WOM memory. I've got it how about you?
My question is regarding the older model. I have a DTV antenna I used to pick up HD programming over the air which worked fine on my newer Samsung set. Channels I'm getting are all consistent with the new DTV broadcasting (i.e.-- channel 2-1, 4-1, 4-2, 4-4, etc.). They are broadcasting in 1080i resolution.
I recently switched out my 46" LCD to my bedroom, and moved the older 61" DLP into the living room. I attached the DTV antenna to the Ant.1-IN input on the back panel of the DLP and tried searching for local broadcast channels using the auto-search in the setup menu, but it didn't find any channels. I connected the antenna cable to Ant.2-IN, and that also did not work. Are the older Samsung DLP's unable to receive DTV broadcast channels over the air without a set-top box? Any help appreciated!
I have a HLR5078WX and recently I notice that my cable provider COX menus changed. No problem there but when I switch channels slowly every few channels I get a delay and a black screen then the picture is half way up the screen then a moment later everything is proper position.
I remember way back someone was talking about a shade inside that is like a trap door that opens and closes when changing channels.
Does this sound right? Well it seems the trap door may have some dust and is hanging once in awhile. Other than this issue everything is still great picture and sound.
Any suggestions or directions to clean? Is it worht the effort ?
It's probably about how the STB selects screen resolution.
Do you know which color wheel you need? There are 2 options an L3 or L6 chassis.
There are 2 ways to tell
a. the lamp code on the side of the tv can tell
b. pull the rear cover and it is often written on the light engine chassis.
It isn't hard to do yourself if you are at least a small bit tech inclined.
If you have a L3 chassis, I have a new Samsung color wheel pn. BP96-00674A , I'd sell for $105 shipped in the 48 state US.
I've extensively perused this and other forums and feel a "kinship" with others who spent a good deal of money on a Samsung DLP in the early years (2006 - 8025 hours on the lamp now) only to have it go south in a relatively short period of time.
What I can't figure out right now, based on what I've seen here and elsewhere is if my problem is caused by the color wheel (it isn't making any noise) or if it is the LE failing. It goes away with a solid bang on the base. Since only two fans and a color wheel comprise the moving parts on this unit, they seem suspect. But, it could also be a bad ground or something similar on the LE.
I found this video at youtube from somone else that is the exact same model, and exact same problem, I'm having. No, been having on and off for about 18 months, along with the "on and off" problem that cleaning has not seemed to help, nor has the door latch repair. But the "on and off" is so intermittent as to have us ignoring it most of the time.
Those of you with experience, please check out the video and opine as to whether this is the color wheel not keeping up to speed or the LE. (forgive the quote marks, but I'm new and can't post URLs - yet)
If it is the former, then I'll attempt the replacement. If it is the later, is there anyone who wants a good deal on a four your old, 42" Samsung DLP? ;-]
I recently bought a replacement lamp assembly from ebay seller rivervalleyelectronics. They have one of the lowest prices (might not be THE lowest), they have good feedback rating, and they ship very quickly (they have a free shipping option too). They have both the lamp by itself and the lamp with housing for $7 more. It's a lot less work to buy the lamp w/ housing and may be worth the extra $7.
My HLR4667w just started doing that yesterday after only doing it for a few minutes once before, but this time it stayed that way. Try your component inputs and it should look normal on those if it is the same problem. If so, it's something in the digital block/ tuner/dnle side (left side when looking at the rear, behind/attached to all the inputs).
Since I also have a HLR4266w I swapped digital blocks so I know for sure the problem is there. My 46" is temporarily fixed but i lost the vga port by doing it.
A couple very odd things is that the pcba in my HLR4667 said HLR4266 on it. Another thing is that the black wire going from the power supply to the digital block was not connected when I took off the back. When I did the swap initially, I connected it and got white specs on the screen, flickering, and poor reception. After disconnecting the cable like it was before, it was perfect. Cheers.
Random question about my Samsung DLP HLR-4266w. I bought it in 2005 and am still on the original lamp. The tv has been working flawlessly to-date, until the past couple days.
After watching tv for a while, the tv starts to flicker patches of horizontal lines across the screen. Sometimes they'll be really faint and will only flash for a fraction of a second. Othertimes, they'll obscure a big patch in the middle of the screen. It seems to be pretty random and only after the tv has been on for a while.
I searched this thread, but can't seem to find anything about this specific issue. Does anyone know what might be causing this?
So this issue (or a similar one) has recently started acting up again on my tv. I'm still on the original lamp (no idea how to check the hours on it). My tv is periodically flickring patches of horizontal lines on the screen and the bulb seems to sometimes dim for a bit and then come back to normal brightness. Once or twice it seemed like the hue of the screen may have shifted to a slight yellowish before going back to normal again as well. I haven't had any led's or anything, and this issue is definitely intermittent. Does anyone know if this might be the bulb dying, or something like the light engine or processor board going? If it is inexpensive to fix, I'd consider it. But I wouldn't want to just start throwing money at it if I had no idea when I could just buy a new tv instead.
Don't know if people are still reading this thread, buuuuut:
My parents have an HLR5067W and given what they told me about it, I purchased a new lamp. That said, when I actually saw the set in person (I replaced the lamp), the TV turns on, displays whatever input you're on, and then promptly (2-3 seconds) freezes and resets. I don't know if it's better or worse that the picture is seemingly fine (and it registers button presses before it freezes/resets) but it seems like the controller/processor has an issue.
Has anybody heard of an issue like this before? I gave them a 32" LCD to use in the meantime but that's not a long-term solution. I'd like to know whether this thing is useless or repairable. I'll try giving Samsung's CS a call tomorrow.
1. How many have had to replace the color wheel?
2. Has anyone had to replace any of the fans?
The Internet is no place for streaming video.
The links below were in the notes I took in case I need to do it again. Also, be sure to figure out what chassis you have before you order the color wheel. I don't remember how to determine that, but for the 55" model the options are something like L3 and L6. Mine was a L6.
The color wheel I received was a bit dusty, which surprised me. It almost looked used. But, it works and wasn't too pricey.
Last week, the PS3 got stuck in the state where it only displays a blank black screen. No number of power cycles of the PS3 (or long-presses of the PS3 power button) will get it out of this state. Since I primarily use the PS3 for watching Netflix, I decided to hook up my brand new Roku 2 XS instead. The Roku displays menu content without issues, but when I attempt to watch a Netflix (or other) video, the sound works normally, but the video is simply a solid purple box (either 4:3 with black side bars or full screen depending on the aspect ratio of the video itself). A quick internet search indicated this could be a HDCP issue.
Despite the PS3/Roku issues, my DirecTV box still works perfectly with the TV, though I don't have any premium channels like HBO/Sunday Ticket/PPV.
Both the PS3 and the Roku work fine with an old 22" Gateway monitor via HDMI->DVI adapter.
So, my questions are....
1. Has anyone else seen this issue?
2. Is there a new version of HDCP that Roku and the PS3 (via update?) are now implementing that is incompatible with this TV?
3. Does the TV component that implements the HDCP protection/handshake sometimes go bad? If so, what component is that, and is it typically replaceable (I've already replaced the bulb a few times and the color wheel, so I have no problem tearing the set apart)?
Thanks in advance,
Anyone have any other ideas?
Thanks in advance,
I used Cyberlink BD Advisor to verify that the TV was not properly negotiating HDCP, and used the same computer/software/cable with a different TV to verify that the issue wasn't with the source/cable.
So, the TV's HDCP is broken.
I had a long chat with Samsung customer service tonight. The agent indicated it was an issue with the TV and that the TV needed service. When I complained of the price, she indicated that she didn't know the repair costs, but I'd be able to use Samsung's website to get the price of the repair. However, the site forces you to agree to pay for diagnosis before knowing the diagnostic price or the repair price.
I guess the moral of the story is don't buy an expensive TV, stick with the cheap ones and plan to replace them frequently.
My chat with the Samsung agent....
Please wait for a Samsung Agent to respond.
You are now chatting with 'April'. There will be a brief survey at the end of our chat to share feedback on my performance today.
Your Issue ID for this chat is AVAJD9LIR2WO9.
April: Hi, thanks for reaching out to Samsung Technical Support. How can I help you today?
You: Hi, HDCP stopped working on my TV and I'm trying to figure out how to fix it
You: I've replaced all my HDMI cables
You: and verified that the source HDCP works properly with another TV using the same cables
April: I'm sorry to hear about the problem with the connection.
April: Let me help you on troubleshooting the unit.
April: What is the model number of the TV?
April: Thank you.
April: What error message are you getting?
You: attaching a Roku gives me a purple screen -- an indication that HDCP copy protection has failed
You: Apple TV gives me a similar error -- don't remember exactly what
You: I've used CyberLink BD Advisor for Windows
You: and it indicates that there is not a HDCP link between the computer and the TV
You: all those devices work with the same cable and a different TV
You: I've also pulled the AC power to the TV
You: let it sit for a couple minutes, but still see the same errors
April: So to be clear with your description.
April: You tried to different HDCP source to the TV, and it is giving you the same problem, am I getting it right?
You: and tried a different TV with those sources -- the other TV works fine
You: with those sources/cables
April: Thank you for clarifying.
April: Is this two devices, such as Roku and Apple TV, did it connected to this TV, HLR5667W before with no error?
You: oh, sorry I forgot to mention that
You: I also tried a PS3
You: The PS3 used to work just fine, but now does not
You: (work fine with this TV)
April: Thank you for letting me know.
April: And this is connected to the TV all on the same port?
You: That TV has a single HDMI input
You: I have tried each of those devices in that HDMI input
You: I have also tried using them with a HDMI switch
You: but am not currently using the switch even though I've verified the switch is not the problem
You: so, I have to unplug the devices from the tv hdmi input to switch between them at the moment
April: Alright, thank you for providing me these information and description.
April: Upon checking on my end if this is happening on many sources on the TV.
April: I'm afraid the only resolution that I can provide as of the moment is to have the TV serviced.
April: It seems on my end that the port of the TV is defective.
April: And since it is part of the hardware of the unit, I won't be able to recommend some troubleshooting steps this needs to be done physically by a technician.
April: If you wish to have it serviced under Samsung, you can use this link : http://www.samsung.com/us/support/service/request
April: To have it scheduled for repair.
You: right, but a service call would a substantial part of the cost of a new TV of better quality
April: To be honest with you the cost of the repair that I do not have the information handy and I cannot verify this to you.
April: However on the process of setting it up for repair you will be informed regarding with the cost and it will be on your decision to pursue the repair or not.
You: Is there any way such a repair would be covered by Samsung?
April: The repair can be covered if the Samsung unit is still under warranty.
April: And the standard warranty is.
April: One (1) year from the date of purchase.
April: The cost for labor and parts will be covered within 1 year from the date of purchase.
April: Aside from this one, is there anything else I might be able to help you with?
April: I understand, if you will need further assistance in the future you can always chat us back we are open 24/7.
April: Thank you for chatting with us. If you have a minute, please click on the blue “X close” button to receive a transcript of your chat and fill out a brief survey to help us serve you better. Have a wonderful day!
April: Follow Samsung Service on Facebook, Twitter and YouTube.
April has left.
Hi, I'm late to the party! I just got a HLR4266W and it has a collapsed mirror tunnel. I'm going to attempt to replace the mirror tunnel myself (comfortable with that type of electronics repair) but I am having a heck of a time finding the part. In the service manual it is simply listed as "Mirror-Light Tunnel". So far I've been able to find the light tunnel covers on the 'Net but not the mirror tunnel itself. Does anyone have the part number for this? Or know of an online source to order it from?