New Hitachi 20B owners - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 31 Old 04-30-2003, 02:48 PM - Thread Starter
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Change all these parameters in the ISF menu and see what you think:

RY-PH-4,f&G to 02
R/B-GA4,F&G to 03
GY-PH-4,F&G to 02
G/B-GA4,F&G t0 04

APRTR-4,A,C,E to 0

VSM-PH4,A,C,E to 0
VSMGA 4,A,C,E to 0

COLORGO to 0

SRTGA to 0

G-STR-0 to 0

Be sure to write down all your original values so you can change back if you aren't satisfied, but I think you will be amazed.
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post #2 of 31 Old 04-30-2003, 02:54 PM - Thread Starter
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And after you have done the tweaks set your onscreen settings to :

Contrast 26
Brightness 50 or 51
Color 50
Center at midpoint
Sharpness 50
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post #3 of 31 Old 05-01-2003, 07:29 AM
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Did you do all the other tweaks. manual, efocus, geometry and etc..? and i assumed that you turn off all advanced settings.
thanks,
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post #4 of 31 Old 05-01-2003, 01:43 PM - Thread Starter
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I turned off all the advanced settings (flesh tone,black level,SVM ,etc.).I was going to do the focus adjustments and geometry adjustments, but after changing to the above settings I wont need to.Everything looks so good and sharp there is no need to touch anything else.( I wont! It looks that good!) Everything using AVIA is dead on.I used to think that the sharpness control should always be off but 50 seems to be off on this set.
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post #5 of 31 Old 05-01-2003, 02:14 PM
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I'll try it tonight and let you know tomorrow. By the way, how did you come up with these settings.
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post #6 of 31 Old 05-01-2003, 06:36 PM - Thread Starter
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Well they are posted all over AVS from Bill and various others , so I thought I would put them all in one location that is easier for all new Hitachi 20b owners to see. It was a real pain for me jumping from post to post to get the info.The color decoder settings I used in the GY-PH4,F,&G are 02 as opposed to 01.Like I tried to explain earlier,I wasn't happy with the picture when I first got the set, and thought I would need to do the focus tweaks and convergence which I did touch up alittle with manual convergence,but after I did all of the above that I listed, ,everything seemed to snap in place.I posted some different user settings in earlier posts that I thought were an improvement when I first got the set and was experimenting,but now I believe this is the total fix I was looking for. Also, note that I did not move all SVM parameters to "0".Only the ones I listed.
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post #7 of 31 Old 05-01-2003, 06:46 PM
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It isn't necessary to set VSM parameters to 0 when you turn it off in the user menu. SVM is disabled (at least as far as the parameters are concerned).

For those that like SVM, I find my personal preference is setting Phase value to 07. This eliminates the ringing associated with SVM. It will increase the dark scan speed (adding a little more distortion), but it is better than the ghosting that comes with setting the phase values lower.

I also find setting APRTR to 00 adds too much grain to some of the Hitachis I have calibrated. I have to set it back it to the original value of 01 or reduce sharpness in those cases. So keep a lookout for it when you change the value.

Bill
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post #8 of 31 Old 05-01-2003, 08:22 PM
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I have never seen a Hitachi at any store that looked even descent. I always attributed this to faulty or defective sets (hard to believe that every set I've seen is defective). If I get a chance though, I will try these settings in store. I would like to finally see a good looking Hitachi after hearing so many good things about them.

NHT speakers, Denon 4520, Panasonic 65VT50, DUAL PSA XS30SE's
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post #9 of 31 Old 05-01-2003, 11:24 PM
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I am going to track that and see how close i end up next week after my set gets calibrated. I have the 57swx and Saturday after this one is Dee-day for my puppy. I can hardly wait and have a very good one coming to do it.
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post #10 of 31 Old 05-02-2003, 12:11 AM
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FYI

COLORGO to 01 instead of 0 really helped tame the raunchy reds problem on my set. It didn't completely cure the problem I've been having but one of the things that's always made it so annoying is that the reds always seemed brighter, or more intense than any other color. This setting fixed that so at least red objects don't jump out of the screen and slap you in the face.

It's definitely worth trying for anyone that has a similar problem.

By the way, what exactly does APRTR do?

-Doug
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post #11 of 31 Old 05-02-2003, 03:23 AM - Thread Starter
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Bill mentioned above that there is no need to set all SVM settings to "0" by just turning it off in the user menu.Well, I did that and to my surprise, changing the settings in the ISF menu still had an effect.It was as if SVM was not totally disabled just from the user menu.
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post #12 of 31 Old 05-02-2003, 05:36 AM
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Bill,
You're correct on APRTR being too grainy. I ended up setting back to the default. Also, the VSM settings to 0 was too blurry for me. The only thing i made changes to was the G/B to 04, which help on the blue.
Setting COLORGO to 01 instead of 0 also help tame my red.
By the way Bill, I did efocus and manual focus for my friend 57swx over the weekend and the pictures came out very clear. We also did a major touch up on the user convergence, it was way off after the focus tweaks. We ended up skipping all the other tweaks.
I need to go back to the other forum to see your latest tweaks update. Thank you for all your help.
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post #13 of 31 Old 05-02-2003, 08:59 AM
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damitt,

APRTR is a horizontal aperture control. In simplified terms, it is another sharpness control which can induce ringing (overshoot and undershoot).

steviec,

That sounds odd. I haven't noticed that problem on any of the Hitachis I have played with, including mine. When I turn user menu SVM off, Gain or Phase parameters have no affect on the resolution patterns.

Bill
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post #14 of 31 Old 05-02-2003, 10:46 AM
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I first adjust the contrast and brightness with Avia before going into the ISF menu, assuming there are no further adjusts being made in the ISF menu that have to do with contrast brightness.

Then I adjust the color to 50 and set the tint to center, sharpness stays at 28.


I then adjust the parameters listed above:

[Hue/Tint - for Red] RY-PH-4
[Hue/Tint - for Red] RY-PH-F
[Hue/Tint - for Red] RY-PH-G
[Sat/Color - for Red] R/B-GA4
[Sat/Color - for Red] R/B-GAF
[Sat/Color - for Red] R/B-GAG
[Hue/Tint - for Green] GY-PH-4
[Hue/Tint - for Green] GY-PH-F
[Hue/Tint - for Green] GY-PH-G
[Sat/Color - for Green] G/B-GA4
[Sat/Color - for Green] G/B-GAF
[Sat/Color - for Green] G/B-GAG

using the: RGBOUT0 to select the color I am adjusting. The not so trivial adjustment is done after I exit the ISF and readjust the color to about 33. I have noticed that If I leave the color setting at 50, all the colors will be exaggerated and un-natural looking. But If I go back to the ISF with color setting of 33, all the adjustment will be off.

Bottomline, I adjust the ISF with color setting at 50 and readjust to a lower value afterwards.

Could someone identify the pro's and con's of this procedure and try to improve it.

Thanks,
Leonard.
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post #15 of 31 Old 05-02-2003, 11:20 AM
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There is nothing wrong with your procedure. Most poeple have to compensate for an inaccurate grayscale by adjusting color/tint away from the calibrated standard. You might think about paying someone to come out and calibrate your grayscale for you.

Bill
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post #16 of 31 Old 05-02-2003, 01:57 PM
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Bill,

I think it would be more beneficial for me to buy the necessary equipment and learn how to calibrate the grayscale myself. So, what equipment would you recommend and what books/procedures?

Steviec,

What are your settings for your drives and cuts?

Thanks,
Leonard.
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post #17 of 31 Old 05-02-2003, 02:03 PM
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The best package for the money is the Milori Colorfacts with the CF-6000 sensor. There aren't really any books that will help. You just need to understand the color standards for grayscale and practice.

Here is a good site with links.

http://www.efg2.com/Lab/Library/Color/Science.htm

www.colorfacts.com


Bill
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post #18 of 31 Old 05-02-2003, 06:10 PM - Thread Starter
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Hi Leonard,Here are my cuts and drives:
G-DRV-H =41
G-DRV-M =52
G-DRV-S =5B
R-DRV-S =3C
R-DRV-M =52
RDRV-S =5F
R-CUT-H =7D
R-CUT-M =7D
R-CUT-S =7D
G-CUT-H =7F
G-CUT-M =7F
G-CUT-S =7F
B-Cut-H =7F
B-Cut-M =7F
B-Cut-S =7F
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post #19 of 31 Old 05-04-2003, 01:12 AM
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Bill,

Do you do calibrations on Hitachi sets in Denver, or can you recommend someone for a 57XWX?

Thanks in advance,
JP
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post #20 of 31 Old 05-04-2003, 08:00 AM
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Yes, I do calibrations in Denver. I am not a traveler and do most of my calibrations in Denver Metro Area. I do have one in San Jose next week and one in South Carolina the following week. I am there for other reasons, but people wanted to know if I could stop by.

But, if you need a calibration, let me know. I am fairly cheap.

Bill
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post #21 of 31 Old 05-07-2003, 09:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Mfusick
RGBOUT0
SUB-BRT
G-DRV-H
G-DRV-M
G-DRV-S
R-DRV-H
R-DRV-M
R-DRV-S
R-CUT-H
R-CUT-M
R-CUT-S
G-CUT-H
G-CUT-M
G-CUT-S
B-CUT-H
B-CUT-M
B-CUT-S
SUBCNT0
COLOR-4
COLOR-F
COLOR-G
TINT-4
TINT-F
TINT-G
SHARP-4
SHARP-A
SHARP-B
SHARP-9
SHARP-E
RY-PH-4
RY-PH-F
RY-PH-G
R/B-GA4
R/B-GAF
R/B-GAG
GY-PH-4
GY-PH-F
GY-PH-G
G/B-GA4
G/B-GAF
G/B-GAG
DC-PNT0
DC-RET0
DC-LMT0
DABLPN0
DABLGA0
H-POSI
H-POSIH
H-POSID
APRTR-4
APRTR-A
APRTR-C
APRTR-E
CLT-4
CLT-A
CLT-C
CLT-E
SRT-TR4
SRT-TRA
SRT-TRC
SRT-TRE
SRT-FQ4
SRT-FQA
SRT-FQC
SRT-FQE
VSM-PH4
VSM-PHA
VSM-PHC
VSM-PHE
VSMGA4
VSMGAA
VSMGAC
VSMGAE
VSMGAM4
VSMGAMA
VSMGAMC
VSMGAME
CDE-4
CDE-A
CDE-C
CDE-E
CLPPHS0
HBPPH10
HBPPH20
DCUBRT0
DCUCNT0
OSDACL0
OSDBRT0
OSDCNT0
DCRRSW0
COLORG0
YCGA-0
BSP-0
APL/BS0
BLC-0
BDL-0
BS-ARE0
SRTGA-0
WPL-LE0
ABL-PN0
ABL-GA0
TYNCG10
DYNCG20
STATG10
STATG20
YOUTG-0
Y-DTL-0
WP-PNT0
WP-GA-0
HI-VRT0
WPS-0
BLS-0
G-STR-0
BSTRG-0
BSTRP-0
BSCHR10
BSCHR20
SCT-SW0
BBE-LO
BBE-HI
AGC
SURR
OSD-HP
OSD-VP
OSDCL12
OSDCL3
SMPLING
POLLING
START
TIMEOUT
STATUS
WAIT
REPEAT
HFRQ-N
SUBBRTH
M-CONT-H
M-CLR-H
S-CONT-H
S-CLR-H
INPUT1
INPUT2
SYNCDET
F-STD
H-STD
NOISE
DYGA
DCGA
VAPGA
VAPIN
YHCOR
HSYNC-M
VSYNC-M
CSYNC-M
HSYNC-S
VSYNC-S
CSYNC-S
M-CONT1
M-CONT3
M-CONTD
M-COR-1
M-COR-3
M-COR-D
MTINT-1
MTINT-3
MTINT-D
MTOFF00
MTOFQ-0
S-CONT2
S-CONT3
S-CONTD
S-CLR-2
S-CLR-3
S-CLR-D
STINT-2
STINT-3
STINT-D
STOFF00
STOFQ-0
Y-DL1-4
Y-DL1-D
Y-DL2-0
YBLACK4
YBLACKD
BBLACK4
BBLACKD
RBLACK4
RBLACKD
AFCRAN4
AFCRAND
F-DET4
HSEPL-4
HSEPL-5
HSEPL-6
HSEPL-C
VSEPL-4
VSEPL-5
VSEPL-6
VSEPL-C
DSEPL-A
DSEPL-C
AFCMD-L
AFCMD-3
AFCMD-D
VMODE-4
VMODE-5
48ISEP4
BANDW-4
BANDW-5
HDPOSI4
HDPOSI5
HDPOSI6
HDPOSI7
HDPOSIK
Wouldn't it be great if you could just copy and paste all that into the service menu?

-Doug
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post #22 of 31 Old 05-24-2003, 03:09 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally posted by Dammit!
Wouldn't it be great if you could just copy and paste all that into the service menu?

:D :D :D :D
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post #23 of 31 Old 05-24-2003, 05:14 PM
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Nice list of Hitachi settings. Now all you need are the VALUES. :D
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post #24 of 31 Old 05-24-2003, 08:30 PM
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Just doing a little tweaking to my new 65twx20b....according to the Gamma screen on the Sound & Vision Home Theatre Tune Up disk, my Gamma is WAY off. Does anyone know if there is a way to correct this in the Service Menu?

Thanks, John

PS - Also having trouble finding the thread with the Electronic Focus instructions...anyone have a link?
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post #25 of 31 Old 05-25-2003, 01:59 AM
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I don't know what to tell you about your gamma problem, but my swx20b just flipped out on me tonight while watching tv. The screen kind of flickered and then the picture went bad. It still works but what used to be an awesome picture is now all pink/reddish. I think it has something to do with the tint and color, I dunno. But there's nothing I can do (short of entering the service menu) to fix it. It did this once before briefly a couple of weeks ago, but I was able to get it to snap back by moving the tint all the down and then up. This time that's not fixing it however. If it doesn't correct itself in another day or two I'm going to have to get the service guy out here again because there's absolutely nothing I can do to fix it.

I was able to get the best picture using these values in the service menu:

RY-PH-4, F & G = 02
R/B-GA4, F & G = 03
GY-PH-4, F & G = 02
G/B-GA4, F & G = 04
APRTR-4, A, C & E = 0 (or 01 if it's still too grainy)
VSM-PH4, A C & E = 0
VSMGA-4, A C & E = 0
COLORGO = 0 (or 01 to help with reds)
SRTGA = 0
G-STR-0 = 0

My regular tv color settings with the above settings were:

Contrast = 68
Brightness = 31
Color = 45
Sharpness = 46
Tint = right in the middle

Like I said, I was getting an awesome picture with these settings on my 51SWX20B, up until tonight. Good luck.


-Matt
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post #26 of 31 Old 05-26-2003, 08:42 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally posted by steviec
Well they are posted all over AVS from Bill and various others , so I thought I would put them all in one location that is easier for all new Hitachi 20b owners to see. It was a real pain for me jumping from post to post to get the info.The color decoder settings I used in the GY-PH4,F,&G are 02 as opposed to 01.Like I tried to explain earlier,I wasn't happy with the picture when I first got the set, and thought I would need to do the focus tweaks and convergence which I did touch up alittle with manual convergence,but after I did all of the above that I listed, ,everything seemed to snap in place.I posted some different user settings in earlier posts that I thought were an improvement when I first got the set and was experimenting,but now I believe this is the total fix I was looking for. Also, note that I did not move all SVM parameters to "0".Only the ones I listed.
I had up until now tried various settings within the ISF menu of my 57TWX20B with mixed results. However I went through the exercize of writing down all my old settings and then implementing the ones noted in this thread including the cuts and drives. I then also set contrast,brightness, tint, color and sharpness as you suggested and ala kazam the green push noted in dark scenes has all but disappeared. I still need to do more evaluation on whether to adjust the red down a bit more but it seems in most cases acceptable. I used "Planet of the Apes" as my test DVD as it used to exhibit an overall ghostly green tint and to my pleasure the green tint is gone and the overall color of the film seems greatly improved. I wont argue with a formula that really works. So thanks for posting this easy to follow apparently fool proof modus operandi.
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post #27 of 31 Old 05-26-2003, 11:23 AM
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To the 20B experts out there. For some reason, my 57 SWX20B switched all of my video settings from Standard to High for the different picture settings. Also, I used to have my DVD player turn on the TV when it was turned on. I jsut got a new DVD player and the TV turns on for a second, then shuts down. I am not sure if these two things are related or not. I went back through and changed the settings to standard and luckily nothing in the ISF menu changed (I wrote all the values down after ISF Calibration).

Any Help?

Dave

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post #28 of 31 Old 05-28-2003, 07:30 AM
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As I am reading this forum I see that 2 other folks (MAttwicks & Dave Vaughn) are experiencing the exact problems my 51uwx20b has. While watching TV the screen filled with a red tint, which later on change to red tint bars. This went on for about a week. Called in service and the service guy did not know for sure what the problem was, but said he remember this problem previously and needed to research it. Well part are in order for replacements. In the meantime a week later the set fixed itself. That lasted for about a day and a half. Now it turns itself off after about 5 - 10 seconds. I also have the TV set to turn itself on when the DVD player is turned on.

Needless to say I am still waiting on parts and not sure what the problem is. Service is being provided by CC. The TV is only about 7 months old.

Mattwicks and Dave vaugh, did your problems ever get resolved?

Joe
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post #29 of 31 Old 05-28-2003, 08:20 AM
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Joe,
My problem is a much different than yours. My set only turns on for a second now when the DVD player is turned on, then turns off in an instant. I just disabled that setting in the user menu and there isn't an issue now (although the wife now complains that there are "too many steps" to put on a DVD for the kids!). My other issue is that the color settings all went from standard to high without me changing them, and SVM and the Black Expansion (I think that is the setting) were all turned on. I never changed any of these settings. Very weird. I am not sure I want a service tech messing around with the set just yet because I don't want to have my grayscale messed up by them.

Dave

David Vaughn Blu-ray Reviewer / Technical Writer Sound & Vision Magazine (Print & Online)
My Atmos Renovation Part 1 http://www.soundandvision.com/conten...odyssey-part-1
My Atmos Renovation Part 2 http://www.soundandvision.com/conten...odyssey-part-2
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post #30 of 31 Old 05-29-2003, 12:22 AM
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Any links to instructions as to how I get to the service menu to make the changes?
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