2004 Mitsubishi CRT Tweaks/Q&A thread - Page 4 - AVS Forum
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post #91 of 513 Old 01-20-2004, 12:02 PM
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Thx Marc, but you wouldn't believe my luck. I went home for lunch to work on my calibrations.

I was going to take the SVideo from Input 1 (where I have my E*508) and connect it to my DVD player. I was then gonna calibrate that input for SD by placing my DVD player on non-progressive.

But when I went to plug my S-Video cable in, it wouldn't go into my DVD player. I got behind my equipment and checked my cable and pins, they ended up getting bent, so after I carefully straightened them, I tried again, still would not go in. I got my flash light to get a close look and imagine my surprise when I noticed that the S-Video output connection was screwed up. The pin holes were smaller and the face looked all scratched.

I took a small push pin to see if there was anything blocking the pin holes and it seems that the holes are not deep enough, nor wide enough for the Cable.

I called Ultimate and I have to wait until next monday to get a replacement unit.

Then when I went to connect the S-Video back to my 508, I noticed that the one of the pins broke off.

Guess I have to wait until next Monday to finish my calibrations and now I have to by a new S-Video cable

And yes I was one that purchased the more expensive Monster Cables, only 3 weeks old. Time to get some Pro Series AR cables

BTW Marc what is your impression of the Denon DVD 2200? Wondering if I should just ask them to send me a 2900.
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post #92 of 513 Old 01-20-2004, 03:29 PM - Thread Starter
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I was just about to recommend AR Pro Series. These are my favorite bargain interconnects.

I have not personally evaluated a 2200. I have used the 2900 and I own a 3800. The 2900 is definitely better than the 2200 (especially for audiophiles), but whether you can justify the $$$ premium is up to you. The beauty of these Denon players is the quickest layer change in the business (most of the time unnoticeable).
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post #93 of 513 Old 01-20-2004, 05:07 PM
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Marc Money is not the issue. I just spent about 10k on the system I have in the L/R, the 2200 is in that L/R But I tell you, if i had gone with AR Pro II series from the start, I would have saved hundreds on my cabling and the 10 K would have probably included the 2900.

From all of the reviews I read, the 2900 was only better from an Music audio perspective. But the truth is that I would be watching movies 90 percent of the time on the DVD player. In fact I own only 1 DVD A and 1 SACD
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post #94 of 513 Old 01-22-2004, 03:36 PM - Thread Starter
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Denon 3800 has the best PQ...you just have to make sure you get one with the latest upgrades. You can always send it for free upgrade if it doesn't. I got lucky and got a refurb with all the upgrades (to correct Y/C error and laser/transport).
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post #95 of 513 Old 01-27-2004, 05:57 PM
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I bought a Mits 48413 a week ago and I'm waiting for my Avia dvd to arrive. In the mean time have have read this thread and a lot of others to educate me about calibrations and settings. Now I got some questions;

1) What is over scanning and how do you detect if you have it? If you have it, what is the easiest way to eliminate it?

2) When I'm playing a dvd (from a Panasonic RV-30, no progressive) I only get 480i on the TV. (I hooked up the dvdpalyer with component cables.) Is this normal? What should I do to get 1080i dvd?

3) I read earlier that I should deselect the enhanced black setting on the TV. For all inputs or only dvd?

4) Any other automatic improvements that I should deselect? Personally I think the noise filter makes the picture look worse. What do you think.

5) Last. What are some good basic settings in perfect color for my model? right now they seem a bit off on automatic.

Thanks in advance.

// Stefan
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post #96 of 513 Old 01-27-2004, 07:12 PM
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I bought a Mits 48413 a week ago and I'm waiting for my Avia dvd to arrive. In the mean time have have read this thread and a lot of others to educate me about calibrations and settings. Now I got some questions;

1) What is over scanning and how do you detect if you have it? If you have it, what is the easiest way to eliminate it?

2) When I'm playing a dvd (from a Panasonic RV-30, no progressive) I only get 480i on the TV. (I hooked up the dvdpalyer with component cables.) Is this normal? What should I do to get 1080i dvd?

3) I read earlier that I should deselect the enhanced black setting on the TV. For all inputs or only dvd?

4) Any other automatic improvements that I should deselect? Personally I think the noise filter makes the picture look worse. What do you think.

5) Last. What are some good basic settings in perfect color for my model? right now they seem a bit off on automatic.

Thanks in advance.

// Stefan
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post #97 of 513 Old 01-27-2004, 08:25 PM
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Quote:


Originally posted by taz291819
I used a butterfly-knife, but was very careful.

A plastic tool similar to a butterknife is best.

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post #98 of 513 Old 01-27-2004, 08:28 PM
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Quote:


Originally posted by MyRookieTheatre
And yes I was one that purchased the more expensive Monster Cables, only 3 weeks old. Time to get some Pro Series AR cables

I had similar experience with a MC digital coax audio cable. The outer ring collapsed and the center prong split in two.

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post #99 of 513 Old 01-29-2004, 07:44 AM
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Marc

I was considering a Denon 3800 when I bought my 2200, but while reading reviews, I kept seeing how the 3800 was having issues. Besides the Y/C delay, faulty laser pick up and the chroma bug in some early models, I kept reading post were people were stating that they were having problems while playing a movie. Movie would stop playing, 3800 would power off, etc.

So I then decided to try between the 2200 and 2900. In doing my research, I found that the PQ on both were identical. Where the 2900 surpassed the 2200 was on the audio side, and a few more features.

as I mentioned before, I will use my 2200 for movies 90% of the time. I do have a setup in my family room that has my audio components.

I would imagine that I will hold off until the new 1080i DVD players are out and at a reasonable cost
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post #100 of 513 Old 01-29-2004, 08:24 AM - Thread Starter
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I have been reading about folks having 3800 problems...hopefully I remain problem free (knock on wood).

I have yet to see a scaling DVD player with any display best native 480p on a Mits (from a DVD player with great 480p output of course).

1080i being interlaced makes it not a great choice for displaying DVDs (even though it looks great for D-Theater). If you use a scaling DVD player with a Mits...540p is the best choice. I prefer native 480p myself (my TV does not have DVI so my in home testing has been with HTPC).
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post #101 of 513 Old 01-29-2004, 08:36 AM
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1080i (actually 1776x1000i) looks great using TheaterTek, but I guess YMMV.

Currently testing 3D with Sammy DLP, shutter glasses, and HTPC
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post #102 of 513 Old 01-29-2004, 08:45 AM
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I have a 65809 and using my HTPC to show DVD's scaled to 1080i on the DTV input of the Mits looks much better than my STB at 480p. I use MyHD on the HTPC to watch dvd's, and its connected using RGBHV. One extra bonuns is MyHD has color controls and I can adjust the red to correct for Red Push.

I think if you try the Bravo or HTPC options to scale dvd to 1080i outside of the TV, I think you'll be impressed.
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post #103 of 513 Old 01-29-2004, 08:54 AM - Thread Starter
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Guys...what 480p DVD player are you comparing these scaling setups
to? I'm not saying they aren't good. I'm just saying the best 480p is better than scaled on on native 480p displays.
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post #104 of 513 Old 01-29-2004, 11:02 AM
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I have a pretty cheap Philips Progressive scan set-top (dvd-825) that I tried out. I've also compared 480p and 1080i via htpc and scaling to 1080i was better, IMO. Heck, a couple dvds, X2 for instance, almost rivaled HBO-HD and SHO-HD. Though, my set has NOT been ISF calibrated yet, have to wait until Spring for the tour to come through town.

Currently testing 3D with Sammy DLP, shutter glasses, and HTPC
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post #105 of 513 Old 01-31-2004, 10:30 AM
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Hello everyone, I've been following the faq's on the mits and there seems to be some helpful tips. Maybe someone can help me and my 55813. Here's my picture problem. I should add that the cheap free cables are still hooked up. I did buy some AQ cables for the gear, but I don't think this is a cable problem. I'm getting lite gray vertical bars on the left side of the screen and they are noticable on dark images. When I flip the channels and the screen go's black they are there too. I have set my contrast to 18 and the brightness to 30 and visaversa. Color is at 34 and the sharpness is set to 31 still. I have the avia and sound and vision disc's but have not really gone in depth with them yet. I also have not really messed around with the perfect color menu's, as I am kinda of afraid of screwing the red and blues up until I try avia. Does anyone understand what bars I am explaining, are they overscan or possible burn in. I have not had anything on the tv to burn in and set the contrast and brightness low early on in the power up. I even shy away from watching HD in 4:3. Also I too notice some graininess in dark moving shots. The problem appears to be on the darks. I do plan on having the set pro.callibrated, but am wondering if this can be fixed by myself in the meantime. Hoping this is fixable and not the sett's nature, I do realize every display type has it's faults, hope this is not the case. Any help would be great!

I do the math in my head because it's faster, then I use a calculator to check my work!
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post #106 of 513 Old 02-01-2004, 04:17 PM
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As a newbie owner of a 48413, I'd like to start improving the color. All the faces are bright red, and trying to fix it with color and tint controls ends up with washed out, bland color.

I've begun using the DVE disk, but I run into this problem:

In the Color Balance menu, with Auto Color correction off, Perfectcolor seems to do nothing. If I take red all the way to the left or to the right, for example, the red bar changes color, but there is absolutely no change in the picture. With red and magenta all the way to the left, and blue and green all the way to the right, there is still no change in the picture as I check different channels, HD and STD.

There must be something simple that I am missing. What is it, please?

Tom
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post #107 of 513 Old 02-02-2004, 11:11 AM
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Stefan7219, you asked about getting 1080i on your mits 48413 using a
dvd. You have to have a STB to recieve HD. If you have a Samsung 351
or 165 you can use s-video from the DVD to the STB and then use AV1
or AV2 for the DVD and you will get 1080i. I use that for my DVD and
DISH 501, GREAT PICTURE on both. I forgot to say you need to use the DVI
connection.

JPR
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post #108 of 513 Old 02-03-2004, 12:28 PM - Thread Starter
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Timmy,

Once you properly set contrast and brightess following the DVE or AVIA instrucations, there should be no more noisy blacks. If you still have it, you may have a defective set.
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post #109 of 513 Old 02-03-2004, 01:36 PM
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Thanks for the reply Marc, from following the threads it appears you have alot of knowledge with the rear projections. My installer is finishing the cables and final touches tonite. While I have him here I am going to see if he can help with the setup discs and see what he might think. I basically have the brightness and contrast set to where most have been suggesting in these threads. Every room is different depending on light, however the lite gray bars are most noticable when the room is dark and dim, as would be the case for movie viewing. We will try tweaking tonite and hopefully have some luck. Now that I know the bars are there it bothers me, and given the set itself should not happen. One more question Marc, if the setup discs don't help would pro calibration be the next step or should I just call my salesman and explain my problem?

I do the math in my head because it's faster, then I use a calculator to check my work!
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post #110 of 513 Old 02-03-2004, 02:43 PM - Thread Starter
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call your salesman if the setup discs don't help.
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post #111 of 513 Old 02-04-2004, 09:42 PM
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So its been quite some time since ive done any tweaking on the 48413, tonite I decided it was time to step it up.

I'll give the usual DO NOT TRY THIS AT HOME disclaimer. You will be digging around in the internals of your set when doing this and could easily fry the whole thing. I'm either brave or stupid, but probably mostly lucky.

The foxus on the sides of my picture has always been a bit weak and an electrostatic focus didnt improve things really. So I got up the balls to do a manual focus tonite. The procedure is a bit challenging and I REALLY had to be careful. Made sure to use gloves and ensured a clean environment.

The results...

Pretty wow honestly! It really improved the noticibly blurred edges and overall focus is now VERY nice! This in conjunction with a run through VE again and some time on convergence has resulted in the best picture yet!

I should have a pro come in and do a complete calibration of the set soon, but I just wanted to see what I could do on my own first.

Enjoy your sets everyone!
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post #112 of 513 Old 02-05-2004, 09:26 AM
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Right now I have my pc connected to my new 55413 via DVI and i am getting some major overscan around 5-10%. What is te best way to adjest this? and if i adjest this is it going to mess up all of my other inputs?

Samsung D7000 65"
Onkyo 905
BIH F12
6x Energy RC-10
WMC ceton4 DVR/Media PC
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post #113 of 513 Old 02-06-2004, 12:57 PM - Thread Starter
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Jake,

On your manual focus. Were you able to access the lenses without removing the screen. Any details you can provide will be greatly appreciated.

Focus is definitely one of the most important tweaks in terms of improving PQ.

---spelling corrected
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post #114 of 513 Old 02-06-2004, 01:07 PM
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Quote:


Originally posted by Marc Alexander
Jake,

On you manual focus. Where you able to access the lenses without removing the screen. Any details you can provide will be greatly appreciated.

Focus is definitely one of the most important tweaks in terms of improving PQ.

No, on the 48413, the only way to get to the focus is from the back or through the screen, I have done it from the back with my wifes help, but not very well, and I want to go at it again, from the front, I think the screen can be disconnected, and just proped up 6-8 inches to reach in to get to the adjustment. also thier is a wing nut, not tape on the lens, so no need to worry about putting tape back on. and it is touchy, no need to move it very far, and go back and fourth with that and the electrostatic , to get it right.

I agree, focus make a big differance.
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post #115 of 513 Old 02-06-2004, 01:11 PM - Thread Starter
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In the past...you could access the 46" from the back. But the 55 and 65" did not have rear access. I will check a 55" soon and report back to everyone.
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post #116 of 513 Old 02-06-2004, 04:50 PM
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Marc

Thanks for the great resource.

I am trying to adjust my overscan I would like to get it as close to 0 as possible.
What is the best you have ever seen on a ws55711?

When I try to adjust the vertical overscan I see black on the top and bottom but can still not see the top of the picture. Is this just a limitation of the set or am I adjusting the wrong thing? I do planed to have my TV ISF'ed this summer after I move, but it would be good to know what to expect.

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post #117 of 513 Old 02-06-2004, 08:11 PM
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Hi everyone,
I have a question about ws-48313. It does not seem to have a user menu option to set SVM off. (as oppose to 48413)
Would i still be able to set it off through service menu as it was recommended in Mits SVM tweak section?
Thanks.
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post #118 of 513 Old 02-06-2004, 08:51 PM
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Hello Marc it appears the setup discs have not worked too well for my problems with the 55813. Contrast is set at 28 and brightness is at 17. I have also done color and perfect color, also blue and red convergence. Reds are still somewhat high no matter where or what settings I tweak. The lite gray vertical bars are still showing as well on the left side of the display, I count 4 of them. The bars themselves appear to be convergence bars of some sort. My installer, who also sells the mits diamond series seems to think it's a bad set as do I. I've put in a call to my salesman, probably a visit from a technician before they take it back. Hopefully it can be fixed or swapped out for another 55813, I still love the set. I'll keep you posted.

I do the math in my head because it's faster, then I use a calculator to check my work!
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post #119 of 513 Old 02-08-2004, 07:20 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:


Originally posted by bdraw
What is the best you have ever seen on a ws55711?

2-3% is probably the best possible but involves zeroing out the fine convergence grid and doing geometry from scratch.

3.5-4% is achievable simply from adjusting overscan and touching up geometry and convergence.

The lower the overscan the more difficult it is to converge the corners.
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post #120 of 513 Old 02-08-2004, 05:56 PM
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Great thread folks...keep it going.

I have a Mits wt-42313, 3 weeks old, and just started Cox cable HD service today(in Phoenix). The family and I think our SD and HD pictures looks pretty darn good(but what do elderly eyes know, LOL). Does anyone have an opinion as to seeing a TRUE difference in PQ if we had an ISF calibration? I would hate to spend say, $700, and truly not be able to see a vast/obvious difference.

I appreciate any and all opinions...thanks

George
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