Build You Own (BYO) TV Stand - Page 7 - AVS Forum
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Old 12-03-2004, 02:09 PM
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Great thread folks!
I have been toying with an idea for my 60" Sammy DLP and thought some of you with more knowledge could hlep. I was thinking of building a series of floating shelves for the tv and components with a thin box down one side of them for wires. It would almost look like they were floating off a thin piece of wood. My question is, can I make a floating shelf that can hold the set and is large enough without completely tearing the wall apart to attach to the studs?
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Old 12-03-2004, 06:14 PM - Thread Starter
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Newfpond...

I spent most of my (real) career in marketing and R & D, and I've always said "I can make and elephant fly... provided you are willing to spend the money!"

But seriously, you're looking at cantilevering roughly 175-200 pounds (shelf & TV) off the wall, so whatever you do it has to be built to handle that a n a bit more for safety. So here's how you do it:

1. You find a good welding shop and have them fabricate L-Shaped 1/4" steel brackets. Your "leg" dimension would probably be around 20" (both up and out), and the width would probably be 3" on the upright leg, and maybe the short dimension could be 1½". You have the welder box these legs (say four) together so you have a rigid L-Skeleton structure that can be screwed into the wall studs with lag bolts.

2. Then you build a perfect "sleeve" out of wood and have it attach to the structural frame from under the shelf. So maybe it protrudes 3" or 4" into the room at the base, but the illusion is there.

It's not totally crazy. As long as you're beefy enough in the steel frame and use big 1/4" lags (maybe 3" long), it should more than hold the set. The cool thing would be to build the sleeve extra wide and put your speakers outboard.
LL

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Old 12-03-2004, 07:03 PM
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Not sure how to attach images, so I'll post a link to it-

http://gallery.avsforum.com/data/506/7450001newtv.jpg

That's a photoshop job I did putting in the JVC I'm thinking about getting. My CC will have to go above the set on some type of shelf. I'm not saying this i how it will be because my wife liked IronHorse's idea. I'd have to remove my recess lighting, but I just wanted some more input based on the area with the set in place more or less. Also, I went with a dark brown as a possibility and I don't think that would look good, too dark. So, I'm not sure which way to go, wall color or slightly lighter or a lighter stain? If the shelf is floating not sure what color that would be, or if i went with Iron's idea, not sure how empty the sides would be and if I should then make it more and add more frame/structure to it. If so, what would I do with the speakers?
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Old 12-03-2004, 11:44 PM
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Hey Hey!

Thanks, Iron, for the links - there's some stuff on those sites that I'd love to have. I'll have to experiment with plugs in the future.

Well, I'm finally done and more importantly I got my TV!!!!!! I've been having a great time building but there's definitely satisfaction in having it done. Very fun, but it sort of consumes you when you're doing a project like this - know what I mean?

So, I'm interested to see what you guys think. I, personally, give myself two thumbs up.


Check it out:

http://gallery.avsforum.com/showphot...sort=1&cat=500

http://gallery.avsforum.com/showphot...sort=1&cat=500
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Old 12-04-2004, 02:14 AM
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NewfPond,
I agree with Ironhorse with the design idea. You will definitely need the strength of the steel. Anything you tried like that with just wood will sag over time, if it doesn't break first! Hey, I'm in MA too. If you are close, I can help you out... free of charge!
(be careful though, Ironhorse is a Yankee fan. )

Spiff, looks great. Nice finish. What did you end up using?

Wife is taking baby this morning, so it looks like I will make a run to get some cherry stock, and try to start my new stand today.

Pablo
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Old 12-04-2004, 08:24 AM
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I used minwax sedona red stain (2 coats) and then their fast drying polyurethane (3 coats). I was trying to acheive a rosewood kind of look. I got close, but not quite.

I get to watch the Big XII Championship tonight in Hi-Def - I'm very excited!
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Old 12-04-2004, 08:29 AM - Thread Starter
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Red...

So your wife likes my suggestion? All those interior design courses did pay off ! Thank you Prof Beckmann of Cooper Union.

OK, I was going for the integrated look, but I had a limited view and time so I probably didn't finish. From the angle of the shot you provided, it looked like the high hats were inside the invisible line from cabinet edge to cabinet edge, so I figured you move them and put them in the drop ceiling. And like I said... I would probably carry that drop effect across the entire structure into the shelves.

As far as the CC shelf goes, you could float it with the right hardware, or you could bridge the TV from bookshelf to bookshelf. Ahhh... I'll give you 30 minutes and here's what I got .


Quote:


Originally posted by Kid Red
Not sure how to attach images, so I'll post a link to it-

http://gallery.avsforum.com/data/506/7450001newtv.jpg

That's a photoshop job I did putting in the JVC I'm thinking about getting. My CC will have to go above the set on some type of shelf. I'm not saying this i how it will be because my wife liked IronHorse's idea. I'd have to remove my recess lighting, but I just wanted some more input based on the area with the set in place more or less. Also, I went with a dark brown as a possibility and I don't think that would look good, too dark. So, I'm not sure which way to go, wall color or slightly lighter or a lighter stain? If the shelf is floating not sure what color that would be, or if i went with Iron's idea, not sure how empty the sides would be and if I should then make it more and add more frame/structure to it. If so, what would I do with the speakers?

Yeah, I know... too much time on my hands. OK, I have to get busy on my saturday projects now.
LL

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Old 12-04-2004, 09:33 AM
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Ironhorse,
Looks like you want to keep Red busy with his Saturday projects too. LOL

Pablo
PS Looks good BTW
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Old 12-04-2004, 11:39 AM
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Quote:


Originally posted by Pablopsd
Videobruce,
Are you leaving the back off just for airflow?
I would recommend solid sides. I made mine with plywood sides, and 1 by strips on the front to give the appearance from the front of a leg. The solid sides will add strength front to back. If you don't use solid sides you have to be concerned about racking there too, especially when moving the unit. I will try to get a photo detail posted later of my sides/legs combo.

Reasons for not having a solid back and sides are; cost, weight and opening up the area behind the base since the TV will sit higher than most and it is a smaller room (14'x15'). I'm thinking of cutting corner braces out of wood for the back and the sides that would go between the supports and the top and bottom shelves.
I usually overbuild everything, sometimes too much. I never use nails except for trim pieces and planned to glue the pieces together.

IronHorse; thanks for the input. Pipe clamps are on my list of things to get, but a large square I do have. I was going to screw & glue a block at each end of the supports to fasten to the top and bottom shelves.

One thing I do is cut the tips of /interior/exterior screws off so I have a flat, not pointed tip. That gives me a screw that has more holding power since the tip is meant for drilling not holding especially when you are securing to thinner pieces wood (you can go deeper into the piece).

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Abundant OTA television is what makes this country different from all others. Lets keep it this way. If you like Wi-Fi so much, OTA fits right in. After all, it is wireless.
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Old 12-04-2004, 11:45 AM
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Quote:


Originally posted by Spiff69
So, I'm interested to see what you guys think. I, personally, give myself two thumbs up.

Very nice job, spiff69.

John

John
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Old 12-04-2004, 02:36 PM
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Yea IronHorse- why not just have the design featured a recessed wall unit, crown molding, glass shelves and silk curtains motorized? I mean I have tons of Saturdays free

Seriously tho, really appreciate the time and effort, course, I may end up putting more time and effort into building that if the wife likes it, haha. My only concern as much as I like it, is future proofing. Is there a size restraint that I should design around. Or just go with the TV width that i buy and take it from there. For the floor standers, just put them inside and add cloth or something to them? Does that muffle the sound at all? And of course you had to add doors Tho, I did want doors, just wasn't sure if I could do them well enough. So you'd eliminate some of the shelves I have? I guess one or two shelves in each unit should also had lighting on them? And I guess the TV stand would be a separate unit but painted the same wall color if that's how you intended? This is going to be quite an undertaking should my wife like it and knowing my luck, she will.

Also, for the doors I noticed you have them below a visible shelf. So the top of the doors would not be flush with a shelf? And to run the speaker wire, what, just have a small hole cutout in the back bottom to come out with or how would handle the exiting wire for the speakers? There is no back, they use the wall as the backing. I do like the DVD/CD storage tho, I don't have mush right now.
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Old 12-04-2004, 03:54 PM
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Regarding the 'screw mod' here is a pic of a before and after;
LL

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Abundant OTA television is what makes this country different from all others. Lets keep it this way. If you like Wi-Fi so much, OTA fits right in. After all, it is wireless.
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Old 12-04-2004, 03:56 PM
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Here is a support (in the glue drying process) with the wood block and a metal corner brace resting in place just to show. A 1x3 in the front and a 1x2 for the side. Another 1x2 for a support across the width of the front. View is the bottom of the top shelve;
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Abundant OTA television is what makes this country different from all others. Lets keep it this way. If you like Wi-Fi so much, OTA fits right in. After all, it is wireless.
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Old 12-04-2004, 04:05 PM - Thread Starter
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Red...

Hope I don't cause a domestic dispute '

You figured out the speakers on your own. make a simple frame, stretch speaker cloth over the frame and staple it tight. Get four of those speaker quick-release deals (Rockler), and put your speakers inside. And yup... small 1/4" hole somewhere in the back allows wires to be passed.

The doors (totally optional) would be hinged from the sides of the existing shelf units, and the inside shelf would have to be shortened an inch to allow the doors to close flush under the upper shelf, and above the bottom shelf. Pretty standard cabinetry stuff.

Color... sheesh, I like what you already have, so why not continue with the same values? The JVC would be a focal point, and I know I've seen them in black and silver. I thought you wanted to go the separate stand route and I think the shelf/wall color would be pretty clean looking.

As far as future proofing, I don't know what to tell you. I was looking at the 50 " samy, then the 52" Mits, then the 56" samy, and then I finally pulled the trigger on the 62" Mits. If you can afford it, get the biggest set you think you'd ever want. It looks like you have room for a 56-62 inch set (about 58" wide). Maybe not.

Have fun with the sketch.

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Old 12-04-2004, 04:14 PM - Thread Starter
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For those of you who only have a hand drill and want to make some kind of frame, the pocket screw method is pretty easy if you have a simple jig like this:

http://www.rockler.com/ecom7/product...&sku=2085&cs=1

Rockler even sells beveled dowels that you can use to cover the holes. Naturally, you put the pocket screws on the inside, then saw the plug flush, sand and finish.
LL

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Old 12-05-2004, 10:44 PM
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Just for interest sake, for those with minimal building skills and/or equipment. Here is an option for a shelving frame that can be framed with wood or plastic to your specifications with minimal effort. Unframed, it would be a great industrial look. Please check with your significant other prior to purchase!

http://www.globalindustrial.com/gcs/...ack#gridAnchor
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Old 12-06-2004, 06:30 AM
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Quote:


Originally posted by IronHorse
For those of you who only have a hand drill and want to make some kind of frame, the pocket screw method is pretty easy if you have a simple jig like this:

http://www.rockler.com/ecom7/product...&sku=2085&cs=1

Now I know where Norm got that jig from..............

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Old 12-06-2004, 07:50 AM
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One thought for KidRed's project... having a TV stand flanked by shelf units / book cases makes it hard to access the rear of the TV. When I built mine, I put the TV stand itself on casters, so that it could be pulled out for easy access. It's a lifesaver when fiddling with the connections. On mine, the casters are designed to be hidden. Their height is set so that woodwork of the stand barely clears the pile of the carpet.
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Old 12-06-2004, 08:07 AM
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I wouldn't think of NOT putting it on casters.
I'm using Sheppard ball casters. I've seen many that have them up against a wall with 3 or 4 pieces of equipment underneath, why try to pull each piece out to get at the jumbo of cables? You surely can't lift it and try to slide it out (at least I would try).

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Old 12-06-2004, 11:23 AM
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Quote:


Originally posted by Kenlex
When I built mine, I put the TV stand itself on casters, so that it could be pulled out for easy access. It's a lifesaver when fiddling with the connections. On mine, the casters are designed to be hidden. Their height is set so that woodwork of the stand barely clears the pile of the carpet.

I did the same:

Picture

There are 5 wheels under the TV stand. I used wheels that swivel and I now wish I had used fixed wheels. The wheels all want to turn 180 degrees when you reverse direction (which is everytime you move it) and until they all aligned the stand doesn't moved very easily.

-Bruce
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Old 12-07-2004, 11:30 AM - Thread Starter
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Bruce...

Your dammed if you do and dammed if you don't. I'm anticipating putting eight (8) swivel casters on my stand. If you put non-swivel wheels on, you are sort of limited to pulling the whole deal out in one direction which might be OK for some folks. Maybe if you used those wide bed rollers... that might work better? What I'm concerned about is digging into the carpeting with a wheel that won't swivel to the path of least resistance.

I've got my set diagonally in the corner, and after the holidays, I'll start a search for some bookshelf units which will flank both sides of the set. The idea is that Bookshelf and TV Stand corners will sort of meet and by twisting the stand, I could get behind it easily enough to get at wiring.

Well, that's how I'll start off (all swivels), but if I sense there's a problem, I'll look at alternatives.

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Old 12-07-2004, 03:15 PM
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Project complete.
LL
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Old 12-08-2004, 12:30 AM
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Looks Good Bear!
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Old 12-08-2004, 09:03 PM
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FWIW, a update on my project. It's turning out to be a design & modify as you go. I got these clamps a year ago and haven't used them. They sure came in handy here. I used 2; 2 1/2" exterior screws to secure these;
LL

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Old 12-08-2004, 09:05 PM
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The top runners 1x3 on the back and 1x2 on the front. Here is the back just sitting in place;
LL

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Old 12-08-2004, 09:06 PM
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Here is a overall shot with the middle shelf in place and the two top supports. It will have 1x2 end supports also. The middle shelf won't have any supports as the top has since it isn't carrying the weight of the TV;
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Old 12-09-2004, 03:00 PM - Thread Starter
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Bruce...

Looking good compadre So what about the end panels and top... how are you fixing to mount/attach?

My stand progress hasn't been worth posting, but I'll do some pix this weekend I hope. I've completed all my trim work, and last night I sanded everything and made my drawer front... then banded the edges. I also mounted all eight casters on 3/4" pads because SWMBO requested that I extend the kick panel down another 3/4". Got that done a couple of nights ago. Tonight I hope to vacumn (again) the box and seal everything, and tomorrow I'll do the first coat of stain.

I think I'm leaning towards the gel stain if I can find the Brazilian Rosewood, but it'll probably take two coats of stain to get the deep color I'm looking for. Then I'm either going to finish with brushable lacquer or water-based urethane. I used oak for my trim work and it might take a little more work to get a nice finish on those parts. I gave up on the cherry.

I'm waiting for my glass hinges to arrive from Rockler so I can determine _exactly_ what size each door is with clearance. The local glass shops have to special order them (tempered glass is cut, corneres radiused, edges polished, then cooked) and I don't want to make a $125 mistake.

I haven't made up my mind about putting a knob on the glass door or not, but there also... they have to drill it before tempering the glass.

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Old 12-09-2004, 09:20 PM
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I'll have the 1x2's along the top shelf as I did in the front. Only the back I used a 1x3 so I can use it to hide cables if need be. The top shelf will be secured to the 'L' shaped legs the same way I did the base, but I won't use that center block of wood to eliminate the screw hole in the top that can't be covered up by the corner molding. It will take care of the exposed end grain of the plywood and the 3 screws in each corner leg.
I will use half round to cover the end grain of the other shelves. It's about 5/8" round, slightly less that the thickness of the plywood, but it worked out fine for the window seat I just built in a spare room for my wife. Actually, it was better than I thought using three different woods; pine molding, birch support pieces (1x3's, same as I'm using here) and maple veneer plywood would be a problem, but it wasn't.

Thanks to Norm (though too late for the kitchen project) I used a sealer first before I stained anything. I found when I stained the new window in the bathroom because of the soft wood sucking up the stain unevenly, it made a BIG difference there as compared to the kitchen bay window where I didn't use the sealer. Same stain and wood, totally different appearance.

I cut a number of corner braces (you can see one of them in the corner clamp image), but may not use them depending on how sturdy the piece is after I get the top shelve on.

I see that there are things I didn't figure on in the process that I would of done/not done had I known what I do now. Nothing TOO drastic, yet.

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Old 12-10-2004, 04:33 PM
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Great stuff guys.
videobruce- I would never have built a 'frame' like you did. I just would have built the 'box' structure and added the shelves. I'm learning a lot and the photos really make a difference.
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Old 12-10-2004, 10:02 PM - Thread Starter
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Well, I got a coat of Minwax sanding sealer on the cabinet, so tomorrow I start staining. I'm going with the minwax gel stain (Brazilian Rosewood) and I wondered if anyone here has any last words of wisdom to give me since I've never used the gel before.

I'm expecting that I will use two coats of stain, and then I'm going to use Minwax water based urethane, either satin or semi gloss.

Once I get this aspect of the job moving forward, I'll have to make the black formica shelves. I got my glass door hinges today, so once I figure out clearances, I'll order my two doors Monday.

But again... anyone who has used this gel stain... I'd appreciate any pointers on getting a uniform deep rosewood color on the birch plywood and oak trim pieces.

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