Pioneer Elite Pro-510 problem - Page 25 - AVS Forum
Forum Jump: 
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #721 of 2933 Old 11-17-2006, 12:18 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Mr Bob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: San Francisco Bay Area/San Lorenzo, CA., USA
Posts: 9,352
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 20 Post(s)
Liked: 46
Quote:
Originally Posted by PamW View Post

They were beautifully glossy and NOT thin anywhere - as a matter of fact they looked a whole lot better than the old board. It helped to see the boards side by side as well.



Cool. Maybe we can trust these new boards from Pio after all.


Mr Bob

Robert Jones
Image Perfection
510-278-4247
650-333-4808 cell
bob at imageperfection dot com
www.projectiontvtroubleshootingadvice.com
YouTube channel: mrbobbigscreen

Mr Bob is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #722 of 2933 Old 11-17-2006, 12:44 PM
AVS Special Member
 
PamW's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Greensboro, NC
Posts: 2,535
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Bob View Post

Cool. Maybe we can trust these new boards from Pio after all.


Mr Bob

As a matter of fact, my tech was pleasantly surprised to see how well the new board was soldered. He had already heated his up in anticipation of a poor soldering job by Pioneer.

Pam
PamW is offline  
post #723 of 2933 Old 11-18-2006, 01:20 PM
Newbie
 
pet_sounds's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 2
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I haven't been able to read the entirety of this gargantuan thread, but I wanted to know if a class-action suit against Pioneer has ever been instituted. It seems from this thread that a significant amount of the x10 series of Elite RPTVs have succumbed to this design flaw. My 510 won't even turn on anymore, and I am mad as hell that I gave Pioneer $5000, believing that they truly had the superior product. Now I can see that the quality was only superficial, and waiting in its innards was a ticking timebomb. Funny, I had one of their Elite DVD players completely fail on me too. I should've figured it out then.

I do know this -- because of this design flaw and Pioneer's inability to admit and own up to it, I will never in my life buy another Pioneer product. The level of arrogance they show to their customers makes them undeserving of anyone's hard-earned money. They may have gotten a few thousand dollars from me, but over my (hopefully long) lifetime they will have lost many times that amount from me to their competitors.

I was going to try to get the board resoldered, but you know what? I'm sick of it. I just want out. Tired of my wife complaining about how big it is, tired of having no television for over two weeks now (the TV tech conveniently decided to call in sick). It was a great set while it lasted, but my anger at Pioneer has permeated the set itself, and I'll just have to pony up and buy a plasma set, of admittedly lower picture quality (I never realized how great the line doubler in these sets are until I really started looking at SD feeds on plasmas and seeing blocky artifacts all over the place).

Good luck to those who choose to remain with this set and with Pioneer in general.
pet_sounds is offline  
post #724 of 2933 Old 11-18-2006, 02:23 PM
AVS Special Member
 
PamW's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Greensboro, NC
Posts: 2,535
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
pet_sounds,

Welcome to the forum!

I know you are upset - we all are - but if you can get yours soldered for a measly amount of $$, you'll be much more pleased than with an inferior picture from another TV. Plus, you'll save a whole lot of money in the process by not having to repurchase.

Pam
PamW is offline  
post #725 of 2933 Old 11-18-2006, 05:53 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Mr Bob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: San Francisco Bay Area/San Lorenzo, CA., USA
Posts: 9,352
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 20 Post(s)
Liked: 46
Quote:
Originally Posted by PamW View Post

pet_sounds,

Welcome to the forum!

I know you are upset - we all are - but if you can get yours soldered for a measly amount of $$, you'll be much more pleased than with an inferior picture from another TV. Plus, you'll save a whole lot of money in the process by not having to repurchase.


Right. I could deliver a set to you that looks BETTER than when it was first new. I feel your pain, but don't let them win another round by making you pay thru the nose to get a 1080p plasma, 1080p being the only format that can compete with your set's pic when set up correctly. The best one out there, the 65" Panny, is currently MSRPing at $10,000.

(So is the Pioneer FHD1, but I'm sure you wouldn't be buying anything from Pioneer anyway...)

Having a fairly direct and predictable repair job done on your set and then restoring it to better than new performance with a cleaning and calibration is NOT co-operating with the enemy, even tho I know it feels that way.

It is taking a below the belt hit directly in the shorts, finding it's not really all that expensive to live with, and doing what is really a relatively minor repair on the damn thing. Most repairs on big screens are serious business, and can get very expensive. This does not fit that scenario. Pioneer, despite the truth in all you said above, did not make these sets with serious flaws, like some brands I could name. (No names, but I will not work on a Toshiba in the field if it has anything other than convergence wrong with it, and the only Proscans I have ever serviced were seriously technician UNfriendly... won't work on them either...)

Aside from this resoldering needing done on the PS board, very few things go wrong with Pioneers in the field. I have been repairing electronics for well over 20 years, and I know whereof I speak. I am rarely called upon to repair them, out there.

Yeah it is a serious oversight on Pioneer's part, and along with you and Pam I hope that lots of people boycott future purchases of Pioneer products because of this. But while your set still has only THIS problem, you'd be LOADS of money ahead - and I mean serious money here - to just get the board resoldered, restore it if desired with the same kind of periodic maintenance all CRT RPTV big screens need every once in awhile, like Lamborgini's do - cleaning and calibration - and get on with your life.



Mr Bob

Robert Jones
Image Perfection
510-278-4247
650-333-4808 cell
bob at imageperfection dot com
www.projectiontvtroubleshootingadvice.com
YouTube channel: mrbobbigscreen

Mr Bob is offline  
post #726 of 2933 Old 11-19-2006, 07:46 AM
Senior Member
 
PRO710HD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: NW Chicago Burbs
Posts: 376
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Mr. Bob;

Can you help me out with the optics cleaninh. I'm guessing that my PRO710 needs the deep optics cleaned so can you tell how to disassemble the lens pack to allow this?
PRO710HD is offline  
post #727 of 2933 Old 11-19-2006, 10:48 AM
AVS Special Member
 
Mr Bob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: San Francisco Bay Area/San Lorenzo, CA., USA
Posts: 9,352
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 20 Post(s)
Liked: 46
Quote:
Originally Posted by PRO710HD View Post

Mr. Bob;

Can you help me out with the optics cleaninh. I'm guessing that my PRO710 needs the deep optics cleaned so can you tell how to disassemble the lens pack to allow this?


Each lens is held on with 4 screws. They must be the correct screws or the coolant will be released and will drop down onto your electronics below. NOT a good idea.

Many Mits's are presently being ruined by this, and there are no new boards to replace with, once a 4 layer board has been infected with partially conductive ethelyn glycol and ruined. Mit coolant leakage just on gp has been happening here in the Bay area with alarming frequency these days. It all started with the HDready lines, and has affected all HD and non-HDready models since then - a high incidence of coolant leakage from their guns.

Once in, you need to use extreme care to not damage anything in there. My methods have been keeping internal and external optics preserved intact for many many years.

Please contact me directly for details on this and all other facets of calibration. I put up a post about this here, a day or 2 ago, post #717.


Mr Bob

Robert Jones
Image Perfection
510-278-4247
650-333-4808 cell
bob at imageperfection dot com
www.projectiontvtroubleshootingadvice.com
YouTube channel: mrbobbigscreen

Mr Bob is offline  
post #728 of 2933 Old 11-19-2006, 07:25 PM
Senior Member
 
PRO710HD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: NW Chicago Burbs
Posts: 376
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Just curious:

Has anyone on this board been able to clean their "deep optics" themselves?

I'm pretty handy but wondering if I should just leave the cleaning to the surface lens and mirror?
PRO710HD is offline  
post #729 of 2933 Old 11-22-2006, 07:05 PM
Newbie
 
briguy_78's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 4
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Hi Everyone,
I'm new to the forum and have Pro 710 and can happily say I have not had any problems with my set. I've had it calibrated a few years ago and just recently had it cleaned.

Trying to make my way through the massive amounts of info. on this forum, but wanted to get your views on dvd players. I'm currently using a Pioneer Elite DVC36 (5 disc player). With all the hoopla re. HD dvd, I'm left scratching my head as my TV can only accept component inputs and it appears that you need HDMI in order to get the full benefits of the upconversion. What dvd players are folks using and what do you recommend getting to replace my current dvd player (hd or non hd)?

Thx,

Brian
briguy_78 is offline  
post #730 of 2933 Old 11-23-2006, 12:31 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Mr Bob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: San Francisco Bay Area/San Lorenzo, CA., USA
Posts: 9,352
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 20 Post(s)
Liked: 46
Quote:
Originally Posted by briguy_78 View Post

Hi Everyone,
I'm new to the forum and have Pro 710 and can happily say I have not had any problems with my set. I've had it calibrated a few years ago and just recently had it cleaned.

Trying to make my way through the massive amounts of info. on this forum, but wanted to get your views on dvd players. I'm currently using a Pioneer Elite DVC36 (5 disc player). With all the hoopla re. HD dvd, I'm left scratching my head as my TV can only accept component inputs and it appears that you need HDMI in order to get the full benefits of the upconversion. What dvd players are folks using and what do you recommend getting to replace my current dvd player (hd or non hd)?

Thx,

Brian


For a CRT RPTV, having a digital interface like DVI or HDMI will not improve your picture. May make digital fixed pixel sets look their best, but for CRT, component or RGB deliver the absolute best pic you'll ever get or need to get on your CRT set, regardless of format. And avoid needless transcoding of analog to digital.

I use a Sammy 841 DVDP in my system for my year 2000 component-only Panny and have one brand new factory boxed one left, that can be hacked to OP 1080i/720p - or anything else - on component. The hack results in a message that says "HDCP FREE!" The one I have on the shelf is available if anybody out there wants it. The other one stays in my system!

I have also heard the Oppo's may be able to do this, but have no personal experience to verify that.

If you can find an older Momitsu 880 or LiteOn LVD 2001 or (Bravo D1, maybe?), they both OP'd 720p/1080i on component native. No hacks necessary.


Mr Bob

Robert Jones
Image Perfection
510-278-4247
650-333-4808 cell
bob at imageperfection dot com
www.projectiontvtroubleshootingadvice.com
YouTube channel: mrbobbigscreen

Mr Bob is offline  
post #731 of 2933 Old 11-24-2006, 08:03 AM
Member
 
tmmuch's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 30
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Bob View Post

For a CRT RPTV, having a digital interface like DVI or HDMI will not improve your picture. May make digital fixed pixel sets look their best, but for CRT, component or RGB deliver the absolute best pic you'll ever get or need to get on your CRT set, regardless of format. And avoid needless transcoding of analog to digital.

I use a Sammy 841 DVDP in my system for my year 2000 component-only Panny and have one brand new factory boxed one left, that can be hacked to OP 1080i/720p - or anything else - on component. The hack results in a message that says "HDCP FREE!" The one I have on the shelf is available if anybody out there wants it. The other one stays in my system!

I have also heard the Oppo's may be able to do this, but have no personal experience to verify that.

If you can find an older Momitsu 880 or LiteOn LVD 2001 or (Bravo D1, maybe?), they both OP'd 720p/1080i on component native. No hacks necessary.


Mr Bob

Very interesting, Mr. Bob. Finding a DVDP with 1080i or 720p native output would definitely add value...and a few more years of service...to the ol' RPTVs, IMHO.

But I've never actually viewed a standard DVD on one of these players. Are they that much better?
tmmuch is offline  
post #732 of 2933 Old 11-24-2006, 09:58 AM
AVS Special Member
 
Mr Bob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: San Francisco Bay Area/San Lorenzo, CA., USA
Posts: 9,352
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 20 Post(s)
Liked: 46
Quote:
Originally Posted by tmmuch View Post

Very interesting, Mr. Bob. Finding a DVDP with 1080i or 720p native output would definitely add value...and a few more years of service...to the ol' RPTVs, IMHO.

But I've never actually viewed a standard DVD on one of these players. Are they that much better?


Actually it depends on how far back you sit.

The primary concern in getting 1080i OP on non-HD sources was to not have the scanlines so darned visible/obvious on the bigger displays. This has always been the bane of bigger displays, and has been one of the primary purposes of Faroudja products since day one, with their line doublers, triplers and quadruplers for use on ceiling pjs with 8' and up screens.

On either version of 480 - i or p - scanlines are extremely distracting to me, as I sit 8' back from a fully focused/converged 65" display. This makes the "window slat" effect of 480 - i or p - very evident, bordering on totally obvious at all times.

My criteria for dialing in a display is for everything to be crisp and clean in there. That unfortunately, by its very nature, has to of absolute necessity include scanlines. The only way to get rid of scanlines any other way involves some level of blurring of the picture, which I simply won't allow in my calibrations, which deliver the absolute crispness available in today's technology. With my cals, you get to see EXACTLY what's on your display, whatever that may be.

Including scanlines.

In fact visible scanlines are incredibly valuable in focusing displays. That's why I use 480 scanlines and not 1080 scanlines on the grids I use to focus displays, since 480 scanlines are so much easier to see on any display than 1080 scanlines are.


At 8' back from my 65" CRT display I can still see the scanlines of 1080i on my display on scenes with bright white content and lettering. I can live with that. It's worth it to be able to be swept away into suspension of disbelief anyway by the rest of the parts of the images, which take up 99% of the rest of my attention.

I just don't want to be staring 480 lines in the face the entire time I'm viewing. The window slat effect is just too distracting.

If you sit way far back from your display, none of this will matter. But if you sit as close as you possibly/comfortably can to your display - like I do - it does matter.


Mr Bob

Robert Jones
Image Perfection
510-278-4247
650-333-4808 cell
bob at imageperfection dot com
www.projectiontvtroubleshootingadvice.com
YouTube channel: mrbobbigscreen

Mr Bob is offline  
post #733 of 2933 Old 11-24-2006, 10:20 AM
Member
 
billythekid's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Harrison Township, MI
Posts: 24
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Bad news for me. Pioneer contacted my friendly local TV repair company and agreed to supply them a new PS board or pay them to resolder mine as the tech sees fit. The problem is they want $200. to $260. to come to my house and check the problem. They insist that I agree to purchase any parts the tech feels my set needs other than the PS board. I advised Pioneer of this and they will not supply the part to any other than a Pioneer approved repair service. I can not believe they are not stepping up on this problem. They did say I could purchase the board and request a refund after it is installed. They did not say they would give the refund for sure......
billythekid is offline  
post #734 of 2933 Old 11-24-2006, 02:17 PM
Senior Member
 
PRO710HD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: NW Chicago Burbs
Posts: 376
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Sounds like what I went through Billy;

almost 4 weeks of chasing them all they offered was to resolder the board but wanted me to pay 200 bucks.

I said "screw 'em" and soldered the board myself.

Happy 710 owner again! Now to muster enough courage to do my optics cleaning..
PRO710HD is offline  
post #735 of 2933 Old 11-25-2006, 04:16 AM
AVS Special Member
 
Mr Bob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: San Francisco Bay Area/San Lorenzo, CA., USA
Posts: 9,352
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 20 Post(s)
Liked: 46
Quote:
Originally Posted by PRO710HD View Post

Happy 710 owner again! Now to muster enough courage to do my optics cleaning..


I am there for private phone consultation with you, if you get in there and don't quite "feel lucky"...

To see how much dirt is caked on your lenses after all these years, be sure to shine your flashlight at the lenses from the side, while you are viewing the set from the front, if nothing is on.

If viewing material is on, make it bright light level material and observe the caked on dust straight from the front, with your eyes down where the lenses would be at eye level, not from standing up.

Then lick your finger and draw a happy face in your green lens, to see how black the surface SHOULD be, and is when completely clean. But be sure your finger is wet before you do so, and AS you do so. You don't want to scratch the surface of your lens!


Mr Bob

Robert Jones
Image Perfection
510-278-4247
650-333-4808 cell
bob at imageperfection dot com
www.projectiontvtroubleshootingadvice.com
YouTube channel: mrbobbigscreen

Mr Bob is offline  
post #736 of 2933 Old 11-25-2006, 12:26 PM
Newbie
 
joec1210's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 2
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Hi Everyone,

I have a Pioneer Elite Pro-510HD Projection TV. I just had a TV repair man at my house to confirm what I already knew, but he charged me $100. My TV turns on and then just shuts off intermittently. I then unplug it and plug it back in and I can get it to turn on. It shuts off approximately 2 - 3 times in a 4 - 6 viewing period. The repair man told me I need to replace my power board which I could see was located in the very bottom right corner of the TV from the back as he had the back panel off. He told me it would be an additional $750 plus tax for the part and labor with a 90 day warranty.

Should I be shopping around for a better price, or is this a good price considering what is wrong? Can I directly order this piece from Pioneer? I read a few times people say this repair should cost as little as $200 - $400 tops. I tried to find the part I need at Pioneer but I find 2 parts that I believe are what I need and I don't know which is for my TV

AWV1795 POWER SUPPLY ASSY (FOR OLD MOD) $299.16
or

AWV1872 POWER SUPPLY ASSY (FOR NEW MOD) $294.06

I believe one of these is the correct parts for my TV and they cost about $300.00 each (although I don't know what a "CORE" charge is that Pioneer says is an additional $100). Should I only be paying $100 in labor cost to have this piece installed and the old one removed? I just don't know what a fair price is? $300 for the part and $100 for labor???


I would sincerely appreciate your insight. Thank you for your time and consideration, and happy holidays.

Regards,
Joe Cosentino
joec1210 is offline  
post #737 of 2933 Old 11-25-2006, 01:41 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Mr Bob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: San Francisco Bay Area/San Lorenzo, CA., USA
Posts: 9,352
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 20 Post(s)
Liked: 46
Quote:
Originally Posted by joec1210 View Post

Hi Everyone,

I have a Pioneer Elite Pro-510HD Projection TV. I just had a TV repair man at my house to confirm what I already knew, but he charged me $100. My TV turns on and then just shuts off intermittently. I then unplug it and plug it back in and I can get it to turn on. It shuts off approximately 2 - 3 times in a 4 - 6 viewing period. The repair man told me I need to replace my power board which I could see was located in the very bottom right corner of the TV from the back as he had the back panel off. He told me it would be an additional $750 plus tax for the part and labor with a 90 day warranty.

Should I be shopping around for a better price, or is this a good price considering what is wrong? Can I directly order this piece from Pioneer? I read a few times people say this repair should cost as little as $200 - $400 tops. I tried to find the part I need at Pioneer but I find 2 parts that I believe are what I need and I don't know which is for my TV

AWV1795 POWER SUPPLY ASSY (FOR OLD MOD) $299.16
or

AWV1872 POWER SUPPLY ASSY (FOR NEW MOD) $294.06

I believe one of these is the correct parts for my TV and they cost about $300.00 each (although I don't know what a "CORE" charge is that Pioneer says is an additional $100). Should I only be paying $100 in labor cost to have this piece installed and the old one removed? I just don't know what a fair price is? $300 for the part and $100 for labor???


I would sincerely appreciate your insight. Thank you for your time and consideration, and happy holidays.

Regards,
Joe Cosentino


Joe -

First of all, you should delete your redundant post here on the thread. The Edit option allows for this. It would keep things tidy, here, for those who are just joining us.


If you are handy, you can save a ton of money here. What this guy is charging is OK for those who are not in the know and need someone professional on the case to do everything for them. You are not in that category. Obviously. You are here on this thread.



Buy the board from Pio and install it yourself, you'll save several hundred bucks. The plug-ins all have different numbers of legs, and as long as you keep the bundling as it is and don't change it, the wiring should fit in there just fine - plugged in on the new board, without a hitch.

The core charge is just to make sure they get the original board back, so they can resolder it and sell it to us again, "rebuilt". You get the $100 back as soon as they receive the old board back.


Mr Bob

Robert Jones
Image Perfection
510-278-4247
650-333-4808 cell
bob at imageperfection dot com
www.projectiontvtroubleshootingadvice.com
YouTube channel: mrbobbigscreen

Mr Bob is offline  
post #738 of 2933 Old 11-25-2006, 03:05 PM
Newbie
 
joec1210's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 2
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Mr. Bob,

Thank you very much for the help. I apologize for the duplicate message as I believe that I did delete one as you instructed.

I have never worked on a TV before. I understand slight car mechanics and can assemble anything with instructions. Do you believe that I can sucessfully install this power board? I have never soldered anything before and I am not sure if this is required for installing a new power board. Also, I am not sure if I can remove the existing power board without damaging the wires or connections? I would appreciate your thoughts here. I am up for the task, especially to save several hundred dollars, but I don't want to further damage the TV. I did appreciate your vote of confidence in the first message, but I just want to clarify my capabilities and what is needed to replace this power board. Please let me know what you think. Thank you again.

Regards,

Joe Cosentino
joec1210 is offline  
post #739 of 2933 Old 11-25-2006, 04:31 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Mr Bob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: San Francisco Bay Area/San Lorenzo, CA., USA
Posts: 9,352
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 20 Post(s)
Liked: 46
Quote:
Originally Posted by joec1210 View Post

Mr. Bob,

Thank you very much for the help. I apologize for the duplicate message as I believe that I did delete one as you instructed.

I have never worked on a TV before. I understand slight car mechanics and can assemble anything with instructions. Do you believe that I can sucessfully install this power board? I have never soldered anything before and I am not sure if this is required for installing a new power board. Also, I am not sure if I can remove the existing power board without damaging the wires or connections? I would appreciate your thoughts here. I am up for the task, especially to save several hundred dollars, but I don't want to further damage the TV. I did appreciate your vote of confidence in the first message, but I just want to clarify my capabilities and what is needed to replace this power board. Please let me know what you think. Thank you again.

Regards,

Joe Cosentino


Good job on the deletion of the redundant post. Looks like it was never here...

I have had to do that on occasion, because the time lag for getting a post I had submitted dragged on and on and on, and finally I bailed out into doing the send again, resulting in a double post. Fortunately they make it easy to clean that up, here on these boards.


Everything - EVERYTHING - is plug-in on this PS board, so you don't have to worry about soldering anything, in order to get it in and out.

Since you have never done any soldering before, probably best you not start out on this board as your first project. But others are saving ALL $ outlay by resoldering it themselves. That would save you more than just a couple of hundred!

But in your case it's probably best you get the new board, or send yours to me and I'll resolder it for you. I charge $250 for that service, once it is in my hands. Since there's S&H to factor in both ways, paid on your end, and you are inexperienced at TV repairs, you may as well get the new and fully tested one from Pioneer and put it in. I have no way to test the boards I resolder, unless I am already at an owner's home on location, doing his. And using his TV for testing my resolder job.

When you pull the plugs out of the old board, at each plug's location be sure and hold the board down near the plug's jack, so you don't bend the board. You don't have to release the board's metal carriage and remove it - you've got to take the board off the carriage anyway and put the new board in its place, so just undo all the screws holding the board in place and leave the carriage where it is, mounted to the TV. You may have to search for all the screws that need to come out on that board, they are all over the place. Most have a little white "carrot" pointing to the screw in question, if it has to come out.

Other than that, there's nothing more complicated about this than you'd find in a simple car maintenance issue, or putting a bike together for your kid, if you have one.

Good luck!


Mr Bob

Robert Jones
Image Perfection
510-278-4247
650-333-4808 cell
bob at imageperfection dot com
www.projectiontvtroubleshootingadvice.com
YouTube channel: mrbobbigscreen

Mr Bob is offline  
post #740 of 2933 Old 11-26-2006, 09:57 AM
Member
 
rkumar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Metro Detroit
Posts: 41
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Bob View Post

For a CRT RPTV, having a digital interface like DVI or HDMI will not improve your picture. May make digital fixed pixel sets look their best, but for CRT, component or RGB deliver the absolute best pic you'll ever get or need to get on your CRT set, regardless of format. And avoid needless transcoding of analog to digital.

I use a Sammy 841 DVDP in my system for my year 2000 component-only Panny and have one brand new factory boxed one left, that can be hacked to OP 1080i/720p - or anything else - on component. The hack results in a message that says "HDCP FREE!" The one I have on the shelf is available if anybody out there wants it. The other one stays in my system!

I have also heard the Oppo's may be able to do this, but have no personal experience to verify that.

If you can find an older Momitsu 880 or LiteOn LVD 2001 or (Bravo D1, maybe?), they both OP'd 720p/1080i on component native. No hacks necessary.


Mr Bob

I have the same problem as the OP was explaining. Is anyone aware of a conversion method that accepts HDCP to convert from HDMI/DVI to component? Or, is there an add-on to the pioneer hdtv that will make a HDMI/DVI slot available? It is a shame to see that everything is moving to digital with copy protection. There must be some way to overcome this issue so that this perfectly fine TV doesn't become obsolete in a few years.
rkumar is offline  
post #741 of 2933 Old 11-26-2006, 01:17 PM
AVS Special Member
 
PamW's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Greensboro, NC
Posts: 2,535
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by rkumar View Post

I have the same problem as the OP was explaining. Is anyone aware of a conversion method that accepts HDCP to convert from HDMI/DVI to component? Or, is there an add-on to the pioneer hdtv that will make a HDMI/DVI slot available? It is a shame to see that everything is moving to digital with copy protection. There must be some way to overcome this issue so that this perfectly fine TV doesn't become obsolete in a few years.

We just purchased a Playstation 3 and to hook it up we had to purchase (sigh) the Monster HDMI to component with optical audio. It works for us like a charm! I just hate the fact that I was unable to find a cheaper similar quality product for our needs.
http://www.circuitcity.com/ssm/Monst...oductDetail.do

Pam
PamW is offline  
post #742 of 2933 Old 11-26-2006, 09:56 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Mr Bob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: San Francisco Bay Area/San Lorenzo, CA., USA
Posts: 9,352
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 20 Post(s)
Liked: 46
Quote:
Originally Posted by PamW View Post

We just purchased a Playstation 3 and to hook it up we had to purchase (sigh) the Monster HDMI to component with optical audio. It works for us like a charm! I just hate the fact that I was unable to find a cheaper similar quality product for our needs.
http://www.circuitcity.com/ssm/Monst...oductDetail.do


Not an unreasonable price, tho, for something that does what it does. I am surprised to see it at all! And glad...

It DOES work on things other than Playstation, tho, to convert HDMI to component, right?


Mr Bob

Robert Jones
Image Perfection
510-278-4247
650-333-4808 cell
bob at imageperfection dot com
www.projectiontvtroubleshootingadvice.com
YouTube channel: mrbobbigscreen

Mr Bob is offline  
post #743 of 2933 Old 11-27-2006, 05:10 AM
AVS Special Member
 
PamW's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Greensboro, NC
Posts: 2,535
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Bob View Post

Not an unreasonable price, tho, for something that does what it does. I am surprised to see it at all! And glad...

It DOES work on things other than Playstation, tho, to convert HDMI to component, right?


Mr Bob

I don't know if it works on other things.

We watched Ice Age The Meltdown the other night on Blu-Ray and the picture was incredible! I could count Manny's hairs -er - furs(?). The detail was terrific - Comparable to my OTA HD...maybe better!

Pam
PamW is offline  
post #744 of 2933 Old 11-27-2006, 10:31 AM
Newbie
 
Eholm's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 11
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Hi All,

I am another PRO610HD owner that has suffered through the cold solder issues on the power supply board. The problem started about 18 months ago. The screen would start flickering blue, flash and then be normal for several minutes to many weeks. The problem got progressively worse over the next 14 months, occasionaly the pop would be followed by a shutdown that required me to turn the power switch off, wait a few minutes and then turn the set back on.

Then about 4 months ago the set popped loudly and shut down. When I turned the set back on the picture was a series of blue/green/red, washed out, bowed lines. The picture filled about 60 to 80% of the screen. I turned off the Set and waited an additional 20 minutes. The set turned on again and looked normal.

Two months ago, after having read this site, I resolved to reflow the solder joints on the power supply assembly. I focused my attention to the joints for the various wiring harnesses E5, E4, E3 etc. I also addresses virtually every other joint that appeared suspect. I reinstalled the board and the set turned on. The picture even seemed to be better than before. Not so washed out.

All was well for a few weeks, until the set began to pop and go into shutdown again. No Blue Flash, no real warning. Again, I would go through the power off wait power on procedure. Sometimes I would get the blue/green/red, washed out, bowed lines. But, the shutdown would only happen when the set was initially turned on. After it warmed up, it would be fine.

Finally, last week, the set popped and shut down, permanately. I took the back panel off and noticed a blown 5amp fuse on the power supply board and two red led's. One on the power supply, the other on the convergance assembly, the 2 layer board on the left side.

Well, again after reading this board, I surmised that my STK IC's had gone. I had some overnighted to me and replaced them on wednesday. The set turned on and looked great. Clearly the convergence needed tweaking, but Turkey Day footbal took precedence.
On friday I reconverged the set and thought I had fixed everything.

Well sunday afternoon, the set popped after about 6 hours of viewing. It turned right back on and was fine, but I am sure this will continue to happen.

I have noticed one thing about the set that I have not heard described here: The On Screen Display - Menu, Input Mode, Screen Mode - all have very slight Jitters. For example, when I change the input mode of the set from tv, to input 1 the OSD is not completely stable. It jumps up and down very slightly. Furthermore, when the set is cold, the screen seems to have the jitters as well.

I am beggining to suspect that something is up with my deflection assembly, but is it possible that the power supply is still the issue? Any and all recommendations are welcome.


Thanks!
Eholm is offline  
post #745 of 2933 Old 11-27-2006, 10:40 AM
AVS Special Member
 
Mr Bob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: San Francisco Bay Area/San Lorenzo, CA., USA
Posts: 9,352
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 20 Post(s)
Liked: 46
Quote:
Originally Posted by PamW View Post

I don't know if it works on other things.

We watched Ice Age The Meltdown the other night on Blu-Ray and the picture was incredible! I could count Manny's hairs -er - furs(?). The detail was terrific - Comparable to my OTA HD...maybe better!


Well, I'm in hope that somebody else checks in and says this PS thing will work for us normal folks who don't play games. Only movies!



Mr Bob

Robert Jones
Image Perfection
510-278-4247
650-333-4808 cell
bob at imageperfection dot com
www.projectiontvtroubleshootingadvice.com
YouTube channel: mrbobbigscreen

Mr Bob is offline  
post #746 of 2933 Old 11-27-2006, 10:55 AM
AVS Special Member
 
Mr Bob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: San Francisco Bay Area/San Lorenzo, CA., USA
Posts: 9,352
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 20 Post(s)
Liked: 46
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eholm View Post

Hi All,

I am another PRO610HD owner that has suffered through the cold solder issues on the power supply board. The problem started about 18 months ago.

...

Two months ago, after having read this site, I resolved to reflow the solder joints on the power supply assembly. I focused my attention to the joints for the various wiring harnesses E5, E4, E3 etc. I also addresses virtually every other joint that appeared suspect.

Many many cold solder joints will be bad even tho they don't LOOK bad. I have found this over and over again, thru the years of repairing these things. That's why I no longer stop with those I can see.



Quote:


Well sunday afternoon, the set popped after about 6 hours of viewing. It turned right back on and was fine, but I am sure this will continue to happen.

I am sure you are correct.

I hope your letting things go so long without remedy didn't cause the convergence probs you had to remedy later come to the surface, but we can only tell from your progress report here - which unfortunatly would seem to indicate that the longer you Pio owners wait to remedy this PS board problem, the more likely it is that other problems will eventually domino-effect themselves into the scenario.


Quote:


I have noticed one thing about the set that I have not heard described here: The On Screen Display - Menu, Input Mode, Screen Mode - all have very slight Jitters. For example, when I change the input mode of the set from tv, to input 1 the OSD is not completely stable. It jumps up and down very slightly. Furthermore, when the set is cold, the screen seems to have the jitters as well.


I have seen this a lot on internally gen'd graphics on RPTVs. It is not a big issue, since it does not appear when you are watching the much more critical program materials we view. It may have roots in things still wrong with your set, but whether it does or not, you need to focus on the still intermittent problems with your set, and let this jitter thing take a back seat. It's a back burner thing, you needn't worry about it. Hopefully it will be remedied when the intermittent probs are.


Quote:


I am beggining to suspect that something is up with my deflection assembly, but is it possible that the power supply is still the issue? Any and all recommendations are welcome.


Thanks!


I think it's still your PS board, that it still has cold solder joints you have not remedied yet. But don't delay, or your defl board may get domino-effected, like your convergence ICs possibly did.


Mr Bob

Robert Jones
Image Perfection
510-278-4247
650-333-4808 cell
bob at imageperfection dot com
www.projectiontvtroubleshootingadvice.com
YouTube channel: mrbobbigscreen

Mr Bob is offline  
post #747 of 2933 Old 11-27-2006, 11:34 AM
Newbie
 
Eholm's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 11
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Bob View Post

Many many cold solder joints will be bad even tho they don't LOOK bad. I have found this over and over again, thru the years of repairing these things. That's why I no longer stop with those I can see.

Cool, I'm sure I have missed something. I think I will just bite the bullet and go over that whole board.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Bob View Post

I hope your letting things go so long without remedy didn't cause the convergence probs you had to remedy later come to the surface, but we can only tell from your progress report here - which unfortunatly would seem to indicate that the longer you Pio owners wait to remedy this PS board problem, the more likely it is that other problems will eventually domino-effect themselves into the scenario.

I'm sure this is what happened. I waited little over a year to fix the board the first time and only after it was more than just the mildly annoying blue flash issue.
Like you've said before - untreated dental work.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Bob View Post

I have seen this a lot on internally gen'd graphics on RPTVs. It is not a big issue, since it does not appear when you are watching the much more critical program materials we view. It may have roots in things still wrong with your set, but whether it does or not, you need to focus on the still intermittent problems with your set, and let this jitter thing take a back seat. It's a back burner thing, you needn't worry about it. Hopefully it will be remedied when the intermittent probs are.

I just had'nt noticed this before and was wondering if it might be symptomatic of a PS issue or a Deflection issue (Maybe both).

I'll go over the power supply assembly and see if that does the trick.

Thanks for your help!
Eholm is offline  
post #748 of 2933 Old 11-28-2006, 08:13 AM
Newbie
 
rolsen's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 2
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I had the pop-and-shutdown problem on a 710. Repairman came out and resoldered PS board for $150 (Oklahoma City area). Now I seem to have the opposite problem: when I turn on the TV, I get a shrunken-down grey raster and a hum with very faint sound. After a while, POP! and the picture and sound come ON!

Any ideas?
rolsen is offline  
post #749 of 2933 Old 11-28-2006, 09:48 AM
AVS Special Member
 
Mr Bob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: San Francisco Bay Area/San Lorenzo, CA., USA
Posts: 9,352
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 20 Post(s)
Liked: 46
I just redid post 717 to include before and afters of the results of my optics cleaning process.

It basically now shows these 2 pix. Yes, they are the same TV, shot the same day, a couple of hours apart. Be sure to expand the views, to see them properly.


Mr Bob
LL
LL

Robert Jones
Image Perfection
510-278-4247
650-333-4808 cell
bob at imageperfection dot com
www.projectiontvtroubleshootingadvice.com
YouTube channel: mrbobbigscreen

Mr Bob is offline  
post #750 of 2933 Old 11-28-2006, 09:51 AM
AVS Special Member
 
Mr Bob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: San Francisco Bay Area/San Lorenzo, CA., USA
Posts: 9,352
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 20 Post(s)
Liked: 46
Quote:
Originally Posted by rolsen View Post

I had the pop-and-shutdown problem on a 710. Repairman came out and resoldered PS board for $150 (Oklahoma City area). Now I seem to have the opposite problem: when I turn on the TV, I get a shrunken-down grey raster and a hum with very faint sound. After a while, POP! and the picture and sound come ON!

Any ideas?





DO NOT run your set in this condition! I have done this repair countless times, and this is NOT the correct result. He has left a solder bridge in there somewhere.

You could be damaging your set with every turn on right now. Let the tech know he screwed up and to bring a magnifying glass and excellent lighting with him, when he comes back to remedy it. Or eat your losses and get someone in there who knows what he's doing, and would never leave your set in that condition.

Shrunken down gray raster is the sign of something shorting, and loading the sweep system down inappropriately. The fact that it's temporary is NOT a saving grace, for this kind of reaction of the circuitry! There's heavy duty stress on your set's system right now, and most likely something's gonna blow.


Mr Bob

Robert Jones
Image Perfection
510-278-4247
650-333-4808 cell
bob at imageperfection dot com
www.projectiontvtroubleshootingadvice.com
YouTube channel: mrbobbigscreen

Mr Bob is offline  
Reply Rear Projection Units

Tags
Pioneer , Pioneer Brand , Pioneer Elite , Pioneer Elite Brand , Pioneer Electronics

User Tag List

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off