Build You Own (BYO) TV Stand - Page 3 - AVS Forum
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post #61 of 1435 Old 11-19-2004, 08:02 AM
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Well I just measured all my components and the biggest depth was the receiver at about 16". So I guess 20" for the depth would be pretty good?Thank's so much for the help.

Chet
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post #62 of 1435 Old 11-19-2004, 08:08 AM
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ironhorse- Looking good
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post #63 of 1435 Old 11-19-2004, 11:52 AM - Thread Starter
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In my never-ending search for information that might be useful to this thread and AVS members, I thought I'd post this link as a great source for super cool legs, casters, and drawer/door pulls.

http://www.coolknobsandpulls.com/cab...fm?Category=18

Enjoy

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 If God had intended man to watch TV 24/7, he would have given him rabbit ears Â
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post #64 of 1435 Old 11-19-2004, 11:56 AM
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Thanks for the link. If I wanted metal legs, I would just want the simple cylinder legs, but I've never known where to find those locally.
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post #65 of 1435 Old 11-19-2004, 12:12 PM
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Just stack a few dozen milk crates, duct tape em together, voila. Tv stand.
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post #66 of 1435 Old 11-19-2004, 05:32 PM
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Chad,
I really would think of going deeper if you can. Hate to build another next year if you get something that doesn't fit. I never thought I would get something that would be too deep for my cabinet, but that mega changer is HUGE! My Denon AVR 5700 is pretty massive too. I guesss you never know what the future holds.

Pablo
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post #67 of 1435 Old 11-19-2004, 08:44 PM
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pablo is correct. if you're building a stand make sure you make room for future expansion. Several high end receivers are very deep and if you ever would consider seperates, many of them are 20" deep by themselves which means you need somewhere between 22-24 inches deep to handle plugs.
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post #68 of 1435 Old 11-20-2004, 05:52 PM
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Hey Ironhorse and others,
I finally found some pictures of a project that I did. No it's not my house. A customer. We built the whole room and the built in stuff from scratch. I will look for the pictures of my own entertainment center.

Pablo
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post #69 of 1435 Old 11-20-2004, 05:53 PM
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another view
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post #70 of 1435 Old 11-21-2004, 09:21 AM - Thread Starter
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Paul...

Wow. I'm really impressed. I'm going to keep these pix handy because my wife has been asking me for years to flank our living room fireplace with built-in bookshelves with storage cabinets underneath. Its a project for the future. My hongup has always been the blend of the big white mantel moldings into the bookshelfs...but I think what I'd do is sort of build a "column" to either side and work across from there. I like the transition of the cabinets to the raised panel wainscoting... that's really nice.

Well, I brought the rolling box upstairs from the shop yesterday and put the beast on it to see how it looked. The wife was very happy with the size... and the skirt return, although I thought it should be a little higher off the ground. I have to install the other four casters to make sure the weight distribution is OK. The berber carpet is brand new and hopefully 8 casters will not "sink" too far into the carpet. We also finally decided on what color to stain it. Now I just have to trim out the edges, make the shelves, rout out the recess in the back, and get it DONE . But with a holiday week appoaching, little will get done this week.

For those wondering how the Mits 62 looks on the stand, I'm attaching another picture.

EDIT: BTW, note my milk crate stand directly behind the TV.


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post #71 of 1435 Old 11-21-2004, 12:37 PM
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Found a cool stand online I liked. Didn't like the price, so I built my own with $70 worth of wood, stain, paint, screws, and casters.

Here is what I used as a design.
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post #72 of 1435 Old 11-21-2004, 12:48 PM
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toy- got a pic of the completed stand?

ironhorse- looking good. Is there going to be another front panel to the drawer?
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post #73 of 1435 Old 11-21-2004, 03:59 PM
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Here is a stand my cousin helped me build last weekend in his shop for a Sony 55WF655 I had delivered this week. We used a similar design to IronHorse's, but with no draw or doors, and we made a clear pine facing so you don't see any of the plywood edges. We made a back for it, which I left behind by mistake, so when looking at the attached picture, pretend you don't see any wires

-Bruce
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post #74 of 1435 Old 11-21-2004, 04:16 PM
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I don't have step by step pictures, but here are a couple of pcitures that will give you a good idea of how we build the box. for the facing we used biscuits at the bottom and butt joints at the top. The cabinet sits on five wheels.


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post #75 of 1435 Old 11-21-2004, 04:17 PM
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Picture 2
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post #76 of 1435 Old 11-21-2004, 05:05 PM
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Here is one last picture with the Stand/TV flanked by two book cases purchased at Ikea.
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post #77 of 1435 Old 11-21-2004, 05:36 PM
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The stand that is being built is almost identical to the Ikea Eksjo stand (if one discards the aluminum base). This is what I use for my hlp6163; fits perfectly. One can put casters on the bottom if you have carpet, but since mine is on a hardwood floor I use teflon slides (from any hardware store) on the bottom. I also put two wooden strips (front to back) beneath the two verticle partitions (to match the height of those on the left and right edges) to give it added strength. It has six component compartments, each 18" wide and high enough for any standard components. The overall width is 56.5", height 17.5", and depth 18.5"; coasters would make it higher. A nice oak veneer finish. I do not use the frosted glass doors; prefer open component compartments, but they do apparently transmit IR signals if one wishes to use them.
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post #78 of 1435 Old 11-21-2004, 06:14 PM
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bruce- good job. How did you get the outside frame so thick? Did you trim it with 1"x2"s? I like that look of the thicker appearance to the wood.
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post #79 of 1435 Old 11-21-2004, 06:49 PM
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How did you get the outside frame so thick? Did you trim it with 1"x2"s?

Used 6" x 3/4" clear pine boards and cut to a width of 1-1/2" for all but the bottom which is 3-3/4" We also use the clear pine to cover the front of each shelf.
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post #80 of 1435 Old 11-21-2004, 08:51 PM
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I recently purchased a 50" DLP, and before I put it on my old stand I decided to put wheels under the stand. I found the perfect ones in the McMaster Carr catalog.
www.mcmaster.com
part number 9994T91 concealed mount rigid caster, each wheel holds 100 lbs, it comes with a lip that mounts under the side panels, the wheel sits 1'2" lower than the lip, and it disappears into the carpet.
At three bucks each, get as many as you need!
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post #81 of 1435 Old 11-21-2004, 08:55 PM
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Bruce,
Looks real nice. You guys have got me going to build another cabinet for the new TV.
Ironhorse, I can send you some pictures of another room we did for the same job. In that room, the homeowner had a chimney which she wanted to dress up. We built the mantel and fireplace surround along with bookshelves and cabinets below. Won't post here, since not HT related! Don't want to upset anyone. Send me a PM with your email and I will forward if you would like.

Paul

PS Not trying to brag, but I built the room along with the wainscoat and everything you see in the room.
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post #82 of 1435 Old 11-22-2004, 12:26 AM
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60" wide stand, much like IronHorses

Mine is a (wimpy) 52" set, but the 62 would fit ever so sweetly.

Ironhorse. I figured me tossing in my setup couldn't hurt any. I contemplated building a stand, but I really didn't want another project to delay my already suffering Do It Yourself jobs. The stand cost $300 delivered, in a box though. It is press-wood, but very sturdy. I can do some close up pictures if it will assist your door building. Mine has some neat hinges that are spring loaded and allow easy adjusting of the door so it is even in the cabnet.

However, I am in the middle of building some speaker stands for my (wimpy) JBL front speakers. I knocked it out in one evening. I used some shelf brackets (the fancy kind), 4 each for the base, and some 1/2" square stock for the shafts. After some paint, they will look pretty good. and they are the exact hieght I want.


Question: Is it kosher for you to have the center channel so low, but have the side speakers so high?
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post #83 of 1435 Old 11-22-2004, 06:00 AM - Thread Starter
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BB_Mike...

My construction phase is over, so now it's a matter of trimming edges and finishing (stain/urethane). I'm stuck with my design for better or worse, but I'm confident that it'll get the job done and keep everyone happy.

As far as the CC speaker... I'm not that much of an audiophile that it becomes an issue (speaker placement). Convenience is far more important to me !

I tell ya'its been more fun starting this thread and seeing how many members are handy enough to tackle a TV stand... and... how nice they have come out. And the overall idea was to maybe inspire a few more.

Iron Horse

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post #84 of 1435 Old 11-22-2004, 07:19 AM
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Question: Is it kosher for you to have the center channel so low, but have the side speakers so high?

No; nor is having the side speakers behind the center.

I ran the speaker wire inside the wall about 5 years ago whan I was thinking my next TV would be front projection. At that time I decided to put them in a position that would support just about anything.

-Bruce
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post #85 of 1435 Old 11-22-2004, 07:49 AM
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Quote:


Originally posted by BB_Mike

Question: Is it kosher for you to have the center channel so low, but have the side speakers so high?

Like noted above, not really. You typically want all of them in a line and all even (sideways) with the TV. Sound coming from up and down below would not blend seamlessly and ruin the surround experience.
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post #86 of 1435 Old 11-22-2004, 08:00 AM
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You typically want all of them in a line and all even (sideways) with the TV

I read that for the front and center speakers you want them all the same distance from you. That would imply the surrounds should be up a little from the center. As for height, the surrounds should be at the height of your ears. The center can be a bit lower.
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post #87 of 1435 Old 11-22-2004, 08:44 AM
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I've been looking at this forum for about 6 months now, and can't believe my first post is about BYO TV Stands. We bought a 50" GWIV in September and I couldn't stand the open stands they are selling. I think they look pretty good on display but after setting 5-6 components on them, they must look awful. I finally talked my wife into letting me build our stand, and for everyone contemplating doing one themselves, if I can do it, you can too. There's nothing you can do that a sander and a can of wood putty can't fix. I was reading some earlier posts about different casters people have used. I was going to use casters myself, but the ones I wanted were $10 each and I wanted 6. I had some of those magic slides I had bought a year ago and never used and decided to slap those on the bottom. My stand and tv together must go about 200lbs and it does move pretty easy along the carpet. Just a thought if anyone's looking for a cheaper and easier alternative.
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post #88 of 1435 Old 11-22-2004, 09:04 AM
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Quote:


Originally posted by bruce24
You typically want all of them in a line and all even (sideways) with the TV

I read that for the front and center speakers you want them all the same distance from you. That would imply the surrounds should be up a little from the center. As for height, the surrounds should be at the height of your ears. The center can be a bit lower.

Ideally, you want the 2 fronts and center at ear level. So putting a center on the bottom shelf of a TV sound isn't ear level, it's knee level. I have my surrounds up 7' on my back walls. And Dolby actually recommends this too. DIstance isn't as important as ear level. You can add gain to a speaker that's a foot further away to make it match, but you can't compensate for a center channel below ear level. I would think it's better to be above ear level because it can be angled downward onto the listener. Below ear level, it's very hard to not only overcome obstacles, but the listeners feet, couch, etc before it reaches the ears.

Here's from Dolby http://dolby.com/consumer/home_enter...oomlayout.html

Quote:


Ideally, your front speakers, high-frequency drivers, or tweeters should be positioned at ear level (when you're seated). Our recommended height for the surrounds is above ear level, as soundtracks are likely to be optimized for that location.

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post #89 of 1435 Old 11-22-2004, 10:08 AM - Thread Starter
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OK, if the Audiophile Police put out an APB for a violator, it's me. I confess.

My Bose cubes are mounted to the ceiling in the front corner of the room, and of course they can be "aimed" (up/down & side to side) being on double swivel brackets. The bose rear speakers are on stands at ear level next to the outside wall (about 20' away) and behind the sofa. My "crime" will be putting the center channel under the TV, but I honestly think I'll be able to hear it from about 16' away. The sub will go anyplace I tell it to and that'll work just fine.

But seriously, life is a compromise and while the purist might scoff at my setup, I don't think I'm in the minority as far as having less than optimized placement of speakers, people, and TV... not to mention equipment. But in the simplest terms... my setup will be better than just listening to the Mits built-in speakers, or at least to my ears it will.

Iron Horse
Audiophile Scofflaw

p.s. hope you guys don't mind me having a little fun.

Iron Horse

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post #90 of 1435 Old 11-22-2004, 10:12 AM
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ironhorse- it's no big deal. End result is what you like or are limited to. I just chimed in for those who may not know the basic guidelines.
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