2011 Mitsubishi 3D DLP Owners Thread (740/840 series) - Page 131 - AVS Forum
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post #3901 of 3969 Old 11-08-2013, 02:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gtgray View Post

Depending on your willingness to invest in the set the correct answer to dramatically improved the image on the 82740 is to properly calibrate it using external color management via either a Radiance Lumagen or an EEColorbox and something like ChromaPure or SpectraCal. Once you do that you have a totally different television. You will do it in Bright... Brilliant worthless for anything resembling accurate color. You can have a bright snappy picture with dead spot on color.. That is hopeless with any of the preset modes or in Advance Mode. The CMS is not linear.. external color 3D Color Look UP Tables are required. The EE Colorbox is about$700 a pro can do the calibration and you don't have to buy a meter and software. The Colorbox will correctly set 4000 plus colors and interpolate to near perfect anything in between 4000. This kind of image is not available on your Sammy without an external color management processor either. In fact just about any display needs such a device to get color right. Some pro monitors have a similar capability built in. Pefect color/Perfect Tint may be the name for the CMS in the Mits but it is just crap, totally crap. I spent 3 years messing around with an 82837 then the 92840. I bought a Radiance XS and ChromaPure automatic and magic astonishing color... The XS is no match for current Lumagens or the EE Color... but you can still get color to an error level dE 1 or so on average... A pro with a high end meter and a late Lumagen or EEColor could get it to nearly dE of zero. The lamp needs to be on bright btw.

I don not plan on investing in any calibration equipment, but had a question about a point you made...are you saying that "Bright" pic mode is a better starting point than "Advanced"? This is the first I've seen this mentioned, so I wanted to confirm.

I'm assuming to get this incredible picture you describe, not only would a person need the equipment you mentioned, but the knowledge of how to work the service menu...correct? What I'm asking is - if I switch my TV to "Bright" mode and mess with the contrast, brightness, color, etc. I'm not gonna just happen across the perfect balance, am I?
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post #3902 of 3969 Old 11-08-2013, 02:37 PM
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I'm far from an expert on TV calibrations but all of my DLPs are on Bright (not Brilliant) and I have had some professionally calibrated (if you want to call BB professional smile.gif). The last DLP I bought (92842), I used the Disney WOW calibration disk and got excellent results. The starting point in all of them is that you want to use "Bright" and not "Brilliant".

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post #3903 of 3969 Old 11-08-2013, 02:42 PM
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Thanks Lujan - yeah, I know to stay far far away from "Brilliant", but am surprised that "Bright" is a better starting point than "Advanced" - so fewer basic options, just doesn't seem to make sense to me. Never the less, I'm gonna give "Bright" mode a shot tonight! smile.gif
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post #3904 of 3969 Old 11-15-2013, 05:04 PM
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Can anyone tell me what the frequency response, power handling, and an appropriate crossover setting is for the WD-73840 is? I have it set to small (using it as my center channel speaker) but not sure where to set the crossover (set at 100 Hz right now). Called Mitsubishi but they were no help. Seems they only have the same info I have in my manuals.

Thanks in advance


BTW - My AVR is a Yamaha RX-V773.

End War, VOTE PEACE
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post #3905 of 3969 Old 11-15-2013, 08:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Itzatta View Post

Can anyone tell me what the frequency response, power handling, and an appropriate crossover setting is for the WD-73840 is? I have it set to small (using it as my center channel speaker) but not sure where to set the crossover (set at 100 Hz right now). Called Mitsubishi but they were no help. Seems they only have the same info I have in my manuals.

Thanks in advance


BTW - My AVR is a Yamaha RX-V773.
According to the spec sheet 16 speakers times two watts each for a total of 32 watts

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post #3906 of 3969 Old 11-16-2013, 10:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Augerhandle View Post

Count the error code blinks next time. There should be two sets of blinks, separated by a pause. The first set is the first digit (10s) of the error code, the second set is the second digit (1s), as in 4 6 equals 46
Here is a link explaining the error codes:

http://stereoandvideorepairco.com/Troubleshooting/MitsubishiShutdownTroubles hooting.html

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post #3907 of 3969 Old 11-16-2013, 09:37 PM
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I wouldn't say that going from a plasma to a DLP is a step down at all. It could be a step up, it all depends on how good the set is in the first place, and what your priorities are in what you are looking for in a set.

1bHk

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post #3908 of 3969 Old 11-19-2013, 08:20 PM
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I was about to make a new thread, but this one seems pretty lively.

I purchased a 92840 in December of 2011. Brand new. I have had a few problems, not big ones, over the past 2 years. But cannot really tell if related or not. I will toss a short summary version at the bottom for people in a hurry.

The TV had a slight whine (the kind that CRT tvs transformers used to give off). But it was only noticeable from the back near where the lamp was. With even a box fan or lowest surround volume you couldn't hear the whine. I called Mitsubishi and BestBuy(purchased it from them) and had two separate "specialist" tell me it was nothing. To me it sounded like fan/color wheel barring or power problem, but again it was so low volume I doubt it really was anything. Not grinding, just a low volume high pitch tone.

My second problem is a few months old now (the tv was about 1.5 years old at this time, with maybe four thousand hours of use) The problem has persisted for the past 4-6 months, but not sure if related to the noise. The tv has a slight flicker. Almost strobe like. But not the entire panel, only specific parts. It is so hard to notice, that even my fiance and friends could not tell at first, I had to get them inches from the screen to see the flicker. But over the months it is clearly happening, so much so that I barely turn the tv on at all anymore (until I figure the issue out, of course).

Finally. I decided to watch the tv again. In the past month I have used it for only a few movies, and to check out my PS4. While checking the ps4 out the tv turned off, and flashed its green light a ton of times then turned off. Since then, I cannot get the tv to turn itself off again. Whining is still there (not louder, same volume), flickering is still there. I haven't had enough time to keep it on for a few hours in a row for it to turn itself off, so I cannot tell if that was just a fluke or not.




In summary. high pitch whining noise since day one that is barely audible, spotty flickering for past few months that has gotten more noticeable, tv turned itself off and gave warning blinks... But stays on and wont repeat the turning off and warning blinks.


Is there a menu to see warning indications? (like an OBD for a car, or a av receiver menu for error codes). Does it sound like my lamp, colorwheel or power unit is the problem? I know it is near impossible to diagnose over the internet, but I really appreciate any help!
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post #3909 of 3969 Old 11-19-2013, 10:40 PM
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The whining noise you hear is probably the cooling fan which is normal and have you tried replacing the lamp? How many hours on the set? Press"Menu" then "2-4-7-0". More than likely you need a lamp replacement.
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post #3910 of 3969 Old 11-19-2013, 11:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mistawankaz View Post

In summary. high pitch whining noise since day one that is barely audible, spotty flickering for past few months that has gotten more noticeable, tv turned itself off and gave warning blinks... But stays on and wont repeat the turning off and warning blinks.

The whine is probably the cooling fan for the bulb like colour said. I can hear mine occasionally but only when it's super quiet or on a hot day when it has to work harder. The flickering, probably time for a new lamp. In the setup menu turn the lamp to Bright mode and it should fix it until you get a new lamp. The shut off when you turned on your PS4... that might be a HDCP handshake issue. The PS4 might've glitched on the signal and the TV freaked out and shut down. I've had that happen a few times with my Mits.

My Home Theater/Video Gaming/HTPC/2 Channel rig (Mitsubishi, MartinLogan, Marantz, DIYMA, and others)

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post #3911 of 3969 Old 11-19-2013, 11:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by colour View Post

The whining noise you hear is probably the cooling fan which is normal and have you tried replacing the lamp? How many hours on the set? Press"Menu" then "2-4-7-0". More than likely you need a lamp replacement.

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The whine is probably the cooling fan for the bulb like colour said. I can hear mine occasionally but only when it's super quiet or on a hot day when it has to work harder. The flickering, probably time for a new lamp. In the setup menu turn the lamp to Bright mode and it should fix it until you get a new lamp. The shut off when you turned on your PS4... that might be a HDCP handshake issue. The PS4 might've glitched on the signal and the TV freaked out and shut down. I've had that happen a few times with my Mits.

I appreciate the replies. I just did the 2470 menu and sure enough, as I had guessed, just about 4k hours. 3890 actually..

I turned on bright lamp mode and that did help a bit, makes the flickering even more noticeable haha. I am glad the whining is not really anything to worry about, that is a relief.

I am checking on eBay/Amazon and other internet retailers, for a bulb. I see pricing for $40-100+. I see just bulbs, then bulb+housing. Obviously I want the Philips bulb not a generic, but is paying the extra $20-30 for a housing necessary? The last time I replaced a bulb in a DLP was 2004. Is it just a few screws, take panel off, pull old housing out, put new housing in? Or if I decide on a bulb only, is that just extra work and unnecessary work to swap bulbs with my current housing?

I appreciate the help. I am trying to look in these forums and google information. But with 130 pages it is not that easy, and google doesn't like this tv too much.

Again, thanks for the replies. The last thing I want is wasted money, or somehow ruining my tv (fiance would figuratively murder me!)

PS. One last thing, sorry it slipped my mind! My fiance ordered this http://www.ebay.com/itm/261163954975?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 as a christmas present for me (I accidentally found out ;(, I swear!). Our tv room is huge, and the built in emitter doesn't really work that well from all seating locations. Will that work with the Sony 3d glasses? We have 12 pairs, and I might have to let her know I know she bought it and have her return it if it wont work with our 92840 or our 3d glasses. Again, I can't thank you guys/girls enough.
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post #3912 of 3969 Old 11-20-2013, 02:41 AM
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Personally I'd only go with a lamp directly from Mitsubishi. I've heard of too many horror stories on cheaper ones.

Yes that emitter will work with the Sony PS3 glasses. That's the combo I use.

My Home Theater/Video Gaming/HTPC/2 Channel rig (Mitsubishi, MartinLogan, Marantz, DIYMA, and others)

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post #3913 of 3969 Old 11-20-2013, 07:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mistawankaz View Post


I appreciate the replies. I just did the 2470 menu and sure enough, as I had guessed, just about 4k hours. 3890 actually..

I turned on bright lamp mode and that did help a bit, makes the flickering even more noticeable haha. I am glad the whining is not really anything to worry about, that is a relief.

I am checking on eBay/Amazon and other internet retailers, for a bulb. I see pricing for $40-100+. I see just bulbs, then bulb+housing. Obviously I want the Philips bulb not a generic, but is paying the extra $20-30 for a housing necessary? The last time I replaced a bulb in a DLP was 2004. Is it just a few screws, take panel off, pull old housing out, put new housing in? Or if I decide on a bulb only, is that just extra work and unnecessary work to swap bulbs with my current housing?

I appreciate the help. I am trying to look in these forums and google information. But with 130 pages it is not that easy, and google doesn't like this tv too much.

Again, thanks for the replies. The last thing I want is wasted money, or somehow ruining my tv (fiance would figuratively murder me!)

PS. One last thing, sorry it slipped my mind! My fiance ordered this http://www.ebay.com/itm/261163954975?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 as a christmas present for me (I accidentally found out ;(, I swear!). Our tv room is huge, and the built in emitter doesn't really work that well from all seating locations. Will that work with the Sony 3d glasses? We have 12 pairs, and I might have to let her know I know she bought it and have her return it if it wont work with our 92840 or our 3d glasses. Again, I can't thank you guys/girls enough.

You have to be careful with the wording on sites, "OEM replacement" doesn't mean it's OEM. Even though I'm presently trying a $35 lamp with housing, to be safe you should only buy an OEM lamp with housing. You can buy the lamp alone but you should wear gloves as the oil on your hands can harm the lamp. It's not hard to replace just the lamp but compared to a new lamp with housing it's more time consuming. To replace you just take out one screw on the access door then 2 screws on the lamp housing, pretty simple.
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post #3914 of 3969 Old 11-20-2013, 10:58 AM
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I recently replaced my bulb for the second time because of the same flickering issue you are having. I replaced the first bulb (under warranty) about 8 months after purchase and it fixed the flickering for about 6 months.

After some research in this very thread, I found out this issue could be the lamp ballast - found one online for about $95 and since I replaced it, no flickering (with old bulb even).

I don't recommend buying a bulb from anywhere but Mitsu - I had very bad luck with 2 bulbs I bought from elsewhere; one died after 12 hours and the other was about 50% as bright as it should have been (even after an hour).

Unless your good at soldering (I'm not), get the housing. smile.gif
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post #3915 of 3969 Old 11-20-2013, 11:01 AM
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This is where I got my ballast, yours seems to be out of stock at the moment though:
http://www.tvserviceparts.com/938P198010.html

Extremely easy to replace, too. If you need some instructions, let me know!
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post #3916 of 3969 Old 11-20-2013, 11:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alan P View Post

Unless your good at soldering (I'm not), get the housing. smile.gif

There isn't any soldering involved if just replacing the lamp without the housing, there's one screw and one nut for two wires.
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post #3917 of 3969 Old 11-20-2013, 11:27 AM
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My bad....thanks for the clarification. Maybe I'll just by the bulb next time! smile.gif
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post #3918 of 3969 Old 12-11-2013, 09:36 PM
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Hello again. I appreciated all your help a few weeks ago, and I just received my lamp from Mitsubishi on Saturday the 7th.

I figured I would wait to reply until I got my lamp, and boy am I glad I did.

I installed it the Saturday the 7th, the day I got it. I let it warm up to room temp before installing it, and used my Fiances medical gloves for installation.

The new lamp was dim at first. I checked my calibrated settings (to make sure they didn't get wiped) and they were exactly as with my old lamp (with 4k hours on it). But this new bulb was so dim I would have to guess half the brightness at most.

I then took it out of my tv and checked it over, then tossed it back in. It was super bright so I got happy and watched a 3d blu ray to celebrate after a few hours of letting it sit (with tv on). The next day comes and I go to turn it on and I get the red light telling me I need a lamp replacement.


The past few days I have been on the phone with Mits and tinkering with the TV a bunch about this red light issue. My old lamp works like before, but the new one is hit or miss. I will explain as short as possible what is going on.

(This is all with new lamp.)
Turn tv on. Blinking green lights very fast. then Solid red light. I Hold power button (the only thing I can do during solid red light). It blinks green lights fast again (to let me know it is hard resetting/turning off). Turn tv back on and the lamp works fine for as many hours as I want. Turn the tv off again, then I need to mess around with it to get it to work again.

Sometimes no matter what it wont turn on. Other times if I remove and reseat the lamp it works, sometimes that does nothing.

Once in a while the green light is solid after pressing the power button, but if you listen you can hear the tvs fans startup and stay on for 20 seconds, then turn off for 10 seconds, then turn on for another 20 seconds. It repeats on and off fans until the led turns red or starts blinking, then turns red.



With my old lamp working all fine, and the new one being a pain, it has to be the new lamp right?! Mitsubishi refuses to swap this new one for another or give a refund, I really don't have infinite money to keep buying them until one works.


Anyone have any ideas? Could it be the connections to the lamp housing? Or maybe the lamp housing is not connected properly to the lamp?

I really appreciate all the past help, and any future help. I am dying over here without my tv for movies and gaming!!!



PS
Before my lamp showed up, I found out I had two free visit from a Mitsubishi technician (ended up being a local tv/electronics guy) paid for by the place I bought my tv from. So about a week before I got the lamp, I had him come and he checked out my tv (so I knew nothing else was wrong, at the time I just had flickering that was my old lamp dying). He said it was perfect, and the flickering was normal for my lamp at that many hours (a few posts ago I mentioned this problem, and you guys helped me with it. He just reassured me the obvious). He also checked all noises and made sure it was fine before he left. I cannot even ask him back, because my free visits ran out on the 3rd of December when I bought the tv 2 years prior.
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post #3919 of 3969 Old 12-12-2013, 08:30 AM
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Isn't the lamp under warranty? It came with a new housing correct? Are you positive you have it seated properly?
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post #3920 of 3969 Old 12-12-2013, 01:13 PM
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I have only had the lamp for five days. The lamp is identical to the one that came in the tv, aside from one quality check sticker and the rear connection nut is slightly different. The old lamp works every time, so I figured the new lamp was being seated correctly.

Mits won't replace it no matter what. I will paraphrase what they said. "The lamp worked fine at first, just a little dim? Then it worked fine with full brightness? Now it doesn't work at all, or only sometimes? Sounds like you broke the lamp. We won't replace the lamp for user error or mishandling."

Even though it is probably the easiest replacement of any electronic I have done, and I used gloves. They won't do anything because they think their lamp was perfect, and my tv / I ruined it.

I am not really sure what to do from here. Should I try to swap bulbs and housings? Or something like that? To me it really seems like a faulty lamp they shipped, that mits refuses to help with. But I figured I would ask in case of some other possible reason.
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post #3921 of 3969 Old 12-12-2013, 01:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mistawankaz View Post

I have only had the lamp for five days. The lamp is identical to the one that came in the tv, aside from one quality check sticker and the rear connection nut is slightly different. The old lamp works every time, so I figured the new lamp was being seated correctly.

Mits won't replace it no matter what. I will paraphrase what they said. "The lamp worked fine at first, just a little dim? Then it worked fine with full brightness? Now it doesn't work at all, or only sometimes? Sounds like you broke the lamp. We won't replace the lamp for user error or mishandling."

Even though it is probably the easiest replacement of any electronic I have done, and I used gloves. They won't do anything because they think their lamp was perfect, and my tv / I ruined it.

I am not really sure what to do from here. Should I try to swap bulbs and housings? Or something like that? To me it really seems like a faulty lamp they shipped, that mits refuses to help with. But I figured I would ask in case of some other possible reason.

Man, I'd be IRATE!mad.gif Obviously a bad lamp and it should be warranted by Mits for 90 days! Call back and ask for a supervisor.

BTW, if you're talking about the Sony PS3 glasses, YES that emitter should work fine.

Good luck!

Ed
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post #3922 of 3969 Old 12-12-2013, 04:27 PM
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I agree with old corps. This is just a faulty lamp as you know. In retrospect, you would have fared better had you simply said the new lamp failed. Period. I believe they have more information than they needed from you and have thus come to a conclusion in their favor. You should still stick to your guns, however, and escalate this. Sorry you're having to go through this.
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post #3923 of 3969 Old 12-15-2013, 12:06 PM
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Wow! Just thought I'd check the hours on my 2011 73740 ................... 5980!! Still seems fine, but I have noticed that dark detail is very poor. I've got a spare bulb and housing I bought when I first bought the TV, and I'm considering switching it out. It's just a pain to move things around so I can get to the bulb assembly.

Eta: Went back in and reset to Bright, then dialed down brightness, contrast and sharpness; much better, pretty decent image on a bulb that'll hit 6K hours momentarily!
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post #3924 of 3969 Old 12-15-2013, 10:56 PM
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Just over 6k hrs on my original bulb and it started flickering few months back, Then Died Mits sent me another bulb under wrty and wow! like a New TV!
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post #3925 of 3969 Old 12-18-2013, 08:31 PM
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Sorry, I have not checked in on this thread in awhile. My 92840 is doing great at 6200 hours. Now I am 1500 hours probably into lamp 3 running the lamp on Bright all the time. The issue with advanced mode is that 1 it does not put out same level of light as the set does in Bright picture mode. So I am talking about both the lamp on bright and the TV in Bright Picture. Here is the rub, you have to set the grayscale with the GS Color Contrast Controls in the Service Menu so that 100 percent white is pretty close to max brightness in white that the TV will do and let it clip above 100 percent stimulus. How much you clip is your choice and probably dependent to some degree on the individual set and the individual lamp.. Remember I am relying on a Lumagen Radiance to control the color using Auto-Calibration in ChromaPure adjusting the Lumagen. My Lumagen will set 125 colors.

You do need to make sure you have some headroom so it is a good idea to see that at 100 Brightness the Primary Colors are sufficiently bright a little extra is good as that is headroom for the video processor to pull in from. External boxes can not increase gamut nor can they really make the set brighter than it is in white or any of colors. So in the right picture mode Bright, on the Bright lamp mode, you can have a very bright picture with accurate color across the various saturation and brightness levels. Advanced mode has a second problem besides low brightness, blue is undersaturated at Blue 0,0,0 and that is as saturated as it will get... It is kind neon blue. Not very pure at all. More like a crayon.

Bright Picture mode is a gamut that is larger (Oversaturated) or in other word outside the CIE94 Triangle. So the Lumagen can move color saturation down which moves the color points into the triangle. So if the primaries are at or outside the CIE triangle then the software and the Lumagen can decrease maximum saturation but not increase. The set will only do what it do. In Bright Mode you can get your color points right at the various saturation levels and luminance levels. One of the new Lumagens or an EEColor can set approximately 1000 to 4000 colors respectively and interpolate the intermediate colors. With patience you can achieve a nearly perfect calibration with average dEs (color error units) of less than 1. You can not use bright and get the colors correct with the built in controls, well I couldn't.

But with a current Lumagen or EE Color ChromaPure or SpectraCal, LSI can auto-calibrate it. ChromaPure does not support the EEColor.

I use an HTPC for TV.... most would use Windows Media Center. I use JRiver Media Center which allows for a higher quality image.... there are downsides especially with Cable TV, it does not play copy protected content. I can do that in WMC but the levels are right some how and it is darker. Could be a gamma thing. But for non copy protected Cable HD or ATSC HD content the picture quality is very high... I as mentioned before use a Darbee Darblet for extra pop. Later Lumagen with the larger color adjustment have the Darbee routines built-in just as the OPPO 103D

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post #3926 of 3969 Old 01-11-2014, 11:27 PM
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OK, I just bought an 82740, on the way home I had car trouble and had to get a tow.  Long story short, I need a replacement screen for it now!!!  Is there any way of getting one for it???

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post #3927 of 3969 Old 01-15-2014, 02:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Craig Brison View Post

OK, I just bought an 82740, on the way home I had car trouble and had to get a tow.  Long story short, I need a replacement screen for it now!!!  Is there any way of getting one for it???



Wow tough luck... Not sure if this helps and I'm sure you can find it cheaper but here is a screen in stock


http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Mitsubishi-Parts/Television-Parts/Model-WD82740/1404/0333700/50039009/00001?blt=06&prst=0&shdMod=WD-82740
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post #3928 of 3969 Old 01-16-2014, 02:49 AM
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Originally Posted by rtd2 View Post


Wow tough luck... Not sure if this helps and I'm sure you can find it cheaper but here is a screen in stock


http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Mitsubishi-Parts/Television-Parts/Model-WD82740/1404/0333700/50039009/00001?blt=06&prst=0&shdMod=WD-82740

 

Yeah, that was the only place I could find a screen I spent a long time looking for one.  I called a couple of repair shops and they said they couldn't fix it so I bit the bullet and ordered from there.  I have no clue where else to get one, unfortunately.  I wish I did, dropping another 800 bucks on it was not what I wanted to do but I love the TV.  Any idea on DIY manuals for getting the bezel off? 

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post #3929 of 3969 Old 01-17-2014, 09:23 AM
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Don't know the specifics of your "accident"...but shouldn't the tow company be paying for a new TV??
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post #3930 of 3969 Old 01-26-2014, 12:55 PM
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Hey folks,

I'm working with a WD-73740. Bought it in Sep 2011 with 11646 hous on it, wow! Extended warranty just ran out!!!!!!!!!! Up until 3 days ago, it's been running fine.

Problem is it won't keep HDMI sync. IF and WHEN I can get a picture on HDMI, it will go to blue screen (signal loss). Could be 30 seconds or minutes. It seems to be getting worse.

I have;
tried different HDMI cables
tried all 3 different HDMI ports
done a complete TV reset (many times)
done a complete AVR reset
run HDMI straight from source (DVD player, Dish 722k, Laptop, and PC)
Hooked up a 22" VIZIO and it synced up with the AVR HDMI and all components running through it. This should rule out HDMI cables.

I still get a picture through the tuner and component. When I delete the HDMI input, it still auto-detects that something is plugged in and asks me to name it.
It just won't show a picture or if it does, it's just for a little while.

It sounds like the main board is bad to me. I downloaded the service manual and it seems pretty straight forward on how to do it.
After the main board replacement, the service manual says;

1. Perform “Restore Engine Data From Backup” and “Restore Geometry Data From Backup.”
and
2. If the customer has subscribed to VUDU (Internet
program provider), the customer must be instructed to contact VUDU to re-activate their account after the replacement
PWB has been installed. (although to me, there is a service menu item to deactivate VUDU??????????)

What do you folks think?
1. Order and try brand new cables anyway?
2. Should I not mess with it and just suck it up an pay for a technician.
3. Do you also think it's the main board?
If so, do you think I should try to replace it myself? I found new ones on ebay for as little as $75.
If so, do I need to worry about the a charge in the power supply and if so, how to discharge it?


thanks you,
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