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post #1381 of 1408 Old 09-02-2013, 05:52 PM
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I thought I would save money and do it myself. However, wood is really expensive, and I could not bare to look at my shoddy workmanship every night!

I found someone that has made these, and have asked for a price for something similar but adding a shelf to hold the centre speaker (I apologise for the sketches, I done them at work while no one was looking)

P1070011.jpg 103k .jpg file

P1050054.jpg 129k .jpg file

DSC_0586.jpg 935k .jpg file

Ive asked for sides and a back panel to try and keep the cables tidy. The concern is that it will get hot. I asked if the back panel could have many small drilled holes to allow ventilation but he wasn't sure on the idea.

DSC_0590.jpg 912k .jpg file


Does anyone have any examples of this? And do you think it would allow for adequate ventilation?


Thanks
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post #1382 of 1408 Old 09-03-2013, 07:19 PM
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If you are putting your center speaker over the receiver on a shelf I would say no the holes in the back won't be sufficient. What I did was install 2 cooling fans directly above my receiver and behind the center speaker through a cutout in the shelf.
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post #1383 of 1408 Old 09-03-2013, 08:04 PM
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Thanks for the reply, really appreciated.

Yep, I think the receiver below the speaker would look the best.

I am aware that my receiver can get pretty warm (onkyo nr515), so I have made sure with my dimensions that there is enough room around it, but I am still concerned.

I did consider that if the back panel didn't work, I could cut a bigger hole out and attach a usb powered fan (or two!).

I am now wondering if there is an alternative product / material that I could use for the back, i.e metal mesh???
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post #1384 of 1408 Old 09-03-2013, 08:28 PM
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I also have an Onkyo that runs hot, been in use everyday for 4 plus years with only 1 inch of space above. But I have the cooling fans and the back at the receiver only is open, too many wires out the rear to have it closed anyway. My fans are plugged into a smart strip controlled by my TV, TV on, fan on my TV has a fan that runs for a few minutes after shut down so it continues to cool my AVR after it's been shut down.
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post #1385 of 1408 Old 09-16-2013, 12:03 PM
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Anyone have any clue how to go about doing the middle floating glass shelf in the cabinet below? I just feel like even .5" tempered glass would shatter if only supported on one of its edges.
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post #1386 of 1408 Old 09-16-2013, 03:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yomike007 View Post

Anyone have any clue how to go about doing the middle floating glass shelf in the cabinet below? I just feel like even .5" tempered glass would shatter if only supported on one of its edges.

The tempered glass isn't the issue, it's the system supporting it. If it's not strong,rigid and holds the glass like a vise it will sag depending on the weight of the item placed on it and the weight of the glass.
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post #1387 of 1408 Old 09-17-2013, 04:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by colour View Post

The tempered glass isn't the issue, it's the system supporting it. If it's not strong,rigid and holds the glass like a vise it will sag depending on the weight of the item placed on it and the weight of the glass.
H
There has to be support at the rear. Not sure why you're interpreting photo without support. A floating shelf, if incorporated would be in front, not the back.
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post #1388 of 1408 Old 09-17-2013, 05:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by billybobg View Post

H
There has to be support at the rear. Not sure why you're interpreting photo without support. A floating shelf, if incorporated would be in front, not the back.

You have no clue what you're saying, where did I say it didn't have a support? I said just the opposite. Looking at the pic provided the end shelves are supported on the sides and the middle shelf you can't see how it's supported.
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post #1389 of 1408 Old 09-17-2013, 06:10 AM
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Cool down I really didn't mean to cause an issue. Sorry I misread your post. The TV in the pic is near an edge and tempered glass is strong. They could have either made a dado or used shelf brackets. I've stacked a lot of dishes on tempered glass with no issues, though the span in the pic is larger than moat cabinets . Newer tvs do not weigh very much and I suspect glass would hold many units.

Sorry you took my earlier post so hard.

Edit: I just looked at the photo on a desktop and it appears that there are supports going from front to back to hold the glass. At .5 inches the glass will support quite a bit. It is not solely supported by the front, IMO.
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post #1390 of 1408 Old 09-17-2013, 07:06 AM
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The picture is so small, that it's tough to draw too many conclusions from it... But it looks like there's at least a black panel in the back starting about 1/4 of the width from the left. It also looks like there are black vertical dividers (front to back) at 1/3 and 2/3 of the cabinet width. So they probably cut dado's in the front finished board, the vertical dividers, and the rear panel and slide the glass into them. It doesn't strike me as something I'd want to trust supporting expensive gear on (and the design isn't really to my taste anyway), though it would be interesting to see what sort of weight they rate the shelves for.
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post #1391 of 1408 Old 01-26-2014, 08:23 AM
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I am thinking of building my own Salamander Synergy clone.
Does anyone know what thread size is used by Salamander?
I am thinking of buying their Leveler Feet since they look nicer than anything else I found online.

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post #1392 of 1408 Old 02-15-2014, 02:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ski2slow View Post

I am thinking of building my own Salamander Synergy clone.
Does anyone know what thread size is used by Salamander?
I am thinking of buying their Leveler Feet since they look nicer than anything else I found online.

The 80/20 15 series aluminum framing they use has a 5/16-18 thread size. The top bolts are all 5/16-18 joint connector bolts. The feet, I assume, are the same thread size.

Here is the user's manual which details the part numbers. You can call or email Salamander Designs and order the parts.

http://www.salamanderdesigns.com/products/download_items_file/manual_sq_500935.pdf

http://www.salamanderdesigns.com/products/details/a5300392-0b36-5796-b0ba-5125e24f9434

Yes, I found out they are indeed 5/16"-18 threads.

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post #1393 of 1408 Old 03-24-2014, 12:01 AM
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Hi I want to build a simple and cheap TV cart for my temporary residence. Here are my basic needs.

Length 84 inches
Width: 18 inches
Height 10 Inches.

The card in going to have 3 compartment. As pictured in my bad schematic below. I was wondering is it possible to get to ply wood board cut to specification and to make top and base and adding support panels in bettween?


The cart is going to hold a 60 lb TV and two 15lb bookshelf speakers. I have no carpenting experience but will this simple design work?

I'd like the cart to have a dark cherry wood finish any paint people recc'd? Also any plywood you recc;d? I'm looking for something to last me about a year only. Thanks!

Thanks!

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! ..........Reciever ...........!.........Center Channel..........!.........HTPC..............!
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post #1394 of 1408 Old 03-24-2014, 05:55 AM
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I figured I will show mine. It's about 90% done. I searched for my needs all over the net and either it's was too expensive or not fitting everything I needed. This thread gave me the inspiration to build my own. I have woodworking skills but just did not feel like a project.

The stand is 85 wide X 26 tall X 21 3/4 deep. The tv on there now is my sons 42" just for fitting purposes. My 60" Sony will be going there instead. I have a 100" motorized projector screen that will come down in front of the Sony. That is not its spot where it's going just out of the way while working on it.


photo-1.jpg
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post #1395 of 1408 Old 03-24-2014, 06:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluer101 View Post

I figured I will show mine. It's about 90% done. I searched for my needs all over the net and either it's was too expensive or not fitting everything I needed. This thread gave me the inspiration to build my own. I have woodworking skills but just did not feel like a project.

The stand is 85 wide X 26 tall X 21 3/4 deep. The tv on there now is my sons 42" just for fitting purposes. My 60" Sony will be going there instead. I have a 100" motorized projector screen that will come down in front of the Sony. That is not its spot where it's going just out of the way while working on it.


photo-1.jpg

Very nice!!.... Oak?

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post #1396 of 1408 Old 03-24-2014, 09:24 AM
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Very nice!!.... Oak?

Yes.
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post #1397 of 1408 Old 04-10-2014, 09:37 AM
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All finished.

photo1-4.jpg

AC37B3E9-7282-4E56-84F6-14845329CCE6.jpg
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post #1398 of 1408 Old 04-13-2014, 07:08 PM
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Nice job! smile.gif
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Originally Posted by bluer101 View Post

All finished.

photo1-4.jpg

AC37B3E9-7282-4E56-84F6-14845329CCE6.jpg

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post #1399 of 1408 Old 04-13-2014, 07:20 PM
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Originally Posted by bluer101 View Post

All finished.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
photo1-4.jpg

AC37B3E9-7282-4E56-84F6-14845329CCE6.jpg


It looks fantastic!

I really love your HDTV / PJ screen combo, but If I have to pick one.........I'll go with the badass pull down screen.

Congrats!!!
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post #1400 of 1408 Old 04-15-2014, 10:19 AM
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Thanks, here is build thread. http://www.avsforum.com/t/1526213/tv-projector-screen-console-build/0_60#post_24605631

This is all completed with screen valance.

5D058234-923E-4DAA-AA5B-699520D7E46A.jpg
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post #1401 of 1408 Old 07-01-2014, 12:02 PM
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Holy resurrection, Batman!

Ok guys, I need some help/advice. I've recently finished my DIY stand (first attempt at something like this) and it actually turned out better than I had expected for my first attempt. Now, one of the finishing touches I wanted to do was to add a drawer for storage. In there lies the problem, likely due to my inexperience...so that is why I turn to the experts. What would be my best/practical option (for my skill level) as far as building and mounting a drawer? Just want it to be flush with the front of the extrusions.

Some visual aidon't mind the dust :P

1.

2.

3.


Let me know if additional info is needed.
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post #1402 of 1408 Old 07-01-2014, 01:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shape of Grey View Post
Holy resurrection, Batman!

Ok guys, I need some help/advice. I've recently finished my DIY stand (first attempt at something like this) and it actually turned out better than I had expected for my first attempt. Now, one of the finishing touches I wanted to do was to add a drawer for storage. In there lies the problem, likely due to my inexperience...so that is why I turn to the experts. What would be my best/practical option (for my skill level) as far as building and mounting a drawer? Just want it to be flush with the front of the extrusions.

Some visual aidon't mind the dust :P

1.

2.

3.


Let me know if additional info is needed.
Add a middle shelf. Get drawer slides that fit under drawers and build boxes for the drawers. Cut drawer fronts to match the openings and attach. This method relieves you from building cabinet sides.
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post #1403 of 1408 Old 07-01-2014, 02:17 PM
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Add a middle shelf. Get drawer slides that fit under drawers and build boxes for the drawers. Cut drawer fronts to match the openings and attach. This method relieves you from building cabinet sides.
Sorry I should have probably explained a little better. There already is a middle shelf (you can see the shelf brackets in the pix) I just took it out to open things up for diagrams. The biggest issue I'm having is how/where to mount drawer slides; and what time of slides to use.
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post #1404 of 1408 Old 07-01-2014, 08:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shape of Grey View Post
Sorry I should have probably explained a little better. There already is a middle shelf (you can see the shelf brackets in the pix) I just took it out to open things up for diagrams. The biggest issue I'm having is how/where to mount drawer slides; and what time of slides to use.
Undermount drawer slides.
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post #1405 of 1408 Old 07-08-2014, 10:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shape of Grey View Post
Holy resurrection, Batman!

Ok guys, I need some help/advice. I've recently finished my DIY stand (first attempt at something like this) and it actually turned out better than I had expected for my first attempt. Now, one of the finishing touches I wanted to do was to add a drawer for storage. In there lies the problem, likely due to my inexperience...so that is why I turn to the experts. What would be my best/practical option (for my skill level) as far as building and mounting a drawer? Just want it to be flush with the front of the extrusions.

Some visual aidon't mind the dust :P

1.

2.

3.


Let me know if additional info is needed.
I would add rollers under the bottom shelf and roll it out. There may be extrusion accessories that you can use as rails to attach to the extrusion itself.

I have a question on the shelf pegs. Where did you get them from? I have not been able to find these online at all. The ones from extrusion manufacturers does not look nice at all.
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post #1406 of 1408 Old 07-09-2014, 04:10 AM
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I have a question on the shelf pegs. Where did you get them from? I have not been able to find these online at all. The ones from extrusion manufacturers does not look nice at all.
The shelf pegs can be ordered from Salamander.
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post #1407 of 1408 Old 07-09-2014, 08:14 AM
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The shelf pegs can be ordered from Salamander.
Yup, that's where i got them from. I bought a hardware kit which contained feet that screw into extrusions, shelf pegs (3 set), the top fastening bolts, as well as rear faceting bolts for the backer. All together was $42 shipped.
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post #1408 of 1408 Old 07-09-2014, 09:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shape of Grey View Post
Holy resurrection, Batman!

Ok guys, I need some help/advice. I've recently finished my DIY stand (first attempt at something like this) and it actually turned out better than I had expected for my first attempt. Now, one of the finishing touches I wanted to do was to add a drawer for storage. In there lies the problem, likely due to my inexperience...so that is why I turn to the experts. What would be my best/practical option (for my skill level) as far as building and mounting a drawer? Just want it to be flush with the front of the extrusions.

Some visual aidon't mind the dust :P

1.
3.


Let me know if additional info is needed.
You can always add one piece of the 80/20 1515 from front to back with a T-Connector and then mount some ball bearing soft close drawer slides (Home Depot or Lowes). Then the top shelf can be adjusted to sit just over the top of the drawer to hide it.

You can use these to make 90 degree angles with the 15 series extrusion.


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