Samsung HLRxx67W Owners Thread --- 720p DLP HDTV - Page 129 - AVS Forum
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post #3841 of 4015 Old 08-26-2009, 09:01 PM
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The color wheel broke on my TV. Ordered the part and am waiting for it to arrive, but I think I unplugged one too many wires in the tv. Does someone have a service manual or some pictures of the the wires conected to the right places in the section behind the connection ports? Most of them seem to match up by size, but I would really like to make sure before I plug it back in with the part fixed.

Thanks.
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post #3842 of 4015 Old 08-28-2009, 08:28 PM
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Went to watch a DVD tonight, and the TV is jacked up. Green bars will flash on the screen every now and then, the image would freeze, but the sound would continue thru my receiver. I ejected the disc from the player, and the image was still frozen on the screen. Problem happens w/ TV also (different input), so I know it's not the source that's the problem. I unplugged everything for a few minutes and tried again... The problem was worse -- this time the TV just acted funny for a while, and eventually turned itself off, a few mins after I had pushed the power button to turn it off. Not sure if it just took a long time to respond or if it never received the signal from the remote and just decided to shut down of its own volition.

Now the question... Light engine or digital board? I guess I will call my local repair shop and see what they say. I think I have had the TV since about April 2006, so about 3.5 years. I feel a $1500 investment should give a lot more service than that, but this is the world we live in today.
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post #3843 of 4015 Old 08-30-2009, 07:03 AM
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I had a reputable repair man tell me that a particular IC on the digital board is not operating properly. This was causing my picture to freeze, inputs to go in and out, occasional green and garbled screen, etc. Quoted me $700+ to replace the whole light engine.

Well, some clever folks at the following forum have identified the DNIe chip as the possible culprit. Turns out this BGA chip is not adhering to the board properly (corner BGA balls maybe loose or cracked due to poor solder / numerous thermal cycles perhaps?). Here's the first post with the initial fix and pictures of the chip on the board:
http://www.hometheatershack.com/foru...-hlr5067w.html

Here's the latest post with a more reliable "clamp" to put pressure on the DNIe chip, allowing for all BGA connections to get proper connection to the digital board. Hopefully this is a solution to those of us who gave up on this set long ago...!
http://www.hometheatershack.com/foru...-problems.html

Thanks to Jason1976/Icaillo/tito for their detective work.
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post #3844 of 4015 Old 08-30-2009, 08:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bragginz View Post


Thanks to Justin1976/Icaillo/tito for their detective work.

I belong to this one too. I joined here but never posted anything until now. I forgot my password and had to wait for a password reset email. I was going to start a new topic with this fix but it wont let me post url's until i have so many post. it thinks i am trying to spam. I was going to name it "hlr4667w hlr5067w hlr5667w hlr6067w digital board fix." and list the issues that this fix seams to take care of. tv lamp light flashing but doesn't come on then goes to standby mode. green screen, green plaid, scrambled screen, restarting, pic going out and coming back over and over, and remote control not responding. it takes care of a lot of issues.
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post #3845 of 4015 Old 09-03-2009, 01:00 PM
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What is a good HDMI switcher that people have successfully used with this tv?
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post #3846 of 4015 Old 09-04-2009, 07:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bragginz View Post

Here's the latest post with a more reliable "clamp" to put pressure on the DNIe chip, allowing for all BGA connections to get proper connection to the digital board. Hopefully this is a solution to those of us who gave up on this set long ago...!
http://www.hometheatershack.com/foru...-problems.html

The symptoms described in your link are exactly what I have been seeing w/ my 5067. The shop that I called today quoted me about $800 for the digital board, and $300 more to install it -- having paid ~1300 for the set, this is obviously not an option. Even if I could get the part myself though, for ~300, it sounds like I'd have to wait forever to get it, and be without our TV for who knows how long. I'm not OK with that either.

Seems like my best bet is to try this fix, in hopes that it will buy me a bit of time while I try to figure out what is the best set to buy this next time (horrible, after having this set for only 3.5 years). I really have no clue about where to look for ratings, etc. Does anyone have any ideas there?
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post #3847 of 4015 Old 09-04-2009, 09:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MANNAXMAN View Post

Enter at your own risk because you could accidentally change settings.

I've stayed out of the service menu on my HL-R4667W ever since I discovered that just by entering it, you reset all of the user menu picture settings back to the factory defaults. So if you've spent a lot of time tweaking the various brightness/contrast/color/sharpness settings for each of your inputs, they go bye-bye every time you just enter the service menu.

I just replaced my first ever burned out lamp after almost four years of heavy use, and even then I resisted the urge to go in to see how many hours I had racked up or to reset it back to zero. I just did some math and figure with my set's daily on/off schedule, it had to be just under 12,000 hours on the original lamp. Amazing.

My lamp had noticeably dimmed over the last several months, and last Tuesday about two minutes after I powered it up for the first time of the day after work, there was a dull "poof" and the picture went dark and I had mucho flashing LEDs on the front. When I checked the bulb, the glass tube inside the overall glass enclosure of the lamp housing was totally shattered so I had a pretty good clue it was time to replace the lamp.
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post #3848 of 4015 Old 09-09-2009, 07:20 AM
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Got the new color wheel. It helps if you don't pull out both trays, since you only need the light portion. It also helps that the connections on the logic side are not one size fits all.

I found multiple instructions on the 'net for getting into and replacing the wheel.
The most difficult parts were this:

1. The screws holding the old wheel in place were not phillips, they were torx 6. I now have a nice screw kit from radio shack that has 20 small heads for those tiny screws that I will encounter in life.

2. take pictures. Lots. as in every step of the way. especially when you have to route that brown flat cable through the silver piece for the color wheel.

3. Before inserting the new color wheel, unscrew the heat shield that blocks most of the light from the lamp bulb. Pull that out slightly, but don't remove it entirely. Insert the new color wheel, then put the heat shield back in place.
If you don't, the new wheel won't fit nicely and you'll hear small scratching noises.


The tv works nice now, although I had a scare on Monday when the hdmi port caused a green flashing screen. After more research, entering the service menu, testing out the colors, it worked fine.
(Also surprising that I have a little over 5100 hours on the original lamp.)
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post #3849 of 4015 Old 09-10-2009, 12:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scoosdad View Post

I've stayed out of the service menu on my HL-R4667W ever since I discovered that just by entering it, you reset all of the user menu picture settings back to the factory defaults. So if you've spent a lot of time tweaking the various brightness/contrast/color/sharpness settings for each of your inputs, they go bye-bye every time you just enter the service menu.

Just write down your settings and keep them in a safe place. I keep my list of settings for each input with my DVE DVD. I rarely go into the Service Menu though. I probably haven't been in there in 2-3 years and I've had the TV since Oct. '05.
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post #3850 of 4015 Old 09-10-2009, 04:18 PM
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I'll be kissing mine goodbye, as it seems to have the known defect with the digital board. The only Samsung certified shop in my state wants $800 for the part and $300 to install it. Of course that's not an option, but even if the price were to be lower, another of the known issues with this TV could surface (light tunnel, color wheel explosion, or just the bulb failing), and I wouldn't want to invest anything more into this obsolete set. It really burns me up to have to re-spend all this money again, after only 3.5 years, but all I can do is take it as a learning experience. The main thing is that TVs no longer last for years and years, so always buy the extended warranty. Of course, the warranty I got on the new one (Sharp 52" LCD) is 4yrs, so if something happens outside of that I'll be in the same boat again. I might have to just abandon TV at that point, as it's not worth $400 a year to me.
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post #3851 of 4015 Old 09-11-2009, 09:29 AM
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Yea, the reason I bought the warrenty on this was really because it did have mechanical parts to it, and a bulb. I got a decent deal, I think it was $150 for 5 years from date of purchase and at the time, I paid over 2k for the TV in Aug 2005(HLR-5667)

Of course it's held up pretty well, save a few little quirks. Still on the original bulb, brightness looks fine to me. I did have the digital board replaced under factory warrenty about 8 months after I got it, because it was shutting off on it's own.

I do like that flat panels don't really have any "mechanical" parts to them, and if something goes in them, it's not likely it's a simple cheap part, like many things in a car, for example. I'd be much less likely to buy a warrenty for an LCD or plasma with how "cheap" they have gotten. I won't buy another DLP again, despite the fact that mine has been pretty reliable.

The little things in this set like TVGOS(which I still use and it works), firewire inputs and CableCARD are IMPOSSIBLE to find in a modern HDTV. Impossible. That is what will make it hard to give up when the time comes.
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post #3852 of 4015 Old 09-30-2009, 02:37 PM
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My HLR 6768 just lost the color wheel. I placed an order at an online parts store only to find out it was on back order. I found another place online that said they had stock only to find out the same thing, they can't get them for like 3 weeks.

I looked on ebay with no luck. The Samsung part number is BP96-01103A, pretty common as it fits many sets.

Does anyone know what gives, and is there a reason why this part is hard to find. I would think somebody would have one of these sitting in a warehouse somewhere.

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post #3853 of 4015 Old 09-30-2009, 03:07 PM
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I just had a thought, could I simply get a different color wheel for a similar TV and replace just the motor and wheel in my housing instead of replacing the whole unit housing and everything?
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post #3854 of 4015 Old 09-30-2009, 03:29 PM
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If you don't mind removing the back, you can forestall or eliminate the need to replace colorwheels and bulbs by vaccuuming out the dust that accumulates inside the projection TV in a normal dusty environment. That includes the two fans inside that can clog up with this normal room dust. Once inside, the heat and debris can take out the set's components as it blankets them. You end up with mounting heat retention and physical obstruction that reduces components lifespan. Another tip: in addition to apower line conditioner that protects sensitive electronics, a smart addition to your media center room(s) is a hepa filter equipped air cleaner machine -- it nips the problem in the bud as an ounce of prevention for all your gear.
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post #3855 of 4015 Old 10-02-2009, 09:18 PM
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My HL-R6167W's digital board started flaking out pretty heavily the past week (exactly as described above, with the picture freezing, going black, flashing with green stripes, even a couple of full screen green 'plaid-like' effects.)

I had forgot I had purchased a 5 year extended warranty for it, had to check with the company I purchased the set through, and luckily its only been about 44 months.

Called NSI (the warranty company) up this past Wednesday, and they forwarded the repair request to a local shop. Apparently the local place has to get authorization from the warranty company before they can order the replacement parts.

Everywhere I've checked online lists a minimum 4-week back order for the digital board - so I have no idea how long it will take to to get this resolved.

Been tempted to just go get another TV, but somewhat limited finances at the moment and the current state of TV's in the 61"+ range has kept me patient. (Well, plus the fact that I found out if I unplug the TV and let it sit for 5-10 minutes, I can get about 2-3 hrs of TV viewing in before it flakes out again.)

Out of curiosity - have any of you guys that have had warranty work done deal with NSI (or Warrantech, guess they merged?) - wondering how easy/difficult they will make all this.
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post #3856 of 4015 Old 10-05-2009, 04:23 PM
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I tried searching for this topic but found nothing. Has anyone had experience with weird color issues when hooking a computer up to the VGA input?

It almost seems like it's forcing the computer to change to some sort of weird display driver.

When I hook the computer to a normal monitor, it looks great. When I unplug it and plug it into the HLR, it looks great until I reboot the computer. As soon as I reboot it, it looks all washed out and overly bright. No amount of messing with display settings will get it right.

Then, when I switch it back to the computer monitor (without turning off the computer) it looks horrible on that as well, until I reboot the computer, then it looks great again.

I can't figure out how to make it stop doing this.

thanks
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post #3857 of 4015 Old 10-12-2009, 09:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by awdorrin View Post

My HL-R6167W's digital board started flaking out pretty heavily the past week (exactly as described above, with the picture freezing, going black, flashing with green stripes, even a couple of full screen green 'plaid-like' effects.)

I had forgot I had purchased a 5 year extended warranty for it, had to check with the company I purchased the set through, and luckily its only been about 44 months.

Called NSI (the warranty company) up this past Wednesday, and they forwarded the repair request to a local shop. Apparently the local place has to get authorization from the warranty company before they can order the replacement parts.

Everywhere I've checked online lists a minimum 4-week back order for the digital board - so I have no idea how long it will take to to get this resolved.

Been tempted to just go get another TV, but somewhat limited finances at the moment and the current state of TV's in the 61"+ range has kept me patient. (Well, plus the fact that I found out if I unplug the TV and let it sit for 5-10 minutes, I can get about 2-3 hrs of TV viewing in before it flakes out again.)

Out of curiosity - have any of you guys that have had warranty work done deal with NSI (or Warrantech, guess they merged?) - wondering how easy/difficult they will make all this.

Where did they send you to get the warrenty repairs done? Just curious(I am originally from Owego/Apalachin) I have a 5yr on my 5667 through PC Richard, which is a chain downstate, but I'm not sure who they do their service work through. I got another 9 months left or so, mine has held up pretty well so far knock on wood... I had to get the digital board swapped out when it was about 8 months old but that was under factory warrenty so a Samsung tech came to my apt to repair it.

If something major happened to mine I would probably take a few hundred bucks credit towards buying a replacement model Samsung HDTV
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post #3858 of 4015 Old 10-12-2009, 07:29 PM
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Originally Posted by ak3883 View Post

Where did they send you to get the warrenty repairs done? Just curious(I am originally from Owego/Apalachin)
If something major happened to mine I would probably take a few hundred bucks credit towards buying a replacement model Samsung HDTV

Hyles Audio in Johnson City, NY was the closest repair shop, next nearest location was in East Syracuse (didn't ask the name)

Hyles got the go ahead from the warranty company to proceed with the repair and ordered the part last week. Unfortunately I got a call from them today saying that Samsung had no replacement part in stock.

Need to call them back tomorrow and see if I can get any more information. I'm kinda curious what happens if a part can't be located, or not located within a 'reasonable' amount of time...

For now, I've found that pulling the plug, waiting a minute or two, and plugging it back in seems to reset the TV for an hour or so.

Part of me would love to upgrade to a 1080p TV - but the 63" plasmas and 65" LCDs are still pretty pricey.
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post #3859 of 4015 Old 10-14-2009, 09:57 AM
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Hoping someone can help.

HLR-5067w
I entered the SM to reset bulb life and make a gamma change. I've done this before and know not to play with things I don't understand...but in this instance I unwittingly changed something...in the CCA menu I think..a misstep navigating with the remote -argh!!!

I now cannot access the color tones in the user menu (warm1,normal,cool,etc) they are greyed out. I searched for hours here and found an old thread of the exact same problem..a fellow named Eliab seemd to be able to help..but the solution was not made public. (sorry can't post urls yet)

Does anyone now which settings control the color tones or how I might correct this???

Thanks in advance!
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post #3860 of 4015 Old 10-18-2009, 05:48 PM
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Model number HLR 5067 WX/XAA. Back of TV lists Chassis as L64B. Inside of TV shows Chassis L3. Samsung seems to verify my model uses Bulb BP96-00826A and Chassis L3.

I need to order a new color wheel and would love to order the correct part the first time (ie. BP96-01103A for L6 chassis or BP96-00674A for L3 chassis).

Why do they list chassis as L64B if the TV has an L3 chassis? After reading through lots of posts I think Samsung is out to deliberately confuse and confound us.
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post #3861 of 4015 Old 10-19-2009, 08:45 AM
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I've got the "check the fan no.2" error on my TV. I've read about it in a few places, and I've ordered the lamp cooling fan. Once this is replaced, how does the TV know that the fan is working properly? I assume something in the wiring tells the board when there is an issue?

Will this replacement definitely fix my issue?

Thanks much.
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post #3862 of 4015 Old 10-25-2009, 06:36 PM
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post #3863 of 4015 Old 10-25-2009, 06:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Chops View Post

Hoping someone can help.

HLR-5067w
I entered the SM to reset bulb life and make a gamma change. I've done this before and know not to play with things I don't understand...but in this instance I unwittingly changed something...in the CCA menu I think..a misstep navigating with the remote -argh!!!

I now cannot access the color tones in the user menu (warm1,normal,cool,etc) they are greyed out. I searched for hours here and found an old thread of the exact same problem..a fellow named Eliab seemd to be able to help..but the solution was not made public. (sorry can't post urls yet)

Does anyone now which settings control the color tones or how I might correct this???

Thanks in advance!

http://www.mikeyp.com/weblog/enterta...rvicemenu.html

try this link
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post #3864 of 4015 Old 10-28-2009, 03:43 PM
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My 5067 is shutting off on its own. No certain amount of time needs to pass. It is usually on over an hour before it turns itself off. There are no other symptoms at all. The only light that turns on is the same one that turns on when the TV is off. Colors are all fine.

Is this how the board goes? Will other problems start soon?

I hope someone knows. Thanks!

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post #3865 of 4015 Old 10-28-2009, 04:04 PM
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I am going through the same thing with my TV. I own a HL-R5067W and my TV went out just around the 4 year mark. My screen went plaid. My screen was full of 1in x 1in green squares. Half of the squares are striped and the other half are solid. I have sound, but no picture. My TV kept cycling off and on every 30 seconds. Anyway, the 2nd authorized service tech came to my house to replace the 1st set of analog and digital boards last night and he said the 1st tech put the wrong boards in my TV. I have been rescheduled for next Tuesday. Sigh! The tech said that the software that controls the memory has a glitch in the programming. The software is causing a buffer overflow in memory and the TV does not know what to do with the data stream. This glitch only affects the early digital boards, not the new replacement boards. Samsung has fixed the problem in the software for the new digital boards, so I will not have this issue again. No problem, Samsung is paying for my TV. Samsung extended my warranty for my TV and contacted a local service company. Yea!
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post #3866 of 4015 Old 10-29-2009, 07:48 AM
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Hi dewar.......
Thank you for the link...I'll do some comparisons and maybe find out why my color tone controls have greyed out...
thanks again.
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post #3867 of 4015 Old 10-29-2009, 09:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mbyrnes View Post

My 5067 is shutting off on its own. No certain amount of time needs to pass. It is usually on over an hour before it turns itself off. There are no other symptoms at all. The only light that turns on is the same one that turns on when the TV is off. Colors are all fine.

Is this how the board goes? Will other problems start soon?

I hope someone knows. Thanks!

Mine did this within the first year. Since it was still under factory warrenty, Samsung tech came to my place and swapped the digital board(which included replacing the bulb as well). Never had a problem since. But it would turn off at random, no warning.
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post #3868 of 4015 Old 10-30-2009, 08:53 AM
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So I guess I am screwed. I had the TV on this morning and after 40 minutes it shut off. Turned it back on and 10 minutes later it turned off again. I am leaving it off for an hour or so and will see what happens later. Figures, the Phillies are in the World Series and my TV goes on the fritz.

I am not paying several hundred $ to fix what is now an antique. I was thinking of opening up the TV and cleaning off the boards. Maybe built up dust is causing something but that doesn't seem to be the case. This really sucks as I have taken such good care of my TV.

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post #3869 of 4015 Old 10-30-2009, 09:19 AM
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I have an HLR 4667. It is four years old. I recently had the light engine replaced by Samsung due to the infamous light tunnel collapse. Lately, I have been getting strange distortion in backgrounds of scenes in film based programs. Not at all in Live sports or commercials. This looks like Magenta circles on the walls and also colors faces a blotchy red in some scenes. Noitice it the most on close ups. Any Ideas? Easy fix? Please Help!
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post #3870 of 4015 Old 10-31-2009, 01:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mbyrnes View Post

So I guess I am screwed. I had the TV on this morning and after 40 minutes it shut off. Turned it back on and 10 minutes later it turned off again. I am leaving it off for an hour or so and will see what happens later. Figures, the Phillies are in the World Series and my TV goes on the fritz.

I am not paying several hundred $ to fix what is now an antique. I was thinking of opening up the TV and cleaning off the boards. Maybe built up dust is causing something but that doesn't seem to be the case. This really sucks as I have taken such good care of my TV.

Figured I would update everyone. The TV kept turning itself off, all the time (this just started happening a few weeks ago). Today it was terrible so the wife said lets go get a new TV (I almost crapped my pants she wanted to). I ended up getting a 50" Panasonic Plasma (S1). Samsung Plasmas I was interested in before this happened, but no way now. Not even 4 years with the 5067.

I now will open up the old DLP and see what I can find in there. If I manage to fix it I will give it to my sister or sell for a few bills. I may still try to sell as it can be used for parts. The bulb was changed less than a year ago and should have a lot of life left. I changed the first bulb at 7500 hours and it was still going (saved as a backup).

I really hope this doesn't happen to the majority of owners. I loved my TV and really didn't want to upgrade this soon. The new TV is a huge jump in PQ so the money can be justified. Good luck to everyone. I'll update if I manage to fix the old HLR-5067W to let others know.

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