IMPORTANT NOTICE REGARDING SAMSUNG CAPACITOR ISSUE AND WHITE DOTS ISSUE - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 10 Old 01-14-2014, 03:47 PM - Thread Starter
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We are a Samsung Authorized Service Center in Washington State.

 

We just received the following message from Samsung Electronics regarding Cap Issue Repairs and White Dot Repairs.

 

"As you are aware, Samsung has been covering selected repairs of LCD/DLP/PDP capacitor repairs and selected DLP white-dot repairs under warranty. Please be advised that effective February 3, 2014, we will no longer be covering these repairs under warranty."

 

It then goes on to tell us (as service centers) to treat all of these repairs as out of warranty and bill them at our regular shop rates if the repair is assigned to us after Feb 2nd. So just a notice and heads up to anyone wondering about the Samsung "Capacitor Issue" or "White Dots Issue". If you are researching this after this date then Samsung will not be providing accommodations any longer.

 

Thanks,

John Hamilton

Hamilton & Company, LLC

http://www.hamiltoncompanyllc.com

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post #2 of 10 Old 01-14-2014, 04:33 PM - Thread Starter
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I also wanted to drop a quick message about the capacitor issue symptoms and their relation to other problems.

 

If you have a Samsung LCD manufactured between 2006 and March of 2009 and it is taking a long time to turn on and clicking or getting the startup chime multiple times while trying to turn on, then you most likely (nearly 90% chance) have a bad capacitor on your power supply. Contact your local Samsung Authorized Repair Center or feel free to contact me and we will help you figure it out. The repair could require soldering the board, however we carry pre repaired boards for most of the effected TVs and we can work with you to swap the board out.

 

If you have a SAMSUNG PLASMA TV manufactured between 2006 and 2008 and it is exhibiting the same symptoms then there is a chance that you have a bad capacitor or 2 on your board. However, our experience is that only 1 out of 30 or 40 of these that we have seen is actually a capacitor issue. There we only a few 50" models that exhibited this and even they were almost never suffering from it. Contact me and we can help you figure out what is happening. According to Samsung's repair specifications for these TV's, we were required to replace the entire power supply if it showed a capacitor problem. They did not sell or provide a repair capacitor list for these but we can work with you to either perform a mail in repair of your board or to order you a new one if you need.

 

If you have a SAMSUNG DLP TV manufactured between 2006 and 2008 and it is exhibiting the same symptoms listed in the LCD paragraph, then like the plasmas there is very little chance that this is caused by a capacitor problem on the power board. There was only a single model number listed as exhibiting this problem in the Samsung Service bulletins and it is an LED DLP (you'll know if you have one, there is no LAMP) and it has 2 power supplies. Again, Samsung's repair specifications on these were to replace the entire board. We can work with you on these if you need help.

 

Now for the rest of you. If your SAMSUNG TV exhibits trouble turning on, makes a clicking noise and then does not turn on, etc and YOUR TV WAS MANUFACTURED OUTSIDE THE 2006 to MARCH 2009 TIMEFRAME or if it was a PLASMA/DLP and does not have bulged caps on the power board, then there is very little chance that your issue is capacitor related. There are many situations that cause the TV not to power on and even to click when power on is attempted. Most of these problems (ESPECIALLY IN PLASMAS) cause what we call a "Load Down of the Power Supply". This can be thought of in layman terms as tripping the safety circuit in your TV. When a board inside the TV shorts out because of a manufacturing defect, static discharge to one of the input ports or electrical surge, this can cause irregular voltage or current usage that is detected by the power supply. To prevent a shower of sparks, further damage or a fire, the power supply is designed to "click" off. Plasmas are notorious for this due to the presence of 3 or 4 high voltage "driver" boards that feed power and picture into the Plasma panel (screen). When we hear a clicking sound or TV does not turn on, we automatically order 4 to 5 parts for a plasma and 2 to 3 parts for a LCD/LED. About 80% of the time on a Plasma the culprit is one of the High Voltage driver boards and the power supply is fine. On an LCD/LED it is caused about 50% of the time by Power supply and 50% of the time by PCB Main. Not everything can be pigeon-holed into an issue you read about all over the internet.

 

If you have questions I can easily answer them for you. Feel free to drop me a message or reply to this posting.

 

Most of these repairs can be done by the average tinkerer. Plasma repairs will require at least a good Multi-Meter. However, an authorized servicer has access to service bulletins and manuals, new or manufacturer certified parts and lots of experience with a wide range of models and issues. They also have deals with their part distributors and manufacturers that allow them to have all the parts they need in hand and send back what they don't without restocking fees or charges. These simple resources increase the ability to successfully repair a TV to nearly 100%.

 

Thanks,

John Hamilton

Hamilton & Company, LLC

http://www.hamiltoncompanyllc.com

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post #3 of 10 Old 01-19-2014, 08:27 PM
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Thought I'd post some info to people googling white dots on their dlp.

I had mine repaired for white dots by a local (I thought was only a Sharp tv shop) a couple years ago, I post in this thread about it then. The tech, with too thick an accent to speak freely to, but was kind and professional, accomodated my inquiries.

I asked if I could take a photo of the DLP, heart of my display to show my wife who was away, and left him alone to his work.

A few days ago, the samsung dlp aquired to my man cave due to being replaced by a Panny zt60 65" plasma, was pulled apart to tweak.

I found the dlp chip heat sink wiggling when I went to do the focus wheel. pulling it off, I found the old dry, crumbling heat sink paste had never been replaced.

So if you have had the one time dlp white dot problem chip replaced, be sure it has fresh heat sink compound applied.

You can apply the compound it yourself, just like a computer cpu if you want to keep your precious dlp.
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post #4 of 10 Old 01-19-2014, 09:09 PM - Thread Starter
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Although PC techs are familiar with heat compound on high performance Central Processing and Graphics Processing Units.  It is good to keep in mind that a DLP chip IS NOT a CPU or GPU.  Although all chips produce heat and some have heat sinks, it is not always necessary to bond that heat sink using a high performance heat compound like arctic silver.

 

In fact heat compound was not even used on the 386 Processor, 486 Processor and a large portion of the Pentium Processors.  Most all of these processors (with the exception of the 386) used heat sinks with bare metal clamped to the top of the processor.  When the first heat compounds were brought out, they were not like the stuff we use today.  The compounds that most people are familiar with today are rocket science in the IC world and are made for those situations where your IC or processor can blister a person even with a heat sink attached.

 

So keep in mind that different chips require different cooling parameters.  You are lighting a house with stadium lights.  This cooling technique might be overkill.

 

DLP Chips are not this class of IC.  DLP chips are literally an array of mirrors turning on and off to display a picture.  While one popular theory on DLP chip failure in the public forum is due to insufficient cooling, this has never been pushed out officially by Samsung or Mitsubishi as the official cause of DLP chip failures.  If fact there are many DLP models that have this same cooling but do not suffer from white dots issues.  This indicates that this was caused by a flaw in the chips

 

As Samsung ASCs we are obligated to stick with factory approved repairs, specs and modifications (when there are any).  The DLP repair documents DO NOT STATE that the cooling pad needed to be replaced or that heat compound should be added.  In fact a poorly added heat compound may smudge or permanently damage a DLP chip.  USE CAUTION.

 

We have done a ton of these repairs.  We have seen good heat pads and bad.  We have always repaired them and salvaged what we could of the heat pad.  We have NEVER EVER EVER had one come back.  They just don't get that hot.

 

My official stance on this however is, don't expect your authorized repair center to do this as part of the repair as it is not part of the factory repair process..  If you want to do it yourself.  Be careful and clean with the compound, a little goes a long way.

 

Thanks,

John Hamilton

Hamilton & Company, LLC

http://www.hamiltoncompanyllc.com

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post #5 of 10 Old 01-20-2014, 12:53 PM
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Hi John,


I do have one of the DLP LED tv's. I have recently been having some trouble with it. I posted it in a new thread today, but I just found this post of yours, and wondered of my problem might be related to this. Here is my problem, from the post I made today:

"I've been having some trouble with my Samsung 67" DLP LED. The problem has been occurring over the past 2 weeks or so. I turn on the tv, and it come on normally (chime, blue ring lit, etc.), but then after a few seconds, the picture goes away. There is still sound, but not picture. There is no picture no matter what source I try, and not even the menu or anything else will display. I have to turn it off, wait a few minutes, and turn it on again. This often has to be repeated over and over before it will stay on. Once it stays on, it will work fine for hours, or until it is turned off again.
More recently, it has also come on a couple of times and been noticeably dimmer, at least once going dimmer still before going black again. Again, all of this is withing the first minute or so; after that, if it's on, it stays on, as mentioned above.

I have been trying to research this problem here as well as elsewhere on the web. I don't seem to find any problem quite the same. I am finding references to bad power supplies, or to bad capacitors on power supplies. Could this be my issue as well? I also cannot seem to find a service manual online for this unit - can anyone help me out there? Other than this problem, I have had only a couple of small issues with this tv since buying it new in 2008. I had the "check fan number 3" message, that fan was cleaned and lubricated and has been fine since then. At about the same time, I had the red LED go out a couple of times. It worked after an unplug and reboot, and has not done it at all since I fixed the fan.

Can anyone help me? I'm willing to get parts and repair this if I can, but I am not sure how to diagnose the problem."



Is this perhaps related to this issue? Is this something that is still covered by a warranty?

If you have any ideas or suggestions, please advise. Thank you!
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post #6 of 10 Old 01-20-2014, 01:20 PM - Thread Starter
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Call 1-800-Samsung and ask to speak to someone about the capacitor issue.  They only cover a few of the DLP TVs so I would go in with the expectation that it will not be covered and pleasantly surprised if it is.

 

Either way.  Samsung's official repair approach for this is to replace the SUB-SMPS (power supply) instead of soldering in new capacitors.  They do not provide us with an official capacitor specification for these..

 

This is almost definitely caused by a bad sub-SMPS or a bad LED Driver board.  If you would like more help.  Fee free to message me.

 

Thanks,

John Hamilton

Hamilton & Company, LLC

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post #7 of 10 Old 11-21-2014, 12:30 PM
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Samsung 2008 TV 40 inch having this issue - Capacitors "seem" to look fine

Hi, I've been googling all over the place and this seems like a common issue with samsung TVs. MY TV is turning on and off 3 or 4 times. Green screens, loud noise and then finally turns on and works fine.

Today, I finally took the back TV panel off to check the capacitors. I know even a slight raise means it could be bad. But, I'm not seeing anything on these capacitors. Maybe a slight bump on one? There is this putty like substance on the control panel too that I'm not sure if it's normal or not.

Can anyone take a look at this screenshot and let me know if there is indeed capacitor(s) that are bad on it?

Thanks!
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post #8 of 10 Old 11-28-2014, 12:34 AM
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I have Samsung 40" LCD 550 series and having the problem of Turning tv on green wavy pic followed by a loud noise
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post #9 of 10 Old 11-28-2014, 12:43 AM
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I also read just that Samsung will fix this issue for free only before February 2014 **** that mine will be fixed also can't afford a new one
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post #10 of 10 Old 11-28-2014, 08:07 AM
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[QUOTE=HamiltonCompany;24210951]We are a Samsung Authorized Service Center in Washington State.

John, I've fixed several problems with my Samsung HL-T6187SAX/XAA (replaced the DLP chip, replaced swollen caps, replaced the BP44-01001C PCB), but am having problems with the set being extremely slow when first turned on in the morning: the Searching For Signal screen flashes for two to three minutes before the picture displays.
A TV Tech said I need to replace the main board, but I'd like to get a second opinion before doing that.

Do you think a new main board would solve that slow startup problem?
Thanks for any suggestions!
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