WD-73727 lamp won't turn on - AVS | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 12 Old 04-25-2015, 03:41 PM - Thread Starter
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WD-73727 lamp won't turn on

Decided to clean the light engine in my Mitsubishi WD-73727 and when I put everything together it worked fine for a few seconds and then the lamp went out. The lamp is only a few months old. I also have a spare working lamp as well and neither will light up. I got a code 34 from the TV which suggests lamp. One thing I did notice is that the ballast isn't making any noise like it isn't attempting to turn on the lamp. Usually I'd hear a clicking noise when the TV turns on.

Does this seem like a ballast issue?

EDIT

Just tested the voltage going to ballast and it's 390ish volts and when it shuts down it's 30V which slowly climbs down.

Last edited by Dukenukemx; 04-25-2015 at 03:55 PM.
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post #2 of 12 Old 04-26-2015, 05:04 PM - Thread Starter
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I just tested the signal wire to the ballast and see 12v going to it. Has to be ballast or bulb is no good.
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post #3 of 12 Old 04-28-2015, 06:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dukenukemx View Post
I just tested the signal wire to the ballast and see 12v going to it. Has to be ballast or bulb is no good.

Sorry for your trouble. That's probably what would happen if I tried to clean mine. Just a thought--are you sure that the "door" to the lamp cavity is secure so that the switch is closed? The lamp won't fire if it's not.
Good luck!


Ed
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post #4 of 12 Old 05-01-2015, 12:53 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by old corps View Post
Sorry for your trouble. That's probably what would happen if I tried to clean mine. Just a thought--are you sure that the "door" to the lamp cavity is secure so that the switch is closed? The lamp won't fire if it's not.
Good luck!


Ed
Yea the door is on cause otherwise I get a status light instead of lamp light. I got the new lamp and plugged it in and didn't solve my problem. So now I pulled the light engine again and took a look at the color wheel cause that's a common problem.
I spun the wheel and only lasts for a second. Which according to that video means it's a bad color wheel. But before I buy a color wheel I want to make sure cause the price I find it for is $150 for the part number 938P019010.
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post #5 of 12 Old 05-01-2015, 04:30 PM
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Error code 34 is Lamp Cartridge Failure, and has nothing to do with the color wheel. Error 61 is Bad Color Wheel.

Did you replace the lamp AND cartridge, or just the lamp? Did you get the lamp direct from Mitsubishi? After-market lamps often cause troubles, and sometimes even damage to the TV. Not replacing the lamp cartridge opens up all kinds of other failure possibilities.


From the Owner's Manual:

Quote:

Lamp-Substitution Alert

MDEA recommends that you use only genuine Replacement Lamp Assemblies purchased directly from Mitsubishi or a
Mitsubishi Authorized Dealer or Mitsubishi Authorized Service Center. MDEA advises that replacement lamps obtained
separately from the Lamp Cartridge and/or Lamp Assemblies obtained from unauthorized sellers may be incorrect for
your television, may not fit or perform properly and may even damage your television
. MDEA can not be responsible
for the performance, reliability or safety of any replacement lamps that are obtained from unauthorized sources

"The wise understand by themselves; fools follow the reports of others"-Tibetan Proverb
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post #6 of 12 Old 05-02-2015, 05:42 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Augerhandle View Post
Error code 34 is Lamp Cartridge Failure, and has nothing to do with the color wheel. Error 61 is Bad Color Wheel.

Did you replace the lamp AND cartridge, or just the lamp? Did you get the lamp direct from Mitsubishi? After-market lamps often cause troubles, and sometimes even damage to the TV. Not replacing the lamp cartridge opens up all kinds of other failure possibilities.


From the Owner's Manual:
I replaced both lamp and cartridge but it's a cheap $20 lamp. According to this website the code 61 is for newer DLP TV's. My 2006 73727 wouldn't give out the code 61.
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post #7 of 12 Old 05-02-2015, 10:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dukenukemx View Post
I replaced both lamp and cartridge but it's a cheap $20 lamp. According to this website the code 61 is for newer DLP TV's. My 2006 73727 wouldn't give out the code 61.
Well it doesn't matter does it? Error code 34 (the only code you have, BTW) is "Replace Lamp" for both TV models. Why would one think a $20 lamp would work as well as a $250 lamp, anyway?

I have read many, many posts on the forums of TV trouble after replacing the lamp from a source other than Mitsubishi. I just hope it didn't wreck something in yours, and a new MITSUBISHI lamp fixes the problem. https://mitsuparts.3diamonds.com/Pro...Model/WD-73727

http://www.fixyourdlp.com/2012/08/20...neric-lamps-2/

http://www.fixyourdlp.com/2011/06/15...ojector-lamps/

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post #8 of 12 Old 05-02-2015, 11:12 AM - Thread Starter
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Trust me I've been through a lot of lamps lately before this event occurred and didn't realize I was buying cheapo lamps. Normally I was buying OSRAM lamps. Don't know how you feel about that brand. But I doubt the problem I have is lamp related but I swear my next lamp will be a Philips. Mostly because my picture was getting dimmer and harder to see when the lamp is at least 1 month old. Also I don't hear the ballast fire at all when I turn on the TV. No ticking noises or anyway.

But I ordered a new color wheel for $150 anyway cause I dropped my old one and it shattered to pieces. I also got a new formatter board as well for $30 off Ebay and will post here again which of the two does if at all fix my problem.
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post #9 of 12 Old 05-02-2015, 04:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dukenukemx View Post
Trust me I've been through a lot of lamps lately before this event occurred and didn't realize I was buying cheapo lamps. Normally I was buying OSRAM lamps. Don't know how you feel about that brand. But I doubt the problem I have is lamp related but I swear my next lamp will be a Philips. Mostly because my picture was getting dimmer and harder to see when the lamp is at least 1 month old. Also I don't hear the ballast fire at all when I turn on the TV. No ticking noises or anyway.

But I ordered a new color wheel for $150 anyway cause I dropped my old one and it shattered to pieces. I also got a new formatter board as well for $30 off Ebay and will post here again which of the two does if at all fix my problem.
My Mitsubishi lamp was made by Osram. It's not the brand of lamp that matters, it's the specifications of the lamp. There is not one lamp standard, like with light bulbs. Each TV chassis model is designed to work within specific parameters, as are the lamps to match. Cheap lamps are knock offs, made in China with little control over quality by Mitsubishi.

Quote:
Trust me I've been through a lot of lamps lately
This one sentence speaks volumes.

Anyway, I was just trying to be informative and help you out. Good luck in your journey. I hope you get your set working again soon.
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post #10 of 12 Old 05-06-2015, 08:20 AM - Thread Starter
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Well I got the color wheel and the formater board and the formater board got a picture going. The wire to the color wheel sensor fell off, but I don't think this was the problem. I soldered new wires to the color wheel sensor and covered it with aluminum tape. The color wheel was installed first with no success, but the formater board got it working.

My problem now is the picture is corrupt. I see a black bar across the screen and some corruption here and there. Not sure why.

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post #11 of 12 Old 05-06-2015, 10:53 AM - Thread Starter
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Fixed the corrupt picture. I figured it was the DLP chip not making proper contact with the formater board and I was right. I cleaned the contacts and instead of a thermal pad I used, I put thermal paste. Same stuff I use in computers. Put it back together and the picture never looked brighter. Course now the picture is out of alignment. Though it was always like this from day 1 I bought it, but now the alignment is worse. It's only visible when using my HTPC. Don't know why cable TV doesn't have this problem. It's moved too much to the right and up. Like a good inch.
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post #12 of 12 Old Today, 01:08 AM
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Has to be ballast or bulb is no good.
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