Samsung hls6187 flashing LEDs - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 18 Old 08-08-2012, 03:52 PM - Thread Starter
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I have replaced the bulb and the ballast and tv still shows three flashing LEDs on the front and wont come on. Any ideas on what else it might be?
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post #2 of 18 Old 08-08-2012, 04:16 PM
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Originally Posted by paintballlovr View Post

I have replaced the bulb and the ballast and tv still shows three flashing LEDs on the front and wont come on. Any ideas on what else it might be?

Check for proper lamp cover door switch operation. There is a switch that a piece of plastic on the cover operates when you install the cover so you can't run the tv without the lamp door in place.

Plastics get hot, warp, shift over time, and the door might not be hitting the switch right.

Check your other work, make sure that the lamp connector on the ballast side is secure. Look into the tv from the back and see if you can confirm if the lamp connector is engaging all the way with the ballast connector.
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post #3 of 18 Old 08-08-2012, 04:22 PM - Thread Starter
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Back is off, so im manually holding switch. I think correct position is down, but i have tried it both ways. Im pretty confident in my work and i feel a good seat with the ballast connector when putting the lamp in. Is there a third component that might go after those two? I noticed that the cooling fan doesnt run, but im not sure if that is a symptom of another component to check or not.
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post #4 of 18 Old 08-08-2012, 07:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paintballlovr View Post

Back is off, so im manually holding switch. I think correct position is down, but i have tried it both ways. Im pretty confident in my work and i feel a good seat with the ballast connector when putting the lamp in. Is there a third component that might go after those two? I noticed that the cooling fan doesnt run, but im not sure if that is a symptom of another component to check or not.

Okay, stop here and let's back up. This is the normal bootup sequence in your Samsung, or most any DLP for that matter:

Initialization Process
1. Standby LED on Digital Board ON (Standby 5V)
2. Power on signal from keypad/remote to Digital PCB.
3. Power ON signal generated by Digital PCB-> Analog PCB-> PSU
4. All other voltages turn on.
5. Digital PCB tells fans to turn on.
6. Digital PCB tells DMD PCB to turn color wheel on.
7. DMD / digital PCB’S check feedback signals from fans/ color wheel.
8. If OK, Digital PCB Tells ballast to turn lamp on. LAMP ON.
9. Digital PCB then checks “lamplitsignal” from ballast for status OK.

So if your fans are not starting, and if you don't hear the spinup of the color wheel, you have problems upstream from the lamp and ballast.
Look through where the lamp light travels and see if you can see the very thin glass color wheel. Don't mess with it, it is very fragile. Look at some pictures on ebay if you don't know what they look like.
Find all the fans, I can't remember how many there are, probably three. Remove their connectors and test them with a voltage source, 6, 9, 12VDC, whatever you can find. Red to positive, black to Negative, ignore the white or yellow. Some of the fans are hard to get at, you may have to identify the connectors by labels on the connectors that they connect to, or with a Service Manual.
Note that your problem could be all the way back at the power supply.

Start searching the intertubes for a Service Manual, google "HL-S6187 Service Manual download". Should be able to get for free.

Tell us the history of this set and what led you to the lamp and ballast.
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post #5 of 18 Old 08-08-2012, 07:32 PM - Thread Starter
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Lamp was replaced once before. A week or so ago, tv started throwing a three led flashing error code. According to the manual, that was a lamp failure, so i replaced it. No change with the replacement and i still had three flashing leds, so i moved on and replaced the ballast. When i plug in the power, i hear what i believe to be the ballast "click", but im not 100 percent on that. There are at least two fans, possibly more, and i will check those. Will i be looking for anything specific with the color wheel?
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post #6 of 18 Old 08-09-2012, 02:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paintballlovr View Post

Lamp was replaced once before. A week or so ago, tv started throwing a three led flashing error code. According to the manual, that was a lamp failure, so i replaced it. No change with the replacement and i still had three flashing leds, so i moved on and replaced the ballast. When i plug in the power, i hear what i believe to be the ballast "click", but im not 100 percent on that. There are at least two fans, possibly more, and i will check those. Will i be looking for anything specific with the color wheel?

It's odd that you would get the three-flash code yet the fans and color wheel are not trying to start, but then the self-analysis on these sets is far from perfect.

The startup of the color wheel sounds distinctly different from the fans, because it turns at a much higher speed. It's more of a whine than a fan sound. If you look inside and try to see it what you don't want to see are little bits of broken glass. If you look in and see one of the primary colors of the wheel, that's good.

When you plug in power you will generally hear a click which is a relay setting AC voltage to generate the standby voltage for the set. When you press the on button on the remote you will hear a second click which is the other voltages coming on. The sound of the ballast trying to light the lamp is a buzzing sound that lasts a couple of seconds. Typically you will hear the buzz, wait 20s or so, it will try again, wait another 20s, it will try again, and if it still doesn't work then the panel LEDs light up with a fail indication. I don't think you are getting to that point.
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post #7 of 18 Old 08-09-2012, 08:34 PM - Thread Starter
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When i look at the color wheel, i see red and a green or blue, it appears to be intact though. Two fans, both tested good. A little more detail on the flashing LEDs, when tv is plugged into oower, i start off with solid red (standby). Then i get a single flashing green on lamp for 5-7 seconds and then it goes to three flashing. Not sure if any of that is pertinent, but the more detail the better i always say.
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post #8 of 18 Old 08-09-2012, 08:52 PM - Thread Starter
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Additional follow up: i put everything back together (unfortunately im getting quite fast) and fired it up again. Other than the initial click when i connect the power cord, there is no sound from any of the components.
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post #9 of 18 Old 08-15-2012, 08:20 AM - Thread Starter
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Does anyone have any input as to the next item to try? I was considering paying the restocking fee to send the ballast back and trying the power supply, since they are only cents apart in cost, but I hate to just keep flailing at the issue without any real direction. If there would be another part to try first or some additional troubleshooting for me to perform, I'll entertain any ideas at this point.
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post #10 of 18 Old 08-16-2012, 05:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paintballlovr View Post

Does anyone have any input as to the next item to try? I was considering paying the restocking fee to send the ballast back and trying the power supply, since they are only cents apart in cost, but I hate to just keep flailing at the issue without any real direction. If there would be another part to try first or some additional troubleshooting for me to perform, I'll entertain any ideas at this point.

Did you score a Service Manual yet? There are many different tests you can do, described in the SM. I don't have that particular one, and it would not be smart to guess at test points. You would need to have some kind of cheap multimeter. You would be testing for HV at the ballast, and testing the temperature shutdown switch for starters.

Search for Service Manual based on model number, and if that fails, the chassis number which will be a number like L-67A or similar.
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post #11 of 18 Old 08-17-2012, 07:15 AM - Thread Starter
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I did try some searches, but couldn't come up with a hit on the service manual (can't swing a cat without hitting an owners manual). I think I can get access to a multimeter so I'll try another round of searches, this time for the chassis number as well and see if I get any further. Thanks again.
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post #12 of 18 Old 08-20-2012, 03:27 AM - Thread Starter
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Where can i find the chassis number? Ive looked around inside, but i cant seem to find a number with a similar format. Can i use any of the component BP numbers to cross-reference it? Since i haven't officially asked yet, does anyone who has read this have this service manual? If i cant find one, my only option may be to roll the dice one more time and try the power supply. That will be strike three if that doesnt fix it and due to cost, i may just have to give up the quest to fix this unit.
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post #13 of 18 Old 08-20-2012, 05:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paintballlovr View Post

Where can i find the chassis number? Ive looked around inside, but i cant seem to find a number with a similar format. Can i use any of the component BP numbers to cross-reference it? Since i haven't officially asked yet, does anyone who has read this have this service manual? If i cant find one, my only option may be to roll the dice one more time and try the power supply. That will be strike three if that doesnt fix it and due to cost, i may just have to give up the quest to fix this unit.

I think your chassis number is L-66A. Do searches on that and see what comes up.

When you search for Service Manuals always search on the other dimensions too, which for the HLS6187, I think are 50 and 56"? It will say on the cover of your Owner Manual. Don't know if they made a 67" in that model.

Samsungparts.com has to have it. I always look elsewhere because generally samsungparts.com is usually not the cheapest.
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post #14 of 18 Old 08-21-2012, 09:09 AM - Thread Starter
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I have the service manual, but I can't attach as its too big. In looking at the malfunction flow chart, it looks like maybe I'm down to power board or DMD. I say that, but that's assuming I'm reading it correctly and depending on if CN9400 power is supplied??? Would there be sections you would want to see or do you want me to email you the file (its a power point)?
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post #15 of 18 Old 08-21-2012, 09:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paintballlovr View Post

I have the service manual, but I can't attach as its too big. In looking at the malfunction flow chart, it looks like maybe I'm down to power board or DMD. I say that, but that's assuming I'm reading it correctly and depending on if CN9400 power is supplied??? Would there be sections you would want to see or do you want me to email you the file (its a power point)?

For starters,
You should do the ballast test where you watch the spark gapper device.
You should do the temperature sensor jumper test to eliminate it as a problem.
You should measure the input voltage to the ballast when the tv is trying to start.
I don't know if there are any power supply output tests there, if so you should do them. If not, look at the power supply information in the SM and figure out where the output voltages should appear and measure them.
Do a physical inspection of the main power supply for obviously bad parts.
Use the SM to confirm that your replacement ballast is the correct one, sometimes Samsung has different ballasts in the same set depending on SN or date of mfg.
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post #16 of 18 Old 08-23-2012, 08:02 PM - Thread Starter
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IT IS ALIVE! while i wws deciding how to proceed with the testing, i decided to order the power supply and that fixed the problem. A huge thank you to Chuck for all of your help with my issue.
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post #17 of 18 Old 08-24-2012, 12:04 PM - Thread Starter
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Is there a function for me to "close" this thread, since I'm back up and running?
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post #18 of 18 Old 08-24-2012, 11:37 PM
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I've been following this thread because I'm currently trying to deal with an almost identical problem with my 61" Sammy HLM617WX -- and unlike the OP, I still haven't found a solution. My set has worked perfectly for the entire nine years since I bought it in 2003, and was still on its original bulb. But finally, last week the bulb died.

There are no stickers, inside or outside, to indicate the proper bulb. So I removed the old bulb from the enclosure and found it to be an Osram E23, 120/1.3. This made sense, and matched the ballast (Osram BP47-00003A). I ordered a genuine Philips replacement bare bulb and installed it in the original housing. New bulb looked identical; the only difference is that it has a 1.0 gap vs. 1.3 on the original bulb. The seller says that the 1.0 gap is all that's available from Philips, but that they are interchangeable (many other websites also confirm this). Put it all back together, but the new bulb would not fire up... the usual 3 tries, and then back to the three flashing lights.

So I next replaced the ballast with a genuine Samsung part. New ballast is also Osram, and identical to old. While I was at it, I also replaced the color wheel because the original one had been whining a bit and was clearly on its last legs. No problems replacing either the ballast or the color wheel. But again, no joy - bulb will still not fire.

Everything else seems normal. Boot sequence is the same as always - loud relay click; the melody plays; color wheel spins up; all 3 fans are running; green 'Lamp' LED in the middle of the front panel display begins blinking slowly. But the bulb doesn't come on.

Per the service manual, I checked voltages on the ballast board. It's getting the specified 380vdc from the power supply, from the moment the power button is pressed. It's also getting the 5vdc signal that triggers the lamp to fire - this appears as soon as the boot sequence completes, and the color wheel is at full rpm. Manual seems to say that the 5v will only appear if everything else reports normal operation (all fans, temp sensor, lamp door interlock switch, color wheel, etc.)

So here's what has me baffled: Doesn't the appearance of the 5v "start lamp" signal tend to rule out other problems with the DMD board, etc.? And more to the point - if the brand-new ballast is getting both the 380v power AND the 5v trigger, what else could possibly prevent the bulb from firing? Those two inputs, plus the high-voltage output leads to the lamp itself, are the only connections to the ballast. I even had the vendor send me a second new lamp, just to rule out any possibility that the first one arrived DOA.

I'm so frustrated I could pull my hair out. I've replaced all the usual suspect parts (lamp twice, ballast, and color wheel). Voltages to the ballast are fine. So why won't the freaking lamp start?? Any advice or suggestions would sure be welcomed... thanks!
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