2012 Mitsubishi 3D DLP Owners Thread (C12/642/742/842 series) - Page 44 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1291 of 1297 Old 07-28-2015, 03:20 PM
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yea that is very true,if the bulb isnt the precise same one,it would prolly be out of spec. the housing usually looks pretty nice with past dlps ive had,but some of these companies say they are sending you oem osram and actually have no idea if its oem or not or even the right brand for that matter
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post #1292 of 1297 Old 07-28-2015, 06:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by suncom3 View Post
IS this possible for a regular guy to do,what should a reasonably skilled home theator guy buy to calibrate this model.
I use a X-Rite i1Display Pro (ID3 around these parts) colorimeter, last year they went on sale often for about $150 (normally $225-250). Learning HCFR (mentioned in Augerhandle's post) and how to interpret the graphs has a bit of a learning curve but once everything "clicks" it's not too bad. The problem with the Mits sets is like I said the color isn't linear. In other displays like LCD when you calibrate to the 75% or 100% Saturation color patterns the 50%, 25%, and 0% generally correctly fall in line. In a nutshell with the Mits if for example you calibrate to the 100% Saturation patterns then 75% is wrong, 50% is close to correct, 25% is wrong, etc. The built in CMS (color management system) can't correct this, only an external 3DLUT can. The blue on the Mits are wrong too and if you get a meter the CMS controls for it barely change it and 3DLUT's can't entirely correct for it either but much better than the built in CMS.

If you don't want to buy a meter download the AVS HD 709 disc or mp4's (This is also useful if you have a meter as it has patterns for it too):
AVS HD 709 - Blu-ray & MP4 Calibration
Read the manual first. But basically set your brightness and contrast to the black and white clipping patterns (just be careful not to set contrast too high to avoid eye fatigue). There's a pattern for sharpness. Then do the Flashing Color Bars pattern, gotta put the TV in blue only mode (in the advanced user defined mode) then set color and tint. It's not accurate but it's much better than the built in modes.

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Originally Posted by lujan View Post
I used the Disney WOW disk to calibrate mine and I thought it made a big difference but opinions will vary.
That's not calibration since there's no objective data for interpretation.

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Originally Posted by Augerhandle View Post
Most people calibrate every year due to this lamp aging, and 200 hours after they change lamps.
I calibrate about every 3 to 4 months with a few touch ups of the Contrast due to lamp aging. My family uses the TV a lot so I have to swap lamps about once a year.

Regarding non Mits lamps. My last lamp is from one of the discount lamp web sites (discounttvlamps, it was half the price of a genuine Mits lamp) and while this isn't exactly scientific in recording this anomaly but I noticed that without my 3DLUT color correction 100% Red saturation pattern the red appears red-orange and I can't even get it remotely close to what 100% Red is supposed to be with the built in CMS, only with 3DLUT correction have I been able to get it back to pure red. I do not recall my genuine Mits lamps doing this. Maybe my DLP is getting old and something is wrong with it, maybe it's the lamp, I don't know but next lamp will be genuine Mits.

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post #1293 of 1297 Old 07-29-2015, 07:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by |Tch0rT| View Post
...

That's not calibration since there's no objective data for interpretation.

...
Maybe not but that's all the calibration I'm ever going to do 'cause I don't have the patience for any more.

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post #1294 of 1297 Old 07-29-2015, 01:35 PM
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Originally Posted by lujan View Post
Maybe not but that's all the calibration I'm ever going to do 'cause I don't have the patience for any more.
That's why I lik ethe auto calibration feature of my video processor. Although I still need to a decent manual calibration since my video processor doesn't process 3D. but once that is done the calibration software works with the DUO video processor and colorimeter to auto calibrate. But even then I'm too lazy to calibrate as oftenas I should.

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post #1295 of 1297 Old Yesterday, 04:34 AM
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Maybe I just missed it, but what is the brand of the OEM bulb for our Mits DLP's? Everyone had said how good the Phillips bulb from Discounttvlamps was, so I bought a couple for the future. Then again, I still have less than 700 hours on my TV, so my original bulb may last a while yet. I just checked the settings with Disney WOW and nothing changed with regards to brightness and contrast or any of the color or tint settings. What would the actual repercussions be if the Phillips bulb is not quite up to par compared to the OEM bulb besides a slightly dimmer picture, that may be able to be tweaked back up using something like the Disney WOW disc (or the energy level in the settings)?
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post #1296 of 1297 Old Yesterday, 10:08 PM
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got my new oem bulb in,forgot how nice this tv could look,are there some settings that others have found with the advanced settings and color wheel, that can make it look better with out all the calibration software
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post #1297 of 1297 Old Today, 05:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by suncom3 View Post
are there some settings that others have found with the advanced settings and color wheel, that can make it look better with out all the calibration software
Using other people's settings doesn't work like that. Due to differences in tolerances in all the parts that make up the TV means they have to individually calibrated. Use the method I mentioned with the AVS 709 disc if you don't want to go the meter route.

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