2011 Mitsubishi 3D DLP Owners Thread (740/840 series) - Page 133 - AVS Forum
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post #3961 of 3991 Old 06-10-2014, 10:49 AM
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Someday I will clean the mirror on my 92840. Someday, just not today though wink.gif

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post #3962 of 3991 Old 06-10-2014, 12:31 PM
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It's really not hard at all. Now that I know how it comes apart, I'd say the whole process would take about 15 mins.

Here's a pic I just posted in another thread to show where the screws are (on my WD73740) if your curious.



Red screws are in the back, green covered in the front.

It made a huge difference on my TV, but my mirror was exceptionally dirty. biggrin.gif

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post #3963 of 3991 Old 06-10-2014, 12:35 PM
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BTW, to see just how dirty your mirror is - open up one of the side "portholes" and wipe off a section of the mirror.

WARNING: if you do this, you're gonna end up cleaning the whole mirror. wink.gif

Oh yeah, and don't try to clean the whole mirror from the porthole - ask me how I know! tongue.gif

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post #3964 of 3991 Old 06-13-2014, 12:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alan P View Post
BTW, to see just how dirty your mirror is - open up one of the side "portholes" and wipe off a section of the mirror.

WARNING: if you do this, you're gonna end up cleaning the whole mirror.

Oh yeah, and don't try to clean the whole mirror from the porthole - ask me how I know!

It is a bit bigger job with the 92840. I won't even attempt without a couple of people here who are willing to hang in and around for a few hours.

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post #3965 of 3991 Old 06-13-2014, 04:20 PM
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Does the screen attach a lot differently on the 93" vs. the 73"?

For me, it would only take about 15-20 minutes now that I know what I'm doing.
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post #3966 of 3991 Old 06-14-2014, 09:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alan P View Post
Does the screen attach a lot differently on the 93" vs. the 73"?

For me, it would only take about 15-20 minutes now that I know what I'm doing.
Was the cleaning method described earlier?

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post #3967 of 3991 Old 06-16-2014, 08:28 AM
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See this thread, but I didn't really describe the cleaning method - I just used glass cleaner and paper towels.
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post #3968 of 3991 Old 06-27-2014, 03:01 PM
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New Thought: What will be the replacement for our dead Mits'?????????

My 82740 Mits is about 3.5 years old now and 6000 hours on the lamp. What will be the replacement for the cost effective DLP units (paid $1700 new) in the 80+ inch range?????

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post #3969 of 3991 Old 06-27-2014, 11:00 PM
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My 82740 Mits is about 3.5 years old now and 6000 hours on the lamp. What will be the replacement for the cost effective DLP units (paid $1700 new) in the 80+ inch range?????
DLP are no longer being produced, but for other options, see this thread.
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post #3970 of 3991 Old 09-08-2014, 01:40 AM
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Is there a way to disable the power saving mode described below?

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Is there a way to turn off the stupid message or auto-off timer "no signal, the TV turns off in one minute. press cancel key."? I have tried pressing sleep timer to turn off and looking in the menu for any power saving controls or whatever. I have everything working now, but in XBMC regular when watching a 3D movie in Total Media Theatre 3 I have to continuously press a button on the remote because that message keeps popping up and it is infuriating. Is there no way to disconnect the power saving settings part if it cant see the media which is clearly working fine?
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post #3971 of 3991 Old 09-08-2014, 11:36 AM
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I have a WD 82840 that I purchased in Dec 2011 and two days ago it started the constant green blinking light. From reading other posts, I see that other models have had bad caps on the DM power board and replacing those caps has corrected the issue. I believe my set does not have that same board in it. If any one can help please post.
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post #3972 of 3991 Old 09-09-2014, 09:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jesben31 View Post
I have a WD 82840 that I purchased in Dec 2011 and two days ago it started the constant green blinking light. From reading other posts, I see that other models have had bad caps on the DM power board and replacing those caps has corrected the issue. I believe my set does not have that same board in it. If any one can help please post.

Slow or fast blinking? Check your manual. If you have a timer set the green light will blink. I believe it also blinks until the lamp cools down. All are normal functions.
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post #3973 of 3991 Old 09-09-2014, 02:36 PM
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My bad, I have misled you. The set does not turn on and it is a fast blinking green status light. And by timer do you mean the sleep function? Have never used the sleep function on the set or any other timer feature. I have tried holding the power button on the set in for 10 seconds or so, and hear a click sound like it is trying to reset but then it goes back to just blinking the green status light.

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post #3974 of 3991 Old 09-10-2014, 09:53 AM
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Did you try unplugging it for awhile?

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post #3975 of 3991 Old 09-10-2014, 10:09 AM
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Yes, left it unplugged over night, plugged it in next morning and same issue. I think it may be the main board. Still doing research.
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post #3976 of 3991 Old 09-27-2014, 05:52 PM
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Has anyone had one of the 2011 sets repaired under a 3rd party extended warranty? My set is still working fine but I wonder what to expect if I do need to process a warranty claim. I have Square Trade. I bought my set new in December 2011. I wonder what the availability of parts will be like in year or so.


I see displays that might make a reasonable replacement for my 92840 when it dies but they currently are priced way beyond my budget. The Samsung 85" HU8550 is at least close in size but the price is crazy. I just hope my set lasts long enough for a replacement to be somewhat close to the $4K I spent for the 92840 three years ago. Whatever I buy then I know the motion handling will suck.

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post #3977 of 3991 Old 09-29-2014, 09:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gtgray View Post
Has anyone had one of the 2011 sets repaired under a 3rd party extended warranty? My set is still working fine but I wonder what to expect if I do need to process a warranty claim. I have Square Trade. I bought my set new in December 2011. I wonder what the availability of parts will be like in year or so.


I see displays that might make a reasonable replacement for my 92840 when it dies but they currently are priced way beyond my budget. The Samsung 85" HU8550 is at least close in size but the price is crazy. I just hope my set lasts long enough for a replacement to be somewhat close to the $4K I spent for the 92840 three years ago. Whatever I buy then I know the motion handling will suck.
Mitsubishi is required by law to keep a parts inventory for 7 years on discontinued items.

I have an extended warranty, not needed it yet. but wondered the same about a replacement.

Concluded that I will repair my DLP myself as long as parts are available. It's mostly modular in construction and I have gone through the service manual, seems like nothing too daunting there.

When I need to move on though, I'll likely go with a projector. Best value today for larger pictures.

Fortunately I can easily darken my HT.

Larger LCD's today are outrageously priced compared to DLPs. Don't care for backlit LED at all. And I prefer the picture on a well set up DLP.
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post #3978 of 3991 Old 09-29-2014, 10:03 AM
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Quote:
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Mitsubishi is required by law to keep a parts inventory for 7 years on discontinued items...
State Law or Federal Law? Please quote or link to the applicable statute.

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post #3979 of 3991 Old 09-29-2014, 10:14 AM
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Mitsubishi is required by law to keep a parts inventory for 7 years on discontinued items.
I appreciate the input and feedback. You make a number of good points.


While I understand what a law may say, I can tell you that parts availability very often is not in compliance with the law. I have worked many years for computer manufacturers and 7 years of spares doesn't really happen. Also no one dictates at what price out of warranty spares if available will sell. If you only have two spares, you can keep them in stock a long time if you price them to make ordering them massively uneconomic. Hopefully on something as expensive as a 92840 Mits would do a buyback. Hope to never find out.


I will never have a dedicated theater room (sadly) so a projector is not a viable replacement for a TV in my case. I agree with your criticism of LED Lit LCD however size requirement for my viewing distances will ultimately be decisive.


I have a Radiance Lumagen and that fixes the color on the 92840 but it can't fix the black crush or alternately the elevated blacks that one gets on a DLP without an iris. Every technologies has its problems. So changing technologies will have its advantages and disadvantages.


If parts were readily available and at rational prices one could keep one of these displays in service a long time. I am at just under 8K hours. Certainly a $700 light engine would not be a show stopper for me if it bought me two extra years of service life. I run my unit on UPS so I keep my fingers crossed that the PCAs will survive a long time.

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post #3980 of 3991 Old 09-30-2014, 12:17 PM
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Try to make her last a couple more years gtgray. The LG 4K 77" OLED is coming out this month, which by this time next year will be an affordable replacement for my 73" DLP. OLED will be the way to go as it is emissive and doesn't need a backlight or led to light it. That will be a true replacement to our DLP's. Just going to take a couple more years to get the price down.


I don't know how well the 4K OLED's do in 3d though and am very curious about this. DLP has spoiled me in this department with no cross-talk.

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post #3981 of 3991 Old 09-30-2014, 02:18 PM
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Try to make her last a couple more years gtgray. The LG 4K 77" OLED is coming out this month, which by this time next year will be an affordable replacement for my 73" DLP. OLED will be the way to go as it is emissive and doesn't need a backlight or led to light it. That will be a true replacement to our DLP's. Just going to take a couple more years to get the price down.


I don't know how well the 4K OLED's do in 3d though and am very curious about this. DLP has spoiled me in this department with no cross-talk.
According to what I read, the 65" will be around $10k and the 77" will be around $25k. I would say it won't be affordable for at least a couple of years. It gives me time to further break-in my 92842.

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post #3982 of 3991 Old 10-01-2014, 02:19 PM
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3D is not a concern for me. I looked at it once on an 82837 which is now parked in a spare room but never on the 92840.


Reliability is not a hallmark of Mits DLPs in the last years. Rear projectors are the most mechanical of the consumer display technologies and among the most trouble prone. Not inherently fragile but they suffer from marginal cooling/airflow issues and problems overtime from contaminants in that airflow.


They are modular so in that sense they are very repairable but that requires a good supply of spares. I have some flat panel stuff around and I have never had one of them fail. My own history with DLP rear projectors has been good but some of the first units I bought had light engine replacements.


Of course I never spent 4K on a flat panel like I did on the big Mits and even if one my flat panels failed it would be a quick trip to Costco or BestBuy to find a suitable replacement.

No suitable replacement exists for a 92" Rear Projector. One is almost guaranteed a fair amount of downtime if there is a hardware problem. Waiting weeks or months for a spare part would be maddening. So no matter how much I like the big beast I have started to obsess about the inevitable hardware difficulties. At least I wasn't enticed into buying one of the $7k LaserVues when the 75" was being sold.

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post #3983 of 3991 Old 10-30-2014, 09:00 AM
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Hey,

Just joined to share what I think is an issue with my 82-740. I had a wd-73737 a few years ago, bought brand new, and the the TV was amazing, color, brightness, 3d, it all rocked. I sold that a few years ago as I moved into a small apartment.

I am in a new location and recently bought a used 82-740. Looked decent. I got it home, noticed image was kinda of dull, reset all settings. I am kind of disappointed. Replaced bulb. Cleaned screen, cleaned mirror, cleaned lens. Image is a bit better, but not as bright as I remember.

I took the light engine out and cleaned the fans and such as they were incredibly dirty. Think I might find something on the lenses and light tunnel if I dig a bit further? Should I clean more parts? I figured they were fairly enclosed, but, as dirty as the fans where, maybe junk got inside.

I ordered a new bulb and that helped a bit but not much, on really bright images, the screen flickers, just barley, but a little bit. Should I replaced the ballast as well?

Any thoughts?
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post #3984 of 3991 Old 10-30-2014, 09:24 AM
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Quote:
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...Should I replaced the ballast as well?...
Yes.
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post #3985 of 3991 Old 10-30-2014, 10:44 AM
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Think there is a good chance this will brighten my image? Hard to throw money at it....but I suppose it's cheaper then buying an entire new set. And it's not TERRIBLE....but not really that good. I'll look for a ballast after cleaning it tonight. Thanks for the input!
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post #3986 of 3991 Old 10-30-2014, 11:15 AM
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Quote:
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Hey,

Just joined to share what I think is an issue with my 82-740. I had a wd-73737 a few years ago, bought brand new, and the the TV was amazing, color, brightness, 3d, it all rocked. I sold that a few years ago as I moved into a small apartment.

I am in a new location and recently bought a used 82-740. Looked decent. I got it home, noticed image was kinda of dull, reset all settings. I am kind of disappointed. Replaced bulb. Cleaned screen, cleaned mirror, cleaned lens. Image is a bit better, but not as bright as I remember.

I took the light engine out and cleaned the fans and such as they were incredibly dirty. Think I might find something on the lenses and light tunnel if I dig a bit further? Should I clean more parts? I figured they were fairly enclosed, but, as dirty as the fans where, maybe junk got inside.

I ordered a new bulb and that helped a bit but not much, on really bright images, the screen flickers, just barley, but a little bit. Should I replaced the ballast as well?

Any thoughts?
By default the 82" set is not going to be as bright as the 73" because they all use the same wattage of bulb and of course, your covering more screen with the 82" set. I've had the 65", 73", 82" and 92" Mits DLPs and the 65" is by far the brightest because it has the smallest screen.

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post #3987 of 3991 Old 10-30-2014, 11:21 AM
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Did you get an authentic Mits bulb? I tried the cheaper ones and they aren't as bright as the factory replacement bulbs.

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post #3988 of 3991 Old 10-30-2014, 11:36 AM
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I bought from discount merchants. I pulled out a Osram bulb, but the replacement was Phillips, which sounds like is still a good bulb. Am I mistaken?
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post #3989 of 3991 Old 10-30-2014, 11:42 AM
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Also, I thought that the output from the ballast was a little bit higher in regards to voltage to increase light from the bulb? I think I read the bulbs were different voltages, maybe the ballasts are the same between v45+ chassis?
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post #3990 of 3991 Old 10-30-2014, 12:53 PM
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To be honest, I tried three bulbs that were not direct from Mitsu - one lasted about 3 months, one blew after one day, one had about 10% output. Never used any bulbs from anywhere but Mitsubishi since. Their getting pretty expensive though....my last one was about $130 IIRC (with housing).

Have you tried turning it up to "bright" under the Energy setting??
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