2012 Mitsubishi 3D DLP Owners Thread (C12/642/742/842 series) - Page 43 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1261 of 1363 Old 05-10-2015, 11:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Augerhandle View Post
Disclaimer: Be very careful while in the Service Menu. Adjusting the wrong parameter can brick your TV.
Thanks for the reply. I'm wondering how this setting may have changed when I've not accessed the service menu before . . .


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Originally Posted by TSgtMatt View Post
I have a similar problem and would like to know if this same mode in the service menu will solve my issue. On my TV the image is larger than the physical size of the TV and there isn't an option in the setup menu to shrink the image. I've never messed with the service menu so I don't know how to navigate through it or what I shouldn't do. Any advice/help would be greatly appreciated.
Just be sure there is no BD player zoom feature inadvertently turned on?
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post #1262 of 1363 Old 05-10-2015, 02:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TSgtMatt View Post
I have a similar problem and would like to know if this same mode in the service menu will solve my issue. On my TV the image is larger than the physical size of the TV and there isn't an option in the setup menu to shrink the image. I've never messed with the service menu so I don't know how to navigate through it or what I shouldn't do. Any advice/help would be greatly appreciated.

TVs usually have about 3% overscan built in. This is to avoid black edges and non content specific information appearing on the sides, top and bottom. Rear projection TVs usually have a bit more overscan to prevent any optical or geometric imperfections from showing at the edges. It is not defeat-able.


If you have excessive zooming, check your Format setting on both your TV and your source, as TSgtMatt also advised. It's very common for someone (even the dog or cat) to accidentally hit a button on the remote, changing the setting.

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post #1263 of 1363 Old 06-23-2015, 05:25 PM
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One of my latest rounds of OCD involves hanging on to my 82742 until I can afford a 4k set of the same size or larger. (I'm seeing an 85" JVC 4k at Costco for around I think $5k).

Arguably, the best time to sell was when Mitsu announced they were ceasing DLP production. That's when I doubled down and upgraded from a 73" to an 82". I sold the 73" via an ebay local pickup sale. I'm still enjoying the 82742 on a near daily basis and I know that's the most important thing. But I can't help but speculate that, by the time I'm ready to upgrade to 4k BD (which will be after UHD BD players have streeted and preferably after OPPO makes a 4k universal player available), the universe of prospective aftermarket DLP buyers will have shrunk to the point I can't sell. And I don't think I need an 82" DLP in my bedroom. LOL.

Anyone else gnashing their teeth over hanging on to their DLP past the arguable point of diminishing returns? I need a support group.

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post #1264 of 1363 Old 06-24-2015, 04:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul.R.S View Post
One of my latest rounds of OCD involves hanging on to my 82742 until I can afford a 4k set of the same size or larger. (I'm seeing an 85" JVC 4k at Costco for around I think $5k).

Arguably, the best time to sell was when Mitsu announced they were ceasing DLP production. That's when I doubled down and upgraded from a 73" to an 82". I sold the 73" via an ebay local pickup sale. I'm still enjoying the 82742 on a near daily basis and I know that's the most important thing. But I can't help but speculate that, by the time I'm ready to upgrade to 4k BD (which will be after UHD BD players have streeted and preferably after OPPO makes a 4k universal player available), the universe of prospective aftermarket DLP buyers will have shrunk to the point I can't sell. And I don't think I need an 82" DLP in my bedroom. LOL.

Anyone else gnashing their teeth over hanging on to their DLP past the arguable point of diminishing returns? I need a support group.

If it makes you feel any better, I've been looking for a 73 or 82 WD-xx840 for about two years now. I found a 73840 for sale locally a year ago, but it was sold before I could get over to look at it. I'm not local to you, but I'm sure you'll find a buyer.

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post #1265 of 1363 Old 06-24-2015, 08:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Augerhandle View Post
If it makes you feel any better, I've been looking for a 73 or 82 WD-xx840 for about two years now. I found a 73840 for sale locally a year ago, but it was sold before I could get over to look at it. I'm not local to you, but I'm sure you'll find a buyer.
I have an 82740 that's collecting dust with low hours on it if anyone is interested? Just send me a PM. Thanks

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post #1266 of 1363 Old 06-24-2015, 10:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Augerhandle View Post
If it makes you feel any better, I've been looking for a 73 or 82 WD-xx840 for about two years now. I found a 73840 for sale locally a year ago, but it was sold before I could get over to look at it. I'm not local to you, but I'm sure you'll find a buyer.
Thanks. But I guess I have to point out that you had that experience a year ago and part of what's vexing me is the passage of time given how quickly I'm seeing floor space given over to 4k displays and prices fall.

Also, looking for input on where folks have had the most luck selling and buying DLPs over the past few years. When I sold my 73", I listed it at Audiogon (very little traffic), Craigslist (again, little traffic), my Amazon Marketplace store (frustrating how many people expected it to be shipped when I stated in all caps it was only for local pickup), AVS classifieds (very little traffic) and ebay (where I eventually got the sale).
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post #1267 of 1363 Old 07-02-2015, 01:42 PM
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Hi. I have a 73642 and I can't find the latest firmware update anywhere on the Mits site. Is there anywhere the update can be found?. If I connect my tv to the internet will the update still be online?
TIA
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post #1268 of 1363 Old 07-03-2015, 06:22 AM
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If it doesn't show on their "Documents & Downloads" page, then they have none available.

https://www.mitsubishi-tv.com/suppor...ments/WD-73642

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post #1269 of 1363 Old 07-03-2015, 03:24 PM
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Quote:
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If it makes you feel any better, I've been looking for a 73 or 82 WD-xx840 for about two years now...
Keep your eyes out for a 73838, as well. Those have a great picture.
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post #1270 of 1363 Old 07-03-2015, 11:22 PM
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Keep your eyes out for a 73838, as well. Those have a great picture.

I've seen them. The 840s are better, IMO. My friend bought one, and the calibrated picture is a dream come true.

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post #1271 of 1363 Old 07-04-2015, 07:27 AM
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I've seen them. The 840s are better, IMO. My friend bought one, and the calibrated picture is a dream come true.
In general, I like the 73 inch models, as they are well matched to the light output. In what way does the '40 better the '38? Did it have the clear contrast screen?

How susceptible was that year and model to DMD failure?
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post #1272 of 1363 Old 07-04-2015, 09:45 AM
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In general, I like the 73 inch models, as they are well matched to the light output. In what way does the '40 better the '38? Did it have the clear contrast screen?

How susceptible was that year and model to DMD failure?

At the time, I believe the ad copy showed the 73" with the regular matte screen, but his 73" seemed so clear that I think it had the clear contrast screen (which showed up on the spec sheet later, if I remember correctly). I haven't been back to his house since I calibrated it (I moved several states away), so I can't confirm. I just know the picture was awesome. I have the 835 series, and it calibrates better than my son's 837 series, which is one year newer, but the WD-73840's picture blew me away.


The latest model I've seen or heard of with the DMD failure was a 737, which I believe was a 2009 model. I believe there's a good chance Mits exited the market because of the chip failures (along with already slow sales) so who knows how deep the rabbit hole goes as far as affected models. My 835's chip was replaced last year by Mitsubishi and the tech botched it, so I got a complete light engine out of the deal. If I find a local 73840 for the right price, I will jump on it, even at the risk of having to replace the chip myself later on. I love these TVs.

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post #1273 of 1363 Old 07-05-2015, 06:10 AM
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The dreaded Error Code "61" has randomly coming back to haunt me once again. If I unplug the TV for a few minutes it clears, then I'm good again for a few weeks. Hopefully this is as bad as it gets since this TV is definitely out of warranty.

First failure was right after TV reached one year old....this time the replacement Light Engine is (again) just over one year old. Seems to be a pattern here.

Error Code "61" has multiple triggers according to service manual...
Most likely cause -- Check Color Wheel / Check J6 & J7 circuitry / Engine Failure

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post #1274 of 1363 Old 07-05-2015, 08:48 AM
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... If I find a local 73840 for the right price, I will jump on it, even at the risk of having to replace the chip myself later on. I love these TVs.
Yeah, they have an image that is utterly non-fatiguing to the eye.

What part of the country do you live in?
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post #1275 of 1363 Old 07-05-2015, 10:12 AM
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Yeah, they have an image that is utterly non-fatiguing to the eye.

What part of the country do you live in?

Southeast, for the last few years.

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post #1276 of 1363 Old 07-24-2015, 09:01 AM
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My bulb has over 5000 hours on it and is getting dim...plus the TV is still randomly throwing the "61" code which may (or may not) be related.

I have a new Mitsubishi bulb to swap out, but I can't find info on resetting the lamp timer. Any help?

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post #1277 of 1363 Old 07-24-2015, 09:16 AM
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My bulb has over 5000 hours on it and is getting dim...plus the TV is still randomly throwing the "61" code which may (or may not) be related.

I have a new Mitsubishi bulb to swap out, but I can't find info on resetting the lamp timer. Any help?
I've had Mitsubishi DLPs since 2005 and the earlier models allowed you to reset the lamp timer but I don't believe the newer models do?

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post #1278 of 1363 Old 07-24-2015, 09:33 AM
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My bulb has over 5000 hours on it and is getting dim...plus the TV is still randomly throwing the "61" code which may (or may not) be related.

I have a new Mitsubishi bulb to swap out, but I can't find info on resetting the lamp timer. Any help?

No reset available. I save the old lamp for emergency use, and write down the hours on the box for future reference (I also enter the hours into my calibration file).

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post #1279 of 1363 Old 07-24-2015, 10:09 AM
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No reset available....
Well, that sucks. Thanks for the replies.

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post #1280 of 1363 Old 07-27-2015, 07:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Augerhandle View Post
At the time, I believe the ad copy showed the 73" with the regular matte screen, but his 73" seemed so clear that I think it had the clear contrast screen (which showed up on the spec sheet later, if I remember correctly). I haven't been back to his house since I calibrated it (I moved several states away), so I can't confirm. I just know the picture was awesome. I have the 835 series, and it calibrates better than my son's 837 series, which is one year newer, but the WD-73840's picture blew me away.


The latest model I've seen or heard of with the DMD failure was a 737, which I believe was a 2009 model. I believe there's a good chance Mits exited the market because of the chip failures (along with already slow sales) so who knows how deep the rabbit hole goes as far as affected models. My 835's chip was replaced last year by Mitsubishi and the tech botched it, so I got a complete light engine out of the deal. If I find a local 73840 for the right price, I will jump on it, even at the risk of having to replace the chip myself later on. I love these TVs.
what all is involved in calibrating these mits tvs, I have a 82842 that has been very good, untill recently,I put the tv on high output mode a few months ago and the buld has really dimmed alot recently.it has all brightness and contrast maxed now. What s the best buld,I keep reading conflicting reports about the phillips bulb and the phillips ultra bright and the osram bulb all being oem or the best replacement type? what have you guys tried with best success?
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post #1281 of 1363 Old 07-27-2015, 07:39 PM
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^ ^ ^ ^ I've tried quite a few different bulbs over the years. You don't want anything BUT the bulb made specifically by Mits. You can either buy it on their web site for around $119.00, which is a huge rip off BTW. But at least you get the bulb you want.

What I've done a few times is buy this bulb right here...

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ilpage_o05_s00

If I were you I'd buy more than one. Just in case you need a spare and also insurance for this TV being so old and even more outdated as time goes on.

50 bucks delivered in 2 days is a helluva good deal.
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post #1282 of 1363 Old 07-27-2015, 10:46 PM
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what all is involved in calibrating these mits tvs
It depends on how picky you are about accuracy. As gtgray and I have found the Mits are not linear so traditional means of calibration don't work very well. The internal CMS is not powerful enough. The Mits DLP's need external 3DLUT calibration like Lumagen, eeColor 3DLUT box, or madVR (HTPC use only though) to truly be color accurate. The gray scale on these sets are pretty darn good and easy to do and don't need external calibration boxes to tighten it up unlike the color.

Here's a crappy cell phone pic of a split screen shot of Better Call Saul showing off 3DLUT color correction with madVR, left side is without 3DLUT color correction but it is a bit over saturated so it could be trimmed down to spec, right side 3DLUT color corrected.
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My Home Theater/Video Gaming/HTPC/2 Channel rig (Mitsubishi, MartinLogan, Marantz, DIYMA, and others)

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post #1283 of 1363 Old 07-28-2015, 01:24 AM
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...,I put the tv on high output mode a few months ago and the buld has really dimmed alot recently.it has all brightness and contrast maxed now. What s the best buld,I keep reading conflicting reports about the phillips bulb and the phillips ultra bright and the osram bulb all being oem or the best replacement type? what have you guys tried with best success?

Only buy the lamp from Mitsubishi. https://mitsuparts.3diamonds.com/Pro...Model/WD-82842


Spend the $119. Other lamps are known to cause problems with these TVs. Buy one lamp, use your old lamp as a spare in case the new one just fails instead of dimming. If that happens, put the old (spare) lamp in to get you by until another new lamp is shipped. Don't buy extra lamps, because they will be out of warranty long before you need them. Mitsubishi is still selling lamps for TVs from 2007 and earlier, so there's no worry about scarcity of parts.

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post #1284 of 1363 Old 07-28-2015, 06:18 AM
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I am glad to see people are still enjoying the Mitsu DLPs. I love mine but I recently sold my 92 to go projector in the movie room. I still have a 72 in the living room and a 65 in the bedroom. My 72 got the white spots but I replaced the DLP chip myself which fixed it. I hope to get another 5 years out of it.
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post #1285 of 1363 Old 07-28-2015, 08:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by |Tch0rT| View Post
It depends on how picky you are about accuracy. As gtgray and I have found the Mits are not linear so traditional means of calibration don't work very well. The internal CMS is not powerful enough. The Mits DLP's need external 3DLUT calibration like Lumagen, eeColor 3DLUT box, or madVR (HTPC use only though) to truly be color accurate. The gray scale on these sets are pretty darn good and easy to do and don't need external calibration boxes to tighten it up unlike the color.

Here's a crappy cell phone pic of a split screen shot of Better Call Saul showing off 3DLUT color correction with madVR, left side is without 3DLUT color correction but it is a bit over saturated so it could be trimmed down to spec, right side 3DLUT color corrected.
IS this possible for a regular guy to do,what should a reasonably skilled home theator guy buy to calibrate this model.

What bulb does mits sell for this tv, osram or Phillips? Ive seen a Phillips ultra bright i was considering as well,Where does mits ship from,im in Va beach on the east coast. I wouldnt buy from that amazon seller,they dont even list the brand,the other link listed above discountlamps is crap also I paid for a Phillips bulb for another sony tv I have and they sent me a generic in the housing, i called and they gave me the run around. My current bulb is pretty much useless now,it was kinda dim for a few months or so but i dont watch tv in day time so i didnt care much,now in the last week it has gone WAY more dim all at once. I wouldnt even use it as a back up at this point. It went from totally watchable night time tv,to unwatchable in a couple days.
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post #1286 of 1363 Old 07-28-2015, 08:11 AM
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IS this possible for a regular guy to do,what should a reasonably skilled home theator guy buy to calibrate this model.

What bulb does mits sell for this tv, osram or Phillips? Ive seen a Phillips ultra bright i was considering as well,Where does mits ship from,im in Va beach on the east coast. I wouldnt buy from that amazon seller,they dont even list the brand,the other link listed above discountlamps is crap also I paid for a Phillips bulb for another sony tv I have and they sent me a generic in the housing, i called and they gave me the run around. My current bulb is pretty much useless now,it was kinda dim for a few months or so but i dont watch tv in day time so i didnt care much,now in the last week it has gone WAY more dim all at once. I wouldnt even use it as a back up at this point. It went from totally watchable night time tv,to unwatchable in a couple days.
I used the Disney WOW disk to calibrate mine and I thought it made a big difference but opinions will vary.

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post #1287 of 1363 Old 07-28-2015, 08:24 AM
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disney wow? sounds official lol. I just ordered the bulb from mits,good grief though to get the same 2 day shipping everyone else provides free,it was $161 with handling shipped to Va. It sounds like the generic housing are the biggest issue with other companies providing osram bulbs,Was thinking of ordering a osram bulb only as a backup and installing it into the housing that came in the tv. If this bulb lasts the same 2.5 years the first one did,ill be ready to move on to another tv before that anyway,assuming 4k becomes close to this affordable in large screen sizes as well in the next couple years.
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post #1288 of 1363 Old 07-28-2015, 09:38 AM
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Originally Posted by suncom3 View Post
disney wow? sounds official lol. I just ordered the bulb from mits,good grief though to get the same 2 day shipping everyone else provides free,it was $161 with handling shipped to Va. It sounds like the generic housing are the biggest issue with other companies providing osram bulbs,Was thinking of ordering a osram bulb only as a backup and installing it into the housing that came in the tv. If this bulb lasts the same 2.5 years the first one did,ill be ready to move on to another tv before that anyway,assuming 4k becomes close to this affordable in large screen sizes as well in the next couple years.

These are not interchangeable like light bulbs. The lamps are specifically manufactured to match each chassis model. The voltage and current draw has to be exact to prevent the TV's computer from faulting out. That's why other lamps cause problems, especially the Chinese knockoffs.


I bought a sensor for about $100 and downloaded free calibration software to calibrate several sets owned by friends and family. There is a learning curve, but after doing it several times, you start to get good at it. Each calibration can take up to 4 hours, so it helps if you are patient and a bit of a perfectionist. Start here. http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10457


There should also be a calibration thread for your model here in the forum. It will contain tips, and instructions on how to access the calibration controls of your TV.


The lamp's properties change a lot in the first 200 hours or so, then settle down and change slowly over time, until the rapid dimming that you noticed near the end of the lamp's life. Most people calibrate every year due to this lamp aging, and 200 hours after they change lamps. I found that if I calibrate the second (and final) time near the middle of the first lamp's life, there is really no need to re-calibrate at all. When the lamp is replaced, the wow factor outweighs the slightly off calibration, which improves steadily until the lamp's mid-life, and by the time the picture is off again enough to notice, it is time to change the lamp again anyway. YMMV, etc.
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post #1289 of 1363 Old 07-28-2015, 09:57 AM
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thanks,great explanation, So you are sure you cant buy the same model # osram bulb and put it in the housing yourself,this was very easy to do with the sony dlp I had?
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post #1290 of 1363 Old 07-28-2015, 10:27 AM
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thanks,great explanation, So you are sure you cant buy the same model # osram bulb and put it in the housing yourself,this was very easy to do with the sony dlp I had?

Not with any degree of confidence of getting the correct lamp. Besides, it was designed to be replaced as a unit. Plus, the heat of the lamp can degrade and warp the housing, so it is always better to just replace the whole unit.


I've seen so many posts in these forums of people with TV problems caused by outsourced lamps, that I don't think it's worth the risk, in order to save a few dollars. There's no savings if one's TV fails to work or gets damaged.

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