2004 Mitsubishi CRT Tweaks/Q&A thread - Page 16 - AVS Forum
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post #451 of 513 Old 05-03-2008, 05:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kchilaka View Post

I recently purchased a WS73713 from a gentleman about a mile from my house. I went and checked the TV out and it was working fine at his place. I then had the TV moved from his house to my house .. The move was the usual struggle as the tv weighs over 300 lbs.. But no sharp bumps or drops.. Now after I got it into my house and I plug it in, the TV refuses to turn on.. Just a blinking green light at the power button.. I wonder if the move dislodged something in the TV, like a connection or something.. Has anyone had that happen ? Any known fixes or places to look? Any help would be appreciated...
thanks
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Just hit the sleep button on the remote when the green light is flashing, then you should be able to turn on the TV.

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"If trees could scream, would we be so cavalier about cutting them down? We might, if they screamed all the time, for no good reason."
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post #452 of 513 Old 05-05-2008, 07:15 AM
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Sleep button? You mean the power button? There is no "sleep" button on my remote.. I pressed the power button but all I got was the blinking light.. non stop... it never goes out...
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post #453 of 513 Old 05-05-2008, 07:43 AM
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Some times mine "resets its self". I turn it on and it blinks for what seems like forever (probably a minute or two). It always came on and was never a serious problem for me. It's has done this much less frequently (almost never) since I started using the cable providers tune instead of the built in tuner. I seem to recall getting a scare once when it wouldn't come on. I think I unplugged it for a few minutes and tried again and fortunately it's been fine for years. Certainly worth a try if you haven't already.
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post #454 of 513 Old 05-05-2008, 10:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kchilaka View Post

Sleep button? You mean the power button? There is no "sleep" button on my remote.. I pressed the power button but all I got was the blinking light.. non stop... it never goes out...

It is most likely a problem with the DM PCB........ There is a Service Tip "VS-74 5", for a possible issue with bad capacitors on the DM PCB. A local Mits Service Tech should have the details.

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post #455 of 513 Old 05-06-2008, 12:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kchilaka View Post

Sleep button? You mean the power button? There is no "sleep" button on my remote.. I pressed the power button but all I got was the blinking light.. non stop... it never goes out...

So, you don't have the original remote?

Louie

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post #456 of 513 Old 05-07-2008, 07:27 AM
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my bad.. lol... i do have the original remote but never saw that button
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post #457 of 513 Old 05-07-2008, 07:30 AM
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I finally gave in and got a tech to take a look at the TV.. he looked around inside the tv at the various boards with a flashlight.. trying to see if the move had somehow dislodged anything or broken anything.. after a while, he gave up and then took out the whole chassis of the TV .. He is working on the thing at his shop now ..

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Originally Posted by kchilaka View Post

my bad.. lol... i do have the original remote but never saw that button

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post #458 of 513 Old 05-07-2008, 10:24 AM
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Here is a link to fix yourself if they come back with a crazy price.
http://www.hdtvoice.com/voice/showthread.php?t=20219
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post #459 of 513 Old 05-07-2008, 03:17 PM
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Yeah. I saw that a while ago..In fact I forwarded that link to my tech to let him know that other people had fixed it themselves (if the problem is the DM in this case..)..
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post #460 of 513 Old 05-19-2008, 11:00 AM
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YUp. It ended up being the capacitors on the DM board.. I paid a local tech $150 to fix the caps and now everything is fine.. Boots up fine.. Picture quality is fine.. Now to calibrate the set properly ......
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post #461 of 513 Old 05-19-2008, 11:08 AM
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Glad you got it worked out. $150 seems very reasonable to me. Strange that the capacitors blew at the same time as the move. Is there a reason for that?

Are you going to have a Pro calibrate for you?

Frank
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post #462 of 513 Old 05-19-2008, 08:38 PM
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I agree that it was weird but the Tech had what seems like a plausible explanation.. He said that the previous owner probably had the set plugged in for a long time and the capacitors never got discharged.. Also having been plugged in for a long time the processor never needed to reboot...oh well..
About the pro calibration, i doubt I can afford something like that.. I am very happy with the picture the way it is. Perhaps I will get the avia or DVE disc and do a user level calibration.. I will get some screenshots on here ...
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post #463 of 513 Old 05-20-2008, 11:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kchilaka View Post

I agree that it was weird but the Tech had what seems like a plausible explanation.. He said that the previous owner probably had the set plugged in for a long time and the capacitors never got discharged.. Also having been plugged in for a long time the processor never needed to reboot...oh well..

Mine has never been un-plugged (or it has been plugged in for about 5 years).
So then once I unplug it I face the risk of the capacitors blowing? What about when power goes out? Same risk?
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post #464 of 513 Old 05-22-2008, 01:18 PM
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Cucuy, the very same thought went though my head when I read that.
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post #465 of 513 Old 05-22-2008, 02:29 PM
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Same here, but I've had a few power outages in the last few years so I think I'm in good shape.
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post #466 of 513 Old 05-23-2008, 12:52 PM
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So..I have a 55513. It's about 4 years old - never really cared to tweak it except the stuff in the user menu.

Yesterday, I went into the service menu for the first time and adjusted the overscan settings (i used ESPNNEWS HD as the reference). I still have no idea how to do the convergence stuff, or what exactly needs to be done.

Also, from reading this thread, it sounds like my model (55513, integrated tuner) has SVM/VSM turned on all the time?

Donnie mentioned something about unplugging a connector to disable the circuit - can someone give me instructions on what to take apart and what connector needs to be unplugged?

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...&postcount=332

Thanks.
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post #467 of 513 Old 06-24-2008, 04:28 PM
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Never experienced Black Crush on my 65813, which was professionally calibrated a few years ago and I have kept up with my amateur abilities and Joe Kane DVDs, until I hooked up my PS3 via DVI and watched a few films..

Narnia and Cloverfield were almost ruined by the horrible black crush, but I'm not sure it isn't those specific movies because I've never seen this when working with the calibration DVDs...

Is this a result of using the DVI input rather than the component input?

thoughts and advice are appreciated.
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post #468 of 513 Old 06-24-2008, 05:28 PM
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I have same TV, using component. It is also calibrated. I have never experienced that with mine. I watched both of those movies and never noticed anything.
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post #469 of 513 Old 06-25-2008, 09:48 AM
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I believe each input of the TV is calibrated. So it's very possible switching over the the DVI input contributed largely to the problem.
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post #470 of 513 Old 06-25-2008, 10:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by petercw2 View Post

Never experienced Black Crush on my 65813, which was professionally calibrated a few years ago and I have kept up with my amateur abilities and Joe Kane DVDs, until I hooked up my PS3 via DVI and watched a few films..

Narnia and Cloverfield were almost ruined by the horrible black crush, but I'm not sure it isn't those specific movies because I've never seen this when working with the calibration DVDs...

Is this a result of using the DVI input rather than the component input?

thoughts and advice are appreciated.

You probably have the RGB output setting on the PS3 set to full. Try changing the Playstation 3 setting to RGB limited. Basically as I understand it and read about it here the Mits DVI input is expecting RGB values to be 16-235 (studio/video color space) but you are giving it 0-255 (PC color space) which are meant to be for computer monitors.
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post #471 of 513 Old 07-06-2008, 01:57 AM
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Hey guys, my family has a Mitsu WS-55313 it has been treating us well. I have recently saved up my money and have gotten a PS3. Now, because the TV only supports 1080i and 480p/i that means for my High Definition needs I have to put it on 1080i for the games.

After buying Metal Gear Solid 4 for the PS3 (Amazing game by the way..) I have noticed during the menu's the white text seems to be "bleeding" a little bit of red which is very annoying. I have also noticed that the XMB text seems to be a little "soft" almost as if it was out of focus.

I am only a High School student, and we got this TV a looong time ago (About 3 years ago) so its doubtful that I would be able to convince my parents to get a technician over here to do some calibrating.. and currently I don't have any money for the AVIA Setup disk.

I really want to fix all of these problems that I have mentioned though... is there anything I can do? I am trying to see if I can get ahold of a AVIA disk from a friend maybe who might have it.. but in the mean time, is it possible for me to be able to calibrate the TV on my own and get it looking pretty good?
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post #472 of 513 Old 07-06-2008, 11:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bennyboy View Post

I really want to fix all of these problems that I have mentioned though... is there anything I can do?

The simplest step is to do an advanced convergence. It's likely that the red bleed over in the white lettering your seeing is due to the convergence coming off a little. This is fairly simple to do and requires no advanced tools for the convergence.

Try the convergence and it may fix your main problem now. DVE or Avia can help clean up the color, contrast, etc. and may still be worth doing, but an advanced convergence is likely your best bet IMO and an easy starting point.

PS3 ID: Mav_26_
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post #473 of 513 Old 07-07-2008, 01:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bennyboy View Post

I am trying to see if I can get ahold of a AVIA disk from a friend maybe who might have it.. but in the mean time, is it possible for me to be able to calibrate the TV on my own and get it looking pretty good?

Additionally, you can try getting one from Netflix if your family (or firends) subs to it. The only downside may be that you may not get the color filters required to do some color settings. Your best bet is a friend who has the disk and the color filters
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post #474 of 513 Old 07-07-2008, 03:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bennyboy View Post

I am only a High School student, and we got this TV a looong time ago (About 3 years ago) so its doubtful that I would be able to convince my parents to get a technician over here to do some calibrating.. and currently I don't have any money for the AVIA Setup disk.

I really want to fix all of these problems that I have mentioned though... is there anything I can do? I am trying to see if I can get ahold of a AVIA disk from a friend maybe who might have it.. but in the mean time, is it possible for me to be able to calibrate the TV on my own and get it looking pretty good?

The Avia disk is not all that expensive and can be used again and again. I found two on Amazon for $25.79.

What really caught my eye was your comment about the age of this set. For this TV, it is a baby. Plus, using Aiva (or DVE) is not the same as a full calibration. I used Avia and DVE in the beginning just to get the PQ better until the calibrator I wanted to do it was on tour in my area. I have the 65813 and calibrated. I am still blown away by the PQ and have not seen anything in the stores that comes close, especially in the black area.

You might also want to check out this thread:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...95922&page=121

Good Luck. Joe
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post #475 of 513 Old 07-12-2008, 08:56 AM
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Thanks, I did some tweaking and it looks better (or so I think it does). I will probably buy a AVIA disk.
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post #476 of 513 Old 07-06-2009, 12:20 PM
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This thread looks a bit dead but worth a try...

I have a Mits 65712. I am using a HDFury2 to convert the RGBHV (1080i) to HDMI. Everything works very well and the picture is great, however whenever I power up the set I get a message telling me that the power was off, or there may be a problem with my RGB or component connection. Press any button on the remote and the message goes away. Thoughts?
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post #477 of 513 Old 07-07-2009, 07:15 AM
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dlodi,

I have a 65813 and I seem to recall an option somewhere in the menu system regarding power on. I think it tells the set whether to power off completely or just go into standby when it is turned off. Probably not a solution but worth a look.

Thinking about it a little more: it sounds like the HDFury2 is not providing a signal when the set powers up. Maybe changing your power up sequence or adding a delay prior to turning on the Mits.

That's all I got but the thread still lives!

Frank
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post #478 of 513 Old 01-12-2010, 04:51 PM
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Hi JeepLover2: I was scanning the net for a replacement fan for my WS-65815 when I found your post. Were you ever able to replace your fan with something better? thanks - TR
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post #479 of 513 Old 01-19-2010, 03:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trocky View Post

Hi JeepLover2: I was scanning the net for a replacement fan for my WS-65815 when I found your post. Were you ever able to replace your fan with something better? thanks - TR

I'm also searching for information about replacing the noisy fan on my WS-65815. Any suggestions out there on what fan to use, and tips on the best way to replace it?
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post #480 of 513 Old 02-06-2010, 05:17 AM
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Does anybody know of any firmware updates for this tv that I can find on the internet?

Mitsubishi sent me a CompactFlash card one time with a firmware update on it. Unfortunately I lost that data in a Hard drive DBAN accident.

Obviously this tv is out of warranty but mine is still going quite strong with a yearly tuning by lionav (ISF calibration).
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