Originally Posted by paintballlovr
Back is off, so im manually holding switch. I think correct position is down, but i have tried it both ways. Im pretty confident in my work and i feel a good seat with the ballast connector when putting the lamp in. Is there a third component that might go after those two? I noticed that the cooling fan doesnt run, but im not sure if that is a symptom of another component to check or not.
Okay, stop here and let's back up. This is the normal bootup sequence in your Samsung, or most any DLP for that matter:
1. Standby LED on Digital Board ON (Standby 5V)
2. Power on signal from keypad/remote to Digital PCB.
3. Power ON signal generated by Digital PCB-> Analog PCB-> PSU
4. All other voltages turn on.
5. Digital PCB tells fans to turn on.
6. Digital PCB tells DMD PCB to turn color wheel on.
7. DMD / digital PCB’S check feedback signals from fans/ color wheel.
8. If OK, Digital PCB Tells ballast to turn lamp on. LAMP ON.
9. Digital PCB then checks “lamplitsignal” from ballast for status OK.
So if your fans are not starting, and if you don't hear the spinup of the color wheel, you have problems upstream from the lamp and ballast.
Look through where the lamp light travels and see if you can see the very thin glass color wheel. Don't mess with it, it is very fragile. Look at some pictures on ebay if you don't know what they look like.
Find all the fans, I can't remember how many there are, probably three. Remove their connectors and test them with a voltage source, 6, 9, 12VDC, whatever you can find. Red to positive, black to Negative, ignore the white or yellow. Some of the fans are hard to get at, you may have to identify the connectors by labels on the connectors that they connect to, or with a Service Manual.
Note that your problem could be all the way back at the power supply.
Start searching the intertubes for a Service Manual, google "HL-S6187 Service Manual download". Should be able to get for free.
Tell us the history of this set and what led you to the lamp and ballast.