2011 Mitsubishi 3D DLP Owners Thread (740/840 series) - Page 67 - AVS Forum
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post #1981 of 3975 Old 02-16-2012, 09:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sftl97 View Post

I received my 82840 a few days ago and it looks great, except for SD broadcast which look absolutely terrible. I'm happy with the tv but have a question, does anyone have any suggestions for the speakers settings? I noticed that the speakers don't sound really all that good, sounds weak.
I was watching the FX channel showing of StarTrek and it sounded down right awful. Am i missing something on the settings?

So did you first try the Microphone setup as shown on page 23 of the owner's guide? I only ask because so many people do not open the book and often miss these setups and you did not mention what you have tried.

Also make sure you select the correct AUDIO button setup of Surround vs. Stereo.

Adding a sub-woofer will always improve the audio as well. Good bass comes from larger speakers.
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post #1982 of 3975 Old 02-16-2012, 01:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by enthuzist View Post

It looks like HHGregg has gone up to $1940 for the 82840. Is there a better deal anywhere else right now?

That's only $140.00 more than I paid for my 82740 so if you have an HHGregg near you, I would jump at it. I don't have one anywhere near me and they only sell them at the store for these prices.

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post #1983 of 3975 Old 02-16-2012, 02:08 PM
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just got my 82840 and will do a more thorough evaluation tomorrow.

First glance has minor geometry issues. horizontal lines are straight but have a 3/8 inch drop from left to right.

Vertical lines pull inward on the outer edged by about 3/8 inch.


Uneven overscan is what surprised me most:
Right: 4%
Top: 5%
Bottom: 5%
Left: 6%

not a tragedy, but a little annoying.

I can see green halos on black-white transitions, but not from my viewing distance.

B/W sharpness is good with 1:1 pixel mapping.
Will evalute colors later.
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post #1984 of 3975 Old 02-16-2012, 03:19 PM
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The very first screen of the service menu has H and V positions, you can center better if you want but i may affect 1:1 pixel display. Note the numbers before you adjust just in case. Once there just use the arrow buttons to adjust.
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post #1985 of 3975 Old 02-17-2012, 06:35 AM
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I'm pretty sure H/V adjustment won't affect 1-to-1 mapping, because it shifts in exactly 1 pixel increments. (Of course, total 1920x1080 mapping isn't preserved, but the pixels shifted off the edge of that map are outside the overscan line.)

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post #1986 of 3975 Old 02-17-2012, 09:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MKaram View Post

"B/W sharpness is good with 1:1 pixel mapping."

MKaram, can you explain how you enable 1:1 pixel mapping?
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post #1987 of 3975 Old 02-17-2012, 11:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TripleBlack88 View Post

MKaram, can you explain how you enable 1:1 pixel mapping?

- Press MENU, 2, 4, 5, 7 (service menu appears),
- Press zero (another menu appears),
- Scroll down to MANUAL GEOMETRY ALIGNMENT,
- ENTER (corrected geometry graph appears)
- Press 1 to clear the geometry correction
- ENTER to save that setting
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post #1988 of 3975 Old 02-17-2012, 11:49 AM
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Thanks... I adjusted my geometry last week, so I'll enable the 1:1 and see if the picture looks any different.
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post #1989 of 3975 Old 02-17-2012, 11:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TripleBlack88 View Post

Thanks... I adjusted my geometry last week, so I'll enable the 1:1 and see if the picture looks any different.

1:1 mapping will, necessarily, clear your geometry correction.
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post #1990 of 3975 Old 02-17-2012, 01:14 PM
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Some thing has has not been mentioned.

In the service sub-menu after pressing the 0, there are other options besides manual geometery adjustment. There is also "restore geometery from back" which will return the TV to the out of the carton condition, the geometery correction the factory did before shipping. Any correction you do at home or even turning off correction is revesred by this feature.

There is also "Save Engine and Geometery to backup". If you do a correction and use the "Save ... to backup", this replaces the factory correction with your correction. Using this save will "replace" the factory corrections with you corrections.
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post #1991 of 3975 Old 02-17-2012, 04:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thhowl View Post

I'm pretty sure H/V adjustment won't affect 1-to-1 mapping, because it shifts in exactly 1 pixel increments. (Of course, total 1920x1080 mapping isn't preserved, but the pixels shifted off the edge of that map are outside the overscan line.)

How have you verified that the steps you posted enable 1:1 pixel mapping with no post-processing in the set?

I can't find documentation on this from Mits anywhere. Are you speculating?
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post #1992 of 3975 Old 02-17-2012, 06:38 PM
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So using the WOW disc, testing the zone plates, I get artifacts after turning sharpness to zero and disabling factory geometry. This implies to me that do not have 1:1 pixel mapping.... will follow up
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post #1993 of 3975 Old 02-17-2012, 07:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MKaram View Post

1:1 mapping will, necessarily, clear your geometry correction.

I realize that. With all the geometry/1:1 pixel talk, I figured I'd try both and see what I like better.
For what it's worth, I didn't see any difference in sharpness before/after I adjusted geometry. To be honest, the picture looks so good on my 92840, I'm almost afraid to mess with it at this point!
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post #1994 of 3975 Old 02-18-2012, 10:36 AM
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Paul's TV still has their Presidents Day Sale going on. $1699.99 for the 82740. $64.99 for 3D glasses and 5 year warranty $199.99 if you beg a little and say you saw it here.

My order is placed.

Mitsbishi 82740 DLP
Yamaha RX-V371 A/V Receiver
HR-34 DirecTv DVR and HD-31 Extender Receiver
Panasonic DMP-BDT210 BD Player
Win 8.1 Home Built Computer
Win 8.1 HTPC Gaming Computer
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post #1995 of 3975 Old 02-18-2012, 10:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chuck666 View Post

Paul's TV still has their Presidents Day Sale going on. $1699.99 for the 82740. $64.99 for 3D glasses and 5 year warranty $199.99 if you beg a little and say you saw it here.

My order is placed.

FYI $1699, while a good price, was their normal listing price on Amazon.
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post #1996 of 3975 Old 02-18-2012, 11:13 AM
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Can anyone speak to 3D glasses and the range of the internal emitter on the 82840?

I tried the PS3 glasses just as a test and my seating is 15ft back and they lose sync, 12ft they are fine and work pretty well for inexpensive glasses, but no go from my sectional.

I currently have the VIP RF 3D glasses that I used with my theatre setup, but I just don't feel like they are dialed in right. Basically the VIP Glasses are the same as Monstervision Max, and I believe the Optoma RF, all made By Bit cauldren, and are great because of the RF, howeveer like I said I see a difference in the smoothness of the PS3 glasses and These.

I am going to try this weekend to dial them in a little better, If anyone has the Optoma or Monster RF, could you share your software settings, as far as delay?

If there are glasses on the market that effectively use the internal emitter at or greater than 15ft let me know

Thanks in advance

Wake me when HD gets Here!
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post #1997 of 3975 Old 02-18-2012, 11:18 AM
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Thanks for posting those pics, Stebrock. The more, the better, for sure... so Mits can't deny this problem. My main board is being switched out soon, I'll report back on if it fixes the problem or not (I'm assuming 'not').

Quote:
Originally Posted by gtgray View Post

It does not take any time. If you have ESPN you will see it. Once you see it and recognize it, it is all over the place. I saw it long before I paid much attention to it because I was focused on calibration..... it is a very ugly and nasty bug and one of the worst processing glitches I have ever seen on a moder display. Mits has traditionally had poor color out of the box and were difficult to calibrate properly. So that was the focus for me in the first weeks.

Not paying attention to this issue is missing the trees by loooking at the forest.

Keep fighting the fight, GTGray. I keep seeing this problem on everything I watch. I'll PM you in a minute...

Quote:
Originally Posted by PTAaron View Post

It seems like a lot of people are just LOOKING for problems/defects too... I haven't seen any issues on mine that really jumped out at me - but I'm not really spending as much time as some other people obviously are to try to find something wrong with the set.

Seriously? Look... I am absolutely tired of responses like this. I bought a 73" 1080p 3D TV for a godamn reason.
TO SEE DETAIL. ****ing hell.

Quote:
Originally Posted by arnyk View Post

Your samples look horrible, but since they are from OTA sources they are hardly definitive. AFAIK, all they may be showing is bad behavior by either the cable channel provider or your local cable system or your own in-home signal chain.

The real question is what your TV looks like with standard static test patterns sourced not from JPEGs or other lossy-compressed format graphics files, but from TIFs, GIFs, or BMPs that have never been lossy-compressed.

If you had been following all the posts/pics/vids from the past month or so (check the 73640 thread if you want more proof)... you'd see this exact problem exists across all viewing media. HD Cable, HD Satellite, Blu-Ray movies, DVD, HD Video games, RAW still images from my Sony A33, etc. These problems don't show up in my 61" LCoS... or any other TV I've seen in a normal viewing situation. I believe THHowl even did post uncompressed still images, not that I really give a damn how my TV displays still test patterns.
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post #1998 of 3975 Old 02-19-2012, 04:38 PM
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Hey everybody. Just wanted to post a few updated photos and a quick little video...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gV--T7OxW3k




My home theater:
Denon AVR-4311ci a/v receiver
(3) Outlaw 2200 monoblock amps (for front soundstage)
Oppo BDP-93 blu-ray player
Directv HR24 satellite receiver
Toshiba HD-A35 hd-dvd player
Microsoft XBOX 360
Microsoft Kinect
Sony Playstation 3
Sony Playstation Move
Nintendo Wii
Apple TV
Logitech Harmony 880 universal remote
Mitsubishi WD-82740 DLP 3D television
Cinemaquest Idealume bias lighting
Furnitech equipment stand
Definitive Technology BP-8080ST front l/r
Definitive Technology CS-8080HD center
(4) Definitive Technology SR-8080BP surrounds
(4) Definitive Technology SM-350 speakers (front width and front height)
(2) Definitive Technology SuperCube Trinity subwoofers
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post #1999 of 3975 Old 02-19-2012, 09:20 PM
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I'd like a little help/advice if anyone is willing to listen to some of my questions and concerns before I purchase an 82-840. I'm sorry if some of these are redundant. I've read through most of this thread and if they've been asked/answered before, I may just been seeking some clarity.

Some background: I used to have a Toshiba 65" RPTV from 2004 before moving to a 60" Sony SXRD A2000 from 2007-2010. Since the summer of 2010, I've had the Panasonic 50" VT-25. I'm wanting to get back to a bigger screen because I miss the larger engrossing image. I will be connecting a PS3, Xbox 360, Panasonic 3D Blu-ray player and occasionally my Macbook Pro.

I feel like I've been spoiled with the amazing image on my smaller plasma screen so I have general concerns listed in the order of importance.

1. How's the image quality going to be?

I've been trying to look for screen caps (I know they can only show so much) but I'm concerned mostly with the depth of blacks on the 82-840. I haven't been able to locate a showroom in my area (Minneapolis) yet so I haven't seen one of these in person. I will be calibrating the TV and eventually getting is professionally calibrated after the initial break in period. Most of my viewing will be in low light (one floor lamp at either 50 or 100 watts).

2. Can I adjust overscan in the service menu?

I've seen a little bit about fixing geometry and how it undoes 1:1 Pixel mapping. Can I fix overscan too? I love seeing those little bars in 1.85. I want as close to 0% overscan as I can get.

3. Is the rainbow effect in play?

I had the Sony SXRD specifically because it couldn't have rainbow effect. I remember seeing it on older Samsung DLPs so I am prone to it in the older tech. How concerned should I be and is this an issue with the newer sets?

4. Let's talk 3D

Can I use my 3D glasses from my Panasonic? I have the older ones as well as the newer rechargeable batteries. I know that Mits switched to a different tech and I'm getting the sense that I can use them. Also, how's the crosstalk?

5. Stand Height

I've got my old stand still from my 60" Sony that should be able to hold the 82-840. However, I can only get it lowered down to 20" after taking the feet off. How much of an issue is this going to be? I know a lot of people have stands that are between 15-16". I can find a stand that will fit my Onkyo 805 and Klipsch Center channel that sits that low. I also have an IKEA in town but didn't see anything that looked feasible. I know I'm investing a lot in the TV but I don't want to spend a lot of money on a new stand for it. Kind of why this is a lower priority on my list but it is a real concern that I want to address.

6. Sitting distance

I'm going to be about 8.5 ft back with an eye height between 35" to 40". If I take a bookshelf out, I might be able to go back another foot. Probably not. Coupled with stand height, how am I doing? I know that I'm right on the cusp of where THX wants me to be.

7. 24p support and 120mhz Motion

I love, Love, LOVE my 24p (via 96hz) on my Panasonic. Let's just do panning shots all day. Am I going to be frustrated with 3:2 pulldown? I didn't have 24p support on my Sony A-2000 but I can't recall how juddery this may be.



Thanks for reading this far. I appreciate any and all support I can get. This is a big decision for me and I'm not really considering alternates at the moment. I guess the only other option would be for me to get another Panasonic Plasma (VT30) at 65" this time. I want to go BIG though. And just to clarify, the things that I've been unhappy about with my plasma are 1. Image retention. I was told this wasn't an issue anymore but I can't watch baseball without the logos constantly haunting me. 2. Banding Seeing blinds, text, etc with a long band across the entire screen.

Lastly, the main reason I want the 82-840 over the 82-740 is the clear contrast screen. I don't need the speakers as I have a good sound system already. Will the clear contrast help with my desire for deeper blacks?
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post #2000 of 3975 Old 02-19-2012, 11:29 PM
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8.5 feet back isn't enough for my 73", let alone an 82. Hell, 3D will make you cross-eyed that close. You might want to rethink that if you don't have the seating distance.

I am not going to take the length of time to answer all you questions as they are in this thread. RBE is from reading about past DLPs pretty much gone unless you are hypersensitive.

Cool Beans.
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post #2001 of 3975 Old 02-20-2012, 04:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shadow Jack View Post

Hey everybody. Just wanted to post a few updated photos and a quick little video...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gV--T7OxW3k




My home theater:
Denon AVR-4311ci a/v receiver
(3) Outlaw 2200 monoblock amps (for front soundstage)
Oppo BDP-93 blu-ray player
Directv HR24 satellite receiver
Toshiba HD-A35 hd-dvd player
Microsoft XBOX 360
Microsoft Kinect
Sony Playstation 3
Sony Playstation Move
Nintendo Wii
Apple TV
Logitech Harmony 880 universal remote
Mitsubishi WD-82740 DLP 3D television
Cinemaquest Idealume bias lighting
Furnitech equipment stand
Definitive Technology BP-8080ST front l/r
Definitive Technology CS-8080HD center
(4) Definitive Technology SR-8080BP surrounds
(4) Definitive Technology SM-350 speakers (front width and front height)
(2) Definitive Technology SuperCube Trinity subwoofers


Nice setup man. I have one quesion though. Looks like your TV stand is 23" high, isn't that too much especially when you watch 3D content?
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post #2002 of 3975 Old 02-20-2012, 05:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gogo_vs View Post

Nice setup man. I have one quesion though. Looks like your TV stand is 23" high, isn't that too much especially when you watch 3D content?

Thanks, gogo. Actually the height could not be more perfect for me. I used shims to angle the set forward slightly (there's a sketch I did back at post #1278). My sofa reclines and I put my feet up every time I watch something. With my current setup and the slightly angled set, my viewing angle is perfect and my feet never get in the way. If my stand were any lower, my own feet would get in the way of the picture. You can get an idea of the viewing height in the panoramic shot. You can see that my reflection in the screen puts my eyes right at the vertical center.
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post #2003 of 3975 Old 02-20-2012, 06:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FilmmakingFiasco View Post


1. How's the image quality going to be?

I've been trying to look for screen caps (I know they can only show so much) but I'm concerned mostly with the depth of blacks on the 82-840. I haven't been able to locate a showroom in my area (Minneapolis) yet so I haven't seen one of these in person. I will be calibrating the TV and eventually getting is professionally calibrated after the initial break in period. Most of my viewing will be in low light (one floor lamp at either 50 or 100 watts).



3. Is the rainbow effect in play?

I had the Sony SXRD specifically because it couldn't have rainbow effect. I remember seeing it on older Samsung DLPs so I am prone to it in the older tech. How concerned should I be and is this an issue with the newer sets?

I can answer these 2: with a bias light behind the set the blacks will appear very deep and dark. I just watched the last Harry Potter movie last night without my bias light - it is a very dark movie - and the blacks were definitely not "inky" blacks.

In the same movie - when there were bright spots in the mostly dark scenes the Rainbow Effect was definitely there if I moved my head at all. I'm assuming you mean the rainbow trails behind bright spots when you look around. This was also VERY irritating in Cowboys vs Aliens in the scenes in the caves - almost stopped watching the movie.

I have a 73740 - so your results may be different if you get the 840 model.

-Aaron

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post #2004 of 3975 Old 02-20-2012, 07:20 AM
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[quote=FilmmakingFiasco;21670541]I'd like a little help/advice if anyone is willing to listen to some of my questions and concerns before I purchase an 82-840. I'm sorry if some of these are redundant. I've read through most of this thread and if they've been asked/answered before, I may just been seeking some clarity.

5. Stand Height

"I've got my old stand still from my 60" Sony that should be able to hold the 82-840. However, I can only get it lowered down to 20" after taking the feet off. How much of an issue is this going to be? I know a lot of people have stands that are between 15-16". I can find a stand that will fit my Onkyo 805 and Klipsch Center channel that sits that low. I also have an IKEA in town but didn't see anything that looked feasible. I know I'm investing a lot in the TV but I don't want to spend a lot of money on a new stand for it. Kind of why this is a lower priority on my list but it is a real concern that I want to address."

6. Sitting distance

"I'm going to be about 8.5 ft back with an eye height between 35" to 40". If I take a bookshelf out, I might be able to go back another foot. Probably not. Coupled with stand height, how am I doing? I know that I'm right on the cusp of where THX wants me to be."





Both stand height and viewing distance are very much a matter of individual preference. 20" shouldn't be bad for the 82840, although you will get slightly superior clarity if you drop the center of the screen another 4-5". If you try 20" and it bothers you, you can always raise your chair or sofa on casters a couple of inches. I did that with my recliner and I like it. As far as viewing distance goes, preferences are all over the place. The THX standard of 1.2 x screen diagonal is intended to place a person with average peripheral vision (about a 40 degree field) in the center row of a theater in order to maximize immersion in the screen. But some people like to sit in the back of a theater and some like to sit well forward of center. Personally, I prefer to sit a little closer than the THX recommended distance, but I have slightly wider peripheral vision. I don't know whether 8.5' would bother you for 3D or not, but some people sit that close with no problem. A lot just depends on what you like. If you prefer to sit toward the back of the theater, then bear that in mind when calculating your TV viewing distance.


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post #2005 of 3975 Old 02-20-2012, 07:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DRaven72 View Post

8.5 feet back isn't enough for my 73", let alone an 82. Hell, 3D will make you cross-eyed that close. You might want to rethink that if you don't have the seating distance.

I've been using the THX calculator for distance, which is screen size divided by .84, which gave me 97.6 inches--just a bit over 8ft. What's a better calculation for distance? If I move my bookshelf to another room, I could probably go back another 24-36". I've got a wall that juts out after that so I don't have a whole lot of wiggle room.
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post #2006 of 3975 Old 02-20-2012, 07:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FilmmakingFiasco View Post

I've been using the THX calculator for distance, which is screen size divided by .84, which gave me 97.6 inches--just a bit over 8ft. What's a better calculation for distance? If I move my bookshelf to another room, I could probably go back another 24-36". I've got a wall that juts out after that so I don't have a whole lot of wiggle room.

When you get the TV, judge for yourself like Mr.Thomas was saying. I have tried multiple spots with family members and they all agree, specially for 3d, that the extra 2 feet made a difference for us. Our heads were at the 8 1/2 foot mark(kind of funny you said that to start), then while watching any 3D movie we all moved back 2-3 feet. It was better for us. We are at the 11 foot mark now and Happy with it. (Although I had to rehang the rear surrounds, pain!)

It comes down to you. Try a movie with good 3d like Avatar or How To Train Your Dragon and judge the distance yourself. These calculators never work the way they are mean't for me, its someone elses perception or machine.

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post #2007 of 3975 Old 02-20-2012, 07:55 AM
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[quote=FilmmakingFiasco;21670541]I'd like a little help/advice if anyone is willing to listen to some of my questions and concerns before I purchase an 82-840. I'm sorry if some of these are redundant. I've read through most of this thread and if they've been asked/answered before, I may just been seeking some clarity.

Some background: I used to have a Toshiba 65" RPTV from 2004 before moving to a 60" Sony SXRD A2000 from 2007-2010. Since the summer of 2010, I've had the Panasonic 50" VT-25. I'm wanting to get back to a bigger screen because I miss the larger engrossing image. I will be connecting a PS3, Xbox 360, Panasonic 3D Blu-ray player and occasionally my Macbook Pro.

I feel like I've been spoiled with the amazing image on my smaller plasma screen so I have general concerns listed in the order of importance.

1. How's the image quality going to be?

Keep in mind you are adding an additional 22" diagonal of screen. SD will will suffer some what especially on low quality content. HD on the clear screen model will look as good as the source and your calibration will allow.

Image quality is not a big drawback and can be stunning. Blacks could be better. If you are going to be using the display primarily for cinema you will find 65k bias lighting to be a big plus. An 82" will make on hell of a lot of light so you really need a separate night setting and or bias lighting. Your eyes can almost pop out of your head when you go from a fully dark screen to a fully lit one.

While seating distance is a matter of personal taste I suggest the longish end of the viewing range if you will be using the display for any SD content. THX recommendations are the most aggressive, you may see some SSE at the closest distances. I think you should be comfortable at 10 to 10.5 feet. Your 20" stand will be more problematic the closer you sit.

If your room lighting is appropriate the clear screen 82840 is the way to go.

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post #2008 of 3975 Old 02-20-2012, 08:50 AM
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Keep in mind you are adding an additional 22" diagonal of screen. SD will will suffer some what especially on low quality content. HD on the clear screen model will look as good as the source and your calibration will allow.

Image quality is not a big drawback and can be stunning.

While seating distance is a matter of personal taste I suggest the longish end of the viewing range if you will be using the display for any SD content. THX recommendations are the most aggressive, you may see some SSE at the closest distances. I think you should be comfortable at 10 to 10.5 feet. Your 20" stand will be more problematic the closer you sit.

If your room lighting is appropriate the clear screen 82840 is the way to go.


I will be watching almost 0% SD content. My content is primarily Blu-ray, Hulu +, and Netflix along with any 720p/1080p gaming. I'm one of the cord cutters for cable. I'll probably do the MLB Package this year too.

When I get home from work, I'll take measurements and see how far back I can get the seating.

Also, it's nice to hear about the clear screen. I was initially looking at the 73-740 but I wanted the 82-840 primarily for the screen. I'll have to call around and try to find a display room that still has one of these before I pull the trigger.
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post #2009 of 3975 Old 02-20-2012, 09:24 AM
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I didn't see anyone else mention it, but I think overscan might be an issue for you. Rear projection nearly always has some degree of overscan. Depending on the geometry of your set, you can probably get the image centered (with roughly the same degree of overscan left right and roughly the same value top/bottom), but this may have to be at the expense of loss of 1:1 pixel mapping.

I have pretty significant overscan on my TV, and I still haven't taken the time to go into the menus and disable the factory geometry correction to see if the 1:1 mapping is restored.
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post #2010 of 3975 Old 02-20-2012, 09:58 AM
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I didn't see anyone else mention it, but I think overscan might be an issue for you. Rear projection nearly always has some degree of overscan. Depending on the geometry of your set, you can probably get the image centered (with roughly the same degree of overscan left right and roughly the same value top/bottom), but this may have to be at the expense of loss of 1:1 pixel mapping.

I have pretty significant overscan on my TV, and I still haven't taken the time to go into the menus and disable the factory geometry correction to see if the 1:1 mapping is restored.

I guess I'm okay with losing the pixel mapping. My Sony A-2000 had pixel mapping and I went in to fix the overscan and brought it down from 5-7% down to 1-3%. I like being able to see the difference between 1:85 and 1:78 media.
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