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post #31 of 1413 Old 11-17-2004, 02:35 PM
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Ironhorse,
nice job! cant wait to see when you put the finish on it. I think hand staining it will make it look much better.

anyone knows a entertainment center plan for a rptv like a bridge and 2 media centers on each side. thanks.
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post #32 of 1413 Old 11-17-2004, 02:36 PM
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John- The link didn't work but I think I have what you mentioned. It's a cylinder with a pointed cone top? I think I tired that one time and the spacing made it hard to line up because the two pieces of wood are like 1/2 inch apart and I couldn't guarantee perfect alignment or something. As for screws, is there a preferred screw for plywood? And do you know what edge molding would match best with plywood when it's stained?
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post #33 of 1413 Old 11-17-2004, 05:09 PM - Thread Starter
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I'm attaching a sketch showing a quick, down and dirty way to make a dowel drilling guide out of scrap wood. Just a couple of pieces of 3/4" plywood glued together does the trick. To make sure the hole/guide is straight, I recommend using a drill press to make that hole. Assuming you can clamp your cabinet together, the bottoms can be pre-drilled for dowels, and then when you take it apart, you can pre-drill the bottom for screws as well. Smear the glue on the joint, also on the dowels, and then put it back together. Use a hacksaw or coping saw to cut off the excess dowel stump.

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post #34 of 1413 Old 11-17-2004, 06:40 PM
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My Goodness!! I am gone for a day and have to go 2 pages for all the posts! Seems like everyone is into things. Cool!
1. I have used edge banding for speakers and just recently for a built in entertainment center around a rear projection unit. It will work ok and should stain fine. Be careful trimming it as it is wider than 3/4". Also don't burn it. It can be sanded. I prefer a wider solid frame biscuited to the structure for more strength. I overbuild. Bad habit.
2. The plywood back should stop racking, even on carpeting. I set mine into the cabinet 1/4" and glued and stapled with narrow crown staples.

I will post some pictures of my unit if I can figure it out. Keep in mind it was built for the old tv, so integration of the design with new tv is not great. I am sure I am missing something that I read in all the post to respond to. Tomorrow I will take notes!
Keep in mind if you have any carpentry background, this project should reach 100% completion, just close to it!
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post #35 of 1413 Old 11-17-2004, 07:52 PM - Thread Starter
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Since I have several requests to keep posting progress, I thought I'd give you a look at tonite's effort... building the center drawer.

A drawer is basically another kind of box. I made up a composite shot that shows a few different steps. In a nutshelll, once you rip the sides, you then cut the slot by sampling your required depth/thickness. I used my router to put a rounded crown on the top edges of the drawer sides, back, and front. You always cut the drawer bottom a little undersize so it can wiggle around for alignment and also for humidity. Then you square it up and clamp one end while you glue and nail the other end. Once glued, you put the clamp on the glued side and glue/nail the opposite side. Then... you quickly get the pipe clamps on and check with a steel square to make sure you don't have a trapezoid.

The finished drawer is about 1½" shallower than the center well, and that will allow me to stain/finish a nice piece of wood for the drawer front, and align it perfectly with the width of the center well. The drawer box gets clear-coated birch, and it'll be a nice contrast to the darker cherry on the front. I'm thinking I might use a tubular stainless handle.

I'll keep posting this stuff and hope forum members don't mind. I just wanted to show that you don't have to be a professional cabinet maker to make something useful, functional, and hopefully... attractive. I'm having a blast with the project, but I hope people aren't going to gripe that this is an AVS Forum and not wood shop 101 !

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post #36 of 1413 Old 11-17-2004, 07:58 PM - Thread Starter
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For those that want to dowel... here's a simple tool that will let you align fairly well. Just make sure the two pieces of wood don't move!
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post #37 of 1413 Old 11-18-2004, 03:32 AM
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Ironhorse,
Looks like you are making great progress. If people gripe about the post, they don't have to read it! Keep it up.

Paul
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post #38 of 1413 Old 11-18-2004, 05:41 AM
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Here is a question for you guys. My stand is being built as we speak (image on first page of the thread), but I need to figure something out for cooling.

I was thinking about mounting a thin fan behind each component to pull the air out of the cabinet. I would need 5 fans, and would want to run them in line so I could just plug one into the receiver so when it powers up, the fans turn on.

Do you guys have any suggestions on fans that would work for this purpose, and can be wired in line to all work together?

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post #39 of 1413 Old 11-18-2004, 07:24 AM - Thread Starter
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Crane...

You might consider doing what I was contemplating... using ordinary pegboard for the back panel behind the components. A good deal of heat will escape from the peforations. If there's a real problem... you could use a solid masonite back with a full width 1" slot open near the bottom. Then cut out a hole and mount a boxer fan up near the top. That way cool air is drawn in from outside down low, and you get the forced chimney effect of power convection.

As an aside, I've been using a Kenwood enclosed wood/glass stereo cabinet for all my components for years. The back is partially closed off, but open behind the Yamaha A/V receiver. I never had a problem with heat.

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post #40 of 1413 Old 11-18-2004, 07:32 AM
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Ironhorse,

I thought about the peg board, but my wife didn't like the way it would look in the back of the cabinet, so we went with 1/4 oak plywood. I was just thinking fans would be easy.

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post #41 of 1413 Old 11-18-2004, 08:00 AM
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Quote:


Originally posted by IronHorse
I'm attaching a sketch showing a quick, down and dirty way to make a dowel drilling guide out of scrap wood. Just a couple of pieces of 3/4" plywood glued together does the trick. To make sure the hole/guide is straight, I recommend using a drill press to make that hole. Assuming you can clamp your cabinet together, the bottoms can be pre-drilled for dowels, and then when you take it apart, you can pre-drill the bottom for screws as well. Smear the glue on the joint, also on the dowels, and then put it back together. Use a hacksaw or coping saw to cut off the excess dowel stump.

Iron Horse

Ah, so you drill thru both pieces and insert the dowel. I always tried to do it like the pre-made stuff. Cut a short 2" dowel, and drill a 1" hole into piece one and into piece two. Getting those 2 holes to line up was hard. Never thought about drill one hole straight thru. Would that be better then simply using a screw instead of the dowel?

Just saw the dowel clamp post-can I get that at Home Depot? Looks cool. The one thing I don't have is a router.
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post #42 of 1413 Old 11-18-2004, 08:48 AM - Thread Starter
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SWMBO Rules!

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post #43 of 1413 Old 11-18-2004, 10:59 AM
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It's funny that you guys started this thread - I just yesterday started my own little cabinet. I get really sick of all those open air stands and my wife hates them! I figure if she's kind enough to let me get whatever big screen I want, then I can put in some labor and time and come up with a decent piece of furniture. I don't understand what people are doing with these table top tv's and center channel speakers. I know some folks are building shelves above their tv's but I really don't think I would like this. I want to have my cake and eat it to - I want a large capable center channel and enough room for all my components. Even the salamander triples wouldn't house all my stuff. And believe me, I'm not about to buy bose just for the size :0


Anyway, I'll try to post some pics by tonight so you guys can let me know what you think. Unfortunately, due to some time constraints I won't be able to get as detailed as I would like with this project, but I'm confident I can come up with something better than majority of what's out there. Nice thread, btw, I get kind of tired of the "which tv is better?" topics and this is a very constructive way to share ideas.

Looks like you have a great start, btw, Ironhorse - and some mad skills!
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post #44 of 1413 Old 11-18-2004, 11:04 AM
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Spiff69,

If you look back at the first page I have the dimensions of my cabinet. I have a 23 inch wide, 8 inch tall Klipsch center channel that weighs about 20 pounds. I am having the cabinet built wide enough in the center section to put the center channel down below. I have played with it a little bit and it sounds about the same.

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post #45 of 1413 Old 11-18-2004, 11:17 AM
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Cool - I saw that. My design is very similar. I have a Paradigm Studio CC about the size of your Klipsch and that's definitely one of my biggest priorities. I was a little concerned about sound quality, but my speaker has a very wide dispersion and I think I'll miss my coffee table pretty well. I'll not be going with doors like yours, but I am looking forward to seeing how it turns out for you.
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post #46 of 1413 Old 11-18-2004, 11:47 AM - Thread Starter
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Spiff69...

Just like you, I couldn't figure out what the attractiveness is to the open stands, but hey... whatever floats the boat. The wife was totally against even a floor sample (open style) that was $100 cash & carry. She wants a closed cabinet and so do I and she didn't really like the Salamander T20, but told me to buy it if I liked it. I decided that I'd plug the tablesaw in, and get to work. No, it won't be Henredon or even Thomasville quality, but it'll look good and be 100% functional because I've designed it around my components and it'd be flexible enogh to adapt to new/additional components.

My center channel is an Infinity, and it's around 19" wide, so I wound up making my cabinet design 60" long, or a couple of inches wider than my Mits 62725. So the center compartment is dedicated to the center channel, and above it, I'm putting a 5" drawer that is almost 20" wide. Great place for remotes, manuals, maybe some other junk. Not 100% mounted yet, but here's a picture. BTW, there's enough space between the top of the speaker and the bottom of the drawer to add a Comcast STB or something else since I can get three components on the right, and two in the left compartment.

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post #47 of 1413 Old 11-18-2004, 12:18 PM
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ironhorse- it's rocking along, looks good. How are you going to deal with the edges? ie- the draw edges where you can see the sandwiched wood layers? That's the one thing I hate about plywood-dealing with the edges.

Spiff69-I have a paradigm Studio set up as well. I, however, have my coffee table not 3 feet from my setup (currently CRT tube with CC on top of the set). I just want to follow the rules that says the CC should be inline level with the side fronts. So, I would either have my CC at the top on the cabinet, or wall mounted above the TV. Seeing how well ironhorse's unit is turning out, I may do mine myself. Of course, that won't be until I get whatever set I end up getting whenever that is I just hope I have enough width for the CC and components on both sides, if not, I won't do it in 3rds. So I can't even design mine yet, until I get a new TV and know the widths.
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post #48 of 1413 Old 11-18-2004, 12:45 PM
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The easiest and probably best way to handle exposed plywood edges is to use edge banding. You can also laminate a thin layer of hardwood to the edge. Rockler carries banding supplies for this purpose.

I just saw this thread for the first time today and just skimmed through it to see what was going on. I like that IronHorse is posting photos as he progresses with the project. It's kind of like our own version of the New Yankee Home Theater!

I built a home entertainment center a while back that I just might have to post some pictures of so you guys can see what kind of project is possible. I built it with the intention of using it with a RPTV and eventually did get a 50" Mitsubishi that worked quite nicely with it. I used to have more A/V gear than the average Circuit City showroom so I built it with lots of equipment shelves. My primary audio playback source at the time was vinyl LPs so I also had lots of space for record albums. I had a multitude of VCRs, laserdisc players, and just about any other analog or digital recording or playback device available at the time.

I recently dismantled the setup (it was built to be modular) as I went with a new Hitachi 60VS810 LCD RPTV that would not fit between the main cabinets. I have also greatly reduced the number of A/V components in my system to just a handful of DirecTivos, HDTivos, A/V preamp/processor, and DVD player so I no longer need the vast storage capacity of the system. I won't be able to post any photos of the cabinets when they were fully set up as I lost all of my digital photos recently when my PC hard drive went belly up. I'm still using the main cabinets to house my LPs, CDs, and old videotapes as well as storage for extra A/V components no longer in use or just waiting for a good home.
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post #49 of 1413 Old 11-18-2004, 01:40 PM
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captain-video- The banding, how does that handle stain or paint? That's my concern is the edges, I would think about using the really thin trim molding to cap the edges, but that might not stain the same color as the plywood.

As for pics, yes please!
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post #50 of 1413 Old 11-18-2004, 02:48 PM - Thread Starter
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Red...

As you know, I'm also trying to decide how to do the edges. On one hand, I bought some birch banding as a edge cutter so I can try it out on some scraps. But then one of my contractor friends just bought a thickness planer but hasn't had time to get it out of the box and set it up. He offered to lend it to me so I can do the setup and of course make some 1/8" (?) or maybe 1/4" maple strips. Of course, I could simply rip some 3/4" maple or poplar on the tablesaw and then plane/sand.

I think the part about the tape stuff is that I'm worried that it won't sit totally flush and maybe buckle... and also maybe not take the stain or finish that well.

With regard to finish, I've never used tung oil or wipe on polyurethane. Anyone here want to chime in on the pros and cons of these methods?

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post #51 of 1413 Old 11-18-2004, 04:54 PM
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Ironhorse,
When I first started building furniture, I would a different type of finish. I have used Formby's Tung oil, which is hand rubbed, a variety of waterbased polys along with some other hand rubbed stuff, some of which isn't in production anymore. My entertainment center and coffee table finish is Parks Superpoly, a waterbased finish. Not hand rubbed. Use a quality brush, NOT a foam brush with the waterbase stuff. They inject air bubbles into the finish. They have held up very well. 7 years or so. Now it is exposed to little hands for the last year. Still doing well.
A chest made for my wife as a gift 14+ years ago was hand rubbed tung oil. Very nice to apply. No brush strokes and stuff. Haven't touched it in 14 years except to dust or vacuum.
The other hand rubbed stuff I have used worked just as well.
I went to the waterbased poly stuff because I could 3 coat it in 1.5 hours or so. DONE! They also self level when you apply them. Not as many brush strokes. I have also sprayed waterbase with a HVLP sprayer. That worked well too.
Sorry for the rambling
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post #52 of 1413 Old 11-18-2004, 05:12 PM
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Quote:


Originally posted by Pablopsd
Use a quality brush, NOT a foam brush with the waterbase stuff. They inject air bubbles into the finish.

Damn it, now ya tell me Was wondering why I kept getting bubbles, thought it was the method. I used a smooth roller as well, then quickly went back over with a brush. Thing is, in about 2-3 minutes, it would get tacky and show my strokes. That's why I used the roller, to get more on faster, but still have streaking issues.
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post #53 of 1413 Old 11-18-2004, 07:39 PM - Thread Starter
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Paul...

Thanks for that insght on finishes. Doesn't that water based poly raise the grain a bit? You gotta'post some pix!

A few years ago I built a teak cabinet for a boat and a boatbuilder recommended DEFT, and I tried it. It's pretty neat, but I wasn't sure I'd use it on this project. Its simply brushable lacquer. I've seen some tung oil samples over at the local Woodcraft store, and I'm amazed... but I don't know what's involved in getting wood to that level of finish. Here's the DEFT web site.

http://www.deftfinishes.com/wood/clear.htm

Tonight I spent some time installing four temporary 2" plate mount casters and also set the drawer. Sat on it and no creaks but I'm only about 185#. Sooner or later I will bring it upstairs to put the set on it. Want to do that so that if I have to go to a 3" wheel or space the current wheels with pads... I can do it before finishing. Right now the height is about 20½" so I'm on target. I'm just thinking I might want to see it a little higher off the ground. At least I can roll it in and out of the shop area now.
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post #54 of 1413 Old 11-18-2004, 08:16 PM
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What's up guys? Well, here's a few pics:

I used the banding on the sides - I'll let you know how it takes a finish. The rods in front or for the adjustable shelving clips. I'll paint them black and you'll never see them.



One from the other side. Used the oak 3/4" ply and faced it with 1x2

http://gallery.avsforum.com/showphot...cat=500&page=1

I made a lip on the back side to help with cable management. I also shortened the shelf depth behind the middle section to allow room to place my surge protectors. I have yet to cut the holes, but I'll soon take the hole saw and go to town.

http://gallery.avsforum.com/showphot...cat=500&page=1

Here's my old stand. . . Took me a long time and I didn't quite have all the right tools. but I think it served its purpose.

http://gallery.avsforum.com/showphot...cat=500&page=1

I've had to kind of hurry on this project but I've had a lot of fun. Gotta do some more sanding and cut my holes and then I'll put a finish on it . . . can't wait!
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post #55 of 1413 Old 11-18-2004, 08:55 PM - Thread Starter
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Spiff69...

Looks GREAT! Looking forward to hearing about your experiences with the banding material. So how big a set are you putting on it?

Nice to see some other construction pix other than mine. But it is funny how we all seem to like that wooden tri-compartment approach, huh? It's so logical and practical... and it's pretty structurally sound too.

Give us the details on the finishing.

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post #56 of 1413 Old 11-18-2004, 09:30 PM
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Yeah, I love the triple design. There's really not anything else that will allow you to center your center

I'll house my ps2 and xbox side by side underneath the center channel. I plan to house about 5 components in the two ends.

I'm getting pretty excited. To answer your question, I'm getting a 55XS LCD RPTV within the next week. It's been a long time comin'. . .
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post #57 of 1413 Old 11-19-2004, 03:36 AM
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I'm getting ready to build A stand for my soon to be new TV "Samsung 5674 "so I have one question. The TV is 49.9 inches wide so I'm going to make the stand 50" wide and the depth of the TV is 19.9". The question I have is what size should I make the depth would 25" be ok? Thank's for any input you all can give.

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post #58 of 1413 Old 11-19-2004, 03:53 AM
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If you are putting components in it, the depth will be dictated by the components, not the the TV. my interior depth, before the face frame is 23". Everything was fine until I bought my new Sony DVD megachanger. That thing is even bigger than my AVR 5700. Don't be afraid to give enough. I never got around to making doors for the components, so it really isn't an issue. If I did, it might be a little tight.

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post #59 of 1413 Old 11-19-2004, 04:57 AM
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Quote:


Originally posted by captain_video
I just saw this thread for the first time today and just skimmed through it to see what was going on. I like that IronHorse is posting photos as he progresses with the project. It's kind of like our own version of the New Yankee Home Theater!

New Yankee Home Theater !!!

This thread is great!! I just started drawing up plans for my own entertainment center, so I am definately going to subscribe to this thread.

I'll post updates as the project progresses.

Kudos to all of you who posted your projects!!
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post #60 of 1413 Old 11-19-2004, 05:12 AM - Thread Starter
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Chet...

Pablopsd is right about tailoring the cabinet to what is in it as well as what goes on it. Look at all your components and note the wiring as well as any knobs that protrude forward of the face plate. I didn't realize the Samy was that deep, so do whatever you have to. I personally don't like too deep a cabinet so I went with 20" because it works with my components and the Mits 62" is only 18" deep. But I'm contemplating a diagonal placement in a corner so the deeper I make the cabinet, the wider the area where it goes gets because I'm hoping to align the leading corners with other cabinets yet to be bought.

I think 25" is pretty deep. You might also want to think about the economy of using a sheet of plywood. For instance, if you went with a 48" X 24" cabinet, you would get that easy from one sheet and have plenty left over for sides and a center bulkhead. Cut the same sheet the other way and you can go 50" by 23½" and you get full yield from the sheet's width with plenty left over for bulkheads. My leftover piece is a nice, clean, roughly 7+" by 8' board with the grain running the same way as the top/nottom. I can use that board for my final drawer front.

So I guess the deal here is to think everything through because once you start cutting, you pretty much have to stay with that direction unless you start all over. BTW, Home Depot does sell "handy panels" which are 24" X 48" X 3/4" birch or MDF.

Quote:


Originally posted by chad2323
I'm getting ready to build A stand for my soon to be new TV "Samsung 5674 "so I have one question. The TV is 49.9 inches wide so I'm going to make the stand 50" wide and the depth of the TV is 19.9". The question I have is what size should I make the depth would 25" be ok? Thank's for any input you all can give.

Chet


Good Luck with the project and don't forget that you have to post your progress here !


Iron Horse

Iron Horse

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