KF-55E200A issue - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 10 Old 06-24-2014, 06:36 PM - Thread Starter
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KF-55E200A issue

Hi, I've got Sony kf-55e200a TV, I've got left from a friend. When turned on there is no picture, green light flashes for about 30 secs and then changes to 5 red flashes.
I suspect it might be the lamp but when I take it out I can't see any damage or irregularities. Also replace lamp indicator is not on. There is a sticker on the lamp with a date in August 2013 so I'm guessing the lamp was replaced last year?

When I turn it on I can hear the fan spinning and a click/shot and after those 30secs when the LED changes to red I can hear 2 clicks.

Don't want to waste money on new lamp if it's not the issue.

Any ideas?
Thanks
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post #2 of 10 Old 06-25-2014, 06:17 PM
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Originally Posted by _eph View Post
Hi, I've got Sony kf-55e200a TV, I've got left from a friend. When turned on there is no picture, green light flashes for about 30 secs and then changes to 5 red flashes.
I suspect it might be the lamp but when I take it out I can't see any damage or irregularities. Also replace lamp indicator is not on. There is a sticker on the lamp with a date in August 2013 so I'm guessing the lamp was replaced last year?

When I turn it on I can hear the fan spinning and a click/shot and after those 30secs when the LED changes to red I can hear 2 clicks.

Don't want to waste money on new lamp if it's not the issue.

Any ideas?
Thanks
5 flashes on that set means "lamp driver bad". The lamp driver is what most of us call the ballast.

That error indication can also mean that the lamp is bad. Bad lamp is not always accurately diagnosed by the set.

You can't tell for certain that a lamp is bad just by looking at it.

There is an epidemic lately of cheap Chinese knockoff lamps that at best last a few months. Look at the name brand on the lamp, if it appears to not be a Sony, Philips or Osram (PVIP or Neolux), it's probably a cheap $38 knockoff.

The slight buzzing sounds you are hearing is the ballast trying to light the lamp. It tries three times at 15-20s intervals and then gives up.
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post #3 of 10 Old 06-26-2014, 07:14 AM - Thread Starter
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Hi Chuck,

Thanks for the response! It says Philips (Made in China) on the bulb (no brand on the casing). Is there a way how to tell if it's the ballast or the lamp?

Thanks
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post #4 of 10 Old 06-30-2014, 03:45 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by _eph View Post
Hi Chuck,

Thanks for the response! It says Philips (Made in China) on the bulb (no brand on the casing). Is there a way how to tell if it's the ballast or the lamp?

Thanks
Did some more reading - the ballast should make Bzzzzzzz sound but it's not doing it. Only buzzing comes from the main PSU board (continuous). There is around 280V on the input which is I think correct. Does this mean that the ballast is bad?
Cheers
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post #5 of 10 Old 07-01-2014, 08:12 PM
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Originally Posted by _eph View Post
Did some more reading - the ballast should make Bzzzzzzz sound but it's not doing it. Only buzzing comes from the main PSU board (continuous). There is around 280V on the input which is I think correct. Does this mean that the ballast is bad?
Cheers
I don't recall the ballast input VDC number from the SM, by the way you should have one.

When the tv processor calls for Lamp, the ballast sends ~3-5KVAC to the lamp. A sign that this voltage is being generated can be seen and heard on the ballast.

Near the HV wires on the ballast there is a component that looks like a big white resistor called a spark gap. The ceramic case on it is translucent. When the ballast is trying to fire the lamp it will glow slightly and you will hear a quiet buzz for a second or two. If the lamp fails to light the processor waits 15-20s and will try again. Repeat one more time for a total of three tries. After that it should declare some kind of fail condition.

(If the lamp lights, the ballast switches down to a run voltage of ~100-150VAC.)

If you see all those signs, and have checked the physical HV wires and connector, and still the lamp will not light, you have to conclude that the lamp is bad.
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post #6 of 10 Old 07-01-2014, 11:04 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by ChuckF. View Post
I don't recall the ballast input VDC number from the SM, by the way you should have one.

When the tv processor calls for Lamp, the ballast sends ~3-5KVAC to the lamp. A sign that this voltage is being generated can be seen and heard on the ballast.

Near the HV wires on the ballast there is a component that looks like a big white resistor called a spark gap. The ceramic case on it is translucent. When the ballast is trying to fire the lamp it will glow slightly and you will hear a quiet buzz for a second or two. If the lamp fails to light the processor waits 15-20s and will try again. Repeat one more time for a total of three tries. After that it should declare some kind of fail condition.

(If the lamp lights, the ballast switches down to a run voltage of ~100-150VAC.)

If you see all those signs, and have checked the physical HV wires and connector, and still the lamp will not light, you have to conclude that the lamp is bad.
Unfortunately I don't have manual (not sure where to get it, couldn't find anything on the net) but as I mentioned before the ballast is not doing anything - I can't hear anything from it, spark gap doesn't glow... Since there is reasonable looking voltage coming in I assume something is probably wrong with the ballast? Or could it be something else?
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post #7 of 10 Old 07-02-2014, 08:12 PM
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Originally Posted by _eph View Post
Unfortunately I don't have manual (not sure where to get it, couldn't find anything on the net) but as I mentioned before the ballast is not doing anything - I can't hear anything from it, spark gap doesn't glow... Since there is reasonable looking voltage coming in I assume something is probably wrong with the ballast? Or could it be something else?
Do a bing search for 'KDF-50E2000 download service manual'. That's the more common US model. In the hits there's a free one in the first page.

280VDC is correct.

If you are getting 280VDC and you see and hear nothing happening on the ballast, I would try replacing it. They are cheap.

Don't know about the noise from your power supply. Some hum is normal, but shouldn't be buzzing.
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post #8 of 10 Old 07-07-2014, 09:41 PM - Thread Starter
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Ah, didn't know it's the same TV. Great tip, thanks.

I've already ordered the ballast, so fingers crossed it was the reason for it not going.

Thanks!
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post #9 of 10 Old 07-08-2014, 08:17 AM
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yeah,I've already ordered the ballast, so fingers crossed it was the reason for it not going.[IMG]http://*******/W6W0dY[/IMG]thanks
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post #10 of 10 Old 07-15-2014, 08:59 PM - Thread Starter
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KF-55E200A issue [resolved]

Yay, driver arrived. After installation the spark gap is shining all blue and I can see stuff on the screen (at the moment it's only black with video input indication as it's not hooked to anything but I'd definitely call it success).

Thanks a lot, Chuck! I'm glad I asked first and didn't waste money on new lamp which wouldn't help.

Thanks again,
Tom

Last edited by _eph; 07-16-2014 at 11:10 PM.
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