Quote:Originally Posted by microbus63
I have an Elite Pro 510HD TV set. Some months ago she turned off while I was watching a show, the set had been on for a couple hours. She made a pop noise when the TV went off, I turned the set back on via the main power switch, and all was good. several weeks later it did it again, i tuned it back on, then five minutes later it happened again. twice more and she didn't turn on again then a few days later i tried again and she worked, but after a while off again,
when the TV pops and goes off the green power light turns to red, I must cycle the main power button.
recenlty she shut off.I tired to restart and gave up. (ie I gave up with immediatly trying to restart) that was a week ago.
That is when i looked up this AVS forum. I have read about the power supply cold joints. I may have this problem.
What would be the next course of action?
should try to resart her one more time, but make sure that if she does start, to make sure i shut her down within 15 seconds to make sure no further forced shutdowns occur. If i am able start her up, then i assume if have the power supply board re-soldered she will work ok again? Is this a good assumption. (I dont want to put time and money into a repaired power supply board, just to find some other pricey parts are blown.
Would a brief test of turning her back on for at most 15 seconds be harmful assuming she does not go into forced shut down? or should I avoid an attempt to turn her back on?
my reasoning is that the forced shut down has never occured on a cold set, although forced shutdown is now more frequent and happens in as little as five minutes of TV usage, previously she'd to be on for hours and really warmed up before the forced shutdown to occur.
OK heres the outcome of my repair. The set works great now!!!!!!!
What i did was follow the suggestion on this post, I re-soldered ALL the joints of the power supply board. litterally 100's of them. Most all of the factory solder joints had way too little solder, the solder barely covered the holes in the PCB, many where cracked and thus of poor resistance. I had to remove the silicone glue that was on several areas, and needed to use a dental pick to clean out a few holes that had silicone in them. Used a temperature controled solder iron, a brite lamp and a stereo microscope, these are tiny solder joints. My father even built up a wooden stand to hold the PCB upside down, which made life easy. spent maybe 8-10 hours on the whole project, cleaning, soldering, and removal and install. This board had evidence of prior repair as a small number of joints where clearly re-hand soldered. i suppose this was the factory repair (I am the second owner, not sure of full history) even the factory hand solder joints where suspect, thin on the solder. So every thing was redone by me, plenty of new solder added to prevent future high resistance joints and failed joints
Thanks again for all the advice!