Mitsubishi WD XX725 owners thread - Page 193 - AVS Forum
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post #5761 of 7433 Old 07-16-2008, 02:03 PM
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Originally Posted by cjut01 View Post

WD-62725 owner here, no problems for 3 1/2 years (replaced bulb 15 months ago) but now have the dreaded "BGLOD".

I was relieved to find that I did, in fact, get the 5 year warranty (It's a 3rd party via Tweeter called "The Warranty Group"). We are waiting for the call to set up the first service appointment.

Does anyone have experience with these guys? I know I may be in for a long ride, and my hope is that they will do the math and get me a buy-out sooner rather than later. I'd hate to have the same experience as many folks here, and I wonder if different warranty companies behave differently (i.e. Mack vs these guys).

I have boned up on all the issues with the caps, modules, chassis, etc. so I hope the technician will give me reasonable feedback.

I will give follow-up as I get it so that others can benefit if possible. Now do I stick my 26" Sharp Aquos in the den and watch it with binoculars for the next 3 months? I guess there are worse problems in life (like no warranty!), but if this screws with the start of the football season or the Red Sox in the WS I am going to be pissed!

Update #1: Worked from home to meet with the repair guys. They are evidently a Mits. authorized service provider, they were recommended by the Warranty Group. I knew I was in trouble when they marched in with a replacement bulb. OK, fine, try the bulb, but they were not at all clued in on the Mits or it's errors. It was a father and son, and evidently they knew NOTHING about the issue, and all they did was try to replace the blub and then they essentially gave up and called their office. I insisted on speaking to the service manager (or whomever they were talking to), I explained my understanding of the issue, what others were seeing, and I asked them if they could pull the chassis and look at the boards, etc. She said they would need to bring it into the shop, they "didn't have room for it today" (i.e. on their bench) but they are authorized, they have all the service information, blah, blah, but I suspect this will be their first ever BGLOD fix.

To the other victims out there-- is this usual, i.e. to suffer through uninformed service technicians, and, to pull the set out completely, or have you had successful visits in your home (and, say, worst case, they pull the chassis, leave your set, etc.)

Looking at these guys, I honestly believe once the set goes out the door, I will never see it again. Which may eventually be a good thing since it's a warranty unit-- but if by some miracle it does come back, I'm thinking it will be a cold day in hell until it works reliably.

I know I can call the Warranty Company and request another service center, but should I be quizzing the service center to see what experience they have with this issue? Should I just say goodbye to the set and hope for the best?
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post #5762 of 7433 Old 07-18-2008, 03:19 PM
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I have the BGLOD on my WD-52525, which can be reset after an extended power off, and the set fails usually within an hour of reset. The set is under extended warranty. The technician ordered a replacement for both the FMT and DM boards (as expected). I just got word that the parts from Mitsubishi are on backorder until late August, and the parts were ordered early July. The shop is now going to the GE Warranty to see if I can get a replacement set. I'm hoping that given the known issues with this series, that I will get met at least half way, and get something I can use for a new, non-Mitsu LCD.
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post #5763 of 7433 Old 07-19-2008, 11:53 AM
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Replaced the bulb in a 52825 with wavey line issue in all but OTA and HDMI input. Power up and red bulb light comes on and no picture. Reseat the lamp a couple times and same thing. Put original lamp back in which was working at time of removal and get same red light.
Is there something that can come loose in back of the lamp socket when replacing?
I also had the screen off to clean mirror (which was filthy). Anything in there that could cause it?
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post #5764 of 7433 Old 07-19-2008, 04:05 PM
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yes, there have been several reports of the lamps rear power socket connector coming loose so when you push the lamp back in it will not connect. Then owners having to go in through the rear of the set to reseat the connector and push the lamp module back into to seat it properly into the power connection socket.

HD HD HD I Need more HD, Yes I am a HD Addict :)
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post #5765 of 7433 Old 07-19-2008, 07:13 PM
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That is exactly the problem I had. Small "tangs" on the clip let loose and wouldn't allow contact.
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post #5766 of 7433 Old 07-21-2008, 12:26 PM
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Hello,

Just seeing if anyone has had or seen this problem before, after clicking the power button, the tv just switches to a sollid red status light. When pushing device and menu buttons the error code is 44 which is for a DVI cable problem? Which board would this relate to?

Thanks alot
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post #5767 of 7433 Old 07-23-2008, 03:46 AM
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I bought my wd52525 off ebay back in feb 2008, havent had any of your problems yet. But I did run into an unfortunate event that I need a little help with. My tv was perfect until one day a storm came in. I use my pc port on the back of the tv and it is connected with my desktop pc and audio too. The tv was off but the computer was on. Sometime during the storm I think surge happened, but its strange, the computer monitor works perfect, and I tested all of the cables i use. Which is the splitter and the vga cables one to tv and one to pc monitor. They work fine with the pc. When I tried to use the pc device on the tv I got a horizontally disfigured picture of my computer screen on the tv and the screen on the computer would flip vertically like crazy. If I unhooked from the tv the monitor would go back to its perfect lcd screen. Then I tried it again and now the tv will not recognize that i am using the pc on it, it gives me a ble screen and a saying of no signal input and it will shut down in one minute, meanwhile if its hooked up to the tv the pc screen flips until unhooked. Now if I switch to a different input such as Wii, DTV or DVD player it is perfect picture and sound. So the only problem is with the pc part, no sound no picture just blue screen. Did it just burn out some caps or did it fry my pc board? Thanks to any replies.
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post #5768 of 7433 Old 07-23-2008, 11:16 AM
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Can some post pages from the service manual on how to get teh DM Board, Power... etc out of my WD-62725. I want to replace the caps that im sure are blown.

Regards,
Eric
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post #5769 of 7433 Old 07-24-2008, 04:04 PM
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Quick question about the wavy line issue:

Do they typically run from the upper left corner of the screen to the lower right?

I am seeing lines like this on 480i sources over component (on my DVD player for instance). If I switch the DVD player to progressive scan mode, the lines go away for the most part.

I can see them on my Tivo S3 also, when it it set to 480i output resolution (on a different input). The thing is I don't normally watch anything in 480i.

I would like to get BB to fix the problem, but I am afraid they will just tell me to watch in 480p or higher resolution.

Do you think I have a valid case to get them out to look at the TV while I still have a few weeks left on my warranty?
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post #5770 of 7433 Old 07-24-2008, 07:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spiff72 View Post

Quick question about the wavy line issue:

Do they typically run from the upper left corner of the screen to the lower right?

I am seeing lines like this on 480i sources over component (on my DVD player for instance). If I switch the DVD player to progressive scan mode, the lines go away for the most part.

I can see them on my Tivo S3 also, when it it set to 480i output resolution (on a different input). The thing is I don't normally watch anything in 480i.

I would like to get BB to fix the problem, but I am afraid they will just tell me to watch in 480p or higher resolution.

Do you think I have a valid case to get them out to look at the TV while I still have a few weeks left on my warranty?

I don't think there is any particular threshold below which they can refuse a visit for your TV. Worst case, they come, if they blow you off this close to the end of the warranty, you have a case if things get worse. Best case maybe they can address it. Since I have the BGLOD issue my problem is really unrelated but just my 2c based upon gearing up for a battle with the Warranty Co. I said goodbye to my set today. It was hauled away with a cheery "It will be fixed in 2 weeks, give us a call" to my wife. Interesting in that they have not even looked inside. But by george, it will be fixed.
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post #5771 of 7433 Old 07-24-2008, 08:14 PM
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New update

The total is $1300 + and Mits will pay half.

I guess we are going to go ahead and get it fixed.

This is LE and DM board. The Caps are already swapped and the bulb is new.

If this does not work I am not sure what will happen but I hate to send it to the dump.
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post #5772 of 7433 Old 07-25-2008, 07:29 AM
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$650 would go a long way toward a new flat screen LCD or plasma TV.
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post #5773 of 7433 Old 07-25-2008, 01:43 PM
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I know but I am already in for caps, new bulb and Diag fee.

It was close to going to the dump.

I gave up on it when it died in November and got the Sony 3000.

Looks like my 2 yer old gets a big DLP
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post #5774 of 7433 Old 07-26-2008, 07:47 AM
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Has anyone had the problem of after a couple of hours on the picture starts to jump up in the blink of an eye and progressively gets to jump more often like from one per minute to one every second. Teh picture is perfect, but this jump or blink is very annoying. It only happens after watching for a few hours and after turning off for a while it repeats the next timne the set is turned on, that is it always takes a few hours before the problem happens.
Thanks
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post #5775 of 7433 Old 07-31-2008, 09:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 10ecvol View Post

Well, after reading all the messages, I thought I would chime in. I bought my 52725 in '04 and back in July '07 I noticed wavy lines when I watched any analog input. I called my warranty company, Warrantech, and they called a repair shop in my area. He came out the first time, and said I needed a new chassis and he would order one. The next time he came out, he said Mitsu required him to check the caps first, so he did that. He found nothing unusual, ordered chassis #1 and I waited. He came and installed the new one (refurbished, according to the forum), but the tv wouldn't even come on. He took it out, put the old one back in and told me he would order another one. He finally came out again this week and put in chassis #2, but the wavy lines are still there and now I have flickering pixels. I also noticed my geometry is way off, the center of the screen is an inch too low. So, now I am waiting for the service guy to come out again to probably order another chassis. I don't know how much longer I can take this. I called Warrantech and explained to them how long it has been, only 7 months, and I still see no result, in fact, the problem is now worse. To make matters worse, I live in Iowa and the tech can only come out on Thursdays. Arghhhh! Well, I will keep you all updated, to say the least.

Well, I wanted to update from my previous post. Needless to say, the television is still not repaired. A few months ago, the tech came to my house and he was told by Mitsu to replace the DVI cable (the one inside the tv). I knew that would not work, since it doesn't happen when using the digital inputs. Soon after I never heard from the repairman again, so I called him and he told me he had no clue how to fix the set. I had to call the warranty company to complain, so they called the repair shop to do another repair. He called a week or so ago and told me Mitsu had a paper out that some of the diodes are bad and he needed to replace them, but he needed to pick up the set. So, since last Tuesday they have the set and are supposedly repairing it, but I am quite skeptical, since I don't think they have a clue how to repair it. The warranty company will not let me go to another shop because the shop has not admitted defeat. So, we are at a year since all this started and the set is not any better.

Tune in next time.
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post #5776 of 7433 Old 08-01-2008, 01:53 PM
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Update #2: I first posted about my BGLOD issue (Mits 62725) back 3 weeks ago, I took the repair guys a week from the initial visit to actually pick it up, and now it's been with them a week. They said "it's on their bench and they are working on it" but could give me no other information. As I said in my prior post, I don't think I will ever see it again, because even though these guys do warranty service and are Mits. authorized, they've never seen this problem and they can't even have a basic conversation with me. I am going to call for an update on Monday (their suggestion) and if I get no more than "we're working on it", I'm going to blow my capacitors! I'm going to try to talk to someone that is actually working on the set and see what they have found out.

I know that the warranty company's job is to fix the set as cheaply as possible, and minimize their outlay. But I'm sure they're getting charged by the hour by the repair shop; that can't be cheap, neither will the replacement parts. At what point can I call the warranty company and talk to them about the situation? Is 2 weeks with no feedback (i.e. nature of problem, parts on order, etc) too soon? How long have people waited to discuss buyout or replacement? Months of frustration?
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post #5777 of 7433 Old 08-01-2008, 05:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cjut01 View Post

Update #2: I first posted about my BGLOD issue (Mits 62725) back 3 weeks ago, it took the repair guys a week from the initial visit to actually pick it up, and now it's been with them a week. They said "it's on their bench and they are working on it" but could give me no other information. As I said in my prior post, I don't think I will ever see it again, because even though these guys do warranty service and are Mits. authorized, they've never seen this problem and they can't even have a basic conversation with me. I am going to call for an update on Monday (their suggestion) and if I get no more than "we're working on it", I'm going to blow my capacitors! I'm going to try to talk to someone that is actually working on the set and see what they have found out.

I know that the warranty company's job is to fix the set as cheaply as possible, and minimize their outlay. But I'm sure they're getting charged by the hour by the repair shop; that can't be cheap, neither will the replacement parts. At what point can I call the warranty company and talk to them about the situation? Is 2 weeks with no feedback (i.e. nature of problem, parts on order, etc) too soon? How long have people waited to discuss buyout or replacement? Months of frustration?

I avoid these extended warranties just for this reason (both expense and frustration). If the component is going to go bad, it usually does within the included warranty. If feel for your pain, but I just prefer to take the chance on not getting the warranty (probably the majority as well).

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post #5778 of 7433 Old 08-11-2008, 01:24 PM
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ok avs crash everything lost between 8/1-8/11. if needed plese repost all your help/problems with the mits dlp.......

HD HD HD I Need more HD, Yes I am a HD Addict :)
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post #5779 of 7433 Old 08-12-2008, 10:33 AM
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My WD52525 has been turning itself off lately while I am watching tv. When I turn back on, it asks if I replaced the bulb. A couple of times I even had to unplug it and plug back in for it to work. Any one else experience these issues? I have had some caps already replaced around the first of the year. This TV is highly disappointed because I also have the same problems as most people here. Wavy lines on any input but HDMI, replaced caps, etc.
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post #5780 of 7433 Old 08-12-2008, 05:20 PM
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5-12 total failure
8-12 "still in the shop, haven't heard anything, but hey you're in front of the 10 other chassis we sent in after yours"
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post #5781 of 7433 Old 08-13-2008, 01:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beachhouse View Post

5-12 total failure
8-12 "still in the shop, haven't heard anything, but hey you're in front of the 10 other chassis we sent in after yours"

So you are on the "waiting for chassis rebuild queue as well"!

My chassis was sent in last week. The shop seemed to think that Mits was going to turn it around in 2-3 weeks. At what point did your chassis get sent to Mits-- do you know? I'm not sure where these chassis are being sent to be rebuilt- Irvine, Ca? But they must have a friggin' factory floor covered with them. Or it's just one guy with a mountain of chassis sitting next to his lab bench.
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post #5782 of 7433 Old 08-13-2008, 01:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cjut01 View Post

So you are on the "waiting for chassis rebuild queue as well"!

My chassis was sent in last week. The shop seemed to think that Mits was going to turn it around in 2-3 weeks. At what point did your chassis get sent to Mits-- do you know? I'm not sure where these chassis are being sent to be rebuilt- Irvine, Ca? But they must have a friggin' factory floor covered with them. Or it's just one guy with a mountain of chassis sitting next to his lab bench.

As an aside, even my wife is now starting to say "gee if we had a place to put the old one when it comes back from the repair shop, we could get a new set right now..." I am throwing out some strategic comments about waiting to see some of the new sets that will be coming out soon, etc. I wish I could get a buyout (still under warrany) and take the $$ and put it towards a new set, but I have to think that if Mits is actually rebuilding every chassis that gets sent to them, they will do whatever it takes to send it back fixed. So based on their current tactics, they probably can deliver a chassis that will work and I presume keep working (if they do some proactive surgery for what might not be an issue currently but is an expected problem). Maybe I am giving them more credit for common sense than they deserve, though.
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post #5783 of 7433 Old 08-14-2008, 06:55 AM
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My WD62525, still in extended warranty period, was repaired after a 6-week wait with a chassis replacement, probably a rebuilt one. In the meantime, I had purchased a 52RV530 Toshiba LCD with an awesome picture. Mounted it on the wall and hooked it up to my DirecTV DVR and antenna. Couldn't be happier. When the repair guy called to say the Mits was ready, I had it delivered to my daughter's house. I checked it out, and the picture looked good. My daughter is happy, and so am I. The Mits still has a year's worth of warranty time, so the warranty company, after expending $1400+ (Two lamps @250 and a chassis @ 995), will still be on the hook. The warranty company will be tapped for another lamp just before the warranty expires, and still on the hook for possible further repairs, so they will be wishing they had just totalled it for $1200 as I originally requested. The Tosh was much less than half what I paid for the Mits, and naturally with improving technology, a far better picture. I feel for all who did not have extended warranty on these sets, as they seem to self-destruct at about 3-5 years old.
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post #5784 of 7433 Old 08-14-2008, 03:42 PM
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Originally Posted by cjut01 View Post

So you are on the "waiting for chassis rebuild queue as well"!

My chassis was sent in last week. The shop seemed to think that Mits was going to turn it around in 2-3 weeks. At what point did your chassis get sent to Mits-- do you know? I'm not sure where these chassis are being sent to be rebuilt- Irvine, Ca? But they must have a friggin' factory floor covered with them. Or it's just one guy with a mountain of chassis sitting next to his lab bench.

Mine is in Atlanta (so I'm told)
Labor day weekend is the time. I bought a 50" plasma last year for 899 delivered from a local big box.
I will get the sammy LED this year unless someone stops me, and my mitsu****** will go into my AV business inventory until it messes up again, and then, it will be target practice.
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post #5785 of 7433 Old 08-16-2008, 08:39 AM
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Well, after about six weeks of waiting, Mitsubishi told the local repair company to pull the FMT board for return, but the tech noted the bulging capacitors on the DM board, and he pulled that too. So instead of a chassis rebuild, I'll get the board repair instead, and warranty company crossing fingers that that will do the trick. I've been able to watch the set for a couple of hours only by powering it down overnight to reset the BGLOD, but now its looking at least two weeks (probably more) before I get HDTV back. Anyone else just get the two board repair only?
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post #5786 of 7433 Old 08-18-2008, 07:51 PM
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The inputs on my 52525 went out, i just have a blue screen and the menus are messed up. I have read up about all the capacitor problems. can someone tell me where i can get more info about replacing them.

also, there sometimes is a black screen with while dots(like the night sky, with stars)

any help is appreciated.

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post #5787 of 7433 Old 08-21-2008, 08:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beachhouse View Post

Mine is in Atlanta (so I'm told)
Labor day weekend is the time. I bought a 50" plasma last year for 899 delivered from a local big box.
I will get the sammy LED this year unless someone stops me, and my mitsu****** will go into my AV business inventory until it messes up again, and then, it will be target practice.

Update #n : 45 elapsed days. The repair shop is now saying that Mits is quoting 4-6 weeks to turn around chassis rebuilds. I am not sure if this is consistent with what you heard. It will be interesting if they hit your Labor Day estimate.

Another month will put me into football season and close to baseball playoffs. I have pretty much given up on this-- I am shooting for the new 65" Panny Plasma that will be shipping by the end of the month. I would have actually looked at the LaserVue but there is no launch date and notional pricing thoeries have them actually at or above plasmas (which I find crazy). Plus I may be able to get my wife to agree to the new set, but she might balk at spending any more money with Mits, especially on new technology. And she would be right.

If I do get the Mits back I will need to find a home for it. Doubtful I can sell, but it will have one year left on the warranty. Any takers? Please-- not all at once!
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post #5788 of 7433 Old 08-21-2008, 03:11 PM
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talked to tv guy today, and he said he got his first chassis back, which was sent in 2 weeks before mine. He says that Mitsu says 7 more days. then, I would add shipping, holiday, and reinstallation which will add up to probably another 3 weeks plus.

We'll see what's on sale next week.
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post #5789 of 7433 Old 08-23-2008, 06:02 PM
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Just an update if any here followed my saga. I eventually had the whole chassis sent to mits and had it rebuilt and sent back. Through all the repairs I didn't have a TV for 3 months. But when it came back, it was like my TV was new again, picture quality wise. It's been flawless since the end of march.

And now today I unplugged it so I could move some of the plugs around in my ent center (got that logitech rechargeable keyboard), plug the mits back in and blinking light of death.

Guess it's a call to Warrantech again. What fun that is. I hope they just give me a new set finally. I know they've spent about $3k in repairs so far.

You would think after the chassis was sent back to mitsubishi, they would have upgraded the chassis for all problems, guess not.

This is easily the worst product I have ever purchased quality wise, I am just glad I bought the warranty.
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post #5790 of 7433 Old 08-23-2008, 06:18 PM
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I hate to say it, but this has been my worst fear. Mitsubishi should know by now that there are hundreds of caps in these sets that will be failing and just replacing the ones causing the immediate problem will not be a reliable fix. The only way to repair them reliably IME, is to replace every electrolytic cap in the set, which will number in the hundreds.

The one DM that I bothered to remove ALL of the caps from and test had virtually all of them test bad or at best marginal. Only a couple tested good. That includes ALL of them. both radial and surface mount. There is little reason to expect that the other boards are any better. When discussing this with them they just don't seem to want to bother with the information.

Yes, calibration is important...every user should be calibrated.

Need electronics repair? A great place to start looking for a shop in your area: http://www.tvrepairpros.com/
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