Samsung DLP HLR6168WX/XAA issue - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 13 Old 07-09-2011, 11:08 PM - Thread Starter
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I would really appreciate it if someone can point me in the right direction.....I've already read multiple threads on similar, but not exact symptons, and need some guidance...

1. After ~5 years of running, last week hear a bang, then picture is showing in only 2 colors. We actually watched the rest of the movie in 2 colors.
2. After turning it off, all 3 lights in front were blinking.
3. I think, but don't remember for sure: After I turned it off, I tried turning it back on, but it wouldn't turn back on. Although if I did try this, I never unplugged it first before trying to turn it on, so maybe it needed to be reset.
4. Got a new color wheel and lamp in.
5. Color wheel was more than 3/4 shattered, but lamp looked ok, but figured it was time, and figured just in case because all 3 were blinking.
6. Replaced them, dusted tremendously and looks all new, and had turned over the large unit that holds the lamp, color wheel, etc and shook it a few times turned over to get all the shattered pieces of the color wheel out. The color wheel had shattered to a billion pieces and even with a vacuum could not get everything so that's why I had done that and pieces just kept falling and falling out (all from the color wheel. When I was doing this, the lamp, color wheel was detached. Only after did I realize maybe this was not so good for the light tunnel and/or light engine, etc. There is a small hole underneath where the color wheel fits and a ton had fallen in there, but I got it all out turning it over and moving it side to side etc.

7. Everything was put together and when you turn it on: the lamp light blinks, the color wheel (I believe I can hear spin), the outside fan is spinning, 2 little lights on the board are on, and I hear a click, but the lamp does not turn on at all. Then a few seconds later, again click and tries for about 15 seconds, then once more click and tries for about 15 seconds, and then one of the green lights on the board turns off and I see all 3 lights blinking.

8. Now here are the differences from other threads:
- I'm sure I have the ribbon cable in correctly: the metal conductor pieces are facing the back of the tv and when I was putting it back together, I matched it up with the previous color wheel and also confirmed noticing the the pins matching up with the conducting side of the ribbon.
- I don't hear that chime when you turn the tv on. I have not been able to confirm what that means or if users who had bad ballasts and/or ribbons the wrong way, etc had a chime or not, but I don't have the Samsung chime anymore from the time that I turn on the tv and when it tries and clicks 3 times. It's hard to say where that click is coming from...from some relay somewhere or the ballast or somewhere else.
- Supposedly the ballast one piece turns bright orange and/or glows. I pulled out the ballast while still connected, taped up the safety thing so it works without the cover and turned the tv on with the ballast basically outside the tv and don't see it glowing. Maybe this is a signal that it is a bad ballast? But why no chime then and why would I hear a click if others who don't hear a click typically mean bad ballast?
- After the 3 lights are blinking, pressing on the on/off button does nothing, I need to unplug it for at least a minute or two, then plug it back in to replicate the issue I'm experiencing.
- I tried putting in the old lamp (that was still working when the color wheel shattered) and same exact scenario.
- I rechecked all the wirings and can't find anything loose.
- Next step I guess is to buy a ballast but I don't want to buy something that is ok. I'm hoping me being specific and what I observed could point to what the issue may really be. I also read on another thread a guy found a fuse on the board that says connected to ballast was blown, but I can't find that fuse and maybe the 6168 doesn't have that small fuse.
- I have not checked any meter readings...I actually don't have one in the house nor know how to use it properly. It also didn't seem like using one would very 100% if a ballast was definitely the culprit or not anyway and would just be better off just replacing it just to make sure, but the other symptoms I'm seeing makes me wonder.

Any ideas? Thank you Thank you for any ideas/responses.
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post #2 of 13 Old 07-12-2011, 04:25 PM
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You need to know if you are getting between 250 and 350 vdc going in to the ballast (general ballast drive voltage).

If the spark gap is glowing or making the noise, then it is attempting to fire a bad lamp or a disconnected lamp.
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post #3 of 13 Old 07-14-2011, 03:56 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 74f100 View Post

You need to know if you are getting between 250 and 350 vdc going in to the ballast (general ballast drive voltage).

If the spark gap is glowing or making the noise, then it is attempting to fire a bad lamp or a disconnected lamp.

I received the new ballast today, replaced it, and same exact issue! Now the color wheel, lamp, and ballast are removed. I took that ribbon cable and switched it even though I could see how it should be with the contacts, and it's the same exact scenario. The tv reacts the same if the ribbon is one way or the other way.

I plug the tv in, turn the tv on. lamp is blinking. Never hear the samsung turn on noise. In the back, both fans and the color wheel I can hear are turning and 1 click from I think the ballast, and light does not come on. After about 20 seconds, again click, and then 20 seconds later again click, and then it stops with all 3 lights blinking.

please please someone help. I don't know what else to do. I can take a video and post it but not sure if that would help anything. I'm afraid I'm going to call someone out here and they will swindle me with new boards or something else when it's just a fuse or something else silly. Just really aggravated considering I've already spent $300+ in parts and not working.

please please help.
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post #4 of 13 Old 07-15-2011, 03:07 PM
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After about 20 seconds, again click, and then 20 seconds later again click, and then it stops with all 3 lights blinking.

You will need to check either the DMD or power supply. I have had bad capacitors on both cause that.

On the DMD you won't be able to look and tell a bad one, they are small silver surface mount electrolytic capacitors.

In all honesty, you probably need an experienced tech at this point. You will spend far more throwing parts at a TV. Tell me where you are located, and I will try to see if I know anyone there.

Good luck,
Jim
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post #5 of 13 Old 07-15-2011, 03:17 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by 74f100 View Post
You will need to check either the DMD or power supply. I have had bad capacitors on both cause that.

On the DMD you won't be able to look and tell a bad one, they are small silver surface mount electrolytic capacitors.

In all honesty, you probably need an experienced tech at this point. You will spend far more throwing parts at a TV. Tell me where you are located, and I will try to see if I know anyone there.

Good luck,
Jim
I had a tv tech come in today. Everything was put in correctly. He says next would be to try to replace the LE if I wanted to go that route.

he says the ballast is not coming on yet because most likely the color wheel is not spinning fast enough or the board is not working correctly to initiate the light of the lamp. He measured some voltages and those appeared good. The color wheel spins and it does fast, but does not have the whine noise that he was talking about and no tick tick tick from the ballast then. Also tried plugging in the old color wheel and same thing. I don't recall him looking at capacitors though or mentioning anything about them but he looked very experienced with > 25 years of experience. Says he knows a manufacturer offering the LE for $150 that i guess normally run around $260 and I could buy and put in myself and try that route, but didn't suggest I would spend anymore money on it.

Would you agree with that analysis? Do you have a good place to buy LE from?

By the way, I forgot to mention....
When the tv broke, we were watching a movie and all of a sudden a big bang/pop noise and the movie was showing in like grey/blue colors only and making noise. We ended up watching the rest of the movie (about 15 more minutes) because it wasn't too bad almost just black and white and flickering a little. Then turned off the tv. The tv tech guys says that may have causes the DMD board to go bad and why suggested to just buy the Light Engine if I wanted to try the "next step". He said there isn't a way to test to make sure it is this board or the power supply or the board to the left....but samsung recommends a certain order of replacing items based on certain conditions such as mine and said the LE would be the next step. Any recommendations?
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post #6 of 13 Old 07-15-2011, 09:24 PM
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The tv tech guys says that may have causes the DMD board to go bad and why suggested to just buy the Light Engine if I wanted to try the "next step". He said there isn't a way to test to make sure it is this board or the power supply or the board to the left....but samsung recommends a certain order of replacing items based on certain conditions such as mine and said the LE would be the next step. Any recommendations?

Yes, that is correct. The DMD is "probably" the problem. I have repaired them numerous times by checking an replacing the surface mount capacitors. The drive IC for the color wheel is functioning other wise the color wheel wouldn't start. This is really getting into "professional" level troubleshooting, and they guy that came to your house sounds like he has taken all the right steps.

I sometimes get fanatical about component level repair because I can in some cases fix a $200 board for less than $20. Most techs won't do this because it simply takes too much time. We all have to make a living doing this and we charge to cover not only our time, but our knowledge. And in my case, I spent a total of about 3 yrs in college and 25 years working as a tech.

I don't mean this to sound harsh, but you are in way over your head. Take the recommendation of that guy, and if you are close to central Virginia, I would be happy to help you with it.

Good luck,
Jim
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post #7 of 13 Old 07-15-2011, 10:04 PM
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Just had a thought,,,, bear with me, I have been working since 7:30 this morning, 17 hrs wears on the mind.


Take the old color wheel and hook it up without mounting it in the LE. Also, break the rest of the glass off. Just run it with the motor.

Hook everything else up (lamp, ballast). The LE can still be hooked up, but pulled most of the way out of the chassis. Hold the color wheel in your hand while someone else turns the set on. If the DMD caps are bad, you can do this process a couple times and the color wheel will come up to full speed. Or another problem I've had with a few (new) color wheels, the mounting bracket is a little too long and it puts the color wheel motor in a bind when mounted.

Troubleshooting at this point is really hard by description, a lot of troubleshooting is hearing things run and seeing whats happening.
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post #8 of 13 Old 07-16-2011, 11:29 AM - Thread Starter
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Your advice worked!

Now I have a shadow on the left side about 2 inches. I'm guessing the light tunnel or the mirrors inside it got out of place after I turned it upside now trying to get all the color wheel broken pieces out.

I've read a few threads that there is a DIY fix for this, although it's complicated. I'd like to attempt it, but I can't find the thread that shows the steps to take for a samsung dlp to take apart the tunnel and fix yourself to remove the shadow.

Does anyone have a link to that? I see many threads talking about it, but can't find the actual steps and/or directions. anybody know where?
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post #9 of 13 Old 07-16-2011, 12:43 PM
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Look for something like the foam or anything else blocking the LE output lens first.

I tip those LE's over all the time when I have a shattered color wheel, and have never knocked anything loose.

The VERY FIRST rule of troubleshooting anything, KISS (keep it simple stupid). Always look for the simple thing you may have missed, more often than not a very minor thing has been over looked. ALWAYS, ALWAYS, ALWAYS do that before you attempt something complicated and risk even more problems.

That is what I've had to beat into the heads of a lot of the seasoned TV tech's I've hired in the past. Some with 20 to 30 years of experience, but they always over look the simple stuff and end up creating a much more complicated final repair.

Good Luck,
Jim
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post #10 of 13 Old 07-18-2011, 08:40 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 74f100 View Post

Look for something like the foam or anything else blocking the LE output lens first.

I tip those LE's over all the time when I have a shattered color wheel, and have never knocked anything loose.

The VERY FIRST rule of troubleshooting anything, KISS (keep it simple stupid). Always look for the simple thing you may have missed, more often than not a very minor thing has been over looked. ALWAYS, ALWAYS, ALWAYS do that before you attempt something complicated and risk even more problems.

That is what I've had to beat into the heads of a lot of the seasoned TV tech's I've hired in the past. Some with 20 to 30 years of experience, but they always over look the simple stuff and end up creating a much more complicated final repair.

Good Luck,
Jim

I've checked but still the same. And seems a bit too coincidental that it is a shadow and to the left side of the screen.

I'm pretty handy and would like to attempt to fix the mirror in the light tunnel, but would like to have some instruction....I'm pretty sure there is some DIY or something with instructions out on avsforum.

does anyone know a link to instructions for this?
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post #11 of 13 Old 07-19-2011, 04:44 PM
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Look under the 3 plastic covers on the DMD board. See if you possibly shifted the DMD. It will look like a spot on the screw pads where the screws marked the solder. If you don't see marks, don't loosen those screws. They adjust mechanical tilt.

Also look at the place where the color wheel goes in, you may have shifted the little glass piece in there. Find what is causing the shadow before you get into another potential problem. I HIGHLY doubt you shifted an internal mirror in the LE. I have worked on at least hundreds of those LE, and never knocked a mirror loose (and I'm not particularly easy on them).

Not trying to shoot you down,,, but I've been a tech for a long time,,,and I am seeing trouble for you.

Jim
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post #12 of 13 Old 07-21-2011, 08:33 AM
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Best have the telphone number of Sammy tech support nearby in case you need to be rescued!
Sammy support share a database with their repair affiliates so a rescue tech visit can be arranged within a few days usually!

If you can pull off this repair yourself you could have a whole new career opening up for you!

Ian
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post #13 of 13 Old 07-21-2011, 04:38 PM
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If you can pull off this repair yourself you could have a whole new career opening up for you!

Sure, if you like working like a dog for Mcdonalds wages. Then you will develop knee and back problems, will not get benefits or retirement.

The average tech makes 10-15 per hour.

Jim
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