Help, Mitsubishi WD-76534 DLP Won't Turn On - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 11 Old 03-26-2013, 09:25 AM - Thread Starter
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Our Mitsubishi 65" DLP model WD-76534 tries to turn on, but the screen will not light up. I did the self diagnostic error test from the service manual and got a '66' error code. I also read some more & watched videos online about these TVs. After reading a few suggestions people gave on Youtube videos of the same problem I'm having, I decided to try replacing the lamp ballast. I ordered it, and replaced it the other night, but it still does the same thing. I hear a rapid clicking (possibly the "arc" trying to start the bulb), but no picture. There is also a faint sound like a whistle sound effect for a bomb dropping. I tried the factory reset and to put one of my new spare replacement OEM DLP bulbs in & same thing; no picture.

I was just wondering what else might be the problem, or what to try next. By the way, error code 66 says most likely causes are 1. Loose J4 connector, or 2. Lamp cartridge or connection to lamp.
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post #2 of 11 Old 03-27-2013, 05:48 AM
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Recheck all connections. Inspect closely.

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post #3 of 11 Old 03-27-2013, 08:31 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by videobruce View Post

Recheck all connections. Inspect closely.

Thanks for the reply. I will try & do this tonight.
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post #4 of 11 Old 03-27-2013, 08:46 AM
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Those spare lamps (not "bulbs"), have you tested them first?
Are these the lamp itself or the entire lamp assembly?
Have you checked the socket for the lamp assembly ?
Arcing would be the 1st thing I would look for. What appears to be Ok, might not be.

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post #5 of 11 Old 03-27-2013, 10:09 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by videobruce View Post

Those spare lamps (not "bulbs"), have you tested them first?
Are these the lamp itself or the entire lamp assembly?
Have you checked the socket for the lamp assembly ?
Arcing would be the 1st thing I would look for. What appears to be Ok, might not be.
  • Yes, at least 1 of the 2 spare lamps was used while I was waiting on the lamp that was in it when the TV quit working a few weeks ago. I installed the one I received since it had a full warranty. Also, the lamp that was in the TV when it quit working did not appear to be 'blown' or bad like when the original lamp, & the aftermarket lamp that only lasted a week or two looked when they went bad. I've also put one or two lamps in my Grandpa's Toshiba DLP, & they were obviously bad visually as well. Is there a way to re-test them without being able to turn the TV on, perhaps a continuity test?
  • All 3 lamps I have are the complete set, i.e OEM lamp already in housing.
  • Yes, sort of. By that I mean I replaced the 'lamp ballast'. The lamp ballast for this model is a circuit board with wires coming off it that plug into the lamp housing.
  • The rapid clicking sound I hear when I try to power the TV on sounds like electrical arcing. How do I check for arcing? I would assume: remove the back cover, bypass lamp door switch, attempt to start, & look for obvious arcing?

Thanks for your help!
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post #6 of 11 Old 03-28-2013, 08:43 AM
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Quote:
Is there a way to re-test them without being able to turn the TV on, perhaps a continuity test?
Good question. Not that I know of, but I never saw anyone ask before.

The 'clicking' is the ballast trying to fire up the lamp. I believe it tries three times then quits. That tells me the lamp is bad., the ballast is bad, the wiring is suspect, or questionable voltage going into the ballast.

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post #7 of 11 Old 03-28-2013, 11:46 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by videobruce View Post

Good question. Not that I know of, but I never saw anyone ask before.

The 'clicking' is the ballast trying to fire up the lamp. I believe it tries three times then quits. That tells me the lamp is bad., the ballast is bad, the wiring is suspect, or questionable voltage going into the ballast.
  • OK, well since none of the 3 lamps worked I think we can assume at least 1 of them was good.
  • I replaced the ballast last week with a used one off a cosmetically defective TV that was tested by the seller as being good, I think we can also assume 1 of the 2 ballasts worked & that is not the problem.
  • I think the best route to pursue first is to check the wiring and voltage going to the ballast. Obvioulsy there is the visual check of wiring, but what would you do after that?
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post #8 of 11 Old 03-28-2013, 12:12 PM
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Do you have the service manual?

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post #9 of 11 Old 03-28-2013, 12:59 PM - Thread Starter
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Yes, that's how I knew what to do to run the Self-Diagnostic test, get error code 66 & then what that meant.
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post #10 of 11 Old 03-28-2013, 09:36 PM
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I'm out of ideas. Try one of those links in my repair thread. There are a cou[le of real good sites that get into board troubleshooting.

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post #11 of 11 Old 04-01-2013, 11:16 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by videobruce View Post

I'm out of ideas. Try one of those links in my repair thread. There are a cou[le of real good sites that get into board troubleshooting.

One of the other things I've read it seemed like it could be is the main board so I'll dig into that next. Thanks for all your help. I'll check out your Repair Thread in the sticky section of this forum.
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