2011 Mitsubishi 3D DLP Owners Thread (740/840 series) - Page 137 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #4081 of 4099 Old 11-20-2016, 10:53 PM
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Originally Posted by lu_alum View Post
First time poster... forgive me if this has already been asked & answered...

I have a 73840 and have changed bulbs several times in the past without issue. Recently had a red light inidicator, so I changed the bulb. However, after bulb replacement, I'm still getting a red light. The only way I can get the TV to work is to either unplug or do the 10-second reset via the power button.

Any suggestions? I've seen some mention of a ballast problem in my online research. That appears to be more than I care to bite off, but want to get feedback prior to calling for a service tech.

Thanks in advance...

I'd be willing to bet that you didn't buy the lamp from Mitsubishi. These lamps are not like light bulbs. They need to match the specs of your chassis model. Any aftermarket lamp you buy is a crap shoot as to compatibility with the TV, with many being cheaply made Chinese knockoffs. If the lamp is out of spec, the computer in the TV will fault out. Hopefully, it hasn't damaged your TV. Don't do anything until you replace the lamp with a genuine Mitsubishi lamp. https://mitsuparts.3diamonds.com/Pro...Model/WD-73840

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post #4082 of 4099 Old 11-27-2016, 05:47 PM
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Can anyone explain the red, blue and green high and low settings in advanced mode? I am sitting here for 1 hour and I can NOT find anything about this. This is ridiculous. I am so pissed I can't even explain it.
I have a calibration dvd and i want to mess around each color. There is no way to get the color right with blue filter. Flashing boxes will be either too dark or too bright if I just adjust the color setting itself
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post #4083 of 4099 Old 11-28-2016, 12:16 AM
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Originally Posted by CSOCSO View Post
Can anyone explain the red, blue and green high and low settings in advanced mode? I am sitting here for 1 hour and I can NOT find anything about this. This is ridiculous. I am so pissed I can't even explain it.
I have a calibration dvd and i want to mess around each color. There is no way to get the color right with blue filter. Flashing boxes will be either too dark or too bright if I just adjust the color setting itself
Can't use advanced mode effectively without a meter. Using the filters, shoot for something in between the two extremes. Doesn't the manual explain Perfect Color / Perfect Tint?
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post #4084 of 4099 Old 02-27-2017, 01:07 AM
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mitsubishi 82840

It feels like a longshot that there will still be people trolling this board now that these sets are dinosaurs in tv years. but i need some advice and this seems like it might be the only place that i can find answers without someone trying to sell me a ridiculously expensive repair job. this has probably already been covered somewhere else in this thread but there is way too many pages to read to find the answer.

i've been having a bit of flickering up in the corners during really bright scenes and commercials with a lot of blue in them. during start up my tv would make a sort of rattling squealing noise and sort of a pulsing that went along with the rhythm of the noise. which led me to believe it was a color wheel. then a couple weeks ago my set up and died on me. it won't power on i've tried to reset it and unplug it to no avail. it was flashing the code 6 red 1 yellow. i called mitsubishi and they told me that it is either the color wheel or the light engine. my wife wants me to get rid of it and frankly i think i'm ready to. its a pain to move and replacing the bulb is rather annoying (even though i only just put in my fourth bulb a couple months ago). should i sell it as is? repair it then sell? or repair and keep it?

i love the tv and honestly i don't think i could stand to look at anything smaller than an 82" and be satisfied. but at this point parts are starting to become scarce and very expensive. i'm fairly handy but have very limited and basic knowledge of electronic repair and i don't know if i could allow myself to fork over $500 to repair a tv that is so out of date.

any advice would be greatly appreciated. thank you for your time!
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post #4085 of 4099 Old 02-27-2017, 05:56 AM
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Haven't tried it myself but a buddy replaced his light engine years ago on a smaller Mitsubishi... he didn't seem to have much difficulty with the repair. These days finding the part might be the hardest part.

Might be cheaper and easier to go to an inexpensive projector and a DIY screen

-Aaron
English Way Cinema and Bar - moving on to v3.0... projector time in 2017!
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post #4086 of 4099 Old 02-27-2017, 09:17 AM
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Originally Posted by wd82840 View Post
mitsubishi 82840

It feels like a longshot that there will still be people trolling this board now that these sets are dinosaurs in tv years. but i need some advice and this seems like it might be the only place that i can find answers without someone trying to sell me a ridiculously expensive repair job. this has probably already been covered somewhere else in this thread but there is way too many pages to read to find the answer.

i've been having a bit of flickering up in the corners during really bright scenes and commercials with a lot of blue in them. during start up my tv would make a sort of rattling squealing noise and sort of a pulsing that went along with the rhythm of the noise. which led me to believe it was a color wheel. then a couple weeks ago my set up and died on me. it won't power on i've tried to reset it and unplug it to no avail. it was flashing the code 6 red 1 yellow. i called mitsubishi and they told me that it is either the color wheel or the light engine. my wife wants me to get rid of it and frankly i think i'm ready to. its a pain to move and replacing the bulb is rather annoying (even though i only just put in my fourth bulb a couple months ago). should i sell it as is? repair it then sell? or repair and keep it?

i love the tv and honestly i don't think i could stand to look at anything smaller than an 82" and be satisfied. but at this point parts are starting to become scarce and very expensive. i'm fairly handy but have very limited and basic knowledge of electronic repair and i don't know if i could allow myself to fork over $500 to repair a tv that is so out of date.

any advice would be greatly appreciated. thank you for your time!
I just sold my 73740 a couple weeks ago because I upgraded to a Sony 940D back in Decemeber. After having the 73740 on cragslist and Ebay for a couple months and dropping the price every couple weeks (started at $300), I ended up selling it for $175.

Point being, it is probably not worth it to you to put money into the set before selling as you will most likely not get it back. These old DLPs aren't worth much anymore apparently.
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post #4087 of 4099 Old 04-10-2017, 04:07 PM
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I garbage picked a WD-73740 the other day. Any opinions on this set? It wouldn't start up and I traced the error code to having something to do with cooling, the one cooling fan was entirely blocked with dust so I vacuumed it out and the thing works perfectly fine. Bulb still has good brightness, screen has some minor scratches but not noticable during viewing.

I don't actually need a TV. I didn't seem to find much local interest for it in terms of selling it, At the moment I'm considering just putting it on a table in my basement in case one of my sets takes a dive.
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post #4088 of 4099 Old 04-10-2017, 10:25 PM
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Originally Posted by yrly View Post
I garbage picked a WD-73740 the other day. Any opinions on this set? It wouldn't start up and I traced the error code to having something to do with cooling, the one cooling fan was entirely blocked with dust so I vacuumed it out and the thing works perfectly fine. Bulb still has good brightness, screen has some minor scratches but not noticable during viewing.

I don't actually need a TV. I didn't seem to find much local interest for it in terms of selling it, At the moment I'm considering just putting it on a table in my basement in case one of my sets takes a dive.

Good find. It's worth about $250-$350.

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post #4089 of 4099 Old 04-22-2017, 05:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yrly View Post
I garbage picked a WD-73740 the other day. Any opinions on this set? It wouldn't start up and I traced the error code to having something to do with cooling, the one cooling fan was entirely blocked with dust so I vacuumed it out and the thing works perfectly fine. Bulb still has good brightness, screen has some minor scratches but not noticable during viewing.

I don't actually need a TV. I didn't seem to find much local interest for it in terms of selling it, At the moment I'm considering just putting it on a table in my basement in case one of my sets takes a dive.
Our house got hit by lightning and now my 73740 is giving me the error code 48 which indicates a bad power supply. I read on another forum of a person who had the same error code and said they replaced the power supply with no change to the code. No one listed any solutions, but said it might be the main board as well. The lighting killed my blueray and amp which was hooked up via HDMI to the TV, so I am worried that my main board might be bad. I'm only getting 4.8 volts on pin 1 and nothing on any of the other pins. Does that mean my power supply is bad? Is there any way to test the main board if the power supply is bad? I found power supplies on Ebay, but I don't want to spend the money unless I know for sure that it will fix it. Any help is greatly appreciated.
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post #4090 of 4099 Old 04-23-2017, 03:46 PM
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Hey Yrly,

I tried to PM you, but I can't until I have 15 posts. If my issue turns out to be the main board and I can't find anyone to work on it, would you be interested in selling the guts from your set? I could use the main board and the rest for spares. If so, how much?

Thanks!
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post #4091 of 4099 Old 04-24-2017, 04:14 PM
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I've had no luck finding parts for my 73740. Very frustrating when the TV was purchased new a little under 5 years ago. I heard about a law that stated companies were required by law to keep parts on hand for 7 years on discontinued items. Anyone know if that is true? I would love to get in contact with yrly to see if he is interested in selling parts out of his garbage picked 73740. I just can't PM until I have more post. I hope he doesn't get rid of it before I can contact him.
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post #4092 of 4099 Old 04-25-2017, 10:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Augerhandle View Post
The 73740 is the 2010 model, so it's 7 years old, parts wise.
My 73740 was manufactured in September of 2011.
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post #4093 of 4099 Old 04-25-2017, 11:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Sammysofa View Post
My 73740 was manufactured in September of 2011.

You are correct, the 73738 was the 2010 model. Sorry about that. I will delete my post.

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post #4094 of 4099 Old 04-25-2017, 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Augerhandle View Post
You are correct, the 73738 was the 2010 model. Sorry about that. I will delete my post.
It's no problem! I can't find anything concrete about that 7 year parts law anyway.

I just have to decide if I want to buy a power supply and hope the main board is still good, or just wait until someone has a main board for sale. I just don't want to dump $100.00 for a part, if I need another part that isn't available anywhere.

Anyone have a WD-73740 or 82740 that would be willing to test my main board in your TV?
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post #4095 of 4099 Old 04-26-2017, 01:34 PM
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WD-82740 parts question - WD-73638

WD-82740 Dead?




Hi, I see not much activity here lately but hoping someone might have some insight on issue with my 5yr old WD-82740........ I think it has a bad board or power supply. I've had to replace both years ago on my 65" DLP maybe back in 2009 or so......

Never had a problem w/ my 82" until few months ago - 45 days after squaretrade expired..... Unit would periodically just shut off but never could find a code for the problem as it was very intermittent.....

then one day I turned it on, heard a loud pop and smelled something burnt from the back and never powered on again, no lights or code at all... completely dead now.

Haven't pulled it out yet to check and see what burnt(bulb is fine) cuz it's kind of hard to get to but just wondering if anyone knows the part numbers for the power supply or the main board in this 82" - curious if any parts from my old 65" or a neighbors 73" w/ dots could be recycled for this 82" before I dig into the problems and tear it apart......

I have access to a WD-73638 and hoping it uses same parts as my 82", if anyone knows for sure would be great help before I rip it apart......... have to double check on my 65" model #
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post #4096 of 4099 Old 06-12-2017, 02:36 PM
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Anyone know the correct part # or any substitute number for the DLP chip in a 73740?

Also, I've read that the main reason for failures on these DLP chips is the heat sink tape on them not being very good. I've have a different model Mitsu and the chip in it is still fine. It is about 5 years old. Would it be a good idea to replace the heat sink tape with a thermal paste like Quicksilver? Would that help the longevity of the chip, or should I just leave well enough alone?
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post #4097 of 4099 Old 06-12-2017, 10:47 PM
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Anyone know the correct part # or any substitute number for the DLP chip in a 73740?

Also, I've read that the main reason for failures on these DLP chips is the heat sink tape on them not being very good. I've have a different model Mitsu and the chip in it is still fine. It is about 5 years old. Would it be a good idea to replace the heat sink tape with a thermal paste like Quicksilver? Would that help the longevity of the chip, or should I just leave well enough alone?

Leave it alone. TI made some bad chips and provided replacements to Mitsubishi for free, so it wasn't the heat sink tape.
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post #4098 of 4099 Old 06-13-2017, 03:41 PM
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Leave it alone. TI made some bad chips and provided replacements to Mitsubishi for free, so it wasn't the heat sink tape.
Interesting. I've read about these chips failing in different brand DLP TV sets and different brand projectors ect... Not just Mitsubishi sets. Seems too wide spread to just be some bad chips.

I also found this old post interesting:

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I've heard of people buying new chips and the same thing happens because they used the heat pad again. Then I've heard of people test out the old chip with dead mirrors and replaced the heat pad with artic silver paste or similar and the chip didn't get worse it stayed the same because if the chip is a bad one the mirrors continually get worse.
In my experience when a chip starts to fail, it starts out with 1 or more dots and continually multiplies over time. If the above post is true, then it seems to be proof that at least some chips fail do to the heat pad failing.

The last thing that is making me double think this is a guy I talked to who repairs DLPs. I asked him the same question and he said that the original heat pads were not high quality and overheating was one of the major reasons why these chips fail.

Whether or not these post or the guy actually knows what their talking about.....I have no idea. I'm torn on what to do.

Last edited by Sammysofa; 06-13-2017 at 03:48 PM.
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post #4099 of 4099 Old 06-14-2017, 01:14 AM
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Interesting. I've read about these chips failing in different brand DLP TV sets and different brand projectors ect... Not just Mitsubishi sets. ..

Exactly. The common denominator is the chip. I wouldn't think the same heat sink material would be used by every manufacturer. There are several options for heat sink brands, but only one for the chip.


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