3Ghz | Windows 8.1 64bit
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post #744 of 1887 Old 01-16-2012, 06:21 PM
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Originally Posted by thhowl View Post

Sharpness at 27 is horrible. You've come this far, you owe it to yourself to stare at some real high quality 1080p content on pause, from 7 feet away, and notice the loss of detail in gradients, loss of detail in some details, and, especially, the gross halos that such high sharpening introduces.

Such high sharpening (anything above 8) actually reduces your effective resolution, making everything nearly 5 pixels wide, never letting anything 1, 2, or 3 pixels wide appear as such.

I recommend everyone try zero sharpening for a while. You'll notice how many shows actually do their own excessive sharpening - and how bad some of it looks in contrast to those that don't. 720p or 1080p.

That said, such high sharpening has one advantage: by ensuring nothing is finer than 4 or 5 pixels wide, it hides a serious defect in the TV's input signal processor: blurring of hair of certain colors, of facial features of certain detail, scrambling eyes and teeth of certain size, and putting black and white spots in areas where whites or blacks are surrounded by reds/browns/skin tones - and more - subject of my next post...

Well on the thx test pattern, it indicates to zero in on 2 particular areas and apply some oddly worded parameters. What made 1 zone look good worked against the other, so it was very subjective. I'll try your advice and see what happens. I'm sure using a dvd tool in a bluray player is not the best either, due to various upconversions by the player and/or the tv...
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post #745 of 1887 Old 01-16-2012, 06:31 PM
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I think just the 3d video will pass through fine. The audio won't though in HD format at least. I'm kind of new on 3d myself, but my AVR is about as old as yours, maybe not quite as old, and I had come to the conclusion that I can watch 3d just fine, but I will need to upgrade my AVR to be able to enjoy HD audio formats. Which to me is HUGE. I have a Yamaha rx-v663. So since I can't enjoy my audio to it's fullest extent, I'm just gonna hold off on getting glasses till I get a new AVR. Which I think I'll do this spring or summer. Your AVR needs to be able to do audio pass through I believe. Since it doesn't, the audio will stay play, but it will be downgraded to non lossless.

Thanks for the reply. I'm new to 3D as well... and I've never been a big fan of it, so my knowledge base is limited. But since my new TV will have it, I obviously want to take advantage of it when I want to.

Your post does confuse me a bit (with my limited knowledge of this). I've read that the PS3 cannot pass the 3D AND HD audio at the same time, so you're stuck with Dolby Digital or DTS at best when using PS3. Is this what you're talking about?

I hadn't seen anything about an AVR being able to pass 3D Video to the TV, but not process the audio at the same time.

Would you mind clarifying?

Quote:
Originally Posted by thhowl View Post

That said, such high sharpening has one advantage: by ensuring nothing is finer than 4 or 5 pixels wide, it hides a serious defect in the TV's input signal processor: blurring of hair of certain colors, of facial features of certain detail, scrambling eyes and teeth of certain size, and putting black and white spots in areas where whites or blacks are surrounded by reds/browns/skin tones - and more - subject of my next post...

Ughh... the posts about this problem are killing me, as I've been a "0 Sharpness" guy for a long time. I still have yet to receive the set, so I haven't seen it myself. I hope your next post goes into defeating the problem without excessive Sharpness!
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thhowl, is this how you turn off geometry correction?

Some quick answers, before I post some great videos and pictures (don't miss them.)

To answer your question: yes.

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Originally Posted by jkeener71 View Post

On the scaling tab, you got the options:

Aspect Ratio, Full Screen, and No scaling.

Which is the best to use???

Thank you for the info, this is the kind of helpful info I love to see!

Your welcome.

Almost mentioned them: these make no difference when the output resolution from the video card matches the native resolution of the display as reported via the HDMI interface.

Even in the case of using those green arrows to "resize" the display, the card actually outputs 1920x1080, so no scaling needed/occurs.

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Originally Posted by 69mach1-377 View Post

Well on the thx test pattern, it indicates to zero in on 2 particular areas and apply some oddly worded parameters. What made 1 zone look good worked against the other, so it was very subjective. I'll try your advice and see what happens. I'm sure using a dvd tool in a bluray player is not the best either, due to various upconversions by the player and/or the tv...

Yeah, you nailed it: the 480p image from the DVD, scaled to 1080p, doesn't help evaluate sharpness for 1080p content.

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http://www.showmeamemory.com/Other/Bad-Stuff/Mistubishi-WD-73640-Face/21060333_FDk7tz

I have finally posted videos demonstrating the input processing defect of my 2011 73" DLP Rear Projection HDTV, the Mitsubishi WD-73640.

This happens on all inputs, all 3 HDMI, named PC or not, and also on the Component Inputs.

The defect is about the TV's serious mishandling of light reds, browns, and skin tones BUT NOT IN TERMS OF COLOR ACCURACY / COLOR CALIBRATION, but rather in terms of these colors changing when in proximity to certain other colors or in certain patterns, causing bleeding, bleeding of introduced whites, greys and blacks into them and surrounding pixels, and as if "jumbling pixels together" with end result SERIOUS BLURRING, in such a way that detail in Facial features and hair are BLURRED. Not off color, blurred. The mishandling causes other artifacts beyond blurring, including right white spots inside the black hole of nostrils, inside corners of eyes and mouths, and white/gray lines between teeth and lips.

The video shows all of these by shifting the picture to hues of blue, green, and other color whereby the DETAIL is restored.

Separately, and less concerning to me, bright greens and yellows cause halos and bright twinkly white dots that are not in the source image.

In the first video you'll see at the link below, I'm filming a center area of the TV's screen, on which is displayed the image above, an image I created from several small images that exhibit the defect. You can download this image from that same gallery, and run the tests for yourself. You MUST turn your sharpening down to zero (0) on your TV to see what I am seeing. Sharpening effectively groups pixels together, so that there is no longer the fine detail for which the defect occurs.

In the second view, I show what the same image and test should look like, IOW, what it looks like on a high quality LCD. Don't miss that one: it's one you can use to test your own TV.

To demonstrate that the defect is related to color, I vary the color of the image sent to the TV by using my PC's video card controls: the hue control, which rotates all the color around, and the digital vibrance control, which shifts the colors to more saturated ones, or to less saturated ones, even black and white.

This video is best viewed in it's maximum size, 1920x1080p, or "Full HD", a size you can select from the top after you click the Play button. Then you can make the video go full screen. Smugmug, my host, rocks.

This video is not meant to be viewed on the WD-73640, but on another display so that the defects can be seen better. There is no sound in the video; instead, I direct your attention with the mouse cursor.

This was filmed with a Canon 60D D-SLR, in 1080p, at 30 frames per second. I welcome question and comments: use the comment feature in the gallery, or post here.

Link into my personal family photography site, a Smugmug site:



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post #750 of 1887 Old 01-16-2012, 08:24 PM
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Originally Posted by thhowl View Post

http://www.showmeamemory.com/Other/B...1060333_FDk7tz

I have finally posted videos demonstrating the input processing defect of my 2011 73" DLP Rear Projection HDTV, the Mitsubishi WD-73640.

The defect is about the TV's mishandling of reds, browns, and skin tones in such a way that detail in these kinds of colors are blurred. Facial features and hair are blurred. The mishandling causes other artifacts, such as spots in nostrils, corners of eyes and mouths, and lines between teeth and lips.

Separately, and less concerning to me, bright greens and yellows cause halos and bright twinkly white dots that are not in the source image.

In the first video you'll see at the link below, I'm filming a center area of the TV's screen, on which is displayed the image above, an image I created from several small images that exhibit the defect. You can download this image from that same gallery, and run the tests for yourself. You MUST turn your sharpening down to zero (0) on your TV to see what I am seeing. Sharpening effectively groups pixels together, so that there is no longer the fine detail for which the defect occurs.

In the second view, I show what the same image and test should look like, IOW, what it looks like on a high quality LCD. Don't miss that one: it's one you can use to test your own TV.

To demonstrate that the defect is related to color, I vary the color of the image sent to the TV by using my PC's video card controls: the hue control, which rotates all the color around, and the digital vibrance control, which shifts the colors to more saturated ones, or to less saturated ones, even black and white.

This video is best viewed in it's maximum size, 1920x1080p, or "Full HD", a size you can select from the top after you click the Play button. Then you can make the video go full screen. Smugmug, my host, rocks.

This video is not meant to be viewed on the WD-73640, but on another display so that the defects can be seen better. There is no sound in the video; instead, I direct your attention with the mouse cursor.

This was filmed with a Canon 60D D-SLR, in 1080p, at 30 frames per second. I welcome question and comments: use the comment feature in the gallery, or post here.

Link into my personal family photography site, a Smugmug site:

http://www.showmeamemory.com/Other/B...1060333_FDk7tz

A) your test image is not 1080p

B) the images you pulled off of google have horrible jpeg compression, especially the Striped PJ's

C) i just made a true 1920x1080 image in photoshop (I did save it as a jpeg but with max quality so very little compression artifacts), made a bunch of 1 pixel red lines that spanned the entire image and had 1 pixel high white lines between them, saved it to a thumb drive and threw it into the bluray player, the lines were perfectly displayed.

D) the sharpness setting should not do what you are saying, there is very little difference that the sharpness setting makes between 0-30, it did not mess up the 1px red lines at all, even maxed out there were still 1px red lines with 1px white lines between them.

I've said it severaltimes these aren't meant to be monitors.

Also your comparison of your LCD monitor to your tv is flawed, how can you compare a screen that has a pixel that is several times larger, no wonder you can see the bad compression artifacts on the tv so much easier.

Clearly this is a problem with the content or signal you are sending or your tv is messed up.
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