Originally Posted by njfoses
gtgray, regarding your previous mits sets would you calibrate on natural color low or natural color high. I just replaced the bulb in my 73835 and will be calibrating again once i get some hours on it. Im waiting to see the changes in this years 92" before jumping in. Anyways I always started with natural low but have read some other people with mits have had success starting with natural high. Any opinion on this?
Well, first is I use a video processor, so if I was going to use a preset mode on a 2011 I would work from Natural and use Low Color Temp as the starting point. If I was not using a video processor then I would work from Advanced mode and manually set the grayscale. In either case calibration to me means a useful meter and software.
I use ChromaPure Professional and the ChromaPure Display Pro 3 with a proper table for rear projection DLP with UHP lamp. Because I have those particular tools and the DVDO DUO Video Processor I can run auto-calibration, itis brain dead simple to do an auto-calibrate.
I do begin in the Natural preset, lamp on Bright, and use the Low Color Temperature setting as a starting point.
I have never bothered on the 2011 to see how close the factory grayscale is but I know "Low" is much closer to 6500K than High which is way too blue,
When I get a little time I intend to do a manual calibration using 75% Saturation. I have measured the saturation tracking but I get the feeling that while these sets get very, very close to target on color at 100 percent saturation, they colors on lightly saturated scenes do not look natural. ChromaPure has an advanced color mode for checking this. That AVS 709 disk has patterns to support that. It is not uncommon for sets to exhibit this behavior. Sadly, that is something you must manually compensate for and it takes auto-calibration out of the running.
I will measure for undersaturation at the lower levels of saturation. The idea here would be that a 100 percent stimulus75% red color might only 60 percent red etc.. This creates an odd situation because normally you calibrated at 100 percent saturation. The idea being if 100 percent is right than lower saturations should be fine. This is true if the internal Color Management Systems works right...
I will get around to measuring this soon. Basically you check all 6 colors each at 25, 50, 75 and 100% saturations and if the set works right you should have essentially about the same amount error in each color at each saturation level. The common work around if this is not the case is to adjust the set at 75% saturation and let the deeper colors be slightly oversaturated.