2011 Mitsubishi 3D DLP Owners Thread (740/840 series) - Page 118 - AVS Forum
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post #3511 of 3991 Old 09-21-2012, 04:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrentBridge View Post

You have a PM. Got it when the service tech came by to look at my screen. He didn't have the latest service manual, nor a laptop, so he logged into the Mits service site on my laptop and downloaded it.
You're probably gonna get a lot of request for a copy of that (myself included).biggrin.gif
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post #3512 of 3991 Old 09-21-2012, 04:25 PM
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Originally Posted by 120inna55 View Post

You're probably gonna get a lot of request for a copy of that (myself included).biggrin.gif

You have PM too! If anyone could post it somewhere that it could be downloaded, I would send it to them.
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post #3513 of 3991 Old 09-21-2012, 05:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GEP View Post

If explained, the majority of people still would ask "What?!?"
1. DeepField Imager darkens near blacks selectively to give a higher contrast feeling to the picture - some people call this Black Crush because it "crushes" the dark grays down to black. It may also boost the near brightest areas to the brightest for that scene. However it is seems to be slightly more than simply darkening the dark grays or brightening the brights. If you want pure contrasts and gray scale, then this alters that so it cannot be a pure gray scale.
If your TV offers this feature, it also offers a demo mode. Look at the demo mode and decide for yourself - it is your TV, not the purists here.
2. Film Mode is "2:3 Pull Down Compesation" and is for interlaced incoming signals 480i and 1080i. In order to save signal bandwidth, interlaced signals will divide a frame in to two fields, Field A and Field B, and send these separately. Field A is only the odd numbered horizontal lines of the picture. Field B is only the even numbered horizontal lines. A new field is delivered to the TV every 60th of a second, so because there are two fields for every single frame, there are 30 full frames per second. The TV is a progressive display, not an interlaced display. This means the TV needs to receive the two fields and then combine them into one progressive frame (the display of all of the lines at the same time). The TV and standard TV Broadcast signals are at 60Hz. This means the TV shows 60 frames per second. This also means the TV shows each of the original 30 frames twice to up convert this to 60 frames per second. Video created in a TV studio is 30 frames per second, and if interlaced, 60 fields per second so combine the two fields and then repeating each frame once is the easy part.
However standard film is created at 24 frames per second not 30 or 60 frames per second. This means at the source of the signal they need do a special pattern called 2:3 pull down (some reverse this and call it 3:2 pull down). That would be using repeats to change the frame rate. It works this way:
Frame one is sent and then repeated once, Frame two is sent and then repeated twice, Frame three is sent and repeated once, and Frame four is sent and repeated twice.
1-1-2-2-2-3-3-4-4-4-etc.
Now to send interlaced signals they select just the correct lines for each Field either "e" even lines or "o" odd lines.
1e-1o-2e-2o-2e-3o-3e-4o-4e-4o etc. The reason even is always followed by odd is because that is the way the old fashion CRTs scanned the face plate.
Both of these process are call the frame "cadence" In order to combine the correct Fields of even and odd lines the TV needs to skip several fields and also identify when a frame was lead by an odd instead of an even field. The process of indentifying this cadence and compensating for the combining of lines and the progressive display is call 2:3 pull down compensation or correction. This means that the correct fields were used to combine so you do not have (for example) the even lines from 2e (third repeat) combined with odd lines of 3o (first field).
The Auto setting tells the TV to look for and use the flags in "properly" created digital interlaced signal to identify the fact that there is 2:3 pull down and to compensate. If there are no flags the TV often can still identify these signals by analyzing other factors. However, there can be errors in identification. The OFF setting tells the TV to always use the combination technique it would use for signals originally made in TV studios (30 frames per second).
This feature should be used, and OFF selected only when you can see the TV has made an error. The error is usually something jagged edges or a combing effect on edges.
3. Edge Enhancement - there are several ways to make the edges of objects in the image look sharper. However, most TVs use a technique of looking at the brightness transition at that edge and then adjusting the brightness of the few pixels adjacent to the edge. For instance if the color on the left of the edge is a brightness level of 16 out of a possibility of 30 - low dark and high bright (these are made up numbers for illustration) and the edge itself is 12. The TV may boost a few of the bright pixels adjacent to the edge to brightness 20. This makes the edge at 12 look a little sharper but those few pixels that are artificially bright become a "halo". I know nothing about the Darbee unit so I cannot say how it enhances edges - it should be noted that any edge enhancement is artificial but that does not mean it is bad - no original signal is perfect in the first place.
4. Video Noise means "Video Noise Reduction". Video noise is visible in the picture as tiny dots, snow, grain, slight bug looking crawling etc. It is the unintended "crap" that is in the signal. Remember this is no such thing as a perfect signal. Usually because this noise is very random the TV can identify a lot of this "crap" and correct for it. One of the methods (and there a lot of methods) is to limit higher frequencies of the video signals, however since the fine detail is in the high frequencies, too much limiting of the high frequencies also softens the picture. Usually the best signals are from sources like Blu-ray where there is much less places for the crap to be introduced, so you might want OFF for that source. However, as with everything - there are good Blu-rays, excellent Blu-rays, and poor Blu-rays.
One of my favorite demonstration discs is Casino Royale.. this reminds me of the speech "M" gave Bond when you she found him in her penthouse. She says to Bond, "This may be a hard for blunt instrument to understand". My point is that tools EE, Noise Reduction, Deep Field Imager are not especially good controls. They are crude and there is not much good that can be said about them. If you sit a long way from the screen, they may be of some benefit. Even the EE and NR on my DUO make a mess out of things and they are far less destructive than what the Mits gadgets do. For most people the best advice on the Mits NR, EE and Deep Field Imager is turn them off and forget they are there.

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post #3514 of 3991 Old 09-21-2012, 06:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrentBridge View Post

You have PM too! If anyone could post it somewhere that it could be downloaded, I would send it to them.
Since you requested it and were so generous, I've hosted it. Here you go: http://www.matthilton.net/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderfiles/mitsubishi_v47_service_manual.pdf. Share the link as needed.

Edit: I will take it down upon request. Otherwise, I'll leave it up indefinitely.
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post #3515 of 3991 Old 09-21-2012, 09:29 PM
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So far I'm loving my 82840. It's amazing how good it looks especially at night in a pitch black room. Couple questions.

1. My PS3 goes through my AVR and the AVR directly to the tv via HDMI. For some reason, the TV will not allow me to name the input anything but AVR. I tried deleting the input and I thought it worked at first. I called it Blu-ray but the screen went black right after that and said AVR detected and changed it back to AVR. It's not a big deal but I was wondering if there's any way to change that.

2. I bought a couple pairs of Xpand X104's and they flicker like crazy. The firmware on both my tv and glasses have been updated to the most current version. Is it possible I'm doing something wrong or is that just the downside to these glasses with this tv?

Thanks in advance!

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post #3516 of 3991 Old 09-21-2012, 09:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JewDaddy View Post

So far I'm loving my 82840. It's amazing how good it looks especially at night in a pitch black room. Couple questions.
1. My PS3 goes through my AVR and the AVR directly to the tv via HDMI. For some reason, the TV will not allow me to name the input anything but AVR. I tried deleting the input and I thought it worked at first. I called it Blu-ray but the screen went black right after that and said AVR detected and changed it back to AVR. It's not a big deal but I was wondering if there's any way to change that.
2. I bought a couple pairs of Xpand X104's and they flicker like crazy. The firmware on both my tv and glasses have been updated to the most current version. Is it possible I'm doing something wrong or is that just the downside to these glasses with this tv?
Thanks in advance!

What profile are you running on the X104s?

Mitsubishi WD-92842, Onkyo HT-S9400THX, Oppo BDP-93, XBOX 360 w/Kinect, XBOX (modded), WD My Book Essential, FiOS Bundle
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post #3517 of 3991 Old 09-21-2012, 10:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by enthuzist View Post

What profile are you running on the X104s?

It's on Samsung/Mitsubishi

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post #3518 of 3991 Old 09-22-2012, 09:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JewDaddy View Post

So far I'm loving my 82840. It's amazing how good it looks especially at night in a pitch black room. Couple questions.
1. My PS3 goes through my AVR and the AVR directly to the tv via HDMI. For some reason, the TV will not allow me to name the input anything but AVR. I tried deleting the input and I thought it worked at first. I called it Blu-ray but the screen went black right after that and said AVR detected and changed it back to AVR. It's not a big deal but I was wondering if there's any way to change that.
2. I bought a couple pairs of Xpand X104's and they flicker like crazy. The firmware on both my tv and glasses have been updated to the most current version. Is it possible I'm doing something wrong or is that just the downside to these glasses with this tv?
Thanks in advance!

Would it help the flicker if I get the Xpand external emitter and use that instead of the internal mitsubishi emitter?

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post #3519 of 3991 Old 09-22-2012, 12:11 PM
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Is the x104 even compatible? I thought the x103 was recommended.

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post #3520 of 3991 Old 09-22-2012, 01:09 PM
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Originally Posted by DoctorM View Post

Is the x104 even compatible? I thought the x103 was recommended.

Someone on here posted that they were. I had them connected last night while watching a 3D blu-ray, but they flickered like crazy. Image looked good other than that.

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post #3521 of 3991 Old 09-22-2012, 02:41 PM
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Try the Panasonic setting instead. Also are you certain that the glasses are fully charged?

Mitsubishi WD-92842, Onkyo HT-S9400THX, Oppo BDP-93, XBOX 360 w/Kinect, XBOX (modded), WD My Book Essential, FiOS Bundle
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post #3522 of 3991 Old 09-22-2012, 02:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by enthuzist View Post

Try the Panasonic setting instead. Also are you certain that the glasses are fully charged?

I made sure they were fully charged before use. I'll give the Panasonic setting a shot. BTW, once I've connected glasses. should they automatically sync to the tv next time a 3d signal is detected? I wasn't sure if I had to press the power button on the bottom or if they will automatically come on when 3d is being displayed. I find that once I press the power button, nothing happens and I have to go through the syncing process all over again. Thanks for the help!

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post #3523 of 3991 Old 09-22-2012, 03:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JewDaddy View Post

I made sure they were fully charged before use. I'll give the Panasonic setting a shot. BTW, once I've connected glasses. should they automatically sync to the tv next time a 3d signal is detected? I wasn't sure if I had to press the power button on the bottom or if they will automatically come on when 3d is being displayed. I find that once I press the power button, nothing happens and I have to go through the syncing process all over again. Thanks for the help!

I have found that after a few minutes (5) if no 3D signal is detected, the glasses will lose sync (by design - powersaver). You have to re-sync them if you have a long delay.

Also the Xpand site lists the 840 series as compatible with the X104 (Youniversal) glasses.

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post #3524 of 3991 Old 09-23-2012, 08:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by enthuzist View Post

I have found that after a few minutes (5) if no 3D signal is detected, the glasses will lose sync (by design - powersaver). You have to re-sync them if you have a long delay.
Also the Xpand site lists the 840 series as compatible with the X104 (Youniversal) glasses.

Ok. So I bought a couple pairs of the Mitsubishi-3DGX103 XPAND 3D glasses. Got both synced up no problem. Again, flickering during 3D. What the heck is the deal? I'm using what I thought were the official Mits glasses. What's causing the flickering. Starting to get frustrated at this point. Can someone please recommend glasses that stay synced without these issues. I'm thinking about the Monster Glasses with rf transmitter. Amazon has a good price on them right now. Would it help with the flickering if I use the external Xpand emitter?? Thanks

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post #3525 of 3991 Old 09-23-2012, 12:12 PM
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Originally Posted by JewDaddy View Post

Ok. So I bought a couple pairs of the Mitsubishi-3DGX103 XPAND 3D glasses. Got both synced up no problem. Again, flickering during 3D. What the heck is the deal? I'm using what I thought were the official Mits glasses. What's causing the flickering. Starting to get frustrated at this point. Can someone please recommend glasses that stay synced without these issues. I'm thinking about the Monster Glasses with rf transmitter. Amazon has a good price on them right now. Would it help with the flickering if I use the external Xpand emitter?? Thanks

Are you using your PS3 for 3D? Is the PS3 fully updated? I thought I read where the PS3 should be set to something to eliminate some issue. I'm still looking. Do you have another 3D player to test with? This is showing me that you have another problem and the glasses are not the issue.

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post #3526 of 3991 Old 09-23-2012, 12:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by enthuzist View Post

Are you using your PS3 for 3D? Is the PS3 fully updated? I thought I read where the PS3 should be set to something to eliminate some issue. I'm still looking. Do you have another 3D player to test with? This is showing me that you have another problem and the glasses are not the issue.

I don't know what I could be doing wrong but it's definitely possible. It happens on my PS3 and also my Comcast DVR. I keep wondering if using an external Xpand Emitter would help.

Another question if anyone knows. I have four pairs of Samsungs higher end 3D glasses from last year. They're very comfortable and are also rechargeable. I know that the 842 series will work with it, but I was wondering if there's some type of RF Emitter I can purchase separate to make them work with the 840.

One more thing, is there any way to get a sharper picture while watching 3D? When using the default Bright picture mode, sharpness is nowhere to be found. Would the ADV Modes be the only way to make that adjustment? And is it possible to use Perfect Picture and Perfect Tint while watching 3D? Sorry for all the questions, but I'm just now getting time to mess with it before I leave for another week. Thanks!

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post #3527 of 3991 Old 09-23-2012, 06:31 PM
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I just tried 2D+ Depth with my recently purchased WD-73740. Obviously, not as good as 3D, but an acceptable alternative for depth on 2D content, especially on live events like football games. Just wondering what most people are using for the setting. To me, seems that -2 will show a display that's deeper (recessed) compared to the frame bezel, while +2 makes the display seem to project in front of the bezel. As far as a "3D" like effect on the picture itself, seems that -2 is best, to my eyes. Comments, and others' setting (-2, -1, 1, 2)?
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post #3528 of 3991 Old 09-23-2012, 06:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GEP View Post

If explained, the majority of people still would ask "What?!?"
1. DeepField Imager darkens near blacks selectively to give a higher contrast feeling to the picture - some people call this Black Crush because it "crushes" the dark grays down to black. It may also boost the near brightest areas to the brightest for that scene. However it is seems to be slightly more than simply darkening the dark grays or brightening the brights. If you want pure contrasts and gray scale, then this alters that so it cannot be a pure gray scale.
If your TV offers this feature, it also offers a demo mode. Look at the demo mode and decide for yourself - it is your TV, not the purists here.
2. Film Mode is "2:3 Pull Down Compesation" and is for interlaced incoming signals 480i and 1080i. In order to save signal bandwidth, interlaced signals will divide a frame in to two fields, Field A and Field B, and send these separately. Field A is only the odd numbered horizontal lines of the picture. Field B is only the even numbered horizontal lines. A new field is delivered to the TV every 60th of a second, so because there are two fields for every single frame, there are 30 full frames per second. The TV is a progressive display, not an interlaced display. This means the TV needs to receive the two fields and then combine them into one progressive frame (the display of all of the lines at the same time). The TV and standard TV Broadcast signals are at 60Hz. This means the TV shows 60 frames per second. This also means the TV shows each of the original 30 frames twice to up convert this to 60 frames per second. Video created in a TV studio is 30 frames per second, and if interlaced, 60 fields per second so combine the two fields and then repeating each frame once is the easy part.
However standard film is created at 24 frames per second not 30 or 60 frames per second. This means at the source of the signal they need do a special pattern called 2:3 pull down (some reverse this and call it 3:2 pull down). That would be using repeats to change the frame rate. It works this way:
Frame one is sent and then repeated once, Frame two is sent and then repeated twice, Frame three is sent and repeated once, and Frame four is sent and repeated twice.
1-1-2-2-2-3-3-4-4-4-etc.
Now to send interlaced signals they select just the correct lines for each Field either "e" even lines or "o" odd lines.
1e-1o-2e-2o-2e-3o-3e-4o-4e-4o etc. The reason even is always followed by odd is because that is the way the old fashion CRTs scanned the face plate.
Both of these process are call the frame "cadence" In order to combine the correct Fields of even and odd lines the TV needs to skip several fields and also identify when a frame was lead by an odd instead of an even field. The process of indentifying this cadence and compensating for the combining of lines and the progressive display is call 2:3 pull down compensation or correction. This means that the correct fields were used to combine so you do not have (for example) the even lines from 2e (third repeat) combined with odd lines of 3o (first field).
The Auto setting tells the TV to look for and use the flags in "properly" created digital interlaced signal to identify the fact that there is 2:3 pull down and to compensate. If there are no flags the TV often can still identify these signals by analyzing other factors. However, there can be errors in identification. The OFF setting tells the TV to always use the combination technique it would use for signals originally made in TV studios (30 frames per second).
This feature should be used, and OFF selected only when you can see the TV has made an error. The error is usually something jagged edges or a combing effect on edges.
3. Edge Enhancement - there are several ways to make the edges of objects in the image look sharper. However, most TVs use a technique of looking at the brightness transition at that edge and then adjusting the brightness of the few pixels adjacent to the edge. For instance if the color on the left of the edge is a brightness level of 16 out of a possibility of 30 - low dark and high bright (these are made up numbers for illustration) and the edge itself is 12. The TV may boost a few of the bright pixels adjacent to the edge to brightness 20. This makes the edge at 12 look a little sharper but those few pixels that are artificially bright become a "halo". I know nothing about the Darbee unit so I cannot say how it enhances edges - it should be noted that any edge enhancement is artificial but that does not mean it is bad - no original signal is perfect in the first place.
4. Video Noise means "Video Noise Reduction". Video noise is visible in the picture as tiny dots, snow, grain, slight bug looking crawling etc. It is the unintended "crap" that is in the signal. Remember this is no such thing as a perfect signal. Usually because this noise is very random the TV can identify a lot of this "crap" and correct for it. One of the methods (and there a lot of methods) is to limit higher frequencies of the video signals, however since the fine detail is in the high frequencies, too much limiting of the high frequencies also softens the picture. Usually the best signals are from sources like Blu-ray where there is much less places for the crap to be introduced, so you might want OFF for that source. However, as with everything - there are good Blu-rays, excellent Blu-rays, and poor Blu-rays.

GEP, your above information help me lot but i was wondering if you share some more details on below service option
MENU+ 2+4+5+7
Press video button---> 48.GRWL
Press video button---> 49.GGW
Press video button---> 50.GBW
Press video button---> 60.IDL
Press video button---> 61.DBK
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post #3529 of 3991 Old 09-23-2012, 06:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JewDaddy View Post

So far I'm loving my 82840. It's amazing how good it looks especially at night in a pitch black room. Couple questions.
1. My PS3 goes through my AVR and the AVR directly to the tv via HDMI. For some reason, the TV will not allow me to name the input anything but AVR. I tried deleting the input and I thought it worked at first. I called it Blu-ray but the screen went black right after that and said AVR detected and changed it back to AVR. It's not a big deal but I was wondering if there's any way to change that.
2. I bought a couple pairs of Xpand X104's and they flicker like crazy. The firmware on both my tv and glasses have been updated to the most current version. Is it possible I'm doing something wrong or is that just the downside to these glasses with this tv?
Thanks in advance!

I'm also on same boat but I'm using 3Active glasses.from dimension optics for my 92840 but they flickers like crazy, i thought it might be because of charge, so fullycharged twice but it keep flickering on my both pair of glasses

3ACTIVE® 3D Glasses http://www.dimensionaloptics.com/Product.aspx?l=00010001000100080000&p=A1S01264

I'm using network media player to play my 3D movies but dont know how to resolve flickering issue, does anyone have idea what could be wrong
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post #3530 of 3991 Old 09-24-2012, 06:00 AM
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I could never get the X104 to stay synced to my WD-92840 (post). As for the 3Active, I still use them and TrueDepth 3D but I can only personally recommend the Mitsubishi branded Xpand X103's and Monster Vision Max 3D due to the same issues with both the 3Active and TrueDepth 3D glasses (link).
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post #3531 of 3991 Old 09-24-2012, 08:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wesley Hester View Post

I could never get the X104 to stay synced to my WD-92840 (post). As for the 3Active, I still use them and TrueDepth 3D but I can only personally recommend the Mitsubishi branded Xpand X103's and Monster Vision Max 3D due to the same issues with both the 3Active and TrueDepth 3D glasses (link).

I find this strange and yet even stranger that JewDaddy also tried the X103 with the same results. Also jkalsaria has the 3Active glasses with the same issue. All three have been used and tested good by owners of 2011/2012 DLP sets on this and other forums. Something must be overlooked somewhere, but I can't figure out what. The glasses are no longer the common denominator, it has to do with the TV, PS3 or setup. The Bit Cauldron series glasses should work since you are now using the external RF emitter albeit attached to the emitter output of the TV.

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post #3532 of 3991 Old 09-24-2012, 10:40 AM
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Is it possible there are fluorescent lights in the area? Fluorescent lights, including the Compact Fluorescent lights we are always encouraged to use, flicker by design. That is how FL lights operate. Normally you do not see the flicker, but it is very visible through the active shutter glasses – there may be a miss-match in the speed of the FL flicker and the speed in the shuttering of the glasses. Also some people will be more sensitive to this flicker than others.
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post #3533 of 3991 Old 09-24-2012, 10:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by enthuzist View Post

I find this strange and yet even stranger that JewDaddy also tried the X103 with the same results. Also jkalsaria has the 3Active glasses with the same issue. All three have been used and tested good by owners of 2011/2012 DLP sets on this and other forums. Something must be overlooked somewhere, but I can't figure out what. The glasses are no longer the common denominator, it has to do with the TV, PS3 or setup. The Bit Cauldron series glasses should work since you are now using the external RF emitter albeit attached to the emitter output of the TV.

So I went back to HHGregg yesterday and purchased the Mitsubishi branded 103's with external emitter to see if that helped with the flickering I was having. Since hooking up the emitter and turning off the internal emitter in the 3D menu, I have yet to notice any flickering with the 103's or 104's. I'm assuming maybe the internal emitter is defective or not strong enough to keep sync with the glasses. I'm gonna hang on to them for now and see if I have any more issues before deciding which glasses to keep.

Just curious if anyone knows an answer to my previous question about Samsung glasses. I have last years 3500 rechargeable glasses and didn't know if there was some type of RF Emitter I could purchase to get them to work with the 840. I know they would work with the 842, but wasn't sure if I could get them to work with the 840 via an external RF Emitter. Thanks!

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post #3534 of 3991 Old 09-24-2012, 11:49 AM
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I was going to suggest checking the HDMI cable... but that's been ruled out.

It seems silly, but is everything clear of your IR emitters on the TV? If there's no clear line of sight, that'd cause the problem.

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post #3535 of 3991 Old 09-24-2012, 12:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkalsaria View Post

GEP, your above information help me lot but i was wondering if you share some more details on below service option
MENU+ 2+4+5+7
Press video button---> 48.GRWL
Press video button---> 49.GGW
Press video button---> 50.GBW
Press video button---> 60.IDL
Press video button---> 61.DBK

Press video button---> 48.GRWL Single Point Red Contrast Control for Greyscale
Press video button---> 49.GGW Single Point Green Contrast Control for Greyscale
Press video button---> 50.GBW Single Point Bkye Contrast Control for Greyscale
The 3 above are used to set greyscaleselection for the presets like Natural, Bright and Brilliant You would need a meter, and based on what I see on my 92840 Low is pretty close to perfect considering it is single point. If you are going to adjust with a meter you will probably want to use the 2 Point greyscale in ADVANCED Mode to which the above doesn't really aply

Press video button---> 60.IDL This is the color wheel adjustment... probably should leave alone

Press video button---> 61.DBK This should be to disable the Dynamic Iris if so equipped. In the past models this setting did not stick.

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post #3536 of 3991 Old 09-24-2012, 01:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gtgray View Post

Press video button---> 48.GRWL Single Point Red Contrast Control for Greyscale
Press video button---> 49.GGW Single Point Green Contrast Control for Greyscale
Press video button---> 50.GBW Single Point Bkye Contrast Control for Greyscale
The 3 above are used to set greyscaleselection for the presets like Natural, Bright and Brilliant You would need a meter, and based on what I see on my 92840 Low is pretty close to perfect considering it is single point. If you are going to adjust with a meter you will probably want to use the 2 Point greyscale in ADVANCED Mode to which the above doesn't really aply
Press video button---> 60.IDL This is the color wheel adjustment... probably should leave alone
Press video button---> 61.DBK This should be to disable the Dynamic Iris if so equipped. In the past models this setting did not stick.

thanks for the information and I'm not using meter but Darbee darblet and doing some changes manually with what my eyes can see the difference. I agree that one should not touch IDL because play with it and was not at all help rather it was making worst
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post #3537 of 3991 Old 09-24-2012, 03:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkalsaria View Post

thanks for the information and I'm not using meter but Darbee darblet and doing some changes manually with what my eyes can see the difference. I agree that one should not touch IDL because play with it and was not at all help rather it was making worst

I don't know about your set but the factory preset Low grayscale setting is quite good. RGB tracks well until you get to 100 percent stimulus than it goes a bit red. I don't how much better you would get it using single point adjustment like what is in the Service Menu. Natural is pretty decen overallt, the gamma is a bit low (Average about 2.15). You need a meter though to set Perfect Color and Perfect Tint. Blue is slightly undersaturated in Natural. Color dEs can be dialed to <1.0 pretty much across the board except for Blue. The color gamut is wider in Bright, and even wider in Brilliant but Gamma for those presets is quite low, 1.7 ish in Bright and even lower in Brilliant.

The real problem with calibration adjustments of this set and most sets today is color doesn't track very wel across saturaion and stimulus levelsl. So while color at 75 or 100 percent saturation can be dialed in quite well it gets way off at 50 percent and 25 percent. The only thing that will fix that is the new 125 point color look upt tables in the new firmware for the Lumagen Radiences coupled with the latest support in ChromaPure and Calman 5. Those solutions set the color at 125 points and use interpolation to bring the whole color gamut into line,

Think about it there is huge difference in setting 125 colors versus 6. One of the things that really bugs me is when some content is intentionall filmed in very desaturated color. This TV and most just make muddy messes out that material.

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post #3538 of 3991 Old 09-24-2012, 04:00 PM
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So now that I have my 3D issue figured out, on to a couple questions.

1. Concerning the Darbee Darblet, how does it affect the 3D picture on the 840 Mits? I find the 3d picture to be lacking a lot in the sharpness department. I would hope the Darblet would improve that, but didn't know if it introduced negative side effects such as ghosting or crosstalk. Does anyone have first hand experience with this?

2. Does anyone have some picture settings they recommend? I'm still running off the Bright picture setting with a few tweaks.

Thanks!

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post #3539 of 3991 Old 09-24-2012, 04:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JewDaddy View Post

So now that I have my 3D issue figured out, on to a couple questions.
1. Concerning the Darbee Darblet, how does it affect the 3D picture on the 840 Mits? I find the 3d picture to be lacking a lot in the sharpness department. I would hope the Darblet would improve that, but didn't know if it introduced negative side effects such as ghosting or crosstalk. Does anyone have first hand experience with this?
2. Does anyone have some picture settings they recommend? I'm still running off the Bright picture setting with a few tweaks.
Thanks!

I just explained the Gamma problems with Bright and Brilliant. If you have the Clear Contrast screen you will find it hard to properly set the black level right. If you set brightness high enough to see digital 17 which is what you want you will probably find the picture washes out slightly and is just not crisp. This make deep shadow detail something of a problem. You can't really get color right without a meter.. If you have a meter you might just as well use Advanced mode where you choose a higher gamma. The 2.3 Gamma selection in Advanced Mode is closer to to 2.25 than 2.3.

The single best thing you can do for pitcure quality is get your stand height low, say 10 to 12" in for the 92s

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post #3540 of 3991 Old 09-24-2012, 04:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JewDaddy View Post

So I went back to HHGregg yesterday and purchased the Mitsubishi branded 103's with external emitter to see if that helped with the flickering I was having. Since hooking up the emitter and turning off the internal emitter in the 3D menu, I have yet to notice any flickering with the 103's or 104's. I'm assuming maybe the internal emitter is defective or not strong enough to keep sync with the glasses. I'm gonna hang on to them for now and see if I have any more issues before deciding which glasses to keep.
Just curious if anyone knows an answer to my previous question about Samsung glasses. I have last years 3500 rechargeable glasses and didn't know if there was some type of RF Emitter I could purchase to get them to work with the 840. I know they would work with the 842, but wasn't sure if I could get them to work with the 840 via an external RF Emitter. Thanks!

It is pointing more to a bad internal emitter issue. I would have a ticket opened and get it checked/replaced. I don't think there is an external emmitter for the Samsung RF glasses. The fact that my Samsung Plasma and my 92842 both used the same Full HD 3D protocol was also a factor which I have since enjoyed the benefits as I use my XPands and Samsung glasses for both 3D rooms.

Mitsubishi WD-92842, Onkyo HT-S9400THX, Oppo BDP-93, XBOX 360 w/Kinect, XBOX (modded), WD My Book Essential, FiOS Bundle
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