Build You Own (BYO) TV Stand - Page 16 - AVS Forum
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post #451 of 1415 Old 02-20-2005, 05:29 PM
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Quote:


Originally posted by Kenlex
If you DIDN'T go down to the stain, I would suggest a uniform wet-sanding with 320 grit to get rid of the scratch marks, and then another coat.

Fortunately I did not sand down to the stain.

What do you mean by a uniform wet-sanding? Is this with an orbiting sander or by hand?
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post #452 of 1415 Old 02-22-2005, 01:07 PM - Thread Starter
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Kenlex...

I suspect that Stale hasn't gone down to the stain, but apparently has some deeper surface cuts from sandpaper that are showing up as "scratches" once the stain was applied. This usually results from using too coarse a paper, and/or sanding across the grain in an effort to achieve some leveling need.

There's not much you can do with that, short of stripping the wood and trying to get the stain out of the deeper crevices... then starting all over again. Very dark stains are somewhat forgiving in this respect, but medium-light colors are not.

Palm sanders with high-quality 320 paper usually get rid of these mini-gouges in the sanding process. And if you can find something 400 grit that isn't wet, you can try that too.

But Stale, I don't know if you can get those scratches out.

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post #453 of 1415 Old 02-22-2005, 01:19 PM
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Actually, I used Klenex's advice and wet-sanded with 320 grit. It actually caused me to take a little stain of the edges (I might have been a little more careful), but I restained the edges, and finished the rest. The scratches are mostly gone, and we are much happier.

Thanks to everyone. I'll try to post pictures if people are interested. I ended up going to same route as joeren by using the 80/20 aluminum polls. We are pretty happy with the result. My sofa table is zen insipred...
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post #454 of 1415 Old 02-22-2005, 02:37 PM
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Stale,

I'm glad it worked out for you. I would have responded to your "what do you mean by general wet-sanding" query, but I was off-net for a few days.
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post #455 of 1415 Old 02-23-2005, 11:24 PM
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I haven't posted on this thread for a while and just picked it up again.
As I was reading all the past posts I saw there was a lot of discussion about staining and finishing your project so I thought I would add my 2 cents worth.
As some of you have probably already found out, building the TV stand is the easy part. The toughest part is staining and finishing it and making it look good. All that time and work on your new EC can be ruined in no time flat by not applying the stain and finish properly. The Minwax commercials make it look easy. It's not. You can't learn how to do it from the back of a stain can or from a Home Depot salesman. He mixes paint. Before you even buy the stain or finish, I suggest you go to the library or bookstore and pick up a copy of "Understanding Wood Finishing. How to Select and Apply the Right Finish" by Bob Flexner. ($15) In my opinion it is the best and most understandable book on finishing wood that I have found. I have 2 copies, though I'm not sure why. It takes you from sanding to the final finish. It describes all the different types of stains and finishes. Their advantages and disadvantages. How to apply them and how to fix them if you screw it up. The book also makes suggestions on how to stain and finish different types of wood. No, my name is not Bob Flexner. It's always better to have an idea how to do something before you start. It's free at the library.
More 2 cents worth. Staining is tough enough. Make it easier on yourself. Use the same type of wood for both the cabinet and trim. Don't mix woods. (birch cabinet and pine or poplar trim) It is very hard to make them look the same color. Let's face it. You just dropped 3 to 5 grand on a big, new flashy TV and have another $1000 worth of AV stuff, why cheap out on the TV cabinet. Spend the extra $100 on a sheet of cherry plywood or oak or whatever and get some matching solid trim. You won't regret it. The end result will not only look better, but it should be much easier to finish.
Final 2 cents worth. If you do much woodworking at all, spend the bucks on a HVLP sprayer instead of the new mortiser or bandsaw. In my opinion, you can get a much better finish with a sprayer than you can with a brush. It is messier though.
Too preachy? Sorry.
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post #456 of 1415 Old 02-24-2005, 06:53 AM
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Here is a pic of the Mits 52725 stand with doors closed. I need to make horizontal shelves and consider a backing to hide the wires (which is a rats nest until I decide the arrangement of components). It's about 64" wide and about 20" deep. The 20" height brings the center of the tv image down to my eye level when seated, give or take an inch.
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post #457 of 1415 Old 02-24-2005, 07:01 AM
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Quote:


Originally posted by Pine2
Here is a pic of the Mits 52725 stand with doors closed. I need to make horizontal shelves and consider a backing to hide the wires (which is a rats nest until I decide the arrangement of components). It's about 64" wide and about 20" deep. The 20" height brings the center of the tv image down to my eye level when seated, give or take an inch.


LL
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post #458 of 1415 Old 02-24-2005, 07:02 AM
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Quote:


Originally posted by Pine2


LL
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post #459 of 1415 Old 02-24-2005, 07:52 AM
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Pine2,

Great looking stand! Good work. Enjoy it.
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post #460 of 1415 Old 02-24-2005, 08:43 AM
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Hey dadetigl, That was closer to a dimes worth.



Some good advise though for those who haven't done much woodworking.

"Some people are like Slinkies--not really good for anything, but they still bring a smile to your face when you push them down a flight of stairs."
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post #461 of 1415 Old 03-05-2005, 08:33 AM
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I thought I would come back and post a photo of my now completed JVC HD-ILA stand.
Advice and looking at photos of other posters' stands helped a lot. Actually, I drew up the designs starting with some drawings on here and then my carpenter friend whipped it up. My dimensions are roughly 20h x 41w x 17d.
LL
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post #462 of 1415 Old 03-06-2005, 05:36 AM
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Pokelahoma; your carpenter did a nice job, but too bad the 'silver' of that set detracts from everything. Dark rich looking wood and chinsy silver................

Abundant OTA television is what makes this country different from all others. Lets keep it this way.
The Internet is no place for streaming video.
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post #463 of 1415 Old 03-22-2005, 09:39 AM - Thread Starter
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Paul will appreciate this. Just acquired a Jet 14" bandsaw and some other new tools including a Delta drill press, a dust collection system and power air filter. Getting ready to start the 2nd phase of my entertainment wall next week.

Paul... keep your eye on the lookout for a used 10" cabinet saw (Unisaw, Jet, Grizzly, etc.) Has to be 220v single phase.

Mike
LL

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post #464 of 1415 Old 03-23-2005, 05:43 AM
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To bring this thread back from the dead and to show my stand after months of sitting in the basement waiting to sell my 15 year old CRT RPTV, here it is. (pretend it's a 50" Microdisplay sitting on top) The slot on the right is for the tower when all is said and done.
LL

Abundant OTA television is what makes this country different from all others. Lets keep it this way.
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post #465 of 1415 Old 03-23-2005, 05:44 AM
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This is a wide shot of the corner and why I did what I did. Th position of the stand might have to move to the left when I get the set, but this was a guess on placement. The way the Living room is setup it has to go here, unfortunately blocking the fireplace. The TV is functional, the fireplace isn't (at least not anymore).
LL

Abundant OTA television is what makes this country different from all others. Lets keep it this way.
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post #466 of 1415 Old 03-23-2005, 05:50 AM
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Here is a closeup of the rear. The power strip/protection unit I 'hung' with 4" right angles. It was a $80 unit that I got from a Hamfest for $25 (new)! BTW, I'll put that up against those $200+ overpriced consumer gimmicks. I also used two round head long metal screws as posts to tie the cables to.
LL

Abundant OTA television is what makes this country different from all others. Lets keep it this way.
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post #467 of 1415 Old 03-23-2005, 06:05 AM
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Bruce,

Congratulations! It looks great. I especially like the look the half-round moulding gave the edges of the shelves. It's interesting the way it kind of wraps around the vertical support R of center, and on the bottom shelf it provides a nice break above the toe-kick.
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post #468 of 1415 Old 03-23-2005, 06:17 AM
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Mike,
What kind of movable cart do you have under the band saw? Is it something that the machine can be cammed up off the ground to move it, and once you have it where you want it, dropped down so that the machine does not walk around under use? I hope that my second question is understandable.
I have an old Atlas band saw that I would like to set up the way yours is set up.
Fred
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post #469 of 1415 Old 03-23-2005, 06:34 AM
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Kenlex; as I stated in a previous post with a detail shot, I needed someway to 'hide' the grain of the plywood and that seemed the easiest and cheapest.
I'm just disappointed with the stain. It should of been much, much darker! I have NO idea what I was or wasn't thinking at the time. It's not even close to the rest of the baseboards or furniture iin the room.

Abundant OTA television is what makes this country different from all others. Lets keep it this way.
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post #470 of 1415 Old 03-23-2005, 07:49 AM
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Yes, I understand the purpose of the moulding; just saying that beyond its functional purpose, using half-round added some nice stylistic touches compared to other mothods (edge-banding tape or a shelf-edge moulding that is much "flatter" than half-round).
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post #471 of 1415 Old 03-30-2005, 01:10 PM - Thread Starter
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Fred...

You hit the nail right on the head. The stand has four (4) wheels and the rear two are swivel units set up on a sort of cammed arrangement with a large (4"?) curved lever that allows you to lift with your toe, press with your sole. In the lift position, it hikes up the back of the saw about 3/4" and you can move it anywhere, then when you drop it... it's resting on large adjustable sliders in the rear, and non-swivel wheels in the front. Theres a sheet of 3/4" plywood inlaid in the metal frame, and the saw base is fastened to the plywood so there's no chance of it tipping out. I believe the "cart" is a Woodcraft item.

My current table saw also has a mobile cart, and I intend to put locking casters on my jointer. I'm probably going to sell/replace the tablesaw, and when I do, the "new" cabinet saw will have to have mobility as well.

Quote:


Originally posted by Pelallito
Mike,
What kind of movable cart do you have under the band saw? Is it something that the machine can be cammed up off the ground to move it, and once you have it where you want it, dropped down so that the machine does not walk around under use? I hope that my second question is understandable.
I have an old Atlas band saw that I would like to set up the way yours is set up.
Fred

BTW, for those of you who are forever looking for hardware, one of the catalogs I would heartily recommend is Lee Valley's. Here's a link:

https://www.leevalley.com/home/CatalogSelect.aspx?c=2

Do yourself a favor, order something online and get the three (3) main catalogs (woodworking tools, hardware, and garden tools). Your better half will love the garden catalog, and the hardware catalog may inspire you to change hardware on existing cabinets... although there's way more than knobs and drawer pulls in that monster.

Iron Horse

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post #472 of 1415 Old 03-30-2005, 01:36 PM
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Iron Horse,
I will go to Woodcraft and price it out, I want one.
Do you have your PM activated? I tried sending you a message a while ago with no response.
Thanks for the information on the stand.
Regards,
Fred
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post #473 of 1415 Old 03-30-2005, 01:53 PM - Thread Starter
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Fred...

I apologize for not checking. I did disable the notification a while back. Thanks for the link. From what I understand, the phase converters needed for a typical 3 HP Unisaw are worth about $750-$1000 which is more than I want to spend on a (used) saw!

I'd sooner wait and see if I can find a 220v single phase cabinet saw, hopefully a local one, and just run a 220v line from the service panel to the shop (about 25 feet).

Mike

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post #474 of 1415 Old 03-30-2005, 02:25 PM
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Mike,
I am glad that you liked the website. Sometimes woodworking equipment shows up there in the classified/sales area.
I think that you can get the converter for less than that. I think that I paid about $300 to $400 for the one I bought for my little surface grinder.
It probably would be cheaper to just run the 220 Volt line to the machine. I still have to do that to my surface grinder.
Thanks you for the BYO stand thread. I have enjoyed it a lot.
Regards,
Fred
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post #475 of 1415 Old 03-30-2005, 05:45 PM
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IH
Sorry it took so long to respond. I haven't been poking around here too much lately. Very busy with a big project for work. Anyway, If I come across a good deal on a used Unisaw, I will let you know so that you can come and check it out in MY shop!



Paul

PS I put a coat of stain on my cabinet.........Finally.
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post #476 of 1415 Old 03-31-2005, 12:37 PM - Thread Starter
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Paul...

You must be busy because you were going at warp speed for a while on the TV stand... right?

After I finish my entertainment room, one of my "Honey-Do" projects might be some built-ins in the living room. I remember some pix you sent once of a white-finished built-in setup and wanted to ask your advice on something. First, we have a fireplace centered in the LR, and what the wife wants me to do is build bookcases on either side. The mantel/trim is all white semi-gloss, and the top of the mantel extends about 6" past all other vertical trim from the floor up. I'm thinking I should "bury" the excess by snipping it off, and establish the inside vertical columns for the bookcases by actually building them out towards the opposite wall. That would give me some depth to work with. I could also look into notching into the wall with the cabinet and cheat it a little... maybe pick up 3"in depth, then make the unit 10" deep on top, and if I incorporate doors on the bottom, make that 12"-14" deep. Waaddayyaa think?

Mike

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post #477 of 1415 Old 03-31-2005, 03:54 PM
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Well, I'm back! Well, maybe. After I got the decent stand from BB with my TV purchase and put off my mission to build a stand I am now interested in an entertainment center. I have contacts some local home theater custom cabinet makers to gauge prices, but one quick on based on past work started at $7 grand!! For a unit that's 70" tall and maybe 100" wide, $7 grand just sounds like over kill to me.

So, I still have to hear back from 3 guys. Depending on their prices, I may end up trying my damnedest to do it myself. I wanted to pass along my rough idea for some feedback. I ordered 'How To Build An Entertainment Center' actually, 2 books of the same title, from Amazon to help with the details. One thing will be doors, getting glass cut and then mounting them into a door frame. Drawers will also be a major pain as well as showing little if any screws/nail/ plugs.

Any one know offhand where to get DVD racks for mounting inside on shelves for pull out? And also where to get speaker cloth/grills for covering doors where a speaker will be placed?

This is my rough, very rough idea. The crosshatched areas are for my center, front mains (towers) and my sub.
LL
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post #478 of 1415 Old 03-31-2005, 06:03 PM
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Hey Kid,
For 7G's Plus, you can fly Iron Horse and me down, and we will hook you up! How does that sound IH?

Also, I am attaching a photo of a project that we did around an existing fireplace. This had nothing but brick when we started. We looked at some books, and the homowner saw something she liked, and we made it. Alot of time, bookshelves are 12" deep. In my opinion and experience, you don't need to have them 12" deep. 10 is more than enough. If the shelves are too deep, the books will slide way back, or you will have a lot of wasted space behind the books. Just my opinion.
LL
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post #479 of 1415 Old 03-31-2005, 06:13 PM
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Quote:


Originally posted by Kid Red
Well, I'm back! Well, maybe...

Welcome back, Red!

This is about the same size and shape of entertainment center I built a year and a half ago out of maple veneer plywood. More shelves, fewer doors, but the general size and shape is similar, so I'd be happy to offer any advice/experience.

You can get both DVD rack materials and speaker grille cloth from Rockler. There's a Rockler store about 12mi. from me, which is nice, but you can order from their catalog or web site, too.

(Now that I finally have a digital camera, I should snap some pix of my unit and post them here)
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post #480 of 1415 Old 04-01-2005, 12:06 PM
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Pablopsd- We are now exploring the option of having a local AV cabinetry company build them, $6500 or so for laminate, and $7500+ for hardwood. We have a couple of nice laminate pieces already and may decide that's acceptable if the finished can be matched. I have not deiced whether I can pull this off myself and may end up letting a pro do it. They are nice people, and are the company my local hi-fi store uses, so they came highly recommended. I have a meeting with them Tuesday to discuss it further, look at samples, etc but they will be able to design it in ways I would never know. Like a false back behind the components for wire management, etc. I may just bite the bullet and let them do it. The wife wants them to do it, so it's hard for me to say no. Just that $6500 on an entertainment system makes me wonder why I don't have a big plasma But my JVC 52" LCoS should be fine.

Kenlex- yea, I came across Rockler yesterday evening. They have everything I would need. Nice resource should I do this or something in the future. Which ever way I go, I'll be sure to post some pics, if only for the history and implementation of my design. Thanks for offering help, tho I may have set my goals too high on this one. We'll have to see how the meeting goes, but I may stick to smaller projects and let this fairly large one go to the pros.
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