WD73732 - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 21 Old 06-12-2013, 02:42 PM - Thread Starter
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Set is 5 y/o..replaced light engine and bulb 7/28/2012. I am now getting a message " the set will shut down in a few seconds due to insufficient air circulation" and the set shuts down with green light blinking. Could this be a faulty air flow sensor and if so does someone have a part number and a picture of it for me. Is there a fix for this problem. The screen around the bulb housing and the innards around the bulb are clean. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
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post #2 of 21 Old 06-13-2013, 07:13 AM
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Have you looked to see if the fan runs, and if there is a filter or a screen plugged or blocked.
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post #3 of 21 Old 06-13-2013, 08:13 AM - Thread Starter
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The fan runs fine and all screens are spotless. Can I remove the air flow sensor and solder the wires together. This was a recommended fix a few years back?
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post #4 of 21 Old 06-23-2013, 04:51 AM
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Check Mitsubishi's warranty page at mitsubishitv.com. They extended the warranty on your model 2 years for this problem. It's way past that now, but Mitsubishi will probably still help you troubleshoot it

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post #5 of 21 Old 06-23-2013, 04:52 AM
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Yes, you can do the same fix.

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post #6 of 21 Old 06-23-2013, 05:59 AM - Thread Starter
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Are there any pictures available to show me where the sensor and connector are located?
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post #7 of 21 Old 07-21-2013, 10:10 PM
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I took three pics of the connectors, but I can't get them from my phone/camera to the computer to upload. I'll keep trying, as I have my 57732 apart and those areas are easy to access to photograph. I'm sure the 73732 and the 57732 are similar in those areas as to the connections.
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post #8 of 21 Old 07-22-2013, 01:50 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks. I'll look forward to seeing the photos.
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post #9 of 21 Old 07-22-2013, 11:36 AM
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I used my wifes camera this morning and took another set of photos. The flash kinda washed them out, but you still can see the wires for the temperature sensor, connecting to the lamp housing (yellow pair) and to the IC mirror chip housing (black pair) with a black connector in the middle, I have disconnected (which so many others are having problems with). In one blog I read, suggested to remove the black plastic connectors and soldered in wires and using shrink wrap to cover the solder joints (the connectors have a propensity to oxidize and make a poor connection giving problems) . I was wondering if a thin film of dielectric grease would help, but I do not know about the heat problem?, but it is used on electric connection in auto engine compartments though??? Just a thought! The place where this temperature sensor connects to the IC housing (which is white in the photos) also has three fan connections, which I have removed (to add more fans to the wiring). The colors of the fan wires are red, yellow, and black (three sets). The shortest set, which is not labeled has black connectors (70mm about 3") goes to the IC housing fan a 60sq.X15mm fan. The next length [(610mm right at 2') 305mm=1'] is labeled 'JA', with white connectors, and powers the ballast to lamps 'squirrel cage' fan, 60X70X35mm, which is mounted on the ballast housing. The longest set of wires (880mm a little less than 3') and is labeled, 'JF' with black connectors, goes to power the exhaust fan 92sq.X25mmfor the lamp, and is housed in the plastic duct that is mounted above the light engine on the right side of the TV when looking at the TV from the rear. I know that you did not ask about the fans and their wires/connections but I thought I would go the extra mile since I had mine all apart. These are photos of a WD-57732 Mitshbishi DLP on a 33 Chassis, the light engine, noting the wire routing for the temperature sensor. I hope this helps you.











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post #10 of 21 Old 07-22-2013, 01:04 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks so much for the reply and great photos. I have the back of my set off and do not see this connector. Do I need to get to the light engine to have access?
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post #11 of 21 Old 07-22-2013, 03:09 PM
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Since you have a 73" you may have a slightly different light engine. Most of the photos I took are from the back and the right side of the light engine, not as it is installed. So you could see the connections. The original photo 1 is from over the lamp housing toward the DMD chip which is in the housing with all the holes in it......Let me upload some photos of how this sits in my TV. Ya, it looks like you will have to remove your light engine (LE). If you are removing the connector to/or the thermal sensor. Just be careful and slow, so as to not rip/tear the foam around the lens, keep pulling the LE out while pushing the foam up. Slow and easy! In the third photo in this set, you are looking at the DMD chip housing (the blue/gray metal) with all of the holes in it, you can see the two black wires (the ones closest to the corner, the lightly twisted pair) from the thermal sensor connecting to the upper right corner. You will have to use all 9 of the photos to make sense of it all. But you will have to remove the LE to do any work on it as there is no room to get your hands/tools in to it.





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post #12 of 21 Old 07-22-2013, 04:54 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1woN View Post

Since you have a 73" you may have a slightly different light engine. Most of the photos I took are from the back and the right side of the light engine, not as it is installed. So you could see the connections. The original photo 1 is from over the lamp housing toward the DMD chip which is in the housing with all the holes in it......Let me upload some photos of how this sits in my TV. Ya, it looks like you will have to remove your light engine (LE). If you are removing the connector to/or the thermal sensor. Just be careful and slow, so as to not rip/tear the foam around the lens, keep pulling the LE out while pushing the foam up. Slow and easy! In the third photo in this set, you are looking at the DMD chip housing (the blue/gray metal) with all of the holes in it, you can see the two black wires (the ones closest to the corner, the lightly twisted pair) from the thermal sensor connecting to the upper right corner. You will have to use all 9 of the photos to make sense of it all. But you will have to remove the LE to do any work on it as there is no room to get your hands/tools in to it.





Thanks so much. Now it makes sense to me. Tomorrow I'll open the back again and check it out.
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post #13 of 21 Old 07-22-2013, 05:43 PM
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I look forward to reading how it comes out, I hope all goes well!
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post #14 of 21 Old 07-23-2013, 06:03 PM
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LNG7; Do you have the service manual? I'll put up a link to the site were you can download it for free. I'll might get in trouble for this link, but if it helps. I put in 5 spaces in the front, so it shouldn't be blocked. Just remove them after you copy it to your search bar. I hope this helps some what. I think the information you need is on pages 13 & 13a.

http:// www. techlore. com/ download/ 36648/Mitsubishi-Chassis-V33Y-V33-Service-Manual/
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post #15 of 21 Old 07-24-2013, 08:53 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks very much for this. It will be very helpful with this fix and for future reference.Since I will have the LE out , I think I will replace the sensor also.
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post #16 of 21 Old 07-24-2013, 09:22 AM - Thread Starter
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Would you happen to know the part # for the sensor for the 73732?
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post #17 of 21 Old 07-24-2013, 10:49 AM
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It should be listed in the service manual

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post #18 of 21 Old 07-24-2013, 01:34 PM - Thread Starter
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I'm not seeing it.
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post #19 of 21 Old 07-24-2013, 06:21 PM
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Has any one purchased this part and have the numbers and were to bye one, a temperature sensor for the Mitsubishi chassis 33+ 73732 DLP TV??? You know I just spent an hour looking this up and no good! Pg. 62 for the block diagram, pg 1 of the schematics for another type of block diagram, to pg. 26 connection KB, but I loose the trace trying to find connection DT to the sensor. It says on pg. 26 at connection KB 'To Sensors & Fans' but I can't follow it any more, I looked through all the individual parts list too, I couldn't find it in there either?
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post #20 of 21 Old 07-25-2013, 09:33 PM
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TO LNG7; Wow, I thought that people would actually try and help. But, I guess that if it doesn't directly relate to them then no one cares............ This is the best that I've found, for a WD-57733 Mits Part # 299P323010 Ref# YS11A95B-C6. The model numbers are really close, if you can find some one who carries this part, then they will probably have the one for your model too. Or try using this one??? I looked this up in the parts list in the service manual and nothing even close. I hope this helps somewhat. I found this sensor on ebaY. On to the repairs..............

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mitsubishi-299P323010-YS11A95B-C6-Thermal-Sensor-WD57733-/251303221810
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post #21 of 21 Old 07-28-2013, 06:40 PM
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I pulled my thermal sensor today, and the numbers are the same! It is a KLIXON 250V/7A YS11A9B-C6, the only difference is the next set, which is; on mine V6AB for the WD-57732; and on the one on ebaY Z6AB for the 57733. I do not know if that is a run reference, or some other qualifying set of numbers? Your guess is good as mine, but at least that much corresponds, one with the other!
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