2011 Mitsubishi 3D DLP Owners Thread (740/840 series) - Page 46 - AVS Forum
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post #1351 of 3975 Old 01-15-2012, 05:10 PM
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Originally Posted by oglk View Post

Any idea what their warrenty is like im on my phone so kind of a pain to signup and check. Was going to go with the 73 from amazon and buy their 3yr warrenty but after seeing that price for 8270 on dell and it including 2 pairs of glasses might have to rethink my choice lol

The rebate for the glasses says it is good from oct. 2 to oct 15 2011.
So it isn't any good.
http://accessories.us.dell.com/sna/rebates/A5128560.pdf
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post #1352 of 3975 Old 01-15-2012, 05:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Nofears View Post

Yes and Yes

But why though? I mean i guess im trying to understand that if the tv guts are the same almost in terms of display, how does the clear screen change from a matte "that" much?

I mean im not saying youre not right, but to say they are a big difference....that to me then spells that the 740 model is crappy in comparison, thats how i interpret that really. And im anal about it because it is going to be a blind purchase when i pull the trigger.

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post #1353 of 3975 Old 01-15-2012, 06:25 PM
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Thank you, Rick...

I don't know how blu-ray is supposed to look on DLP, but I'm finding that the NFL games I just watched on CBS and FOX in HD look MUCH better than the blu-ray I'm watching right now. Is it supposed to be like that?

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Originally Posted by stebrock View Post

Yes the 82740 includes VUDU. I connected the tv to my router and then selected internet on the remote. Didn't need to sign up already had a VUDU account that was recognized as soon as I entered my email and password thru the TV.
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post #1354 of 3975 Old 01-15-2012, 07:32 PM
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Could be your settings.

Are you talking about some blueray dvds or all of them? If you have Avatar blueray put that in and see how it looks. If you don't have Avatar use Speed Racer(yes I know cheesy movie but looks outstanding) or some other high quality blueray dvd.

If that does not look better check the settings on your tv and blueray dvd player.

If you use two different hdmi cables switch them out.

Do you run all the hdmi cables into your receiver and then run one hdmi cable to the tv?

If yes run the hdmi from your blueray player to your tv.

Plug your blueray player into a different hdmi port/slot on the reciever.

Reverse the blueray player and cable box hdmi cables.
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post #1355 of 3975 Old 01-15-2012, 07:43 PM
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I have my blu ray HDMI'd to my TV. I wanted to put it through my receiver but for some reason I couldn't get that to work.

Standard DVD looks just as good, if not better...very grainy on blu ray...screen looks splotchy with reds.

HD over the air blows away blu ray...it is no contest and I was just curious if it was supposed to be like that.

I've only watched one blu ray, ever, and that was just a few moments ago...immediately compared it to standard DVD. Not much difference. Not a fan of blu ray if this is all she can do.



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Originally Posted by jjbbssll View Post

Could be your settings.

Are you talking about some blueray dvds or all of them? If you have Avatar blueray put that in and see how it looks. If you don't have Avatar use Speed Racer(yes I know cheesy movie but looks outstanding) or some other high quality blueray dvd.

If that does not look better check the settings on your tv and blueray dvd player.

If you use two different hdmi cables switch them out.

Do you run all the hdmi cables into your receiver and then run one hdmi cable to the tv?

If yes run the hdmi from your blueray player to your tv.

Plug your blueray player into a different hdmi port/slot on the reciever.

Reverse the blueray player and cable box hdmi cables.

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post #1356 of 3975 Old 01-15-2012, 08:21 PM
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What blueray dvd?

I bought Saving Private Ryan Sapphire Series blueray dvd edition which is the worst video quality blueray or regular dvd I have ever seen. It just looks terrible so if the movie was transferred to blueray it could look no better than the regular dvd or in this case worse.

Speed Racer, Avatar, and Troy(Brad Pitt, Eric Bana) are all visually outstanding and if you can rent them they should look great.

Did you try switching the blueray player and cable box hdmi cables on the tv. If cable box hdmi cable is plugged into hdmi 1 and blueray player is plugged into hdmi 2 then switch the hdmi cables and see it that helps.

Check the setting on your tv for hdmi 1 & 2 and compare the settings.
Double check all settings on tv and blueray player.

I am sure someone else with have other ideas.
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post #1357 of 3975 Old 01-15-2012, 08:48 PM
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Try moving the blueray hdmi cable to a third hdmi input on the tv and if you have a blue ray set up dvd like

Spears & Munsil High Definition Benchmark Blu-ray dvd set up disc

use it.

Then try the same blueray dvd you tried first and unless the transfer is a bad one it should look much better.

If this works then try renting one of the blueray dvds I mentioned and they will look outstanding!
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post #1358 of 3975 Old 01-16-2012, 04:50 AM
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Can anyone expound on the matte screen vs clear contrast a little more? I mean as someone said the difference is "big"...but i need to know how big and or why, i guess my point is when someone says the difference is big it almost makes it as if anything with a matte screen is obsolete perhaps...but if someone really breaks it down to that it leans a little more to preference maybe when the comparisons are made, it will help me with my purchase.

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post #1359 of 3975 Old 01-16-2012, 05:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Savatage316 View Post

Can anyone expound on the matte screen vs clear contrast a little more? I mean as someone said the difference is "big"...but i need to know how big and or why, i guess my point is when someone says the difference is big it almost makes it as if anything with a matte screen is obsolete perhaps...but if someone really breaks it down to that it leans a little more to preference maybe when the comparisons are made, it will help me with my purchase.

If I were you, I would go over to the nearest store that has both and compare them yourself unless you don't have one nearby?

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post #1360 of 3975 Old 01-16-2012, 05:46 AM
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Originally Posted by lujan View Post

If I were you, I would go over to the nearest store that has both and compare them yourself unless you don't have one nearby?

Believe me id do that but alot of places around here dont physically have the models i want in stock. Like they might have the 738s MAYBE and even then i cant really find much of anything.

But yea, i would of done this already if it were an option

What i think would be nice is to see side by side pic comparions from people who have a 740 and from people who have an 840....id love to see the comparisons like two seperate pics obviously.

Maybe ill do that when i have time to dig through this whole thread, but if anyone can somehow dig up good camera pics of both models in action...that would be a tremendous help.

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post #1361 of 3975 Old 01-16-2012, 08:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Savatage316 View Post

Believe me id do that but alot of places around here dont physically have the models i want in stock. Like they might have the 738s MAYBE and even then i cant really find much of anything.

But yea, i would of done this already if it were an option

What i think would be nice is to see side by side pic comparions from people who have a 740 and from people who have an 840....id love to see the comparisons like two seperate pics obviously.

Maybe ill do that when i have time to dig through this whole thread, but if anyone can somehow dig up good camera pics of both models in action...that would be a tremendous help.


It's tough, I know. Big decision.

As far as photos go, I do have that one shot of Underworld off of HBO that's posted along with the others in my album that's linked a couple of pages back. But you really can't go by photos that people take unfortunately. There are so many variables like the kind of camera, the room lighting, the quality of the photo itself etc.

I haven't compared the 740 and 840 sets side-by-side, but I did spend a good amount of time in front of the 840 at my local HH Gregg before I bought my 740. I had the same concerns as you. I can tell you this.

Because of my career, I have spent hundreds of hours in editing suites and telecine (color correction) bays. I have sat there and had the colorist tweak the individual colors by minuscule amounts. I have spent countless hours in front of industry-standard NTSC perfectly calibrated professional monitors. And to my eye, the picture quality on the 740 is fantastic. At least a 9 out of 10 (assuming correct viewing angle and properly calibrated to match the NTSC monitors). Is the 840 a 10 out 10? Even perfectly calibrated, I'd say not. The new Sharp Elite or the old standard Kuro would most likely be a 10.

I'd say it all depends on how much of a perfectionist you are and how much you're willing to spend to make things just a little better. For me, it wasn't worth the difference that the 840 would have cost. Because of the Black Friday deal I got, the 840 would have cost me about double. But I have been known to spend a lot for a marginal difference. I added a second Trinity sub for a difference that honestly I'm probably the only person I know can detect.

I'd recommend that you shop around for best prices on both the 740 and the 840. Then look at the difference in price and ask yourself if that amount is worth a possible slight increase in picture quality. Allowing for the fact that the 840 I examined at HH Gregg was most definitely not properly calibrated, I'd still say that it's difficult to imagine a picture THAT much better than the 740 on the 840. Even the Sharp Elite isn't THAT much better.

Good luck.
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post #1362 of 3975 Old 01-16-2012, 08:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Savatage316 View Post

Can anyone expound on the matte screen vs clear contrast a little more? I mean as someone said the difference is "big"...but i need to know how big and or why, i guess my point is when someone says the difference is big it almost makes it as if anything with a matte screen is obsolete perhaps...but if someone really breaks it down to that it leans a little more to preference maybe when the comparisons are made, it will help me with my purchase.

Pictures are tough. You really need a tripod to do a good job, and for a comparison it would be best to have the same camera photographing both TV's under the same lighting conditions. Most of us couldn't help you there even if we tried. If you can't see the TV's, then your next best option is to read posts on this thread and on the 92" owners thread (there are a few photos posted in October and November), and then decide for yourself. There is a lot of discussion on both threads of the difference the Clear Contrast screen makes. I don't agree that the reflective screen makes matte screens obsolete or that they don't have good pictures. My previous TV was a 73833, with a matte screen, and it had an excellent picture. To me, that would be like saying turbo-charged engines make other models obsolete. It is a risk-reward ratio. The reflective screen produces a significantly brighter, sharper, clearer image. Several people have written that there is a substantial difference with the new screens, and my own experience bears that out. There is more contrast and colors stand out more clearly. But it also costs more and is slightly more sensitive to external light.

If you are trying to be economical, there are a lot of people on this thread who can tell you that the 82740 produces a very good quality picture, and that Dell price I saw yesterday looks pretty hard to beat. If you are a purist, looking for the best available picture in an 82" size, then the more expensive 82840 will reward your expenditure. A lot depends on just how demanding your own eyes and standards are, and on how far your budget will stretch. I don't really think that anyone but yourself will be able to help you a lot more with this decision. I wish I could think of a way to help you more.


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post #1363 of 3975 Old 01-16-2012, 08:39 AM
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Thanks for the info guys.

I think what hurts me is im not into tv tech other than when im buying, so for me i dont know the ins and outs really and i guess when i think of clear contrast screen and a matte screen im having a hard time thinking what the difference could be like and really what exactly is meant by a matte screen and if ive dealt with them before. Like here let me ask you this, i have the HLS6187W model currently...is the clear screen something similar to what this model has if you may know?

I think for me i automatically dont understand how screens make that much difference if the engines are pretty much the same in these tvs for the most part, so thats just me lacking that type of knowledge really.

Im sure for what i want the 740 will be fine, but im always bad with purchasing because i feel as if ill sit and go "hmm what if"...and i hate that i cant find a store with these models in it.

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post #1364 of 3975 Old 01-16-2012, 09:24 AM
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So I got the 92840 a month or two ago, since then I have been looking up everything about overscan that I can with these TV's. My issue is I like to use my PC with the TV and in particular play some PC games at times. After doing the research I realize that the overscan is built into to the TV's purposefully, and that unlike with DLP Projectors, the lenses on DLP TV's are fixed so there is no way to reduce the overscan (at least not without destroying the picture by using geometry). I am also aware that while you can utilize desktop re-sizing on a computer to eliminate overscan you do lose sharpness as you are reducing the pixel count of your desktop; not to mention the fact that you cannot use any form of re-sizing on a computer if you intend to play 3D content as HDMI 1.4 only allows for 1920x1080 or 1280x768, and even if you force the 3D vision support instead of using Nvidia 3d Play, a change of the resolution (desktop re-sizing) will break 3D on the TV as the checkerboard format requires 1 to 1 pixel mapping.

Now, when I try to play any game what-so-ever on the PC or even the playstation 3, many elements of the HUD generally get cut off. As far as I thought, the amount of overscan built into these DLP's was supposed to be around 3%, which is not that much real-estate on an image. This seemed to contradict what I was seeing (having whole elements getting cut off on the screen). For this reason I created a series of test images so I could calculate exactly what percentage of overscan my TV has. I was shocked to find that my 92840 has an overscan of around 6.5%. That is well beyond even broadcastings concept of "Do not place any information within the outer 5% of a screen" that gets applied to both movies and videos as they take overscan into consideration during development.

My question is simple if any don't mind providing their input. Is 6.5% overscan outrageously high for this TV? Or is this common for Mitsubishi DLP's. It seems like a significant waste of signal, generally 3% is more than enough overscan, the recommended from what I could tell online is somewhere in the 2% to 2.5% range. I just feel like not only am I missing content when using a PC or PS3, but even with broadcasting and movies I am losing clarity as with less overscan there would be a greater pixel density and therefor clearer picture.

Thank you for any input or feedback!
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post #1365 of 3975 Old 01-16-2012, 10:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Savatage316 View Post

But why though? I mean i guess im trying to understand that if the tv guts are the same almost in terms of display, how does the clear screen change from a matte "that" much?

I mean im not saying youre not right, but to say they are a big difference....that to me then spells that the 740 model is crappy in comparison, thats how i interpret that really. And im anal about it because it is going to be a blind purchase when i pull the trigger.

You have to understand that the matte screen on the 82740 is high gain. That means it makes compromises to achieve extra brightness. Those compromises are in sharpness and in viewing angle. The high gain screen is highly directional. The matte screen on the 73" is not a high gain screen. Because the clear screen is much brighter and sharper and is not using the trick of high gain. It naturally is sharper and bright than the matte screen used on the smaller 73" dispaly and way brighter and sharper than the matte screen on the 82". The light engines could be tweaked slightly by Mits to optimize for the clear screen. We don't really know that. If they are it would porobably be in the mirror. The hardware is essentially the same. The 82737 and 82838 had a dynamic iris which improved the blacks on those sets but the cost was additional reduction in max white. Mits has done away with the dynamic iris in the 2011 sets. My 92840 makes way more light than my 82837 does and this is because it does not have either the dynamic iris or the high gain matte screen. We don't know if Mits is able to leave the mirros on longer or other electronic tricks to increase brightness. If you buy a 92" you get the clear screen. Only on the 82" do you have a choice. If I was buying an 82" and my room lighting was compatible, then hands down I would go for the clear screen. The sound bar and the other little feature differences don't amount to a hill of beans in my eyes. Only the screen... and if your room doesn't have reasonable light control, the clear screen could be problematic.


One of things about the high gain matte screen on the 82740 and its 2010 and 2009 cousins is that the screen causes some slight color misconvergence. You can see it on test patterns. That is probably a big part of the sharpness difference. Also the high gain screen is very fussy about stand height.

The clear screen doesn't do this (color misconvergence). The down side of the clear screen is in darker content or just large black parts of the screen during bright content you may see some reflections depending on your room lighting. This is typical of some plasmas and some clear screen LED/LCDS. Mits should use a high quality filter coating on the clear screen but maybe it is not cost effective for them.

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post #1366 of 3975 Old 01-16-2012, 10:12 AM
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Originally Posted by CaptainTaco View Post

So I got the 92840 a month or two ago, since then I have been looking up everything about overscan that I can with these TV's. My issue is I like to use my PC with the TV and in particular play some PC games at times. After doing the research I realize that the overscan is built into to the TV's purposefully, and that unlike with DLP Projectors, the lenses on DLP TV's are fixed so there is no way to reduce the overscan (at least not without destroying the picture by using geometry). I am also aware that while you can utilize desktop re-sizing on a computer to eliminate overscan you do lose sharpness as you are reducing the pixel count of your desktop; not to mention the fact that you cannot use any form of re-sizing on a computer if you intend to play 3D content as HDMI 1.4 only allows for 1920x1080 or 1280x768, and even if you force the 3D vision support instead of using Nvidia 3d Play, a change of the resolution (desktop re-sizing) will break 3D on the TV as the checkerboard format requires 1 to 1 pixel mapping.

Now, when I try to play any game what-so-ever on the PC or even the playstation 3, many elements of the HUD generally get cut off. As far as I thought, the amount of overscan built into these DLP's was supposed to be around 3%, which is not that much real-estate on an image. This seemed to contradict what I was seeing (having whole elements getting cut off on the screen). For this reason I created a series of test images so I could calculate exactly what percentage of overscan my TV has. I was shocked to find that my 92840 has an overscan of around 6.5%. That is well beyond even broadcastings concept of "Do not place any information within the outer 5% of a screen" that gets applied to both movies and videos as they take overscan into consideration during development.

My question is simple if any don't mind providing their input. Is 6.5% overscan outrageously high for this TV? Or is this common for Mitsubishi DLP's. It seems like a significant waste of signal, generally 3% is more than enough overscan, the recommended from what I could tell online is somewhere in the 2% to 2.5% range. I just feel like not only am I missing content when using a PC or PS3, but even with broadcasting and movies I am losing clarity as with less overscan there would be a greater pixel density and therefor clearer picture.

Thank you for any input or feedback!

When I run a test pattern I see about 2.5-3 percent overscan. I don't really get what you are looking at.

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post #1367 of 3975 Old 01-16-2012, 10:17 AM
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On the matte versus clear screen... the difference is dramatic. It is not subtle at all. The sharpness of clear screen is just a game changer on these bigger displays.

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post #1368 of 3975 Old 01-16-2012, 10:35 AM
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I got a HTPC (win7/64-bit) feeding the Mitsubishi DLP WD-82740 via HDMI cable. I got TMT5/PowerDVD11 programs and a 3D movie on my HD (ISO file which I mount and shows up as a DVD drive). I also got a Blu-ray drive in my PC. Can you please tell me the steps involved and the settings you have on your PC and the TV? What kind of video card do you have?
Thanks,
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post #1369 of 3975 Old 01-16-2012, 10:42 AM
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Originally Posted by z_zk_z View Post

I got a HTPC (win7/64-bit) feeding the Mitsubishi DLP WD-82740 via HDMI cable. I got TMT5/PowerDVD11 programs and a 3D movie on my HD (ISO file which I mount and shows up as a DVD drive). I also got a Blu-ray drive in my PC. Can you please tell me the steps involved and the settings you have on your PC and the TV? What kind of video card do you have?
Thanks,

Are you going through a receiver or straight to the TV? How is audio being handled?

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post #1370 of 3975 Old 01-16-2012, 11:11 AM
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When I run a test pattern I see about 2.5-3 percent overscan. I don't really get what you are looking at.

I made an image that would allow me to see exactly how many pixels are lost due to overscan. However, you are probably more familiar with the test patterns in the service menu, so I should mention what I see in those. When viewing the geometry alignment pattern, the only line I am able to see is the yellow line (which I believe is the 10% overscan indicator) The other lines are outside of the screen, unable to be seen. The other lines being the Red (4%), White (5%), green (6%) and Cyan (7%). Based of you indicating you have an overscan of about 2.5-3 percent I take it I am not wrong in thinking the overscan is a bit extreme on my TV?

I appreciate your input!

EDIT: Then again, I am basing my knowledge of the overscan percentages in the service menu off an older service manual because I cannot seem to find the service manual for the WD-92840, they may have changed what percentage each color line in the test pattern indicates. Any help is greatly appreciated.
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post #1371 of 3975 Old 01-16-2012, 11:27 AM
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I have the problem with connecting to a HDMI satellite receiver and DVD player. Lights up blue screen.

Moreover, the component of signal is available.

Before the update 13.05 also did not mount SONY PS3, but after installing the update SONY PS3 play only game OK, but DVD\\BlueRay video not play.

Give that to take? I tried different types of HDMI cables.

Everything became clear. The device for HDMI out video in 1080 50Hz, and the TV only supports 1080 60Hz (24,30).

I am sure that the reception of 50Hz blocked by software. Can the manufacturer to update the firmware? After all, these TVs are not buying in the U.S. alone.
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post #1372 of 3975 Old 01-16-2012, 11:39 AM
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I have the problem with connecting to a HDMI satellite receiver and DVD player. Lights up blue screen.

Moreover, the component of signal is available.

Before the update 13.05 also did not mount SONY PS3, but after installing the update SONY PS3 play only game OK, but DVD\\BlueRay video not play.

Give that to take? I tried different types of HDMI cables.

Everything became clear. The device for HDMI out video in 1080 50Hz, and the TV only supports 1080 60Hz (24,30).

I am sure that the reception of 50Hz blocked by software. Can the manufacturer to update the firmware? After all, these TVs are not buying in the U.S. alone.

I have my PS3 connected just fine using 13.05, plays games, Blu-ray, and Blu-ray 3D just fine. Did you run the "Display Configuration" over again in the PS3 menu after hooking it up to your TV? The PS3 needs to detect what signals are accepted by your TV, it does this when you reconfigure the display output settings. If you cannot see anything on the screen (blue screen) you can reset the display manually by holding the power button on the PS3 down until it beeps 3 times. This is the equivalent of re-configuring through the menu options.
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post #1373 of 3975 Old 01-16-2012, 11:43 AM
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I have the problem with connecting to a HDMI satellite receiver and DVD player. Lights up blue screen.

Moreover, the component of signal is available.

Before the update 13.05 also did not mount SONY PS3, but after installing the update SONY PS3 play only game OK, but DVD\\BlueRay video not play.

Give that to take? I tried different types of HDMI cables.

Everything became clear. The device for HDMI out video in 1080 50Hz, and the TV only supports 1080 60Hz (24,30).

I am sure that the reception of 50Hz blocked by software. Can the manufacturer to update the firmware? After all, these TVs are not buying in the U.S. alone.

So you have component video but no hdmi?

Where did you purchase your PS3? And where did you purchase the movie you are trying to play? You mentioned 50Hz so I'm wondering if you are having more than 1 issue...such as Region code issues with the DVD/Blu Ray disc & compatibility of your HDMI sources.

Try to configure all of your HDMI devices to output 60Hz where possible (i.e. 1080i60, 1080p60, 720p60).
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post #1374 of 3975 Old 01-16-2012, 12:16 PM
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Im from RUSSIA. 50Hz - normal HDMI output!

A number of devices that are sold in Russia, including SONY PS3 derive exactly the video in the format of 50Hz. They do not switch to 60Hz for DVD\\BD. Switch to 60Hz normal for Game Mode.

Equipment that is switching to 1080p 60zh I switched and I look fine.
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post #1375 of 3975 Old 01-16-2012, 12:23 PM
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Went ahead pulled trigger on 73in so now my question is about the glasses. Iv seen the xpand x103's mentioned quite a bit. Is the general consensus that they work the best with the 2011 models? And if so how well will they fit for children on rare occastions they watch something (6yr & 11yr olds) im also a pretty small guy myself. I seen a pair in the packaging at Sears the other night and they looked quite big. Or is theyre a better choice if needing 2 pair of kids glasses.
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post #1376 of 3975 Old 01-16-2012, 12:48 PM
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Went ahead pulled trigger on 73in so now my question is about the glasses. Iv seen the xpand x103's mentioned quite a bit. Is the general consensus that they work the best with the 2011 models? And if so how well will they fit for children on rare occastions they watch something (6yr & 11yr olds) im also a pretty small guy myself. I seen a pair in the packaging at Sears the other night and they looked quite big. Or is theyre a better choice if needing 2 pair of kids glasses.

They are quite big... My girlfriend is rather small and finds them to be fairly uncomfortable, I don't have any issue with them, though I find Nvidia's 3D glasses to be more comfortable, they of course are not compatible with Mitsubishi TV's, but was just using it as a reference. I was looking into the X104's now as they seem to come in multiple sizes, kids included, and are apparently a lot lighter. The seller for me is that they are rechargeable and the X103's are not, of course they are also more money than the x103's...
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post #1377 of 3975 Old 01-16-2012, 01:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AlexSh1 View Post

Im from RUSSIA. 50Hz - normal HDMI output!

A number of devices that are sold in Russia, including SONY PS3 derive exactly the video in the format of 50Hz. They do not switch to 60Hz for DVD\\BD. Switch to 60Hz normal for Game Mode.

Equipment that is switching to 1080p 60zh I switched and I look fine.

Mitsubishi DLP TVs are not sold world wide, only in the United States and maybe Canada and Mexico. The TVs are 60Hz Video only (and 24Hz/30Hz for 1080p) and it is doubtful they will introduce special software for 50Hz video since they do not sell these TVs in 50Hz territories. Mitsubishi has only two territories for TVs, US and Japan.

They do sell video projectors and monitors in 50Hz Video territories and those support 50Hz video but they do not sell TVs (have tuners built in) in those territories. They do not seem to selling "rear" projection monitors (without tuners) anywhere.
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post #1378 of 3975 Old 01-16-2012, 01:43 PM
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For any one still on the fence about the 82840 with clear contrast screen, I just got back from HHgreg and they are on sale at 1999.99. I had bought a 73840 from them and had a couple issues so they allowed me to upgrade to the 82840 for a couple hundred less than advertised. Hopefully all will go well here on out and will receive it this Friday.
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post #1379 of 3975 Old 01-16-2012, 01:49 PM
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For any one still on the fence about the 82840 with clear contrast screen, I just got back from HHgreg and they are on sale at 1999.99. I had bought a 73840 from them and had a couple issues so they allowed me to upgrade to the 82840 for a couple hundred less than advertised. Hopefully all will go well here on out and will receive it this Friday.

What area of the country are you in if you dont mind me asking?

I saw that deal as well but its only in-store & local delivery only (i.e. can't pick it up myself). None of the stores I called within 300 miles of me had one either.

Thats a fantastic deal you got there. I tried to get it but still not a bad one thru Walts.
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post #1380 of 3975 Old 01-16-2012, 02:48 PM
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What area of the country are you in if you dont mind me asking?

I saw that deal as well but its only in-store & local delivery only (i.e. can't pick it up myself). None of the stores I called within 300 miles of me had one either.

Thats a fantastic deal you got there. I tried to get it but still not a bad one thru Walts.

Southeast GA area. The sign did say limited quantites.
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