Pioneer Elite Pro-510 problem - Page 100 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #2971 of 2977 Old 01-24-2016, 06:52 PM
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Free ($0) Pioneer Elite PRO-610HD in San Francisco Bay Area

I have replaced my beloved Pioneer Elite PRO-610HD rear projection set. I lined the inside with black duvetyn. And Bob Jones (Mr. bob) re-soldered the power board a few years ago. I still have the protective cover and remote. Set works great.

Let me know if you want the set. My phone is 925-989-9480 and I live in San Ramon, CA. I have no way of arranging transportation.

The set is free ($0)

Tom
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post #2972 of 2977 Old 05-09-2016, 11:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by microbus63 View Post
Quote:Originally Posted by microbus63

Hello:

I have an Elite Pro 510HD TV set. Some months ago she turned off while I was watching a show, the set had been on for a couple hours. She made a pop noise when the TV went off, I turned the set back on via the main power switch, and all was good. several weeks later it did it again, i tuned it back on, then five minutes later it happened again. twice more and she didn't turn on again then a few days later i tried again and she worked, but after a while off again,

when the TV pops and goes off the green power light turns to red, I must cycle the main power button.
recenlty she shut off.I tired to restart and gave up. (ie I gave up with immediatly trying to restart) that was a week ago.

That is when i looked up this AVS forum. I have read about the power supply cold joints. I may have this problem.

What would be the next course of action?

should try to resart her one more time, but make sure that if she does start, to make sure i shut her down within 15 seconds to make sure no further forced shutdowns occur. If i am able start her up, then i assume if have the power supply board re-soldered she will work ok again? Is this a good assumption. (I dont want to put time and money into a repaired power supply board, just to find some other pricey parts are blown.

Would a brief test of turning her back on for at most 15 seconds be harmful assuming she does not go into forced shut down? or should I avoid an attempt to turn her back on?

my reasoning is that the forced shut down has never occured on a cold set, although forced shutdown is now more frequent and happens in as little as five minutes of TV usage, previously she'd to be on for hours and really warmed up before the forced shutdown to occur.

suggestions?













OK heres the outcome of my repair. The set works great now!!!!!!!

What i did was follow the suggestion on this post, I re-soldered ALL the joints of the power supply board. litterally 100's of them. Most all of the factory solder joints had way too little solder, the solder barely covered the holes in the PCB, many where cracked and thus of poor resistance. I had to remove the silicone glue that was on several areas, and needed to use a dental pick to clean out a few holes that had silicone in them. Used a temperature controled solder iron, a brite lamp and a stereo microscope, these are tiny solder joints. My father even built up a wooden stand to hold the PCB upside down, which made life easy. spent maybe 8-10 hours on the whole project, cleaning, soldering, and removal and install. This board had evidence of prior repair as a small number of joints where clearly re-hand soldered. i suppose this was the factory repair (I am the second owner, not sure of full history) even the factory hand solder joints where suspect, thin on the solder. So every thing was redone by me, plenty of new solder added to prevent future high resistance joints and failed joints

Thanks again for all the advice!

Microbus





On nearly three years since I resoldered all the connections on my power supply board as detailed above.


Now a new problem....

I turned on the TV set yesterday and got no picture, sound only. When I turned it on I was using input 1 which is for my digital receiver for over the air broadcasts, No picture, but I did get sound. I then switched to input 2 that is for my LG Brand blueray player. I got the normal LG logo screen as the blueray player booted up, and then the usual Blueray Main Menu screen from the blueray player came up and displayed fine also, but when I started to play the Blueray disc the picture went out again (sound remained on and I could listen to the program from the blueray disc). I tried this several times, each time the logo screen for the bluerey and the main menu screen for blueray displayed just fine, but as soon as the disc started to play the screen would go black, no picture. I then switched to input 3, my VCR and got no picture (but got volume), finally I tried input 4, my old X box game and again no picture, volume only.

TV worked fine a day or two before when I last had it on, and I hadn't changed anything since it worked, all four inputs have been working for my Antenna tuner, Blueray Player, VCR and X Box.





Is this symptom of loss of video, but not of audio of another failed solder joint on my TV power supply board, or something else? If so what? Can anyone advise on test(s) I should perform, specific things I should check?


Id really like to fix this tv set if practical, specially after taking the time not too long ago resoldering the board, I got to know it and like old school stuff.






THANK YOU






PS And as a secondary question what could be different about the blueray player, why would the video signal for the Blueray boot-up "LG" logo screen and the Blueray Main Menu screen be different than the actual media playing from the disc as does seem to be the case, that is a weird one??? it is not like the TV set is cold when the blueray goes thru the initial boot up and main menu screen and the TV set has gotten warm by the time I get to playing the disc. I can toggle between the blueray players Main Menu and Play of the disc and the video works for the Main Menu screen but not for Playing the disc, (only sound). My main concern is getting the Tv working again, but I am curious about why the video only works for the blueray boot up and menu screens, that is puzzling. why are they any different than any of the other video signals that are not working now?






advice appreciated.


thanks!

Last edited by microbus63; 05-09-2016 at 11:24 PM. Reason: clarification
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post #2973 of 2977 Old 01-20-2017, 06:24 PM
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DETROIT, MI - - FREE TV-- I have a Pioneer Elite (Pro-620 / 58") that works great but moving across country. Power supply board has been re-soldered and was calibrated by an ISF technician couple years ago.

Email me at rcernie@hotmail.com
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post #2974 of 2977 Old 04-15-2017, 06:07 PM
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I also have a Pro610HD, perfect condition, free to a good home. I'm in Austin TX, in case anyone is interested. It hasn't been calibrated, or even focused in a while, but everything works great, the sound is good, the picture is excellent. No scratches or dings, and it rolls perfectly.
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post #2975 of 2977 Old 08-15-2017, 08:31 AM
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And with a comprehensive optics cleaning could look like new again. Just don't take any chances, those lenses are plastic and very susceptible to being scratched/scuffed and your mirror is a front surface mirror. Use ONLY the correct methods and materials. If you do, your set will look like new in an afternoon.

Robert Jones
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post #2976 of 2977 Old 08-15-2017, 08:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by microbus63 View Post
On nearly three years since I resoldered all the connections on my power supply board as detailed above.


Now a new problem....

I turned on the TV set yesterday and got no picture, sound only. When I turned it on I was using input 1 which is for my digital receiver for over the air broadcasts, No picture, but I did get sound. I then switched to input 2 that is for my LG Brand blueray player. I got the normal LG logo screen as the blueray player booted up, and then the usual Blueray Main Menu screen from the blueray player came up and displayed fine also, but when I started to play the Blueray disc the picture went out again (sound remained on and I could listen to the program from the blueray disc). I tried this several times, each time the logo screen for the bluerey and the main menu screen for blueray displayed just fine, but as soon as the disc started to play the screen would go black, no picture. I then switched to input 3, my VCR and got no picture (but got volume), finally I tried input 4, my old X box game and again no picture, volume only.

TV worked fine a day or two before when I last had it on, and I hadn't changed anything since it worked, all four inputs have been working for my Antenna tuner, Blueray Player, VCR and X Box.





Is this symptom of loss of video, but not of audio of another failed solder joint on my TV power supply board, or something else? If so what? Can anyone advise on test(s) I should perform, specific things I should check?


Id really like to fix this tv set if practical, specially after taking the time not too long ago resoldering the board, I got to know it and like old school stuff.






THANK YOU






PS And as a secondary question what could be different about the blueray player, why would the video signal for the Blueray boot-up "LG" logo screen and the Blueray Main Menu screen be different than the actual media playing from the disc as does seem to be the case, that is a weird one??? it is not like the TV set is cold when the blueray goes thru the initial boot up and main menu screen and the TV set has gotten warm by the time I get to playing the disc. I can toggle between the blueray players Main Menu and Play of the disc and the video works for the Main Menu screen but not for Playing the disc, (only sound). My main concern is getting the Tv working again, but I am curious about why the video only works for the blueray boot up and menu screens, that is puzzling. why are they any different than any of the other video signals that are not working now?






advice appreciated.


thanks!


Sorry it's been so long since I spent time on this thread. Your post was very long when I first saw it and i didn't have time to read it then.

I hope you have kept your set.

What I think has happened is that your BDP sends out 480i/p on menu, but 1080p on video. 1080p is native default out of box scanrate for BDPs these days, tho they usually keep the menu in 480i JIC.

Your set can't handle 1080p or 720p HD, only 1080i HD and of course 480i/p.

This does not explain why your VCR does not work, unless your composite input is simply gone, like it is on my test 610 in my work area. Component works just fine, but composite just gave up the ghost one day and never came back. Or if you are sending in your VCR content via ch. 3 or 4, the built-in NTSC tuner might have bit the dust.

But as far as your HD goes, put your BDP onto some other input that does work, or some other TV that receives 1080p, go into the inner 480i/p menu and tell it to put out ONLY up to 1080i, NOT up to 1080p. Our CRT sets didn't have the advanced high frequency capacity that 1080p uses. It's like a different frequency our sets were never tuned for. The only progressive content our sets receive is 480p.

I have to do that every time I set up a BDP for my set. I use the composite inputs, tho since your menu works fine on component, you can simply do that change as it sits right now.

Robert Jones
Image Perfection
510-278-4247
650-333-4808 cell
bob at imageperfection dot com
www.projectiontvtroubleshootingadvice.com
YouTube channel: mrbobbigscreen


Last edited by Mr Bob; 08-15-2017 at 08:51 AM.
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post #2977 of 2977 Old 08-15-2017, 08:54 AM
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I am coming up from the SF Bay Area for my 50th high school reunion Wednesday the 16th, which promises to be interesting to say the least. I should be there about a week as I am staying for the eclipse, and would love to tip one or 2 with fellow calibrators and display owners, especially CRT RPTV and FPTV owners.

I am ISF Level 2 certified and have been a member of AVS for well over 15 years. A thread I started in '06 called "Don't Dump Your CRT RPTV!" hit the million view mark a couple years ago. My post count is currently just short of 10,000.

Please contact me directly and early on, let's see what our schedules look like -

Robert Jones
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bob at imageperfection dot com
www.projectiontvtroubleshootingadvice.com
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