2012 Mitsubishi 3D DLP Owners Thread (C12/642/742/842 series) - Page 13 - AVS Forum
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post #361 of 1245 Old 12-03-2012, 10:00 AM
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What are the major difference between the 92840 and 92742? I am looking to get one before they are gone. I've found an 840 for a lot cheaper but the vendor could be sketchy.

Is there a thread with recommended stands or anything as well? Thanks and it's great to be actually buying a new TV. Been 10 years! My old Mits 65" monster is still going but dated.
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post #362 of 1245 Old 12-03-2012, 11:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bonelakemafia View Post

Just received my WD92742 this weekend. holy geez, is it big once you get it into the house!
Question, though....has anyone experienced flickering initially? mine noticably goes brighter and darker randomly (non 3D). I am goin to replace my HDMIs before calling Pauls about a possible defect. a bit disappointing, but still happy with my purchase!
Thanks!

Not normal. Hopefully just a bad bulb. Might be a bad ballast. Take care of it NOW.
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post #363 of 1245 Old 12-03-2012, 11:40 AM
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While I am glad we bought one before Mitsubishi exited their rear-projection business, it is also sad that there may not be any enhancements or bug fixes. The development/support team will probably be refocused. I just hope the TV lasts for a few years without any major issues. I am sure the bulbs and other parts will continue to be available for a while.

We love the TV so far, so we are going to hang in there with a a squaretrade warranty from costco. The 3D is specatular too. For those on the fence, you should give 3D a try. PS3 glasses from best buy (they even price matched with some online retailer for $23) work great.I am still learning to compensate the settings for the loss in brightness and resolution in 3D.

Looking forward to the holiday break to play with it more.
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post #364 of 1245 Old 12-03-2012, 02:42 PM
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Just got a pair of 3D glassess for our 73842 model. Our TV uses RF, so no need for IR emitter. We bougth the samsung SSG 3050GB model at target for $24 USD. We tested the Panasonic VIERA TY-ER3D4MU at a friends house too and it has the advantage that blocks the light coming from the sides, which in the end give you a better 3D experience. Thinking to get the panasonics once the proce is dropped a bit.
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post #365 of 1245 Old 12-03-2012, 02:53 PM
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Does anyone know, first hand or otherwise, which is better 3D-IR or RF? I don't mean the fact that RF can reach out easier / further and isn't quite as line of site as IR, etc. I mean picture-wise and quality of the actual 3D effect or ;ack thereof. Is one better than the other for picture quality or is 3D just 3D and they are the same?

My experience is only with IR, as that is what came with the 82742, and it seems weak somehow-certainly not living up to the hype about 3D coming at and all around you, etc. Is RF any better?

If anyone has experienced both, I would certainly be interested in hearing about their experiences, especially if it were the same movie or other source of 3D.
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post #366 of 1245 Old 12-03-2012, 04:43 PM
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IR vs RF - these two are approches to how the active shutter glasses sync to the the TV display will not make a difference on the picture quality itself.

Try both Stanard and Reverse settings in the TV 3D menu to see if that makes a difference but be aware that most 3D in from the screen inward, not pop out.

The difference in quality if image in glasses has more to do with which glasses allow the most light through and still give decent blacks and darks. That has nothing to do with IR or RF, but the actual model and brand of the glasses.
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post #367 of 1245 Old 12-03-2012, 08:13 PM
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Hi, I just have a quick question.
I just ordered the 73 inch 73642 and would like to know if the DLP sets come with any cables included or do I need to go buy one.
Thanks.
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post #368 of 1245 Old 12-03-2012, 09:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by biocide View Post

Hi, I just have a quick question.
I just ordered the 73 inch 73642 and would like to know if the DLP sets come with any cables included or do I need to go buy one.
Thanks.

Not a one.

Get some good 28AWS or thicker 1.4a compliant HDMI cables. Best deals are on Ebay-really, they are eek.gif

I bought 5 of these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/10ft-HDMI-Cable-1-4-w-Ethernet-for-Bluray-PS3-XBOX-LED-LCD-Plasma-3D-HDTV-1080p-/390498486214?pt=US_Video_Cables_Adapters&hash=item5aeb8607c6

The seller is local to me, and the quality is superb. He gave me a break for buying 5, too. 28AWS which is a nice upgrade from the 30AWS and skinnier stuff.
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post #369 of 1245 Old 12-04-2012, 01:26 AM
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How tall of a stand do you guys recommend for a 73" DLP? I had a 65" DLP and the stand is about 20" tall. Would it be good if I could make it a few inches shorter? Our couch has recliners in it so our eye level is pretty low most of the time.
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post #370 of 1245 Old 12-04-2012, 05:32 AM
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A little shorter couldn't hurt. 20" would be fine unless you are doing the laying back thing all the time.
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post #371 of 1245 Old 12-04-2012, 06:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smcinaz View Post

A little shorter couldn't hurt. 20" would be fine unless you are doing the lating back thing all the time.
Okay thanks, just want to be ready for the big delivery Friday.
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post #372 of 1245 Old 12-04-2012, 07:18 AM
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I went to The Big Screen Store last night to negotiate a deal. They just heard about the Mitsubishi exit yesterday as well. They're likely going to shift to in-store projector sales now.

They didn't drop DLP prices yet, but they have a lot of DLP-sized TV hutches in stock that will be difficult to off load now that there's no TVs that will fit the hutches. The furniture will be the negotiating factor.

My salesman was waiting to talk to the owner today to see what can be done... I can't wait to lowball the crap out of him when he calls me back today. tongue.gif

With the 70" Sharp LCD averaging $2000, DLP has to be very price competitive now.
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post #373 of 1245 Old 12-04-2012, 09:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vivatech View Post

I went to The Big Screen Store last night to negotiate a deal. They just heard about the Mitsubishi exit yesterday as well. They're likely going to shift to in-store projector sales now.
They didn't drop DLP prices yet, but they have a lot of DLP-sized TV hutches in stock that will be difficult to off load now that there's no TVs that will fit the hutches. The furniture will be the negotiating factor.
My salesman was waiting to talk to the owner today to see what can be done... I can't wait to lowball the crap out of him when he calls me back today. tongue.gif
With the 70" Sharp LCD averaging $2000, DLP has to be very price competitive now.

$2000 70 inch Sharp LCD vs $800 73 inch Mitsu DLP

No competition at all. Prices of large LCD tvs are still too high to consider one of that size for me and many other people. The DLP is a vastly better deal, especially with the square trade warranty you can pick up through costco for around $60.00.
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post #374 of 1245 Old 12-04-2012, 11:00 AM
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Do you have to purchase the TV from Costco to get their SquareTrade warranty? Where is the $800 for 73"?
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post #375 of 1245 Old 12-04-2012, 11:36 AM
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Dell has one for $855 shipped
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post #376 of 1245 Old 12-04-2012, 11:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vivatech View Post

Do you have to purchase the TV from Costco to get their SquareTrade warranty? Where is the $800 for 73"?

I bought a Visio TV from Sam's Club and bought a SquareTrade warranty for it from Costco. That's not a problem.
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post #377 of 1245 Old 12-04-2012, 04:42 PM
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After reading this entire thread I think I'm leaning more towards getting a 740 model instead of the 742, as there do seem to be some issues with the new model (as per Brian's post). Is there any reason why I shouldn't go for a 740 model? Were there any serious improvements in the 742 model?
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post #378 of 1245 Old 12-04-2012, 05:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kostya00 View Post

After reading this entire thread I think I'm leaning more towards getting a 740 model instead of the 742, as there do seem to be some issues with the new model (as per Brian's post). Is there any reason why I shouldn't go for a 740 model? Were there any serious improvements in the 742 model?

Totally disagree,

0 problems with mine.

Last years vs this years model.

Definite improvements including a USB port that works for multiple functions and a better (IMHO) color display and screen.
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post #379 of 1245 Old 12-04-2012, 05:41 PM
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742 here, and delighted by the picture. No issues what so ever, other than the lack of 7.1 passthrough audio support, but that seems pretty much the norm everywhere.
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post #380 of 1245 Old 12-05-2012, 07:39 AM
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Dell is the C12 model. w/o 3D.

Fry's is advertising the 73642 model for the same price today ($799). I just picked one up myself...will be delivered end of the week.
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post #381 of 1245 Old 12-05-2012, 08:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vivatech View Post

Do you have to purchase the TV from Costco to get their SquareTrade warranty? Where is the $800 for 73"?

You don't have to purchase the TV from costco to get the warranty through square trade off costco's site. Dell was running a promo last week where they had the WD73C12 for $799.00 and if you used a discover, you got 10% cash back through discover plus an extra 5% for a total of 15% cashback. Brought the price of the TV down to $680 plus tax. The deal is now over, however. It also came with free shipping.
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post #382 of 1245 Old 12-05-2012, 08:45 AM
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Originally Posted by agaela View Post

Dell is the C12 model. w/o 3D.
Fry's is advertising the 73642 model for the same price today ($799). I just picked one up myself...will be delivered end of the week.

Wish I could have gotten in on that deal, however, shipping to Kansas would be expensive and they had no cash back incentives for me.
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post #383 of 1245 Old 12-05-2012, 08:57 AM
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We bought the 842 (same picture as 742) but, with the sound bar and RF 3D included. (plus the USB that a member mentioned previously).

I can tell, no problems so far here with the TV. It has been performing well, we looked for the all the issues mentioned before in this thread, but so far none of them (including during and after calibration).
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post #384 of 1245 Old 12-05-2012, 10:46 AM
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Re Whether the Mits tv's come with any cables, and where to purchase (hdmi, etc.)
Quote:
Originally Posted by smcinaz View Post

Not a one.
Get some good 28AWS or thicker 1.4a compliant HDMI cables. Best deals are on Ebay-really, they are eek.gif
I bought 5 of these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/10ft-HDMI-Cable-1-4-w-Ethernet-for-Bluray-PS3-XBOX-LED-LCD-Plasma-3D-HDTV-1080p-/390498486214?pt=US_Video_Cables_Adapters&hash=item5aeb8607c6
The seller is local to me, and the quality is superb. He gave me a break for buying 5, too. 28AWS which is a nice upgrade from the 30AWS and skinnier stuff.

IMHO, the cables at www.monoprice.com are far and away the best you can buy (quality & price). Their high speed HDMI cables are excellent and dirt cheap. 3 ft is $2.50, 6 ft is $3.50, as I recall.

High-speed HDMI cables are a must because:

Standard (or “category 1”) cables have been tested to perform at speeds of 75Mhz, which is the equivalent of a 1080i signal.
High-Speed (or “category 2”) cables have been tested to perform at speeds of 340Mhz, which is the highest bandwidth currently
available over an HDMI cable and can successfully handle 1080p signals including those at increased color depths and/or increased refresh rates.
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post #385 of 1245 Old 12-05-2012, 12:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lam23 View Post

Re Whether the Mits tv's come with any cables, and where to purchase (hdmi, etc.)
IMHO, the cables at www.monoprice.com are far and away the best you can buy (quality & price). Their high speed HDMI cables are excellent and dirt cheap. 3 ft is $2.50, 6 ft is $3.50, as I recall.
High-speed HDMI cables are a must because:
Standard (or “category 1”) cables have been tested to perform at speeds of 75Mhz, which is the equivalent of a 1080i signal.
High-Speed (or “category 2”) cables have been tested to perform at speeds of 340Mhz, which is the highest bandwidth currently
available over an HDMI cable and can successfully handle 1080p signals including those at increased color depths and/or increased refresh rates.

I got their Premium 24AWG high-speed cables for 3D per their recommendation. Costed me a couple bucks more, but they are atleast 3 to 4 times cheaper than Monsters, supposedly perform as good on the spec. I have a similarly spec'ed Monster cable, and I can't tell the difference. It's funny, but I can't tell the difference with the cable that came with my Sony 3D blueray player either :-)

But I agree that the cables from monoprice are awesome.
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post #386 of 1245 Old 12-05-2012, 12:25 PM
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Probably not the right forum, but just thought I will ask some folks doing 3D here.

Anybody has experience with monoprice 3D capable splitter: http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=101&cp_id=10113&cs_id=1011306&p_id=7522&seq=1&format=2

Are there any other splitters that will work for my situation?

I have Denon 1909 receiver that does not passthrough 3D, and I am wondering if this product will solve my problem. I considered optical, coax etc., but I really want to retain HD audio.

I have it on order and I will test it this weekend before trying the Denon forum.
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post #387 of 1245 Old 12-05-2012, 02:21 PM
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This most likely will not work. This splitter well send the same signals to both outputs, in short it will not send just the video to the TV and just the audio to the AVR.

The way HDMI works is each Sink device (that is the TV or Monitor) and each repeater device (that would be the AVR and the splitter) need to send an informational signal called EDID. This EDID tells the source device(s) upstream what signals are compatible with the repeater and/or finial destination. The source device (the Blu-ray in your case) reads only one EDID that it receives and checks all compatible and perferred video and audio formats compares these to what the Blu-ray is able to send and then sets itself up to send the best possible it can. It does not store the EDID for multiple devices, only for one.

In the case of the AVR. The TV will send it's EDID to the AVR. The AVR will read this and establish which videos the TV supports that the AVR also supports. Then the AVR sends a new EDID to the Blu-ray that is the video that both the AVR and TV support and the audio the AVR supports. The Blu-ray does not see a TV and AVR it sees a list of Video and Audio formats. In your case since the AVR does not support 3D (even though the TV does) the new video format list the AVR creates to send to the Blu-ray does not include 3D so the Blu-ray will not send 3D.

When you have a splitter such as the one are asking about, that splitter must act a little like the AVR - it creates an new EDID to send to the Blu-ray. Since both outputs of the splitter are active at the same time (this is not a switched output device) the new EDID can only be the video and audio formats that are supported by both the TV and AVR. The reason for this is to prevent the splitter from sending a signal to one of the end devices that will cause the device to have a problem.

Now in your case your TV most likely supports video in 480i, 480p, 720p, 1080i (all at 60Hz) and 1080p 24Hz and 60Hz and all of the required 3D formats. In audio your TV will support PCM Stereo in 3 sampling rates (this is required) and possibly Dolby Digita 5.1 (this in not required). Your AVR most likely supports all same video formats EXCEPT FOR THE 3D FORMATS and in audio supports the same as the TV plus DTS, Dolby Digital HD, DTS Master HD and maybe others.

The splitter receives these two sets of EDID statements and then creates a new EDID to send to the Blu-ray. That new EDID will be video of 480i, 480p, 720p 1080i 60Hz, 1080p 24Hz and 60Hz, PCM Stereo and Dolby Digit 5.1. Stripped out of the EDID is 3D video formats and the audio formats of DTS, Dolby Digital HD, DTS-Master HD and any other audio becasue the 3D and those audio formats are not supported by both destination devices the TV and AVR.

What you need is HDMI switch device that can isolate one destination at a time and repeat the EDID for that single device when in use. Or just get a Panasonic Blu-ray that has two HDMI outputs that will separate the 3D Video to directly to the TV and audio in a 1.3 format to go to the AVR.
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post #388 of 1245 Old 12-05-2012, 02:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GEP View Post

This most likely will not work. This splitter well send the same signals to both outputs, in short it will not send just the video to the TV and just the audio to the AVR.
The way HDMI works is each Sink device (that is the TV or Monitor) and each repeater device (that would be the AVR and the splitter) need to send an informational signal called EDID. This EDID tells the source device(s) upstream what signals are compatible with the repeater and/or finial destination. The source device (the Blu-ray in your case) reads only one EDID that it receives and checks all compatible and perferred video and audio formats compares these to what the Blu-ray is able to send and then sets itself up to send the best possible it can. It does not store the EDID for multiple devices, only for one.
In the case of the AVR. The TV will send it's EDID to the AVR. The AVR will read this and establish which videos the TV supports that the AVR also supports. Then the AVR sends a new EDID to the Blu-ray that is the video that both the AVR and TV support and the audio the AVR supports. The Blu-ray does not see a TV and AVR it sees a list of Video and Audio formats. In your case since the AVR does not support 3D (even though the TV does) the new video format list the AVR creates to send to the Blu-ray does not include 3D so the Blu-ray will not send 3D.
When you have a splitter such as the one are asking about, that splitter must act a little like the AVR - it creates an new EDID to send to the Blu-ray. Since both outputs of the splitter are active at the same time (this is not a switched output device) the new EDID can only be the video and audio formats that are supported by both the TV and AVR. The reason for this is to prevent the splitter from sending a signal to one of the end devices that will cause the device to have a problem.
Now in your case your TV most likely supports video in 480i, 480p, 720p, 1080i (all at 60Hz) and 1080p 24Hz and 60Hz and all of the required 3D formats. In audio your TV will support PCM Stereo in 3 sampling rates (this is required) and possibly Dolby Digita 5.1 (this in not required). Your AVR most likely supports all same video formats EXCEPT FOR THE 3D FORMATS and in audio supports the same as the TV plus DTS, Dolby Digital HD, DTS Master HD and maybe others.
The splitter receives these two sets of EDID statements and then creates a new EDID to send to the Blu-ray. That new EDID will be video of 480i, 480p, 720p 1080i 60Hz, 1080p 24Hz and 60Hz, PCM Stereo and Dolby Digit 5.1. Stripped out of the EDID is 3D video formats and the audio formats of DTS, Dolby Digital HD, DTS-Master HD and any other audio becasue the 3D and those audio formats are not supported by both destination devices the TV and AVR.
What you need is HDMI switch device that can isolate one destination at a time and repeat the EDID for that single device when in use. Or just get a Panasonic Blu-ray that has two HDMI outputs that will separate the 3D Video to directly to the TV and audio in a 1.3 format to go to the AVR.

Thanks a lot GEP, I learned a lot today. I was looking at Sony bdp-790 and Panasonic BDT-500 earlier. I haven't done much research, but will look at some Oppos, Samsungs and LGs too. Please let me know if you have any recommendations here. I was trying to find a cheaper alternative to this. I just had the splitter delivered, I will test it and report soon.
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post #389 of 1245 Old 12-05-2012, 06:10 PM
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Wow I was hoping to get the 73" 742 early next year but they may not be around. Where should I be looking to get the best price on one?
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post #390 of 1245 Old 12-06-2012, 07:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MANTI5 View Post

Wow I was hoping to get the 73" 742 early next year but they may not be around. Where should I be looking to get the best price on one?

Walts, Fry's, Paul's TV...

Local: http://www.mitsubishi-tv.com/locator/
Online: http://www.mitsubishi-tv.com/locator/online/

Act quick... I'm finding prices are going up. eek.gif
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