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Beloved Mitsubishi wd-73738 problem

5K views 31 replies 7 participants last post by  michanecash 
#1 ·
I was changing the bulb in the above the TV. All went OK although the bulb was a little difficult to get mounted in. Fitment seem to be a little tight and I had to push pretty hard to get the connector to go in. But TV turned on OK and everything was fine for about 30 seconds. Then the screen started to flicker and a bearing noise from a fan inside started. Only thing I can think is that the color wheel is going bad. Any advice? Here's a video
https://youtu.be/8TbMREw4n84
 
#2 ·
There are several fans, you should be able to see/feel/hear which one ( might have to pull the covers off).

For the color wheel, possible. What happens if you immediately restart it? If the noise is there immediately, maybe color wheel, if not then I doubt it.

Since you had problems installing the lamp, I would pull it and look in that area first - for fans or at the color wheel glass to make sure you didn't damage anything.
 
#3 ·
If you restart it, it works fine for about 20 seconds. I would assume with the flicker it would have to be the color wheel. What other bearing driven item would cause that?
 
#4 ·
Oh and I did take the lamp back out and look and I can't see and impact marks or damage. It was extremely difficult to install though. I think it happen more from the jostling of the TV being moved however.
 
#5 ·
OK...Lets get you up and running again! ;)

The first red flag is the difficulty putting the lamp in. It SHOULD NOT BE DIFFICULT and if it is DO NOT FORCE!

You need to pull the lamp and shine a flashlight inside where the lamp goes in the light engine. Look for and check the lamp connector to make certain it hasn't 'melted' or 'distorted' from the heat of the lamp. That is what I believe may be your issue, but there is more.

Behind the lamp (looking from the rear towards the front) is a fan. Be certain nothing is stuck/jammed in there that could cause your bearing sounding noise. I've never heard a color wheel sound like a bad bearing.

Finally, what 'code' flashes on the front panel when it shuts down?

Have no fear, these are easy to repair yourself and not very expensive depending on the issue.
 
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#6 ·
Thanks for the response. Didn't check until late tonight but I will go through checking these things tomorrow after work and post back what I find. Thanks
 
#8 · (Edited)
I was changing the bulb in the above the TV. All went OK although the bulb was a little difficult to get mounted in. Fitment seem to be a little tight and I had to push pretty hard to get the connector to go in. But TV turned on OK and everything was fine for about 30 seconds. Then the screen started to flicker and a bearing noise from a fan inside started. Only thing I can think is that the color wheel is going bad. Any advice? Here's a video
https://youtu.be/8TbMREw4n84

Don't jump to conclusions about the color wheel. First things first, the lamp didn't fit and the problem started after replacing it. I assume it was not purchased from Mitsubishi. If so, return it and order directly from Mitsubishi. https://mitsuparts.3diamonds.com/Products/PartsForModel/WD-73738



ME-VIS recommends that you use only genuine Replacement Lamp Assemblies purchased directly from Mitsubishi or a Mitsubishi Authorized Dealer or Mitsubishi Authorized Service Center. ME-VIS advises that replacement lamps obtained separately from the Lamp Cartridge and/or Lamp Assemblies obtained from unauthorized sellers may be incorrect for your television, may not fit or perform properly and may even damage your television. ME-VIS can not be responsible for the performance, reliability or safety of any replacement lamps that are obtained from unauthorized sources.
https://www.mitsubishi-tv.com/support/faqs#faq_1
 
#11 · (Edited)
Wrong lamp, completely different power plug. Switch the new bulb to the old case or swap connectors, whichever works best for you.



STOP!!! after 1:47 in the video!!!

You now have the light engine out. Check around back of it for the fan and see if there is any damage or if it can be snapped back into place.

6:29 to reinstall.
 
#24 ·
Wrong lamp,
Breaking the fan housing was secondary. It's the wrong lamp. These are not like light bulbs, they are specifically designed for each chassis model. Get a Mitsubishi lamp.
Caused by using the wrong lamp...





Hey, I tried to help 3 times, I'm outta here.
Augerhandle is very knowledgeable regarding DLPs. It's unwise to reject his assistance, freely given.
All Augerhandle did was repeat what was already stated and known. He offered no other advice, just wanted to take his marbles and go home.

DLPs aren't difficult to understand and troubleshoot and repair. So if his "freely given assistance" remains at repeating what has already been stated, that holds no added value to the discussion and his 'contribution' won't be missed. :rolleyes:
 
#13 ·
LMAO. LUV the video responses, excellent to get your point across.

Sure, if you can epoxy it nicely, should only need a dab. Check it all out though. See what it takes to remove the fan itself and see what is actually snapped. You're a mechanic, you can take things apart and put them back together again. ;)
 
#14 ·
Should be 4 screws holding the black plastic lamp/fan housing/assembly to the metal light engine itself. Sort of like a transmission being bolted to an engine (you know what I mean)
 
#15 ·
Cool. I think the videos are the easiest way. I just don't understand why the fan causes the screen flicker if it's a cooling fan it shouldn't have an issue until there's a heat issue.
 
#17 ·
I would presume the flicker is from the poor lamp connection...
 
#18 ·
Caused by using the wrong lamp...


I've witnessed so many people on these forums changing color wheels, ballasts, main boards, only to finally get the right lamp installed.


Hey, I tried to help 3 times, I'm outta here.
 
#20 ·
I wouldn't be so quick to dismiss Augerhandle's advice. He's the one who steered me right when my 73835 started to have white spots (the DMD chip went home).

Sure, you can jam in the wrong bulb, but you're paying for it now. Bit like putting diesel into a petrol engine. It ain't supposed to go there mate....

Enjoy.

Seggers
 
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#21 ·
No one is dismissing him. I already agreed it was the wrong connector and that it should be changed out with the original. The lamps themselves are the same, the lamp housing and connector is what is different. Depending where/when he bought the lamp, he should ask for a refund if they sent the wrong lamp. But if the OP ordered the lamp and it was wrong, then it is on him. Has happened to me in the past. ;)
 
#22 ·
So then, how's everything going?
 
#25 ·
I did not read the entire thread, and I'm sure others tried to explain to the poster that he used the wrong lamp.

If you read these threads long enough you will see that Augerhandle is a real DLP enthusiast, with a great deal of familiarity with these sets. My "endorsement" of Augerhandle's advice was not just an endorsement of him, but of the concept that he and others propounded. I simply wondered why there was so much resistance from the poster to the notion that the wrong lamp was used.

In one sense DLPs are simple, although the operation of the DMD itself is somewhat sophisticated, and the reasons for its operational failure in commercial sets is very interesting.
 
#26 ·
Augerhandle is a real DLP enthusiast
And this means others aren't? I don't believe there was any resistance by the OP about his getting the wrong lamp. I think he fully understands why when he forced the lamp in, it broke the fan housing and lamp connector. Because it is the wrong lamp.

The OP is new at this. As I said, these aren't difficult to diagnose/repair. He is learning and likely has it back up and running by now which is why he hasn't been back.

I may have joined this site a few months ago, but I have been here since this place started. ;)
 
#27 ·
Wow that escalated quickly. Sorry I work very long hours and have not had time to attempt repair. I epoxied the fan housing back in installed a manufacturer bulb. It fired up turned on and made a similar noise. I think the bearing in that fan is bad. It looks like it can be replaced but I was unable to find it anywhere online. Any help in finding it would be appreciated .

Oh and to put it to rest, I am an idiot and bought the cheap alternative rather than the manufacturer specified bulb and caused all of these issues by my own hand. Lesson learned. I have had many DLPs over the years and have never bought OEM bulbs, never had any issue until now. I will buy them moving forward however. Thanks for everyone's help. I appreciate it.
 
#30 ·
I have to take it back apart. I'll let you know
 
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