Dead Samsung HLN4365W - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 7 Old 12-24-2011, 02:58 PM - Thread Starter
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My dad gave me this TV, and I paid a guy from CL 50 bucks to put it in his car and drive it from IL to CO a few years back. It had a fairly fresh bulb in it at the time. I don't watch TV at all, some blue rays, some games, but during the summer months it remains turned off for weeks at a time. The color wheel exploded a few years back, so I replaced that as well. The other day, I was watching a movie and a relay clicked, and that was all she wrote. It didn't shut down like it was supposed to, was just off all of a sudden. I unplugged and plugged a few times. Left it overnight. Pulled the bulb cover (got the two flashing lights), pulled the bulb, tried a different outlet, basically all the simple stuff. Hunted around on the internet, kept getting answers like "call Samsung". Read through some threads here, but got lost in a hurry with all the terminology. You folks seem to know your stuff, so I thought I'd join and post. I've already ordered a new plasma, but I wouldn't mind getting this guy running again just in case. The remote does nothing. Pressing the power button earns me a faint click, 2 flashes from the lamp LED, then a heavier click. Nothing powers up, spins, lights, whirs, clunks, smokes or smells funny. I put my meter across the bulb terminals, stayed open, but I understand it's a MH bulb, which has no filament and open is normal. The bulb looks fine, but by normal I mean nothing looks burnt or broken. Thanks in advance for any advice.
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post #2 of 7 Old 12-28-2011, 04:42 PM - Thread Starter
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Bump Please
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post #3 of 7 Old 12-29-2011, 09:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheDoubleJ View Post

I put my meter across the bulb terminals, stayed open, but I understand it's a MH bulb, which has no filament and open is normal. The bulb looks fine, but by normal I mean nothing looks burnt or broken. Thanks in advance for any advice.

Yes it's a halogen arc lamp (although some have been converted to Philips UHP). Right..an Ohm meter won't detect any resistance across the electrodes.

It's difficult to state what the exact problem source is without proper evaluation. So we'll play the guessing game:

My first guess...the lamp ballast board (part# BP47-00008A).

Second guess is the power supply board (BP94-00087A).

Third guess is the main digital assembly (BP94-02187A). Hopefully it's not that because it is very difficult to find new for this model. They're out there, but in very minimal quantities (and usually at rip-off pricing).

I just checked eBay for the heck of it. You can find working used pulls there real cheap. It seems as if everything I have suggested is readily available.

Curious as to why you decided to go with a plasma? Since you're in CO, and depending on your elevation, you might experience "plasma buzzing".

Well, enjoy the new TV and good luck repairing the DLP.
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post #4 of 7 Old 12-30-2011, 08:45 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by KewlK View Post


Curious as to why you decided to go with a plasma? Since you're in CO, and depending on your elevation, you might experience "plasma buzzing".

I had heard plasmas had issues up here as well, but after some research, it seems that 8500 feet is where things starting getting funky, and I'm at 5000ish, so I figure I'll be ok. I was considering an LED, but only if I could find a full array model with local dimming, and they were way out of my price range. I'm also spoiled a bit I guess by the blacks on the DLP, and since DLPs only come in giant sizes these days, those are out since my room is 10x11. Lastly, and I know this one sounds dumb, but some of the LCDs I looked at had a little extra processing time involved, and I didn't want to mess up my guitar hero.

As far as those parts go, would it just be a game of swapping boards until it works again?
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post #5 of 7 Old 01-02-2012, 09:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheDoubleJ View Post

I had heard plasmas had issues up here as well, but after some research, it seems that 8500 feet is where things starting getting funky, and I'm at 5000ish, so I figure I'll be ok.

It is a very model specific issue. Buzzing has been known to happen well under 5000 feet. In general, things have gotten better with newer sets. Hopefully it will behave.

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I was considering an LED, but only if I could find a full array model with local dimming, and they were way out of my price range. I'm also spoiled a bit I guess by the blacks on the DLP, and since DLPs only come in giant sizes these days, those are out since my room is 10x11. Lastly, and I know this one sounds dumb, but some of the LCDs I looked at had a little extra processing time involved, and I didn't want to mess up my guitar hero.

I'm a casual gamer myself (360, PS3 and PC), so your last point did not sound dumb. Quite the contrary, it's a major issue. Processing lag is pretty bad on many of the LED LCDs. Some of the models out there will allow you to bypass most of the extra trashy "image enhancement features" that exacerbate it, while other sets won't.

In general though, I do not like the new LED edgelit LCDs for other annoying reasons. Ever hear of clouding and flashlights? If you do a lot of night time movie watching, there is nothing more annoying than having splotches of dark grey on what should be a totally black background (clouding)....or random bright spots (flashlights). Glowing edges and corners are common problems as well. Very few LED LCD specimens are perfect due to these issues, and in general, I think they suck.

Besides, I see a lot of pixel blurring while playing games on LCDs with the very quickest response times available. DLP owns gaming, with plasma a close second. Current LCD pixel tech is still too slow for my liking.

You can find 60" offerings of new Mitsu DLPs. I'm sure that you could find a space for one of those. They are the most massive bang for the buck in displays right now.

Quote:


As far as those parts go, would it just be a game of swapping boards until it works again?

I hate to say this, but as this is a DIY job for you without any electrical diagnostic skills, then yes. My advice is to replace both the ballast and power supply. Those parts have relatively high failure rates. Kill two birds with one stone. After doing so the TV will more than likely spring back to life. If not, we'll take it from there. Just be carefull with the connectors, don't force anything.
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post #6 of 7 Old 01-03-2012, 08:39 AM - Thread Starter
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Hopefully the plasma I ordered won't have the buzzing. I suppose if it does, I'll have to return it. I did alot of research and went with the Panasonic ST series 46". Good reviews from experts and people like me alike, so fingers crossed. As far as that big Mitsu goes, when I'm in gaming mode, leaned forward on my couch like a little kid, my tape measure puts me at 6 feet from my nose to the screen, and I'd lose space for one of my componant racks on the side with a 60. I could squeeze a 50, and almost did, but I dropped 4 inches, paid the same, and got Panasonics infinate black panel in the trade off. I do have some electrical trouble shooting skills, but basically only what's necessary for fire alarm systems. They tend to use either one board, which you replace when it fails, or several identical boards, which you swap around and see where the problem goes, then also replace. Power supply failure wouldn't surprise me on this one since nothing actually powers up when I press the power button. I'll hunt for a deal on the ebay.
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post #7 of 7 Old 01-08-2012, 09:24 AM
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Over the past 15 years (using the same entertainment center) I went from a 27" CRT to a 32" LCD. Then a 50" SXRD and now a 61" DLP. I know too well what it's like to have to wrestle for space!

It's a wooden entertainment center given as a gift from a brother; and was originally designed to accommodate only up to a 34" CRT!

All of its cabinet space is just loaded full of DVDs, old VHS tapes and games....really wanted to hold on to the thing. I obtained more room by eliminating the right side device shelves and reenforcing the top table shelf with two narrow steel girders. It took a heck of a lot of sawing, angle cutting and driving screws but everything turned out great. All of my A/V equipment is now positioned above and slightly behind the TV.

I see that your room is tight for space. ~6ft viewing distance is pushing it for anything above 55". Just don't let the width of your stand + racks be the primary limiting factor. There's always a way around that. 46" is a good size, I'm sure you'll be happy with it vs the old 43"

Keep me updated on the repair progress.
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