Samsung DLP -N- series tweaks thread - Page 7 - AVS Forum
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post #181 of 1754 Old 06-17-2003, 04:30 AM
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Jason,

Any advice as to why I couldn't get my Radio Shack 6-in-1 (15-2104) remote to work right? I programmed the device, and was able to control the TV (power on, power off, volume, PIP, etc.).

Once I was able to do that, I pressed the "p" button to try the discrete code. Then I pressed "152" to turn off the TV. I also tried "7152", and some other variations. I noticed that the TV's LCD blinked whenever I pressed a button/number, so I believe it was seeing some of the codes, just not the right ones. I believe "158" does PIP or some Antenna scan (BTW).

So, what am I doing wrong?

Thanks!
-John
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post #182 of 1754 Old 06-17-2003, 08:37 AM
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Maybe I am missing something. What exactly will the discreet codes do? And will the addition of discreet codes work for people just using the samsung remote? If samsung is not replacing the remotes, why would they add codes for which the remote wont even use? On another note, I have a PocketPC which has TV Remote Controller on it which uses CCF files made with the Pronto software. As I understand it, I can use the pronto software to program these hex codes into a CCF and then transfer it to the pocketPC. I can then use the PocketPC to train my Radio Shack 6-in-1, right? If this makes any sense, please let me know. Thanks.

rayz007

BTW, I have a HLN617W rev. 208 March 2003

"Will you stop #$@%'ing around with the #%$^'ing TV already!" - wife
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post #183 of 1754 Old 06-17-2003, 08:42 AM
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Quote:


Originally posted by rayz007
Maybe I am missing something. What exactly will the discreet codes do? And will the addition of discreet codes work for people just using the samsung remote? If samsung is not replacing the remotes, why would they add codes for which the remote wont even use? On another note, I have a PocketPC which has TV Remote Controller on it which uses CCF files made with the Pronto software. As I understand it, I can use the pronto software to program these hex codes into a CCF and then transfer it to the pocketPC. I can then use the PocketPC to train my Radio Shack 6-in-1, right? If this makes any sense, please let me know. Thanks.

rayz007

Rayz,

Basically it boils down to lots of us having programmable remote controls that offer the use of macros. Let's say for instance the you when you go to turn on your theater setup, you always want the tv to turn on, tune to the DSS input via DVI and switch to channel 199. In almost all cases, there is no way for your remote to know what the status was of the tv when you turned it off... so without being able to directly select a particular input, in this case the DVI input, you would be screwed and have to do it all manually... which is a pain and is not usually an accepted practice by most people's significant others.

With discrete power codes, rather than having a button that toggles between on and off, you get one code to turn the tv ON, and another different code to turn it OFF. Same thing with the inputs... you would get separate codes to select DVI vs. Comp1 vs. S-Vid3 or whatever. MASSIVELY USEFUL for those of us that need to make our setups as "user friendly" as possible.

Hope that shed some light...

Later,
Jeff
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post #184 of 1754 Old 06-17-2003, 08:49 AM
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Myki,

I should apologize for shooting my mouth off over a simple, innocent comment. Your national origin and financial status was not an issue at all. I am a teacher, trainer and father and fail to make the mental transition at times when moving outside of those roles. We all are prone to see life through the filter of our own experiences. I was projecting into your circumstances what I recently encountered in my own life.

It is certainly possible that some ISF calibrator could offer their services for free. You may well be a fine, generous individual who deserves such a gesture.

Best regards and beautiful pictures,
G. Alan Brown

Insist on HDTV!
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post #185 of 1754 Old 06-17-2003, 08:49 AM
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Jeff, you have no idea how true that is as far as the significant "other" goes, lol. I understand now. I programmed macros on the RS 6in1 and I had to make sure I left the TV in a "default" state in order for the macros to work. So now I wonder if its worth the $200 to have these discreet codes. Are you going to do the upgrade. I have the same rev as you I think(208 March 2003). Let me know if you make progress on the codes.
Thanks for your help.

rayz007

"Will you stop #$@%'ing around with the #%$^'ing TV already!" - wife
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post #186 of 1754 Old 06-17-2003, 09:02 AM
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Johnevo,

To be honest, I have not used that remote to program discretes. From what I understand, you need a jumper jable from your computer to the remote to be able to enter the device and functions codes manually. The function code "152" does not refer to a series entered from the remote, but rather a binary packet of data called a function code that the remote sends to the TV. This function code needs to be assigned to a button on the remote. For more information on how to do this, check here:

http://www.remotecentral.com/cgi-bin...e4all/list.cgi

rayz007,

The remote control chipsets used in different brands are often made by the same handful of companies(NEC etc..). The manufacturer of the TV then "assigns" a device code to the TV and then decides which of the 256 function codes they want to use for each command. For instance, the HLN617W uses device code 7:7, and out of the 256 commands available for device code 7:7, they only use about 50 or so (fuction code 1 is TV/Video, function 2 is power toggle, function 3 is sleep etc...). The discrete commands are often hidden in other places in the function table. Panasonic for instance uses one device code for the OEM remote, but the TV will respond to discrete commands from another device code (128 and 128:4 if memory serves). It is not uncommon for a product to have a lot of discrete commands available but only have toggle functions from the remote. The Pro-Scan PSHD105 is a good example. This reciever has discretes for everything including aspect, input, etc. The remote that comes with it only toggles all of the functions(and slowly I might add). The reason they are not on the remote is simple economics. Remotes with more buttons cost more to build. Most people are content with the TV toggling because they don't know what a macro is and could honestly care less. Discrete codes are useful to the handful of people who know that there is a better way to make things work.

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post #187 of 1754 Old 06-17-2003, 09:19 AM
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Quote:


Originally posted by rayz007
Jeff, you have no idea how true that is as far as the significant "other" goes, lol. I understand now. I programmed macros on the RS 6in1 and I had to make sure I left the TV in a "default" state in order for the macros to work. So now I wonder if its worth the $200 to have these discreet codes. Are you going to do the upgrade. I have the same rev as you I think(208 March 2003). Let me know if you make progress on the codes.
Thanks for your help.

rayz007

Ray,

Actually I don't have the same version of firmware... mine is 204-Novemeber 2002... so I am most likely screwed in terms of getting the discrete codes that have been published so far. In all likelihood I will need to have a firmware update, not the $200 board thingy. If I can't do a firmware without dropping $200 to get a new board with the EXACT same hardware on it that I already have... well, let's just say I will have to think LONG AND HARD before I buy redundant hardware for a friggin firmware update. Ugh!

Later,
Jeff
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post #188 of 1754 Old 06-17-2003, 09:25 AM
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Hi Jason,

From what I've gathered from the Remote Central site, as well as a few other sites, I should be able to enter codes directly into the remote through a series of key-presses. My remote doesn't have any external interfaces, but it's one that will allow "advanced codes" to be programmed. Here's a link if you're interested:

http://www.hifi-remote.com/ofa/faq.shtml#[1.13]

If anyone knows how to do what I'm talking about, please let me know! I've been able to get things to happen by trial-and-error, but I obviously don't know enough to achieve my objectives!
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post #189 of 1754 Old 06-17-2003, 09:38 AM
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The external interface is in the back in the battery compartment. The Link you posted showed how to enter the "advanced codes" in section 1:13. It says to enter the code "994" after holding the Magic button then press the Magic button again followed by the code.
[1.13] How do I assign an advanced code to a button?

This involves a similar sequence to the key mover function. The difference is that the advanced code sequence is used instead of the source button.
PRESS the device, (TV, VCR, CABLE, etc.), button - RELEASE
PRESS and HOLD the MAGIC button until the red LED flashes twice, then RELEASE.
PRESS 9 - 9 - 4.
PRESS the "MAGIC" button and then the three digit extended function.
PRESS the button you wish to use for that function - Two Blinks.

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post #190 of 1754 Old 06-17-2003, 10:45 AM
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I'll check the battery compartment tonight when I get home.

I know the text that you cut/pasted quite well... isn't the "advanced code" or "extended function" the same thing as a discrete code? At least that was my belief. (??)
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post #191 of 1754 Old 06-18-2003, 07:25 AM
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How the heck did this thread turn into a Universal remote thread

Has anybody figured out how to turn off black enhancement yet?

Matt
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post #192 of 1754 Old 06-18-2003, 01:00 PM
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Where in Cent. IL are you? I'm in Bloomington. I'm in a conundrum as to which set to buy Philips LCoS, Sammy 46 inch, or the new "soon to come" (famous last words), Sony LCD, either the 42 or (KF50WE610). Sony says its supposed to be great PQ (ya, they all say that) besides I'm concerned with potential burnin!
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post #193 of 1754 Old 06-18-2003, 01:03 PM
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Matt:

What would the improvement be if we could turn off black enhancement? My main problem is that the colors are too bright on HD stations which distorts the color. Maybe AVIA is an answer. I may try an analog signal booster from the cable, bypassing the 5100 and going directly into the VCR for SD. Digital stations from the cable are pretty good.

Rich N.
HLN-5065W
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post #194 of 1754 Old 06-18-2003, 01:28 PM
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Wonder how many are going to upgrade to the new board from Samsung ($200.00) for the HLM TV's??



Geoffrey
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post #195 of 1754 Old 06-18-2003, 02:31 PM
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Quote:


Originally posted by PHSJason
Discretes found so far

device code 7 function code 152 "off"
0000 006d 0000 0022 00ac 00ac 0015 0040 0015 0040 0015 0040 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0040 0015 0040 0015 0040 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0040 0015 0040 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0040 0015 0040 0015 0040 0015 0040 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0040 0015 0040 0015 0015 0015 0689

device code 7 function code 151 "on"
0000 006d 0000 0022 00ac 00ac 0015 0040 0015 0040 0015 0040 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0040 0015 0040 0015 0040 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0040 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0040 0015 0040 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0040 0015 0015 0015 0040 0015 0040 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0040 0015 0040 0015 0015 0015 0689

Tested these commands, both work. No luck with inputs yet, possibly a sub device code??? 7:1, 7:2????


Jason

FYI These do not work on my HLN507 purchased in May. I believe the manufacturing date was in December.
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post #196 of 1754 Old 06-18-2003, 02:33 PM
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Quote:


Originally posted by PHSJason
SIR-TS160 discrete power codes

Device Code: 9.9 Function: 152-On

0000 006D 0000 0022 00AC 00AC 0015 0040 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0040 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0040 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0040 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0040 0015 0040 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0040 0015 0040 0015 0040 0015 0040 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0040 0015 0040 0015 0015 0015 070A

Device Code: 9.9 Function: 153-Off

0000 006D 0000 0022 00AC 00AC 0015 0040 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0040 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0040 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0040 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0040 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0040 0015 0040 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0040 0015 0015 0015 0040 0015 0040 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0040 0015 0040 0015 0015 0015 070A


Tested hundreds of times, both work

I have an SIR-TS165 and these codes do not work on it. Does anyone know if discrete on/off codes have been discovered for the 165?
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post #197 of 1754 Old 06-18-2003, 02:48 PM
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Quote:


Originally posted by WildWillie
FYI These do not work on my HLN507 purchased in May. I believe the manufacturing date was in December.

You MUST have the version 208 firmware in order to have a prayer of these working. Most likely you have a version 204 or earlier set of firmware on your set. I don't think version 208 is present in any sets manufactured before April 2003. Just fyi...

Regs,
Jeff
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post #198 of 1754 Old 06-18-2003, 05:17 PM
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I am new to discrete codes. I understand the basic idea and I have an HLN617 so I need them. I am obviously missing something. I would think there would be one code for ON and one for OFF. Why do I see 72 HEX codes for each? Sorry to be so slow, but any help would be appreciated. In any event, it is only academic , since it seems that the HLN617 doesn't have discrete codes, at least for input selection where it is needed.

Pete
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post #199 of 1754 Old 06-19-2003, 05:16 AM
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Each grouping of hex codes makes up the IR code. If IR codes were limited to two bytes worth then there would only be a grand total of 256 codes for every single component known to man... and all without error correction or any other protections against random IR patterns causing things to happen.

The code, as presented, is suitable for putting into the Pronto software, which generates CCF files. There are quite a few remotes that can use those files, one way or another, to program the remote via computer (the MX-700 is the latest - with the new software update it has a "Global Explorer" which lets you drag and drop codes from CCF files).
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post #200 of 1754 Old 06-19-2003, 06:20 AM
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Zathrus, thanks for the explanation. I have an MX-500 remote and hope to get an IRCLONE interface for my computer. Unfortunately, without a method of selecting inputs discretely, there is no point in proceeding.

Pete
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post #201 of 1754 Old 06-19-2003, 07:16 AM
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How much was the IRCLONE? THe website sayus they are out of stock and show no price.
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post #202 of 1754 Old 06-19-2003, 05:25 PM
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The discrete IR codes found in Post #163 in this forum work with my HLN507W, Release date Apr 2003, firmware v209. Way to go!!! Keep them coming.
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post #203 of 1754 Old 06-24-2003, 10:25 AM
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-I just bought my HLN507W this past weekend, and it has the Manufatured date of Apr 2003, how do I find out if it has the discrete codes?

-Also, can't seem to get the side-by-side PIP working??? I have my main screen on C3(HD Cablebox) and I hit the PIP(source Antenna), but when I hit the size it only gives me "Large" and "Small"??? I thought that I could do this???

-Where are the "Audio" outputs on the tv and how do I shut off the speakers in order to use my stereo as my sound source?

Thanks very much in advance!!

GO SOX!!!!
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post #204 of 1754 Old 06-24-2003, 10:47 AM
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Sorry...One more addition to my last post...
-How do you do the "video input labeling"?

GO SOX!!!!
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post #205 of 1754 Old 06-24-2003, 11:08 AM
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There is no video input labeling available on the Samsung DLP's yet. As for the discrete codes, the manufacture date does not necessarily mean that the firmware date is the latest. You need to get into the service menu (with power off press: mute, 1, 8, 2, power). The firmware and release date will be listed on the bottom. If it is firmware v209, you have discrete codes that will need to be copied from Post #163 in this forum and pasted into your remote in hex format. There is currently no remote available that has direct access buttons to learn into another remote so you will need a computer programmable remote to accomplish this. The only codes available so far are ON/OFF. Direct input commands will be available shortly. Good luck.
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post #206 of 1754 Old 06-24-2003, 03:02 PM
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Quote:


Originally posted by DingoAce10
-
-Where are the "Audio" outputs on the tv and how do I shut off the speakers in order to use my stereo as my sound source?

Thanks very much in advance!!

The audio outputs are labeled "Monitor Out".

Just turn the volume all the way down. The monitor out jacks are not affected by the TV volume control.
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post #207 of 1754 Old 06-25-2003, 01:44 PM
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Thanks WildWillie!
I figured out though that the Component inputs will not work through the Monitor out...So I took all of the analog audio inputs out and put them into a switch. Then from the switch to my stereo and seems to work just fine..
I am getting the Sony "auto-switcher" so the switch will detect what source is coming though and switch inputs automatically...Otherwise I have to manually do it or do it with a remote...

GO SOX!!!!
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post #208 of 1754 Old 07-10-2003, 11:25 AM
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So far with my HLN507W (less than a week), there are two major color issues I want to be able to tweak. First, there seems to be a bit of red saturation (is that what people are calling clay faces?) on DVDs (component 1)? The Cool1 setting seems to help significantly on that, though I'm still not 100% happy with that setting (other colors are a bit drab).

Second, X-BOX games seem to be way to dark on Component 2. I think it's a Gamma issue, but am wondering if others have noticed this too. Did going to the service menu and turning Gamma to 0 help? The SM settings are by input, right?

I'm a bit reticent to enter the service menu yet. I've heard I need to log about 100 hours anyway before I start really tweaking things. Still, I don't think these issues will be going away...

Panasonic TC-P60VT60 Plasma
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post #209 of 1754 Old 07-10-2003, 11:33 AM
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I also have an HLN507. For XBOX, I prefer Gamma 2, DNIe: On and DNR: On. Gamma 0 is too dark for my taste.
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post #210 of 1754 Old 07-10-2003, 02:07 PM
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Acruther,

Have you calibrated your set with either Avia or Video Essentials? The default settings of my HLN507 had brightness too low, and color a bit high so my Xbox as well as DVD appeared dark and reddish like what you are experiencing.

I used Avia both for my DVD player, and my Xbox.

The default settings also give the "clay faces" effect and this is why others have tweaked their units to remove it or either had an ISF calibrationist do it. According to a lot of testimonials, if you get a DVD player with a DVI output, the clay faces will be eiliminated and picture quality will improve.

If you do decide to enter the service menu, take down all the settings and store it somewhere safe just in case.

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