2011 Mitsubishi DLP WD-73640 official thread - Page 64 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1891 of 1910 Old 10-08-2014, 07:24 PM
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Hey guys, First post here. I have had my wd-73640 for about 2 years with no issues. Recently it shut down and gave a error code 61. The lamp had 10,500 hours on it. A TV repair guy said to replace lamp and lamp ballast. I've done that but set still won't turn on. Any ideas what to try next?
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post #1892 of 1910 Old 10-09-2014, 10:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Jethro0417 View Post
Hey guys, First post here. I have had my wd-73640 for about 2 years with no issues. Recently it shut down and gave a error code 61. The lamp had 10,500 hours on it. A TV repair guy said to replace lamp and lamp ballast. I've done that but set still won't turn on. Any ideas what to try next?
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post #1893 of 1910 Old 10-09-2014, 01:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Jethro0417 View Post
Hey guys, First post here. I have had my wd-73640 for about 2 years with no issues. Recently it shut down and gave a error code 61. The lamp had 10,500 hours on it. A TV repair guy said to replace lamp and lamp ballast. I've done that but set still won't turn on. Any ideas what to try next?
Did you replace the entire lamp cartridge, or just the lamp?

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post #1894 of 1910 Old 10-09-2014, 01:47 PM
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Did you replace the entire lamp cartridge, or just the lamp?
The whole lamp cartridge. I ended up calling mitsubishi and they are saying the whole light engine needs replaced. So unless anyone has any good ideas guess I'll be looking for a new tv.
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post #1895 of 1910 Old 10-09-2014, 01:53 PM
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The whole lamp cartridge. I ended up calling mitsubishi and they are saying the whole light engine needs replaced. So unless anyone has any good ideas guess I'll be looking for a new tv.
http://www.tvserviceparts.com/938P197040.html

http://www.tristatemodule.com/p-2707...-wd-73640.aspx

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post #1896 of 1910 Old 10-09-2014, 02:01 PM
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I apreciate the links but I don't want to spend that much fixing the tv when I can spend that money towards a new tv. I'm having the tv looked at tomorrow to confirm or deny it's the light engine.
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post #1897 of 1910 Old 10-09-2014, 02:03 PM
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I apreciate the links but I don't want to spend that much fixing the tv when I can spend that money towards a new tv. I'm having the tv looked at tomorrow to confirm or deny it's the light engine.
Did you check these jumpers after installing the ballast?

http://www.justanswer.com/tv-repair/...bad-color.html

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post #1898 of 1910 Old 10-09-2014, 08:12 PM
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Did you check these jumpers after installing the ballast?

http://www.justanswer.com/tv-repair/...bad-color.html
No I didn't. Didn't see post until after I dropped tv off at repair shop. I'll hear back in a day or so what's wrong for sure.
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post #1899 of 1910 Old 10-11-2014, 01:31 PM
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Looks like my problem is the color wheel. Spins for less than a second and stops. Just for a feeler how much could I sell tv for? Will have new lamp, lamp ballast, and color wheel.
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post #1900 of 1910 Old 07-06-2015, 12:56 PM
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Hoping someone out there can assist.

Have had my WD-73640 for about 3.5 years not, without issue. A few days ago I turned it on and immediately received an error code 48. Four red light flashes followed by eight yellow/orange light flashes, then repeats indefinitely until the power is pulled.

I've done some Google'ing, but haven't really been able to find a definitive list of what each of the Mitsubishi error codes mean in order to identify what has actually failed. Have come across a few sites that say an error 48 is for the the main board, but also a mention or two that it is an error for the PSU (power supply unit) board. Both are relatively inexpensive to purchase, but of course I'd like to ensure I'm replacing the correct failed board rather than just throwing parts/money at it.

Anyone have any insight or thoughts? Thanks in advance.
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post #1901 of 1910 Old 07-06-2015, 01:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coucher View Post
Hoping someone out there can assist.

Have had my WD-73640 for about 3.5 years not, without issue. A few days ago I turned it on and immediately received an error code 48. Four red light flashes followed by eight yellow/orange light flashes, then repeats indefinitely until the power is pulled.

I've done some Google'ing, but haven't really been able to find a definitive list of what each of the Mitsubishi error codes mean in order to identify what has actually failed. Have come across a few sites that say an error 48 is for the the main board, but also a mention or two that it is an error for the PSU (power supply unit) board. Both are relatively inexpensive to purchase, but of course I'd like to ensure I'm replacing the correct failed board rather than just throwing parts/money at it.

Anyone have any insight or thoughts? Thanks in advance.
According to the repair manual error 48 means:
48 PON-SHORT 3.3V or 5V switched supply short
Most Likely Cause: PWB-MAIN Failure
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post #1902 of 1910 Old 07-06-2015, 01:19 PM
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Thanks for such a quick reply!

Quote:
Originally Posted by KMB View Post

Most Likely Cause: PWB-MAIN Failure
So, PWB-MAIN would be this part correct?

http://www.shopjimmy.com/mitsubishi-...main-board.htm
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post #1903 of 1910 Old Yesterday, 07:20 AM
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Haven't been here in a while....

All 3 HDMI Ports went dead on our WD-73640 a few days ago... OTA Tuner and Analog inputs still work, just ALL HDMI ports are dead.
Tested all 3 HDMI Sources with Sony TV... All are good.
Have a 5 year long term contract with HH Greg.
They were unable to find a repair person near me (We moved since purchase) but I did, and they and HH Greg are determining a plan of attack....

Rumor has it from two different sources that the MITS part number to fix this is: 934C407001

Limping along with OTA and analog inputs.... More later!

Looking for a 1939 Indian Motocycle
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post #1904 of 1910 Old Yesterday, 07:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Jan J View Post
Rumor has it from two different sources that the MITS part number to fix this is: 934C407001

Limping along with OTA and analog inputs.... More later!
Recently had to replace the main board on mine.

Used this video to identify the right board:

Then bought it from here: http://www.shopjimmy.com/mitsubishi-...main-board.htm
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post #1905 of 1910 Old Yesterday, 11:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coucher View Post
Recently had to replace the main board on mine.

Used this video to identify the right board: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QpqfxV2olXo

Then bought it from here: http://www.shopjimmy.com/mitsubishi-...main-board.htm
Thanks for that information.... My current issue is HHGreg can't seem to find a service person in my area. I found one and informed both HHGreg and service person of the other's existence. They are working out who sends board to whom....
So... Unless something unusual occurs, I believe things are on track to get it done....

By the way, has bulbs for this DLP (73640) become available yet?

Jan

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post #1906 of 1910 Old Yesterday, 05:19 PM
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By the way, has bulbs for this DLP (73640) become available yet?
They have been for a while:
https://mitsuparts.3diamonds.com/

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post #1907 of 1910 Old Yesterday, 10:06 PM
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...By the way, has bulbs for this DLP (73640) become available yet?

Jan

https://mitsuparts.3diamonds.com/Pro...Model/WD-73640

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post #1908 of 1910 Old Today, 04:43 AM
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Sorry, I know you can get it from MITS, I meant from other sources...

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post #1909 of 1910 Old Today, 07:24 AM
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Sorry, I know you can get it from MITS, I meant from other sources...

Unless you want to risk damage to your TV, I would recommend buying lamps only from Mitsubishi. The forums are rife with people who have had problems with aftermarket lamps. These aren't standardized like light bulbs. The specs are specific to each TV chassis, and if they don't match perfectly, the computer faults out at best and boards get damaged at worst.

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post #1910 of 1910 Old Today, 05:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jan J View Post
Sorry, I know you can get it from MITS, I meant from other sources...
My last lamp was from DiscountTVlamps because it was half the price of the Mits. I color calibrate mine with madVR 3DLUT's which brings the Mits right into spec nicely, anyway last time I recalibrated due to lamp aging and disabled the 3DLUT the 100% Red pattern (R 255 G 0 B 0 in Photoshop) showed up as a Orange like Red and the built in CMS could not bring it back into spec. I can't say for 100% certain that it's the discount lamp but I do not recall my genuine Mits lamps doing that. Going back to the Mits lamps when this one dims below 30ft-L. madVR however is able to bring my color back into spec but if I didn't have 3DLUT correction then the color would really be messed up...

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