Pioneer Elite Pro-510 problem - Page 7 - AVS Forum
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post #181 of 2921 Old 06-10-2005, 10:49 AM
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I just talked to my tech on phone while he was at home about problem. and evenif I did not tell about problem with power supply board, he said " He is going to order POWER SUPPLY BOARD". Now' that is impressive.................
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post #182 of 2921 Old 06-13-2005, 06:54 AM
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Hello Guys, as somebody suggested in this thread, I did put small home FAN on back of TV and Problem looks gone When FAn was ON. TV was on more than 12 hrs on saturday and sunday but no blue flash and automatic shut-off. When fan was off, I was getting blue flash and automatic shut off...............

You figure out yourself. Now, Whenever tech changes my power supply board, I will still use FAN to prevent future ELITE problem. FAN was very quite so I could not hear from 13 feet away from my TV.
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post #183 of 2921 Old 06-13-2005, 07:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimB View Post

My problem has been fixed also but solder joints alone wouldn't fix it all the way. I ended up jumpering the big heat sync so it would by-pass it competely. used a short piece of shielded copper wire. problem fixed since Feb. now.

Can you please post picture of what you did?
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post #184 of 2921 Old 06-13-2005, 12:17 PM
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First off I would like to thank everyone who has contributed to this Tread. Especially Dave610 for the excellent instructions.

My 510 has been acting up for about 6 months with the same problem most people here have been talking about(The blue flash, power down, and pop) It had gotten so bad last Thursday (going out after being on for 5 minutes, then letting it "cooldown" for 15 minutes) that I decided to call a serviceman to come out and take a look at it. Friday afternoon at 2:30 called and had a serviceman scheduled for Wednesday afternoon. At 2:45, I searched the Web and found this thread. I printed out a number of pages and showed them to my wife. We both felt the same way. I think Gary Miller said it best

" I'm really not willing to spend $500-$1000 repairing a set that was built almost 5 years ago. By the same token, I can't see leaving the set on the curb either. "

On Sunday morning I pulled the cover off the back of the set had my wife watch the screen and touched the different areas of the board with the handle of a screwdriver. This gave me an idea of which connectors and heatsinked IC's to concentrate my soldering to. I carefully pulled the board off and took to a work table to do the work. Initially I just heated each of the solder points up to reflow the solder to make a good connection. After doing that I decided to add some solder to each. I did everyone of the "White" connectors on the top left of the board. I also did all the IC's which Had a Heat Sink. There were also about a dozen others that looked suspect so I did those too. I carefully returned the board and tested it out. I touched the same areas with the handle of the screwdriver and NO flickering/Blue flash. I has been 24 hours without a problem.

So for about $0.50 of solder and $2.00 of electricity the problem looks gone.
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post #185 of 2921 Old 06-13-2005, 12:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mac42796 View Post

First off I would like to thank everyone who has contributed to this Tread. Especially Dave610 for the excellent instructions.

My 510 has been acting up for about 6 months with the same problem most people here have been talking about(The blue flash, power down, and pop) It had gotten so bad last Thursday (going out after being on for 5 minutes, then letting it "cooldown" for 15 minutes) that I decided to call a serviceman to come out and take a look at it. Friday afternoon at 2:30 called and had a serviceman scheduled for Wednesday afternoon. At 2:45, I searched the Web and found this thread. I printed out a number of pages and showed them to my wife. We both felt the same way. I think Gary Miller said it best

" I'm really not willing to spend $500-$1000 repairing a set that was built almost 5 years ago. By the same token, I can't see leaving the set on the curb either. "

On Sunday morning I pulled the cover off the back of the set had my wife watch the screen and touched the different areas of the board with the handle of a screwdriver. This gave me an idea of which connectors and heatsinked IC's to concentrate my soldering to. I carefully pulled the board off and took to a work table to do the work. Initially I just heated each of the solder points up to reflow the solder to make a good connection. After doing that I decided to add some solder to each. I did everyone of the "White" connectors on the top left of the board. I also did all the IC's which Had a Heat Sink. There were also about a dozen others that looked suspect so I did those too. I carefully returned the board and tested it out. I touched the same areas with the handle of the screwdriver and NO flickering/Blue flash. I has been 24 hours without a problem.

So for about $0.50 of solder and $2.00 of electricity the problem looks gone.

Very good explaination
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post #186 of 2921 Old 06-13-2005, 12:34 PM
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37 Unhappy Elite TV owners...........

I can think of rest of pioneer elite TV owners................
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post #187 of 2921 Old 06-21-2005, 07:08 AM
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Since technician changed power supply board, TV was on almost 12 hrs, no blue flash or spark. Problem is gone for good.

Thanks guys...........

Now, I can enjoy my elite without any worry..........
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post #188 of 2921 Old 06-23-2005, 06:57 AM
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in 4 days, My TV was automatically shut-off randomly two times. but no blue flash or spark. I still do not under stand, in front of my eyes, Tech changed power supply board and TV is still doing shuts-off. Thank god there is no more blue flash........................
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post #189 of 2921 Old 06-23-2005, 11:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djguy View Post

....

I bought a power supply board from Pioneer about a month and a half ago. Even though I have absolutely no repair skills, I was able to replace the board myself.

NO PROBLEMS WHATSOEVER since I replaced the power supply board. No more blue flash EVER.
....

Jerry

Jerry, in your post #128 above, from last November, you said that your problems had been solved. No more flashes. Then the next post you make in June says you ordered a power supply board from Pioneer a month and a half ago. Did I miss something? Reading between the lines, does this mean that the problem reappeared on your previously repaired (resoldered) board?

I'm a new addition to the blue flash brightness problem club. My Elite 610 was bought new in late December 2000, not sure of the manufacture date right now. The blue flash/brightness problem first appeared last week, about 4.5 years later. I'm long out of warranty. I found this thread (and another at HT Spot) so am naturally reading everything posted above over the past year+ with interest. In my case, I've never had the power shutting off problem, at least yet.

I'm like a lot who have posted here. Don't want to give up on this set just yet because I really like it otherwise and don't really have the funds to upgrade to a comparable new TV. I need to decide if I can find somebody to do the soldering for a reasonable price, or try it myself (haven't soldered in years and never much or very well then), or break down and just buy the new PS board from Pioneer. So I'm interested to know if the re-soldering jobs aren't lasting very long.

At least I know not to bang my head against the wall with Pioneer...

Thanks for any input or updates.
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post #190 of 2921 Old 06-24-2005, 05:59 AM
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I had my 510 fixed (soldering the board) two months ago and it's been perfect very since. I don't know how long it will last, but so far so good.

John
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post #191 of 2921 Old 06-24-2005, 06:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hondo21 View Post

Jerry, in your post #128 above, from last November, you said that your problems had been solved. No more flashes. Then the next post you make in June says you ordered a power supply board from Pioneer a month and a half ago. Did I miss something? Reading between the lines, does this mean that the problem reappeared on your previously repaired (resoldered) board?

I'm a new addition to the blue flash brightness problem club. My Elite 610 was bought new in late December 2000, not sure of the manufacture date right now. The blue flash/brightness problem first appeared last week, about 4.5 years later. I'm long out of warranty. I found this thread (and another at HT Spot) so am naturally reading everything posted above over the past year+ with interest. In my case, I've never had the power shutting off problem, at least yet.

I'm like a lot who have posted here. Don't want to give up on this set just yet because I really like it otherwise and don't really have the funds to upgrade to a comparable new TV. I need to decide if I can find somebody to do the soldering for a reasonable price, or try it myself (haven't soldered in years and never much or very well then), or break down and just buy the new PS board from Pioneer. So I'm interested to know if the re-soldering jobs aren't lasting very long.

At least I know not to bang my head against the wall with Pioneer...

Thanks for any input or updates.

Because I have extended phillips service, I had tech to change board. But other 36 elite owner first tried to solder joint if you want I can upload image of board. It's so easy. When You open back of TV, you see righthand side board where power supply go. Just tap lightly on white connector on toplofty corner on power supply board with screwdriver, You will get Blue Flash/spark.
Anyway, Just solder power supply board. Most of All projection problem due to bad solder joint.
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post #192 of 2921 Old 06-24-2005, 09:24 AM
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I've started google searching for Soldering Tips and How-to-Solder instructional material. There's some good stuff out there. I'm pretty busy at work right now, but as soon as I get the time I may just get the iron and solder and practice a little to see if I want to give it a go. Thanks.
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post #193 of 2921 Old 06-28-2005, 08:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pankaj2000 View Post

in 4 days, My TV was automatically shut-off randomly two times. but no blue flash or spark. I still do not under stand, in front of my eyes, Tech changed power supply board and TV is still doing shuts-off. Thank god there is no more blue flash........................

Since I unplug my TV from outlet about 4 hrs to reset memory, I never had automatic shut-off in three days over 12hr watching TV.

But Just in case I also running FAN befind TV to cool off TV.

Everything runs smooth over week.
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post #194 of 2921 Old 06-30-2005, 04:14 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hondo21 View Post

Jerry, in your post #128 above, from last November, you said that your problems had been solved. No more flashes. Then the next post you make in June says you ordered a power supply board from Pioneer a month and a half ago. Did I miss something? Reading between the lines, does this mean that the problem reappeared on your previously repaired (resoldered) board?

I'm a new addition to the blue flash brightness problem club. My Elite 610 was bought new in late December 2000, not sure of the manufacture date right now. The blue flash/brightness problem first appeared last week, about 4.5 years later. I'm long out of warranty. I found this thread (and another at HT Spot) so am naturally reading everything posted above over the past year+ with interest. In my case, I've never had the power shutting off problem, at least yet.

I'm like a lot who have posted here. Don't want to give up on this set just yet because I really like it otherwise and don't really have the funds to upgrade to a comparable new TV. I need to decide if I can find somebody to do the soldering for a reasonable price, or try it myself (haven't soldered in years and never much or very well then), or break down and just buy the new PS board from Pioneer. So I'm interested to know if the re-soldering jobs aren't lasting very long.

At least I know not to bang my head against the wall with Pioneer...

Thanks for any input or updates.


Hondo, you read between the lines correctly.

The service company that "repaired" my set (3rd one for the same problem) did fix it TEMPORARILY. However, I don't think they ever completely understood what I was asking them to do and evidently they did not do a good job because the flash did return.

My advice is ... if you feel competent enough to resolder the board yourself, do it. Can't beat the price. However, if that doesn't work, replacing the board yourself is cost effective. I spent considerably less buying and replacing the board myself than I paid that last service company to resolder it.

Since I replaced the board, my set has had no problems.

________________________________________
START RANT

Hindsight is 20/20. When I started this thread over a year ago, if I had known then what I know now I would have saved myself well over a thousand dollars on unnecessary service and botched repairs. I would have simply bought the board and replaced it myself (took me about half an hour). Total cost around $285.00 for the board, after you mail your old one back to them.

The problem I had back then was I TRUSTED Pioneer. I thought they would KNOW what kinds of problems their products were prone to and how to fix the sets. When they recommended a service company I thought they would only be sending me to COMPETENT, QUALIFIED service techs who could diagnose and fix the problem.

I WAS WRONG ON ALL COUNTS.

Their service companies evidently exist to squeeze as much money out of their victims, uh, I mean clients, as possible. They care little about whether or not they are actually finding and fixing the problem. It's much easier and more profitable to sell you unnecessary "adjustments" and "maintentance" than to actually fix the set. And god forbid they don't replace the whole thing, one board at a time, starting with the least likely board, until you have paid them to completely rebuild your set at a cost well above the original purchase price.

It's a SCAM.

Thanks Pioneer. You lost a good customer for life.

Nice marketing plan.

END RANT


DJ
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post #195 of 2921 Old 06-30-2005, 07:34 AM
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Thanks for the reply DJ.

I completely understand how frustrated this has made you. I'd feel the same way in your position. As it is, I haven't spent a dime yet, but I'm not happy with this problem, as it betrays a rather serious shortcoming in design of the "Elite" line. Such a high-end set should not fail on such an issue in a mere 4 years.

But even accepting that such a problem can happen, the response (or lack thereof) by Pioneer is what's most unacceptable. Seeing the posts here and elsewhere it is quite clear that this is a generic problem with the x10 Elite series. Yet, Pioneer does not acknowledge it as such. They should have investigated these problems when reported by multiple owners, concluded that it's a generic design flaw, issued a service bulletin, and offered a complimentary repair to appease their best customers, even though out of warranty. Such an approach would engender some loyalty on my part towards Pioneer, even given the design flaw. How a company responds to issues is much more important than the fact that they arise in the first place.

I'm not in a position to spearhead anything, but I'd be glad to join in any class-action litigation against Pioneer on this issue if somebody were to initiate it. Any lawyers here?

Thanks again to all for posting your experiences on this issue. It's a great help to others like me who now have the problem. At least I can direct my efforts to resolve it more efficiently (and inexpensively).

In my case, I'm seriously considering getting a few items at Radio Shack and trying the re-soldering approach myself first (after a little practice). I figure it can't hurt, as long as I'm careful not to mess anything else up. If that fails I will no doubt just order a new PS board. I don't plan to pay any service techs to touch it, if I can at all help it.

Ironically, the past few days the problem on my set has been happening a lot less frequently. But it still occurs a couple times a night (instead of dozens of times) and I know it's just a matter of time before it's worse again.
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post #196 of 2921 Old 06-30-2005, 08:24 AM
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Once a tech changed power supply board, after 10 days, MY TV automatically shuts-off every half hour....Just blank screen but green light stays on...... Do you guys know why?

Any suggestion will be appreciated.........
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post #197 of 2921 Old 06-30-2005, 11:19 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hondo21 View Post

Thanks for the reply DJ.

I completely understand how frustrated this has made you. I'd feel the same way in your position. As it is, I haven't spent a dime yet, but I'm not happy with this problem, as it betrays a rather serious shortcoming in design of the "Elite" line. Such a high-end set should not fail on such an issue in a mere 4 years.

But even accepting that such a problem can happen, the response (or lack thereof) by Pioneer is what's most unacceptable. ...

I'm not in a position to spearhead anything, but I'd be glad to join in any class-action litigation against Pioneer on this issue if somebody were to initiate it. Any lawyers here?

Hondo, once again you've hit the nail on the head.

I was actually told by a Pioneer Customer Service SUPERVISOR that, after owning the set for 5 years, I should expect to pay expensive repairs on high-end products like the Elite. Balderdash! I have a relatively inexpensive Toshiba 35" set that has not had a problem in 10 YEARS!

The customer service response (and I use the term customer service very loosely in regards to Pioneer) is completely unacceptable. Almost as unacceptable as the bumbling inability of their service companies, WHO WERE IN TELEPHONE CONTACT WITH PIONEER, to diagnose the problem, let alone come up with a solution.

My wife has urged me to find a Class Action lawyer. If there is anyone else on this forum who would like to become part of a class action suit, say so. I have a couple of lawyers that I'm considering contacting.

DJ
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post #198 of 2921 Old 06-30-2005, 11:53 AM
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I am with you in lawsuit. We will share everything wahtever comes or go
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post #199 of 2921 Old 06-30-2005, 12:02 PM
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I'm not surprised by Pioneers lack of response to this problem. I was one of the unlucky ones who bought the 700 5 years ago with the line doubler problem. It was a complete nightmare to try and get any help with this problem between Pioneer and the dealer where I bought the set. I took in a portable DVD player into my dealer to show him the problem and he still looked at me like I was crazy. After months of letters, calls I finally was able to get Pioneer to swap out my 700 with a 710 but at a cost of $1000. This made my investment into the set $9K because of their incompetence. There were many others who can tell you their horror stories with Pioneer with the 700HD.
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post #200 of 2921 Old 07-01-2005, 08:45 AM
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After 12 days, My TV has blue flase evenif Tech changed power supply board which is brand new. May be defective part................

And Blue Flash was about 30 seconds continous well, I have to open my TV in long week-end and solder power supply board myself..........

I do not understand this thing....TV is going MAD or I am going MAD

EDIT: This week-end I opened my TV again but Tech did not change power supply board. He did change something else..
Anyway, To re-solder power supply board is way to go...
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post #201 of 2921 Old 07-07-2005, 03:26 PM
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I have used my 510 as my rec room television for watching late night television and movies for the past 5 or 6 years. I was surprised a few weeks ago, when I started to experience the blue flash. Mainly I was surprised because this set is only on for a few hours per day, and I really would not have expected to have problems. I assumed that it was the Blue CRT and the set was on its last legs (not worth any substantial investment to repair given the cost of new units), but I came accross this forum and noted this thread. I will try to execute the repair, and if that doesn't work then try replacing the board. It produces a great picture and I hope I can keep it working for at least a few more years.
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post #202 of 2921 Old 07-12-2005, 03:28 AM
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Pioneer has had cold solder joint problems that cause shutdown for years, ever since the SDP line of SD units. I have repaired many of them, and almost without exception they always come down to cold solder joints.

"Cold solder joint protocol", as I call it, means going to any solder conn's that have a "halo" around the leg where it meets the pad. One of the worst I ever saw was in a ceiling pj, where the pad was very big - off the flyback - and the halo was enough to almost see thru, a chasm! Very obvious.

This can most easily be seen by holding your flashlight such that you are viewing the solder connection dead on, but with the light hitting it from the side.

Some cold solder joints are invisible to the naked eye, even to a microscope. Only intuition and experience can help you there. They look perfectly good, but can be completely disco'd. Rare, but true.

Then resolder, using good "solder technique". Which means making sure there is enough flux to keep the solder joint gleaming and glossy, refreshing any "dried out" connections. Just touching the joint lightly with your solder will usually lend it enough flux to do the job, without having to add too much solder in the process.

Temperature of your soldering iron tip is important. Keep a sponge handy to wipe your soldering iron tip on, both to clean it and get it gleaming again, and to control the temp, which can easily go into overrun just by sitting there unused. Dragging it across the sponge will cool it to just the right temp when done right.

Look for raised resistors - raised off the board for the purpose of dissipating heat, sometimes with a hole in the board beneath them. To see if they are cold soldered, move them from above the board, and see if the leg moves underneath the board. If so, it is probably a weak joint and should be resoldered. If not, it is tight and secure and probably does not need any further attention.

Anything with a heat sink could cause cold solder joints, just from the expansion and contraction of heat up and cool down. This is especially prevalent in today's convergence ICs, which run ungodly hot in there.

Be very careful of solder bridges, make sure your lighting is very very good. If you unknowingly short 2 legs together by being just a bit sloppy, the results could be devastating to your set. Use a flashlight and view everything you have soldered from several different angles, and if still questionable, from above, THROUGH the board from the top, observing from the bottom where the light shines thru from the top.


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post #203 of 2921 Old 07-12-2005, 11:21 AM
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you have a 38th set doing this on this thread now...I purchased my 710 in may 2000..hey the extended warrenty just ended and bam, the blue flash and brightness issue, exactly as the fella's video showed within this thread...So nice to know that I can try and mess with this or buy a new board. Very informative thread, thanks all who participate....
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post #204 of 2921 Old 07-18-2005, 02:07 PM
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I just had a tech out to re-solder bad joints on my power supply. He downloaded some "tech tips" from someplace. Thought they might be useful to you folks.

______________________________________________________

Symptom: Picture is "washed out" and pale looking.
Cure: Replace Signal assy.
Models Covered: PRO510HD, PRO610HD, PRO710HD
Tip Date: December 07 2004
The Tech Name: Jeff Andrews

Symptom: Picture goes dim and flashes blue.
Cure: Resolder connections at IC204 on Power Supply Assy. (5V
regulator).
Models Covered: PRO510HD, PRO610HD, PRO710HD
Tip Date: November 16 2004
The Tech Name: Jeff Andrews

Symptom: Intermittently no video or OSD, video flicker or
brightness changes, and may also hear a load pop noise. Audio
and High Voltage are ok.
Cure: Check solder on pin 13 of connector CN203 (E3) on the
Power Supply board. This is 12v supply to the Video board.
Models Covered: PRO510HD, PRO520HD, PRO610HD, PRO620HD,
PRO710HD, PRO720HD, SD532HD5, SD582HD5
Tip Date: August 25 2004
The Tech Name: Bruce Phillips

Symptom: Picture OK in center but too red, too blue, or too
green around the edges and corners.
Cure: Recolder ground connections on CRT drive boards.
Models Covered: PRO510HD, PRO610HD, PRO710HD
Tip Date: April 30 2003
The Tech Name: Jeff Andrews

Symptom: Intermittantly blows CPU
Cure: Solder bridge on Power Supply Assy - J109 & J110
Models Covered: PRO510HD, PRO610HD, PRO710HD
Tip Date: April 30 2003
The Tech Name: Jeff Andrews

Symptom: Picture dark and slightly greenish.
Cure: Replace Video Assy.
Models Covered: PRO510HD, PRO-610HD, PRO710HD
Tip Date: December 20 2002
The Tech Name: Jeff Andrews

Symptom: set shuts down when selecting input 1, 3 or 4.
Cure: Replace defective Signal Assy. AWV1800 or AWV1866
depending on serial number. Use AWV1800 for serial numbers
beginning with ****0 and AWV1866 for serial numbers beginning
with ****1.
Models Covered: PRO510HD, PRO610HD, PRO710HD
Tip Date: August 20 2002
The Tech Name: Jeff Andrews

Symptom: No video (RGB input only).
Cure: Replace digital convergence assy. Don't forget to swap
EEPROM. This symptom is caused by a problem with the BLANK 2
signal.
Models Covered: PRO510HD, PRO610HD, PRO710HD, SD532HD5,
SD583HD5
Tip Date: May 23 2002
The Tech Name: Jeff Andrews

Symptom: Picture has horizontal pin appearance (concave on
sides) but raster acutally extends to edge of screen with too
much overscan. Picture is shifted to the left.
Cure: Replace defective sub video assy.
Models Covered: PRO510, PRO510HD, PRO610HD, PRO710HD
Tip Date: May 07 2002
The Tech Name: Jeff Andrews

Symptom: PD shutdown occurs. LED indicates vetical failure.
Replacing the convergence amp or digital convergence assy does
not help.
Cure: Replace power supply.
Models Covered: PRO510HD, PRO610HD, PRO710HD
Tip Date: May 07 2002
The Tech Name: Jeff Andrews

Symptom: Picture is scrambled. Looks like hor. sync is missing
on all inputs, including tuner, with the exception of the
"component" inputs. OSD looks ok. Monitor out signal also
looks fine.
Cure: Defective Signal Assy. (AWV1800 for early type, AWV1866
for VA type)
Models Covered: PRO510HD, PRO610HD, PRO710HD
Tip Date: April 22 2002
The Tech Name: Tony Perkins

Symptom: Set shuts down (convergence amp PD indication) or has
poor convergence on one color that can not be adjusted.
Cure: Check for poor or missing solder on G1, G2 and G3
connectors on the Convergence Amp Assy.
Models Covered: PRO510, PRO510HD, PRO610HD, PRO710HD,
SD532HD5, SD583HD5
Tip Date: April 02 2002
The Tech Name: Jeff Andrews

Symptom: Powers up immediately when AC is applied. No
functions work, no picture, no sound. Power LED stays green
and unit will not shut off.
Cure: Found defective video assembly (AWV1799).
Models Covered: PRO510HD
Tip Date: February 20 2002
The Tech Name: Tony Perkins

Symptom: Makes popping sound when changing channels.
Cure: Replace Audio assy.(AWZ6472)
Models Covered: PRO510HD, PRO610HD, PRO710HD
Tip Date: February 14 2002
The Tech Name: Alan Sasaki

Symptom: Shuts down. Convergenc PD LED on.
Cure: Found R922 (5.6K, 1Watt) open.
Models Covered: PRO510HD, PRO610HD, PRO710HD, SD532HD5,
SD582HD5
Tip Date: February 13 2002
The Tech Name: Alan Sasaki

Symptom: Each time the set is turned on, the Full and 4x3
convergence is bad. If you cycle through the different screen
modes and come back to Full or 4x3, the convergence will
correct itself.
Cure: Change the Digital Convergence Board. Remember to swap
the memory IC. It was not defective.
Models Covered: PRO510HD, PRO610HD, PRO710HD, SD532HD5,
SD582HD5
Tip Date: February 08 2002
The Tech Name: Bernie Shelton

Symptom: Set is on for 10 min. then a loud "snap" is heard and
the set goes into shutdown.
Cure: Found fractured solder connections on T101, switching
transformer. Resoldered and restored normal operation.
Models Covered: PRO510HD, PRO520HD, PRO610HD, PRO620HD,
PRO710HD, PRO720HD
Tip Date: January 30 2002
The Tech Name: Tony Perkins

Symptom: Intermittent red horz linearity shift on Cinema Wide
and HD screen modes.
Cure: Replaced Digital Convergence assy (AWZ6460/AWZ6461) and
swapped eeproms.
Models Covered: PRO510HD, PRO610HD, PRO710HD, SD532HD5,
SD582HD5
Tip Date: January 21 2002
The Tech Name: Alan Sasaki

Symptom: No video or on-screen, and the raster was bowed in on
both sides. Confirmed bowing by turning up the green screen
control.
Cure: Found defective video assy ( PRO***: AWV1799, SD***:
AWV1804 )
Models Covered: PRO510HD, PRO610HD, SD532HD, SD582HD
Tip Date: November 16 2001
The Tech Name: Tony Perkins

Symptom: Symptom: Picture flashes green until warm up, then
picture turns green. Crt and crt drive have been replaced.
Cure: Cure: Replace Video Assy ( AWV1799)
Models Covered: PRO510, PRO510, PRO710
Tip Date: November 05 2001
The Tech Name: Mike LaRocco

Symptom: Set is in shutdown mode. Diagnostic LEDs indicate a
problem in the vertical circuit.
Cure: Replace defective C909 or C911 on Convergence Amp. assy.
Models Covered: PRO510HD, PRO610HD, PRO710HD, SD532HD5,
SD582HD5
Tip Date: October 04 2001
The Tech Name: Jeff Andrews

Symptom: Green flashes in the picture on all inputs except
component. Changed every board in the video path and unit
still had the problem.
Cure: Found bad EEPROM, IC2454, 24LC32A(I)P, on the Signal
PCB. Tech. transferred the old EEPROM to the new board and
consequently transferred the problem. {For future reference:
This EEPROM doesn't need to be forwarded to the new board. It
only stores customer settings.}
Models Covered: PRO510HD
Tip Date: July 12 2001
The Tech Name: Tony Perkins

Symptom: Composite input doesnt work. Component input OK
Cure: Found defective AV I/O Assy (Elite: AWV1802 or Regular:
AWV1807).
Models Covered: PRO510HD, PRO610HD, PRO710HD, SD532HD5,
SD582HD5
Tip Date: June 28 2001
The Tech Name: Alan Sasaki

Symptom: Symptom: Yellow blotch in upper right corner
Cure: Cure: Mirror shifted in mirror case. Move mirror to
proper location.
Models Covered: PRO510HD, PRO610HD, PRO710HD, SD532HD5,
SD582HD5
Tip Date: June 18 2001
The Tech Name: Mike LaRocco

Symptom: Picture has 2 lines ea. at top & bottom, 1/3 in from
sides; 10" x 1/8" with dashes. More noticable on dark
background.
Cure: Replace sub video.
Models Covered: PRO510, PRO610, PRO710, SD532, SD582
Tip Date: June 06 2001
The Tech Name: Bob Shoemaker

Symptom: No picture, No OSD.
Cure: Found Sub Video Assy defective.
Models Covered: PRO510HD, PRO610HD, PRO710HD, SD532HD5,
SD582HD5
Tip Date: May 23 2001
The Tech Name: Alan Sasaki

Symptom: Buzzing noise from power supply during high contrast
scenes.
Cure: Normal noise from the switching power supply transformer.
Models Covered: PRO510HD, PRO610HD, PRO710HD, SD532HD5,
SD582HD5
Tip Date: May 14 2001
The Tech Name: Alan Sasaki

Symptom: No sound from speakers and audio output jack.
Cure: Found 12v missing on AV I/O Assy (AWV1807 or AWV1802).
Cause: Pin 26 (12v) was corroded on the Video Assy (AWV1804 or
AWV1799)
Models Covered: PRO510HD, PRO610HD, PRO710HD, SD532HD5,
SD582HD5
Tip Date: May 07 2001
The Tech Name: Alan Sasaki

Symptom: Will not go into AUTO PRESET START after going into
factory adjustment mode.
Cure: Reset the TV using MAIN POWER switch.
Models Covered: PRO510HD, PRO610HD, PRO710HD, SD532HD5,
SD582HD5
Tip Date: March 14 2001
The Tech Name: Alan Sasaki

Symptom: Wavy horizontal black and colored lines throughout
picture.
Cure: Found Digital Convergence (AWZ6460) defective.
Models Covered: PRO510HD, PRO610HD, PRO710HD, SD532HD5,
SD582HD5
Tip Date: March 14 2001
The Tech Name: Alan Sasaki

Symptom: Snowy picture on RF input.
Cure: Defective RF switch assy. (AWF1088).
Models Covered: PRO510HD, PRO610HD, SD532HD5, SD582HD5
Tip Date: January 12 2001
The Tech Name: Tony Perkins

Symptom: Set seems to have differentPCBs or different
convergence offset data from the information shown in the
service manual.
Cure: There are 2 versions fo these models. If serial number
begins with ****0, useservice manuals ARP3051 and ARP3047. If
serial number begins with ****1, use ARP3086 along with
ARP3051 and ARP3047. PCB assys are not interchangable! See
page 2 of ARP3086 for more info.
Models Covered: PRO510HD, PRO710HD, PRP610HD, SD532HD5,
SD582HD5
Tip Date: January 08 2001
The Tech Name: Jeff Andrews

Symptom: Horizontal centering is shifted to the right when
used with RCA DTC-100 satellite receiver. Dark vertical line
appears on the left side of the screen.
Cure: This RCA receiver outputs non-standard video signals.
Using the TV's service mode, adjust horizontal phase for 33MHz
to re-center the picture. However, the picture may then be
offset for other HD sources. Some DTC-100 units now have a new
menu that allows the customer to change the retrace timing.
Menu - #8 - There you can find various monitor settings
including retrace timing, picture centering and more.
Models Covered: PRO510HD, PRO610HD, PRO710HD, SD532HD5,
SD582HD5
Tip Date: September 27 2000
The Tech Name: Jeff Andrews

Symptom: Convergence is very bad in full and 4:3 mode when you
first turn on the set. If you step through screen modes and
come back to full or 4:3, it is immediately OK. If you turn on
the set in any mode except full or 4:3, it is OK.
Cure: Change "Digital Convergence Assy" AWZ6460. Remember to
swap both EPROMS, IC1410 and IC1656. The set should need only
very minor touchup of convergence.
Models Covered: PRO510HD, PRO610HD, SD532HD5, SD582HD5
Tip Date: September 22 2000
The Tech Name: Bernie Shelton

Symptom: Shuts down. D321 LED turns on.
Cure: Defective RED CRT drive IC (TDA6120Q). Check deflection
assy Q612 (2SC5043) shorted and R634 (10 ohm) burnt.
Models Covered: PRO510HD, PRO610HD, PRO710HD
Tip Date: July 17 2000
The Tech Name: Alan Sasaki

Symptom: Blue will not move horizontally but vertically OK.
Cure: Found defective Digital Convergence Assy (AWZ6460).
Models Covered: PRO510HD, PRO610HD, PRO710HD
Tip Date: July 13 2000
The Tech Name: Alan Sasaki

Symptom: Multiple short scan lines in picture. Also in menus.
OK after 15 minute warm-up.
Cure: C226 on Power Supply Assembly. (Location B7, page 113.)
It is a filter in the 9V supply.
Models Covered: PRO510HD, PRO610HD, SD532HD5, SD582HD5
Tip Date: June 28 2000
The Tech Name: Bernie Shelton

Symptom: Difficulty adjusting and saving "HD FULL" or other
33KHz settings in service mode (including convergence)
Cure: Service mode requires proper source to be connected to
INPUT1. See page 206 in the service manual, step 2. USE INPUT
1 ONLY! If adjusting for RCA satellite receiver (DTC-100), you
must have a 1080i input source connected to input 1. Use an HD
signal generator or RGB to component converter. Contact your
OTS for more info. Also check SI bulletin for pincushion fix
and mod.
Models Covered: PRO510, PRO610, PRO710, SD532HD5, SD582HD5
Tip Date: June 27 2000
The Tech Name: Jeff Andrews

Symptom: Horizontal line appears across the screen.
Cure: Electricity charged in high voltage section jumps into
IP BLOCK on the SUB-VIDEO Assy. This causes the PLL circuit to
unlock. Change a resistor and add a capacitor and possibly
re-adjust H Phase. R3270 (470 ohm) RD1/4PM471J and Capacitor
(2200pf) CKSRB222K50.
Models Covered: PRO510HD, PRO610HD
Tip Date: April 25 2000
The Tech Name: Alan Sasaki

Symptom: One color out. If adj. screen, others cut off.
Cure: Replace drive IC, TDA6120Q or Assy.
Models Covered: PRO510, PRO610, PRO710, SD582, SD583
Tip Date: April 14 2000
The Tech Name: Bob Shoemaker

Symptom: Horizontal pin cusion in all or some screen modes.
Cure: Replace defective deflection assy. (AWV1809) Or see SI.
Models Covered: PRO510HD, PRO610HD, SD532HD5, SD582HD5
Tip Date: February 07 2000
The Tech Name: Alan Sasaki

Symptom: Remote control sensor doesn't seem to work. Buttons
on the front panel works.
Cure: Found poor crimping on connector near T12 (Signal Assy.)
Models Covered: PRO510HD, PRO610HD, SD532HD5, SD582HD5
Tip Date: January 25 2000
The Tech Name: Alan Sasaki

Symptom: No Power or Intermittent operation, then no power
Cure: Resolder regulator ICs 5601 and 5602 on video assy
(AWV1799)
Models Covered: PRO510, PRO610
Tip Date: November 23 1999
The Tech Name: Jeff Andrews
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post #205 of 2921 Old 07-19-2005, 06:26 AM
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WOW!

Wish I had this kind of resourcing for all my repairs! At first I thought it would all be resoldering cold solder joints, and yes that accounted for many of the repairs. But as I read on I saw that there is a lot more there than just that.

Am saving for future reference.

BTW, swapping EEproms when you need to replace a board is the best way to retain all the work done up to this point on your geometry and convergence. They are the memory ICs, containing all your g & c work. Knowing just where they are on the board is the trick, and hopefully they will not be many-legged SMDs - surface mounted devices - which can be a real pain to unsolder.

Thank you Les!


Mr Bob

Robert Jones
Image Perfection
510-278-4247
650-333-4808 cell
bob at imageperfection dot com
www.projectiontvtroubleshootingadvice.com
YouTube channel: mrbobbigscreen

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post #206 of 2921 Old 07-19-2005, 11:14 AM
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Very nice, Les. I can see two of these problems that fit perfectly on my 5 year old 510. My solution was to buy a plasma.

Symptom: Picture dark and slightly greenish.
Cure: Replace Video Assy.
Models Covered: PRO510HD, PRO-610HD, PRO710HD
Tip Date: December 20 2002
The Tech Name: Jeff Andrews

Symptom: Set shuts down (convergence amp PD indication) or has
poor convergence on one color that can not be adjusted.
Cure: Check for poor or missing solder on G1, G2 and G3
connectors on the Convergence Amp Assy.
Models Covered: PRO510, PRO510HD, PRO610HD, PRO710HD,
SD532HD5, SD583HD5
Tip Date: April 02 2002
The Tech Name: Jeff Andrews
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post #207 of 2921 Old 07-21-2005, 12:54 PM
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Tech came today and fixed the power board which was causing the set to shut down. He also ajusted the convergence in the service mode for HD. Years ago when the set was originally calibrated the tech was not able to enter into the service mode for HD because I had an RGB connection rather than component. Today, I switched to component so he could enter the HD service mode. The tech suggested leaving the component input. I had always thought the RGB was the better way. I noticed now I can ajust color levels where you can't on the RGB connection. Opinions as to the best connection for HD, RGB or component. My set is the 610. Thanks
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post #208 of 2921 Old 07-21-2005, 01:09 PM
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I tried both RGB and components on my HD610 but component was brighter and colorfull. I would stay with component
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post #209 of 2921 Old 07-26-2005, 04:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djguy View Post

Hondo, once again you've hit the nail on the head.

I was actually told by a Pioneer Customer Service SUPERVISOR that, after owning the set for 5 years, I should expect to pay expensive repairs on high-end products like the Elite. Balderdash! I have a relatively inexpensive Toshiba 35" set that has not had a problem in 10 YEARS!

The customer service response (and I use the term customer service very loosely in regards to Pioneer) is completely unacceptable. Almost as unacceptable as the bumbling inability of their service companies, WHO WERE IN TELEPHONE CONTACT WITH PIONEER, to diagnose the problem, let alone come up with a solution.

My wife has urged me to find a Class Action lawyer. If there is anyone else on this forum who would like to become part of a class action suit, say so. I have a couple of lawyers that I'm considering contacting.

DJ

Djguy, my Pro-710 has begun exhibiting this problem (lightening, then darkening, over and over again) this past week. I got it in 2000, when I was part of the "Pro-700 for Pro-710 trade-in for $1000" group. I'd be interested in being part of such a suit.

-Brett
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post #210 of 2921 Old 07-31-2005, 11:06 PM
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I was going to live with the blue flash for awhile,while considering whether to replace the board or attempt to execute the repair. I don't have much experience soldering, so I was somewhat reluctant. However, the set starting shutting off rather frequently, so this weekend I elected to attempt the repair. A few tips for those considering the repair. Many of the connections are extremely small and close together. It is a necessity that you have a wet sponge and an exacto knife in order to be as precise as possible. It is also important when you remove the board to use a screwdriver that has been magnetized as those small screws holding in the board are very small and tough to find when they get away.

I found removal to be tedious, but fairly straight forward. I did not test the board for bad spots with the power on, as I have already had some extremely bad experiences with electricity. I removed the board (power board previously identified as the verticle board on the bottom right of the television), which consists of simply removing all of the connections that plug in and then all of the screws. As I mentioned the screws are very small and fall through the air holes in the frame when you drop them, so be prepared to move the television around and search for a dozen of those little screws.

You have to move all of the harnesses out of the way, and then the board pulls out quite easily. I was extremely careful in transporting the board, given that it has many heavy pieces mounted to it making it pretty flimsy.

I purchased a soldering kit that stated that it was specifically designed for working with small electronics, and I had two exacto knives handy. I also purchased some very thin solder at the hardware store that stated it was designed for use in small electronics. The total cost for all items was nominal. It was very thin, and ideal for re-soldering the joints. It was also very easy to work with, because only a very, very small drop of solder would be produced.

Originally, I was only going to resolder those points corresponding to the connectors, but once I got going -I ended up re-soldering almost the entire board. It took a couple of hours, but once you get a system going it was fairly simple.

I always approached with the solder from the direction that was the opposite of the closest connection. Some of these points are extremely close together and you have to be very careful that the two points don't inadvertantly end up connecected.

As I was going, I used the exacto knife to make sure that there was complete separation of any two close points. Anywhere that looked even remotely too close, I was able to reheat and use the exacto knife to ensure that there were no inadvertant connections.

It took 2 hours or so just to solder all of the points. I originally did not intend to, but there were 2 or 3 different areas that looked suspect , especially those areas around E5 and C204 (someone had previously stated that E3, 202 and 204 were the worst for them-for me it was E5 and 204). Additionally, there were a few other points scattered around the board that looked suspect, so in the end I ended up doing most, if not all of the board.

After it had cooled for awhile, I went back with the iron and the exacto knife to make sure there weren't any areas that might be too close. I feared that I might have touched something when I was working on a subsequent area, or that something might have shifted while it was drying.

I then reassembled the television, and left it on for 48 hours. I have yet to see the blue flash nor have I had the television shut off.

Tremendous success, and I sincerely wish to thank everyone who has contributed to this thread. Not only is the television functioning without the shutoffs and without the blue flash and loss of contrast, but the picture is the best that it has looked in years. I must have had the loss of contrast far longer than I thought, as the picture looks fantastic.

It may sound like a daunting task, but with some patience and precision it can be done. I would love to keep this set working for many more years.
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