Samsung HLRxx67W Owners Thread --- 720p DLP HDTV - Page 128 - AVS Forum
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post #3811 of 4019 Old 04-15-2009, 09:39 AM
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Stock warrenty was 12 months, but I believe you got an extra 3 months by registering the product with Samsung. I got a 5yr(starts after my orig warrenty) for 250, which seemed like a decent deal at the time. That these DLPs have many mechanical parts and bulbs, that just a part can be replaced was why I went for it. Flat panel TVs don't have a few big parts like DLPs do.

I cringe at what I paid for my 5667 back in the summer of 2005, I think it was around 2300, LOL. I could probably get a 50'' 1080P LCD for half of that.

Knock on wood though, I've been pretty happy with mine and still use it and see no reason to get rid of it. Although it doesn't help that the 32'' 720P Panasonic LCD I got for the bedroom looks better/sharper, and only costed $499...
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post #3812 of 4019 Old 04-15-2009, 04:42 PM
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I looked mine up paid $1,700 Feb of 06 so warranty is not an option. Anyone have any idea how to get this fixed or where to buy parts?
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post #3813 of 4019 Old 04-19-2009, 10:56 PM
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I got my 5667W in July '05 from Circuit City with their Advantage Plan warranty for 4 years, which included one free bulb replacement. We all know that CC is no more, and I discovered my bulb has 9,036 hours on it. Anyone else in this situation, or know how I can figure out who will honor my plan since it isn't expired until July of this year? Thanks!
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post #3814 of 4019 Old 04-20-2009, 03:29 PM
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Well, I got the bulb replacement taken care of. My question is will the tv notify me that I need to change it or will it just go out or what? I have noticed that some channels do appear darker than I think they normally should. Maybe this is a sign it's going to die soon? Since there is over 9,000 hours, that does seem plausible, but I just wondered when I should swap it out since I want to get all the usage from my original bulb.
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post #3815 of 4019 Old 04-21-2009, 09:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sooner02 View Post

Well, I got the bulb replacement taken care of. My question is will the tv notify me that I need to change it or will it just go out or what? I have noticed that some channels do appear darker than I think they normally should. Maybe this is a sign it's going to die soon? Since there is over 9,000 hours, that does seem plausible, but I just wondered when I should swap it out since I want to get all the usage from my original bulb.

It won't "notify" you persay, when things just get too dark and enough unlike the original brightness, it's probably time to change the bulb. Of course if the bulb were to quit working or have a problem, then the corresponding lights blink on the front panel.

Wait to change it till you can't stand it anymore, if you want to milk everything out of the old bulb.

I haven't ventured into the service menu to check my bulb life, but I haven't noticed it really being any dimmer, this bulb is a little over 3 yrs old...
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post #3816 of 4019 Old 04-26-2009, 08:09 AM
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This is the problem I just started having with my set. Has anybody else had this problem? If so, do you know what the root of the problem was? is it just a lamp that needs to be replaced or something bigger, more costly?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2HOIKmWOW3I

If it's gonna cost >$500, i think i'm better off just buying a new tv

Thanks for your help.
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post #3817 of 4019 Old 04-27-2009, 07:12 PM
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here's my situation...Just replaced the color wheel in my Sammy, pit it back together and the screen is shifted evenly across an inch or two high...i just need to know what adjustments need to be made where and how..if you could that would be most awesome..look forward to hearing back from ya'..thanks Kurt
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post #3818 of 4019 Old 04-28-2009, 07:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sakurtman View Post

here's my situation...Just replaced the color wheel in my Sammy, pit it back together and the screen is shifted evenly across an inch or two high...i just need to know what adjustments need to be made where and how..if you could that would be most awesome..look forward to hearing back from ya'..thanks Kurt

Hopefully you will get some additional, more authoritative replies, however here are some notes I saved on this in case I ever needed/wanted to try it.

I have not tried this so proceed with caution.

Vertical / Horizontal Position Adjustment
1. Turn off the power to put the unit into the STAND-BY mode.
2. In order to enter the Service Mode, Press "Mute" ? "1" ? "8" ? "2" ? "POWER" button on the Remote Control.
3. Select "Service" on the first display of the Service mode menu.
4. Select the V-position for vertical positioning and H-position for horizontal positioning by using the ? ? (up, down) buttons.
? Do not set the V-position value to 34 or 35. (Setting to these values will cause horizontal lines on the right side of the screen.)
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post #3819 of 4019 Old 05-09-2009, 08:44 PM
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All,
Just had the digitial board(main) replaced on my HLR5667 under extended warranty; picture would lock up periodically and tuner input was green in color. This is fixed now, but the color reproduction is really muddy; shadows have alot of switching green, alot of shadow type backgrounds are unsteady.

With the original board I don't recall doing alot of calibration to get good color; certainly not the service menu or anything. Is this something I can adjust out, or should I just get the Best Buy tech to come back and fix? Anything they should have done after replacing the board, that I can do now?

Any suggestions will be appreciated.

Thanks.
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post #3820 of 4019 Old 05-19-2009, 06:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mad_Mardigan View Post

I'm new to the thread, so bear with me, I've tried to find a message and answer for my specific issue but could not. I have the buzzing sound like is well documented here in these forums, but my problem is somewhat unique (I think).

I know the issue is the color wheel rubbing on the color wheel housing. And I've purchased
and replaced the color wheel (just the wheel). After putting the set back together and turning it on, the sound did not go away, the buzzing was quieter but still there. I took the set apart again and cut out 5 nickle sized discs of tin foil and put them between the wheel base and the color wheel housing mount. After putting the set back together and turning it on there was no buzzing sound. The 5 pieces of tin foil pushed the wheel away just enough so it wouldn't rub (I'm pretty sure the old color wheel was fine, but have already given it to the kids). 3 weeks later, the buzzing is back. My only option I can think of is adding more "shims" in between the wheel motor and the wheel housing mount to push it further away from the spot where it is rubbing.

Has anyone experienced this problem, is there another solution? I don't have a lot of cash, so I'd prefer to avoid buying a new color wheel, "with the housing this time"...

MM

A couple months later....

I added more shims (2 thin sheets of tin now) and the sound, again went away for a while. But it's now coming back! I'm pretty sure after a few more weeks the sound will be drowning out the TV speakers again and I'll have to take it apart and try something new!

Does anyone know if there is a way to buy the entire color wheel housing? I don't want just the wheel, or just the housing. I want the whole package as one piece. That way there's no chance the pieces will not fit together properly like they are now.

Has ANYONE experienced this problem? What do the TV repair guys do in these cases?
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post #3821 of 4019 Old 06-09-2009, 06:52 PM
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All,
I have a 61" Samsung 720p DLP model HL-R6167W.

I have had it for a few years now, I think I bought it in 05 or 06 when it came out new.

I have used the PIP for working on the computer and watching cable component input signal before, but I for some reason forgot that I have a split screen option in the menu. But it is always greyed out and I can't select either of the bottom two PIP size options for split screen.

I searched but couldn't find the exact answer. Can someone please tell me what combination of inputs need to be used to be able to run split screen side by side PIP? Ideally, I would like to run computer VGA input on one half and HDMI cable input on the other half, but I'm not sure how the resolution would work with that.

thanks,
Teague
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post #3822 of 4019 Old 06-09-2009, 08:06 PM
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Check out page 132 of the user manual.
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post #3823 of 4019 Old 06-09-2009, 08:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bakers12 View Post

Check out page 132 of the user manual.

That page doesn't mention split screen, so I'm not sure if that is different.

Based on that page I should be able to operate the PC on the main channel and component2 on the PIP or secondary. Only QAM and ATSC don't work with PC in PIP mode.

BUT, I try that (Running PC on the selected input, then going to PIP in the "Picture" menu and select component1 or 2) and the 2 split screen options are still grayed out.

Thanks,
Teague
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post #3824 of 4019 Old 06-21-2009, 10:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kremerica View Post

That page doesn't mention split screen, so I'm not sure if that is different.

Based on that page I should be able to operate the PC on the main channel and component2 on the PIP or secondary. Only QAM and ATSC don't work with PC in PIP mode.

BUT, I try that (Running PC on the selected input, then going to PIP in the "Picture" menu and select component1 or 2) and the 2 split screen options are still grayed out.

Thanks,
Teague

Any Ideas?
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post #3825 of 4019 Old 07-04-2009, 12:37 PM
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so, i seem to have posted about this tv back in 2005, when I first got it.

4 years later, and i's finally dying. I -think- it's the analog side of things, but can't be sure, since I'm getting a decent signal from the old VGA cable.

Lamp life is at 6666h

component in's have started to 'flicker' and jitter, and lose sync once in a while, especially when the TV thinks it's not getting a full signal (such as during scene changes/fade-to-blacks coming from the HD-DVR cable box, or my Xbox360)

We've also heard what might've been the fan dying (grinding sound, reminiscent of a PC fan getting stuck)

colors are all there, so I think the colorwheel is still intact.

We got the 'all 3 words on' going yesterday. After a while, the tv decided it'd let us watch the redbox rental, and stayed on for another 6 hours.

AV1 (composite) is also fine, no jitters or anything. (well, other than the image looks horrible comparatively... composite and 480i looks quite depressing on this tv)

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

One Sub to rumble them all. One Sub to shake them. One Sub to humble them all, and in the darkness break them.
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post #3826 of 4019 Old 07-09-2009, 01:35 PM
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Any known firmware updates for this unit?
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post #3827 of 4019 Old 07-09-2009, 09:12 PM
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I just had a local repair shop take my 56" HLR-5667W today, I have a warranty from Circuit City and they're the ones that are taking care of it. My HDMI port suddenly stopped working a little over a year ago and I finally decided to get it fixed, I had tried different HDMI cords and devices and nothing worked, and it just suddenly stopped working while playing a game one night, just flickered for a second and died.

Anyway, the shop told me a couple days ago they're going to have to replace the digital board cause that's what the HDMI port is a part of. Does anybody have any experience with this? I'm extremely nervous and anxious about all of this, especially the part about them taking it for what I was told will be a week. I'm scared it's going to get messed up in the truck to or from there, or that the replacement of such a large part is going to cause a series of long, drawn-out problems in the future.
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post #3828 of 4019 Old 07-10-2009, 09:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UNSCleric View Post

I just had a local repair shop take my 56" HLR-5667W today, I have a warranty from Circuit City and they're the ones that are taking care of it. My HDMI port suddenly stopped working a little over a year ago and I finally decided to get it fixed, I had tried different HDMI cords and devices and nothing worked, and it just suddenly stopped working while playing a game one night, just flickered for a second and died.

Anyway, the shop told me a couple days ago they're going to have to replace the digital board cause that's what the HDMI port is a part of. Does anybody have any experience with this? I'm extremely nervous and anxious about all of this, especially the part about them taking it for what I was told will be a week. I'm scared it's going to get messed up in the truck to or from there, or that the replacement of such a large part is going to cause a series of long, drawn-out problems in the future.

Digital board is essentially the guts of the TV I think. I believe that is what was replaced with mine, not a year after I got it. I had issues with the TV just turning off at random times and lights flashing. Tech came to my place and just replaced the digital board(in about 10 minutes, he was very fast and knew exactly what he was doing). This was under factory warrenty.

Also I think the bulb/lamp attaches to or is a part of the digital board, so you might get a new bulb/lamp out of the deal as well. I can't remember thought, it has been over 3 years since that happened. I still have another year on my extended warrenty, I am hoping that if something goes wrong with it, they do not carry the part(s) anymore and are forced to give me something comparable that is new
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post #3829 of 4019 Old 07-10-2009, 10:38 AM
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Why the heck did they have to take my TV for over a week when it sounded like they could do it here at my house, and then once they found out I was a warranty through circuit city, it changed to this huge ordeal where they have to take it away. This is ridiculous, and I'm going to go crazy if anything happens to it in the truck or at their shop because of all this crap.

Under extended warranties, mine at least, you only get one new bulb and you're done (You get one under the 1 year factory warranty, and then one under the E.W.) so they better not replace my bulb yet.
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post #3830 of 4019 Old 07-14-2009, 11:42 AM
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It's now Tuesday and they've had my TV since Thursday afternoon. I called there Friday and just asked some general questions and said I was nervous about this whole thing and she made me feel a little better but said they wouldn't know much until they looked at it and had an estimation/assessment on what they would be doing with it. They're now three hours from closing for the day, so I'm going to call there in a few minutes. She said it's possible they could repair the HDMI port without replacing the digital board as well.
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post #3831 of 4019 Old 07-21-2009, 09:28 AM
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I've had my HL-R5667W since 2005, and the bulb now has over 10,000 hours on it. I have a replacement bulb, but the original is still working just fine but may be slightly dimmer than normal. Should I replace the bulb or just wait for this one to totally go out? Is there a risk leaving the older one in it?
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post #3832 of 4019 Old 07-21-2009, 10:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sooner02 View Post

...I just wondered when I should swap it out since I want to get all the usage from my original bulb.

Consider swapping the bulb ASAP in order to have a working emergency back-up.
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post #3833 of 4019 Old 07-21-2009, 01:05 PM
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There's no risk to leaving it in, it just won't work someday, that's it. You could do what the other guy says and use it as a back-up when your second bulb goes.

Also, I still don't have my TV, it's been 12 days now. They called me 6 days ago and told me they are replacing the digital module and it would take 4-5 business days to recieve. I was called again on Friday and told the same stuff (it was weird) amd then I asked if I'd have it this week and she said yes. I'm about to call there now and see what is happening.
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post #3834 of 4019 Old 08-01-2009, 09:04 AM
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Anyone have any idea how I determine which color wheel I am supposed to used to replace the broken one in my HLR4667w?

I see two on samsung parts (let's not mention the fact that both are on national backorder):

1. BP96-00674A - which says it is "COLOR WHEEL (PHILLIPS) FOR CHASSIS (L3)"

http://www.samsungparts.com/part_det...model=HLR4667W

2. BP96-01103A
Description: COLOR WHEEL / FOR CHASSIS (L6)


http://www.samsungparts.com/part_det...model=HLR4667W
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post #3835 of 4019 Old 08-15-2009, 11:10 AM
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How do you determine the Lamp hours used? Is it in the menu? I looked but could not find it.
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post #3836 of 4019 Old 08-17-2009, 09:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nodukes View Post

Hello all, I have the HL-R5067W model and all of a sudden it won't turn on. Well, that isn't necessarily correct. What's happening is, when I turn the tv on, the screen starts to come on, the lamp light flashes for about 10 seconds, and then the tv automatically shuts off. I can see from behind that the lamp is on, and the screen does appear to get lighter like it's trying to come on. However, nothing ever shows up on the screen, not even the video mode it's in.

Any thoughts on what could be the problem? Thanks in advance for any help!!!

My 46" is doing the same thing. I took it to a repair shop Friday and they diagnosed it as a circuit board mailfunction. They have ordered the part and the cost of the repair and part is $350. If this fixes everything I'll be so happy to no longer have to watch our 27" Sammy CRT from our bedroom in our living room.
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post #3837 of 4019 Old 08-17-2009, 11:51 AM
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Originally Posted by samfsu View Post

How do you determine the Lamp hours used? Is it in the menu? I looked but could not find it.

It's in the Service Menu, but enter at your own risk.
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post #3838 of 4019 Old 08-23-2009, 07:29 AM
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I'm also trying to determine which color wheel I need for my HLR6167W since it's buzzing a lot. Sometimes it would buzz, sometimes not. But it looks like now we've blown the lamp since we had to unplug the tv repeatedly to stop the buzzing. It was an old lamp so no biggie. The back of the tv says I have an L64B chassis and when I went to partstore I figured this would be easy enough since they label which parts for which chassis.

So just to be safe I went ahead and opened up the back of the tv and the lamp housing actually has a lamp part number on it. BUT.... It's printed with the lamp part number for an L3 chassis. Aaarggh. So I went ahead and dismantled everything and according to samsung parts, my color wheel and housing match the picture for the L3 chassis color wheel. So at this point, should I ignore the "L6" printed on the back of the TV?

At least now I know it's definitely the color wheel since spinning it by hand, it's not spinning freely and smoothly and it's making bad noises.

I bought this tv when it first came out. Which chassis came out first? I assume L3 came out before L6?
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post #3839 of 4019 Old 08-23-2009, 09:18 AM
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Originally Posted by MANNAXMAN View Post

It's in the Service Menu, but enter at your own risk.

How do I get to the service menu and why "enter at your own risk?"
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post #3840 of 4019 Old 08-25-2009, 12:59 PM
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Search this thread for the terms "service menu". Here's just one of the results of that search - http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...u#post14935133

Enter at your own risk because you could accidentally change settings.
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