Samsung HLR 5087 weird turn off - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 11 Old 08-02-2012, 09:15 AM - Thread Starter
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I have my TV Samsung HLR 5087 for over 6 Years, The TV comes with stand which is excellent for the space and use. Works beautiful for the last 6 years with one time Bulb change, original Philips about a year and half ago. Lamp timer reset, fan cleaned at the time and recently both changed. Fan2 close to the TV Card input spins on start of the TV but stops and I watched the fan but never saw it spinning after the restart.

The problem;

If I use this TV on Analog signal or rapid channel changing, components input. The screen starts to freeze, sometimes black with sound and then it continues to play but for short term, couple of times and is off with lamp, heat and fan signal on display. A hard reset to make it work back.

If I watch anything on HDMI, Digital channels it works fine over couple of hours. I don't even remember that it died on me on digital recently.

I know where is fan1, and fan2 but have no clue where is the third fan. No dust, or any dirt inside. I clean the TV from the back with blower every two years. The weather is hotter here in US, didn't have this issue on Winter time. I wish I have a digital map, or troubleshooter guide for this TV, that will make things easier to figure.

Any suggestions will be highly appreciated. Thank you.
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post #2 of 11 Old 08-03-2012, 07:19 AM
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Main power supply or main board could be faulty.

Stable voltages are critical, as I have troubleshot my own DLP tv to fix my own main board.

You can try isolating without taking things apart by, unplugging the tv and letting it sit for an hour.

This is needed to make sure the power supply and main board are cooled down enough for a quick troubleshoot.

Once you power on the TV perform a quick check to see if the symptoms occur right away. If so, then it may be a fault with the main board on the inputs section. As it shares voltage with other sections (tuner and controls) to the main board.

If not, it seems to be a voltage issue with the power supply, or one of the regulators on the main board that are fed 12v from the power supply.

I have noted that the Samsung power supplies are weak against surges and long term dirty power. The power supplies don't seem to burn out or shut down right away as other manufacturers do.

Thus allowing critical components to fail before the power supply blows a fuse or shuts down.

Once you have an idea where to look, it is a matter of removing the component... When removing any component, be sure to have the tv unplugged for at least 1/2 hour. The power supply has large capacitors that can store energy. Letting the tv set unplugged for that duration keeps you from damaging components or getting shocked.

Once you have the component removed you can look on both trace side and component side for discoloration. Fairly easy to spot as it would not look normal compared to the rest of the components features.

Also look for any bulges on the tops of the caps. The caps in question are colored cylindrical electrical components with flat aluminum tops.

If nothing seems out of place, you can move on to the next component in question and verify.

Once you isolated the issue, you can either purchase a replacement or find a repair service. My ol TV repair shop did component level repairs so $30.00 was a fairly cheap fix back then.

Yes, my 2010 Panasonic 42C2 performs better than an S2 No floating blacks and keeps the lowest black levels.
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post #3 of 11 Old 08-03-2012, 09:58 AM - Thread Starter
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I found this, I will have time for the coming days to open the beast, do some testing.

Power supply and ballast suspect. (Pull lamp out and close the door tightly then turn on unit and listen for the ballast). Also do this test Were the wire is that runs from the ballast to the power supply, make sure it reads around 300vdc if it doesn't you need a power supply if it does you need A BALLAST. You can make sure the capacitors close to the connector are flat on the top if not you may have bad capacitors. It will be easy to see if The power supply and ballast has bad capacitors they will not be as flat on the top as the good ones, this is the problem. Also intermitting shut downs, This can be caused by the lamp switch, make sure switch is in the down position and The thermostat which is on top of the lamp housing, both can be tested buy shorting them out and running TV if any are bad Exchange them and you will be ok, lastly intermitting shut downs, lines in the picture can be the digital board this is a good tip on digital board

Thank you for your suggestions.
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post #4 of 11 Old 10-06-2012, 06:45 PM - Thread Starter
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Sorry for the delays, Summer cannot bed avoided. Getting out hiking, camping, etc.


I did some tests mentioned on my reply,

The BALLAST, I got the lamp out and turned the TV on, the BALLAST fired one time each 5sec. I could see at the bottom of the ballast unit the sparks. I got all the TV parts out to be sure where is the problem. So I count the Ballast is fully working.

Power supply, measured the voltage on the wire that runs from the ballast to the power supply it reads 320VDC so I will count the power supply as functional passed. No faulty components physical appearance, or damages components looks like

Thermostat & Lamp switch both tested by shortening them. In both situations the lamp turned off if I do that. So I will count both passed.

Two new fans both working fully, no problem mentioned in either.

The TV now is off when I turned on it goes to channel 3 which is ANALOG and I cannot do damn thing. Before this incident of switching channel from HDMI which works for hours with no complaining so does the Digital Antenna channels or Cable's. My only problem is analog signal which turns this good TV to a useless device.

I don't have an extra Color wheel otherwise I could just replace and test.

When the screen starts the panel goes dark after the smiley face, and everything goes dark both panel and screen, couple of minutes you see the channel 3 with no controls ever, remote works, panel works but no effect on changing the channel or source which I wish just to do and keep it permanently on digital as last resort.

Anybody get any suggestion or experience with such incident? This is one of the best forum for troubleshooting? Thanks ...
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post #5 of 11 Old 10-09-2012, 10:42 AM
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If the image is freezing or blacking out, and it is not a signal issue, I would suspect a bad Main PCB.
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post #6 of 11 Old 10-09-2012, 11:38 AM - Thread Starter
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Possible but why it doesn't freeze or black out on Digital signal? I will assume it's the analog board which connects to components/S-Video is the bad one. Anybody here want to sell his if he give up on his TV? Looks out they are separated boards inside, in my TV HLR 5087 is located vertically in middle.

My TV did work and I was able to switch the channel back to a digital channel #4 a local one, after that switched to HDMI which it will stay to the end of it's days, I intentionally disconnect all the analog devices so only HDMI will be available if I click on source button. It's working fine for hours at one time, we did watch some Netflix movies on HTPC and then played on Xbox for couple of hours, perfect picture. Very normal operation, no problem at all.

Why I'm complaining? The digital format is perfectly working, if something changes I will keep ya updated. Thank you for your inputs.
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post #7 of 11 Old 10-10-2012, 03:54 AM
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Your right rufa33. After some review of your model, I see that it does in fact have a separate analog board.
I would first make sure all of the connections are seated properly. If you still have problems, replace the board.
The Samsung part number is BP94-02036A.
Good luck !
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post #8 of 11 Old 10-10-2012, 07:46 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks EG3 for following up. I did find a new board from tvpartsplus.com for $116 .. but I'm not rushing to purchase for now at least. We barely use this TV for analog, mainly digital HDMI which I share with 3X switch. It was good to know where the problem lays.
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post #9 of 11 Old 11-28-2012, 10:14 AM - Thread Starter
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My wife switched by a mistake to analog channel and killed the TV. I didn't have an option more than to order the Analog Card, ordered, received today.

Installed the analog card# BP94-02036A and turned on.

Same results 100% identical to older board, no luck. It turns on, lights from the back and fan spinning, I hear the final click from front showing the final stages to get the TV on and dark screen and no panel lights what so ever everything goes black, remote clicks shows receiving on TV but no reaction from the clicks. later on after 2 min. flashes of pixels on screen and final self turn off and red light on front panel.

couple of months earlier if I let the TV clears it's residual electricity by unplugging from main power or maybe it was overheating which I doubt it did go for couple of seconds on analog and that did give me a chance to switch back to HDMI for ex. Not anymore.

Any other thoughts? I'm in parallel situation to disregard or research more? Any comments or hints?
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post #10 of 11 Old 01-15-2013, 08:02 PM
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make your wife pay for a house call to get a technician out to check it.cool.gifrolleyes.gif
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post #11 of 11 Old 01-15-2013, 09:15 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for the advice, but in such situation is not going to make a difference. I need technical advice not social. Thanks again for trying.
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