I have a 61" Samsung HLM-617WX/XAA that I purchased in early 2003. This was one of the very first DLP sets on the market, and it has worked perfectly until last week when the original bulb finally gave up the ghost after nine years (there were lots of tiny glass pieces inside the bulb).
So I first tried replacing only the bulb. Not an easy task, because there are no labels or stickers anywhere on this set (inside or outside) indicating what bulb is required. But after removing the blown bulb from the housing, I determined that the original was an Osram P-VIP 120/1.3 E23, made in Germany. The lamp housing has Toshiba connectors (vs. the more common Philips), and the ballast is the Osram PT VIP 120AC/380 01... also known as the Samsung BP47-0003A.
I ordered a genuine Philips bare bulb (Philips E23 100/120W 1.0) and installed it in the housing. But no joy when I turned it on. The lamp did not fire up. (The only difference is that the new bulb has a 1.0 gap vs. 1.3 in the original, but the supplier insists that either will work fine and the 1.0 gap simply provides longer bulb life. This seems correct, because I've seen the same thing on other websites.)
Figuring that a bad ballast was the most likely culprit, I ordered a genuine Samsung BP47-0003A replacement which was absolutely identical to the original. And because my color wheel had been making a little noise over the last year or so, I took the opportunity to replace it as well while I had everything ripped apart.
When I powered up the set, it made all the usual startup sounds but the lamp still won't come on. The ballast is receiving a steady 380VDC from the moment the set is turned on. It's also getting the 5VDC trigger to fire up the bulb, immediately after the color wheel has spun up. So why won't the lamp fire??
To be absolutely certain that I didn't receive a defective bulb, the supplier sent me a replacement - but it won't come on either.
Per the service manual, it seems like everything is normal and I'm totally frustrated. I've now replaced the bulb (twice), the ballast, and the color wheel, but still can't get the bulb to come on. The set makes one loud click immediately after hitting the power button (as it always did); the four-note tune sounds, the color wheel spins up, and the 'lamp' light on the front begins to flash slowly (as it always did). But rather than seeing the bulb come on a few seconds later, the set attempts the startup sequence three times before giving up and displaying the dreaded three lights. Watching the ballast with the back off of the set and the safety interlock taped into position, I see a white light flashing rapidly inside a cylindrical component on the ballast board, accompanied by a faint and rapid clicking sound when the ballast receives the 5V trigger. This lasts about 3-5 seconds. But there's nothing at all from the bulb.
There's just not many moving parts involved here, and I've replaced all of the usual suspects. What I can't understand is how a brand-new ballast can't fire a brand-new lamp, when the ballast is receiving both 380VDC power as well as the 5VDC trigger. My understanding is that the 5V won't appear if any of the other components (DMD, color wheel, temp sensor, etc.) don't report that they're operating normally. So what am I missing here? Any suggestions welcomed - I really need help here!