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post #1111 of 1415 Old 05-08-2010, 05:53 PM
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Here are some updated photos of my avion. I'll have to remake one of the adjustable shelves due to a ball bearing falling off my bit on my router when I was in the middle of using it as a template...I fixed the small problem it caused, but it's not perfect. At least you won't be able to see it and I have enough plywood to make another board quickly. I will be putting on the edging tomorrow and remake the adj shelf. After that I just gotta wait for the stain to come in the mail so I can go ahead and stain the unit before putting the top on; at least that's what sounds good to me anyways. What do you guys think? Install the top and then stain, or wait since I have everything open right now? Anyways, here are the pics.






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post #1112 of 1415 Old 05-10-2010, 07:01 PM
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Just installed the top tonight and veneer edged 2 sides of the top. I only did 2 because I was exhausted work today and nervous about routing the groove on the top, which worked out great, but very nervous after the small problem I had with the bottom groove. I was able to get the groove exactly how I wanted and the sliding panels work great. Just need to smooth out the grooves and panels by hand with sand paper and it'll slide like silk.
Will veneer the other 2 sides tomorrow as well as the front doors. Well here are the pics so far.

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post #1113 of 1415 Old 05-10-2010, 07:09 PM
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Looking great, Rain.

"The dream never dies, just the dreamer."

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post #1114 of 1415 Old 05-13-2010, 06:57 AM
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Hey all. Just an update today with no pictures. I have to vent a little because I made a mistake that I didn't know I made till it was too late. I didn't realize veneer edging could actually throw you mesaurements off enough to make you re-do the entire front panel doors... Since I'm trying to replicate the Avion, the bottom middle front door will be a drop down door. The complication is that the door has to be flush to the bottom of the unit so when you open the door, it'll actually be a flat surface. Well, the veneer actually threw off my measurements by 1/8" in total, which made it impossible to attach the top middle door to the actual drawer (it was hitting the top panel and wouldn't fit). (I couldn't trim either piece since they were already veneered and trimming it meant unbalanced look to the side doors, which are fine as is). So I spent the entire evening remaking both middle doors to accomodate the veneering difference.
Well, at least tonight I'll be pre-drilling all the holes for attaching the hinges and door hardware, veneer the 4 doors, and hopefully have enough time to test stain a test board to see what it could look like in the end.
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post #1115 of 1415 Old 05-13-2010, 07:28 AM - Thread Starter
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Every once in a while I come back here to look at all the awesome home-made TV stands. I am so happy that I started this thread... it looks like its helped hundreds to make the plunge and build something... whether or not they had wood shops or extensive tools. Keep it up guys!

Mike

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post #1116 of 1415 Old 05-13-2010, 07:49 AM
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Trust me, without this thread, I would have never had the balls to make my entertainment center. Thank you for the inspiration for my first ever major wood project. =) My only other woodcraft of any type was a decent bookcase using only a $20 hand dremel tool and a jig saw on a 2nd floor of an apartment. =) Now that I have a house with room, I took the plunge to make the Avion center, with SilverFX's inspiration for actually making one himself with his own twist. We'll see how the stain turns out...I've heard horror stories about the staining ruining their masterpiece...so I'll be testing, testing, testing. =)
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post #1117 of 1415 Old 05-13-2010, 08:24 AM
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I had not heard about the Avion stand until you started building yours and I have to say I really like it. After building the stand I posted earlier in the thread I need another one for my recently finished basement. Being it is going in the basement I can build whatever I want and don't have to worry about matching other stuff like the last one. I am leaning towards following your lead, or SilverFX's in this case.

I have to say though, you sure used alot of screws to connect the side panels

- Eric
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post #1118 of 1415 Old 05-13-2010, 08:33 AM
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Yeah, and I'm glad I did. There was a very slight "bowing" effect the panels had when i was screwing them in, so all those screws are actually flattening out the panels and keeping it square. I believe SilverFX's had 8. I only have 7. =)
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post #1119 of 1415 Old 05-13-2010, 12:56 PM
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Thanks for stopping in IronHorse, without you my living room TV would be on cinder blocks.

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post #1120 of 1415 Old 05-13-2010, 08:29 PM
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Hey all. I was able to finally make some progress. I finished the remake of the front middle doors and they fit perfectly now. I did have to trim 1/16" off both sides of the side-doors so I could veneer it and not stick out on the sides. I finally was able to begin pre-dilling the holes for the hinges and handles. As you can see, I was using a template to drill the holes and it worked great. Next objective is to finished pre-drilling the doors and cabinet for the hinges as well as the drop-flap hinge and soft-drop flap.


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post #1121 of 1415 Old 05-14-2010, 09:44 AM
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I built a custom stand for my new Panasonic Tc-P54G25 plasma. We built a gaming/HTPC and kind of centered the design around making a good space for it. Nothing in stores fit our needs so I took the plunge, got a table saw & some router bits and went to work!

The stand is made out of sapele plywood and hardwood with a pure dewaxed shellac finish. I cut notches on the center-edges in the shelves and bottom to run power cables and holes in the back protected with rubber grommets for video. Grommets are freaking hard to find! I got some free sample

Anyways, it's not perfect, but I'm the only one who knows where the flaws are and I'm takin' the knowledge to the GRAVE

BTW - moonhawk - I REALLY liked your oak/walnut stand, very clean and professional looking.





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post #1122 of 1415 Old 05-14-2010, 10:35 AM
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Nice and simple, I like it.

- Eric
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post #1123 of 1415 Old 05-14-2010, 12:04 PM - Thread Starter
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NOAMattD... Nice piece of work! All our stands have little secrets LOL!

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post #1124 of 1415 Old 05-16-2010, 05:36 PM
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Hey all. It's been a few days, but I ran out of veneer due to my mistake earlier in the project and just realizing it near the end of the veneer. Well, I decided to make the legs and test stain a scrap panel and I need help! How do you get a flat, smooth spray paint on wood without the grain showing? Was I supposed to do something else? I definitely need help as you can see the legs didn't turn out so well. If i Just need to keep putting on multiple coats till its' smooth, then I'm o.k with that. I have time to keep putting on more. =) Now, as for the stain, I don't know if you can see it in the picture, but there's a rather LARGE round spot in the middle of the board; faint, but it's there. Do you call that splotching or is that something else? I followed the procedure of sanding my final grit, used distilled water to raise the grain, then stained after completely dry. (using Homestead Transfast Dye). If you could give me an idea of what that spot could be, I'd appreciate it. And so, here's my progress photos.



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post #1125 of 1415 Old 05-16-2010, 10:29 PM
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[quote=NOAMattD;18633039]I built a custom stand for my new Panasonic Tc-P54G25 plasma. We built a gaming/HTPC and kind of centered the design around making a good space for it. Nothing in stores fit our needs so I took the plunge, got a table saw & some router bits and went to work!

The stand is made out of sapele plywood and hardwood with a pure dewaxed shellac finish. I cut notches on the center-edges in the shelves and bottom to run power cables and holes in the back protected with rubber grommets for video. Grommets are freaking hard to find! I got some free sample

Anyways, it's not perfect, but I'm the only one who knows where the flaws are and I'm takin' the knowledge to the GRAVE

BTW - moonhawk - I REALLY liked your oak/walnut stand, very clean and professional looking.

Very nice!

Kagolu
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post #1126 of 1415 Old 05-16-2010, 10:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rain2 View Post

Hey all. It's been a few days, but I ran out of veneer due to my mistake earlier in the project and just realizing it near the end of the veneer. Well, I decided to make the legs and test stain a scrap panel and I need help! How do you get a flat, smooth spray paint on wood without the grain showing? Was I supposed to do something else? I definitely need help as you can see the legs didn't turn out so well. If i Just need to keep putting on multiple coats till its' smooth, then I'm o.k with that. I have time to keep putting on more. =) Now, as for the stain, I don't know if you can see it in the picture, but there's a rather LARGE round spot in the middle of the board; faint, but it's there. Do you call that splotching or is that something else? I followed the procedure of sanding my final grit, used distilled water to raise the grain, then stained after completely dry. (using Homestead Transfast Dye). If you could give me an idea of what that spot could be, I'd appreciate it. And so, here's my progress photos.
[

IMO I think you need to use a much finer(getting there in steps) grit as a final step, especially with pine.
Here is some good info as well: http://www.josephfusco.org/Articles/...tch_Stain.html

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post #1127 of 1415 Old 05-17-2010, 12:28 PM
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I'm using 220 grit sand paper as my final step. I've read in many places it's not necessary to go any further due to the wood being Maple. The only reason is looks kind of rough is because I forgot to lightly sand the raised grain before applying the stain, but I can't imagine the raised grain would cause something like that, would it? I'm still going to get a water-based preconditioner from Home Depot and see how that works compared to normal distilled water, as preferred by the company that makes the Dye. Will let everyone know how it turns out. Thanx for the advice.
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post #1128 of 1415 Old 05-17-2010, 03:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rain2 View Post

I'm using 220 grit sand paper as my final step. I've read in many places it's not necessary to go any further due to the wood being Maple. The only reason is looks kind of rough is because I forgot to lightly sand the raised grain before applying the stain, but I can't imagine the raised grain would cause something like that, would it? I'm still going to get a water-based preconditioner from Home Depot and see how that works compared to normal distilled water, as preferred by the company that makes the Dye. Will let everyone know how it turns out. Thanx for the advice.

Check out the link I posted. Ive done the same thing with tung oil with good results, much better than the conditioner route. Let us know how it works out.

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post #1129 of 1415 Old 05-17-2010, 08:10 PM
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You know what, I did check out your link, but I ended up buying the water-based conditioner...and didn't think about the shellac...I'll have to go back and get that since I've seen the difference on the web page. It'll take more coats, but even staining is what I'm concerned about. Thanx for reminding me.
Oh, as for the legs, I've been priming it with a Kilnz Latex primer and seems to be doing pretty well. I'm on my 5th coat to try to get rid of the wood grain look. I'm almost tempted to just dump a bucket of primer over it and let whatever stays dry on there to get an even smooth coat. =) Well, a few more coats and I'm sure I can finally spray paint it chrome to get a metallic look for the legs. Hopefully it turns out well. Will post pics of the shellac and staining tomorrow.
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post #1130 of 1415 Old 05-17-2010, 08:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rain2 View Post

You know what, I did check out your link, but I ended up buying the water-based conditioner...and didn't think about the shellac...I'll have to go back and get that since I've seen the difference on the web page. It'll take more coats, but even staining is what I'm concerned about. Thanx for reminding me.
Oh, as for the legs, I've been priming it with a Kilnz Latex primer and seems to be doing pretty well. I'm on my 5th coat to try to get rid of the wood grain look. I'm almost tempted to just dump a bucket of primer over it and let whatever stays dry on there to get an even smooth coat. =) Well, a few more coats and I'm sure I can finally spray paint it chrome to get a metallic look for the legs. Hopefully it turns out well. Will post pics of the shellac and staining tomorrow.

Glad to help, looking forward to the pics!

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post #1131 of 1415 Old 05-18-2010, 06:58 PM
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Here's another bad update on my BYO Avion. I just can't get the stain right. I bought the Zinsser Sealcoat as it is a 2# dewaxed shellac as stated in the link I got (well, not the full shellac, but it is 2# and recommended for a Polyurthane [spelling?] top-coat) and I got a very bad result as you can see. So far, it looks like the Minwax wood conditioner is doing a pretty good job, at least in photo; I can still see some blotching in the wood, but it is definitely smaller than the other 3 tests. What do you guys think? Am I doing something wrong? Am I not sanding well enough after applying the wood conditioner ? I'm using 320 grit paper after applying the seal-coat before staining. Any ideas? Or should I just go with the Minwax?
Well, beyond the staining, I was able to get the pocket holes filled with the maple pocket hole fillers. Takes a lot of work to get them to be smooth, but it looks very nice afterwards and will stain just the same after I'm done figuring out how to stain... =)


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post #1132 of 1415 Old 05-19-2010, 05:26 AM
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Good Morning all,
Just tried to do something different with the sealcoat this morning by sanding the sheen off of the shellac after the 15 minute drying time and then added the stain; didn't do any better than the first time around. Adding a 2nd coat of stain to the Minwax-conditioned board made it look pretty good; might put a top-coat on it to see the end-result, although it looks like it's blocking some of the grain of the wood, so I'm not sure, but we'll see.
I think I'll give the sealcoat one more shot by getting some Denatured Alchohol and follow the instructions on the can, instead of the website. It'll probably reduce the shellac to a 1# and maybe that'll help let the stain through the shellac a little better, but we'll see. I 'll try that tonight, but here's the results of my test this morning.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by rain2 View Post

Good Morning all,
Just tried to do something different with the sealcoat this morning by sanding the sheen off of the shellac after the 15 minute drying time and then added the stain; didn't do any better than the first time around. Adding a 2nd coat of stain to the Minwax-conditioned board made it look pretty good; might put a top-coat on it to see the end-result, although it looks like it's blocking some of the grain of the wood, so I'm not sure, but we'll see.
I think I'll give the sealcoat one more shot by getting some Denatured Alchohol and follow the instructions on the can, instead of the website. It'll probably reduce the shellac to a 1# and maybe that'll help let the stain through the shellac a little better, but we'll see. I 'll try that tonight, but here's the results of my test this morning.

Are you using water or oil based stain over the shellac?

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post #1134 of 1415 Old 05-19-2010, 05:29 PM
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I'm using a water based Dye (Homestead Transfast Dye - Cherry).
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post #1135 of 1415 Old 05-19-2010, 08:55 PM
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Well, I couldn't get too much done tonight, but I was able to test the 50:50 solution of denatured alchohol and Seal Coat. It definitely went on more smoothly, but still not perfect; it may be just because of the first coat, so we'll see in the morning when I put on the 2nd coat. And I also put on the top-coat on the other 3 test boards to see how they would turn out. Can't really tell right now since they aren't fully dry, so I'll find out in the morning. Hopefully all goes well, so I can finally begin staining....got a lot of work ahead of me tomorrow and hopefully I'll be to the point where all I need to do is stain. =) That would be nice. Will update then.
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post #1136 of 1415 Old 05-19-2010, 09:23 PM
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I may be wrong but if your using water based stain you can only use it with water based poly. I think you may want to try a base of shellac, sand, use an oil based stain(1 or more coats) then use shellac, tung oil(my choice, and I prefer satin wipe on) or poly(I prefer wipe on as well) as a finish.

Its a pain I know but when you get it right you'll realize it was worth the effort and you'll have a piece you'll be happy with for years to come. Don't get discouraged.

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post #1137 of 1415 Old 05-20-2010, 01:42 AM
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I have a quick question about materials. I noticed that people have been using 3/4" ply for the exterior. I'm trying to build a unit I have 2 options I have drawn up and I am trying to keep the cost down as low as possible (without using cinderblocks ). 1st option is a 3 box unit at ~60" x 18" the 2nd option is building 3 60" shelves mounting those to the wall and using some sort poles to catch the weight on the front side.

Is it possible to build the outer walls of the box with 1/2" ply or is there another material like 3/4" particle board that would work?

Thanks for the help!
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post #1138 of 1415 Old 05-20-2010, 03:43 AM
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NOAMattD; A outstanding job. One of the best I have seen here. Norm would be jealous.

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post #1139 of 1415 Old 05-20-2010, 05:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kagolu View Post

I may be wrong but if your using water based stain you can only use it with water based poly. I think you may want to try a base of shellac, sand, use an oil based stain(1 or more coats) then use shellac, tung oil(my choice, and I prefer satin wipe on) or poly(I prefer wipe on as well) as a finish.

Its a pain I know but when you get it right you'll realize it was worth the effort and you'll have a piece you'll be happy with for years to come. Don't get discouraged.

Well, I read in many places that using a water based poly will make the water-based stain "bleed", so all the sites I've visited stated to use an oil-based and even got recommendation from Woodcraft to use oil over water to protect the stain since they can't mix.

Now here's one thing I was thinking about on my way to work, since this is made out of plywood and the Maple portion is only 1/4" thick, will the shellac pretty much be covering the entire surface?? I know plywood and regular wood absorb stains at a much different rate with the plywood absoring much more to become darker (and possibly show more blotching)...just a thought.

As for this morning, I did add a 2nd and 3rd coat of stain on the 1:1 DNA and Seal-Coat test board. Looks 'o.k.' but still not as good as I was expecting. Maybe I'm not sanding well enough after it dries for 15 minutes? Should I be sanding as much as I was trying to sand the surface smooth before adding the shellac? I'm almost tempted to just tint the shellac with my dye (if I am able to mix) and let that be my stain, then coat with poly for top-coat. Another option is to go back to distilled water and sand VERY well after it dries, dilute my current dye to make it lighter and try that. I never imagined it would take this much work to get the stain right. It's actually worse than making the entire unit! Will try more and more tonight. Hopefully I have enough scrap wood to continue testing or I'm in trouble....
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post #1140 of 1415 Old 05-20-2010, 03:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rain2 View Post

Well, I read in many places that using a water based poly will make the water-based stain "bleed", so all the sites I've visited stated to use an oil-based and even got recommendation from Woodcraft to use oil over water to protect the stain since they can't mix.

Now here's one thing I was thinking about on my way to work, since this is made out of plywood and the Maple portion is only 1/4" thick, will the shellac pretty much be covering the entire surface?? I know plywood and regular wood absorb stains at a much different rate with the plywood absoring much more to become darker (and possibly show more blotching)...just a thought.

As for this morning, I did add a 2nd and 3rd coat of stain on the 1:1 DNA and Seal-Coat test board. Looks 'o.k.' but still not as good as I was expecting. Maybe I'm not sanding well enough after it dries for 15 minutes? Should I be sanding as much as I was trying to sand the surface smooth before adding the shellac? I'm almost tempted to just tint the shellac with my dye (if I am able to mix) and let that be my stain, then coat with poly for top-coat. Another option is to go back to distilled water and sand VERY well after it dries, dilute my current dye to make it lighter and try that. I never imagined it would take this much work to get the stain right. It's actually worse than making the entire unit! Will try more and more tonight. Hopefully I have enough scrap wood to continue testing or I'm in trouble....

I would try an oil based stain I think that may be the problem. Sounds like your doing every other step well.

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