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post #1 of 2774 Old 08-08-2005, 12:45 PM - Thread Starter
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So I got my set yesterday and using a THX optimizer disc set my video settings to the following values for each input:

Picture mode: Custom
Iris: 2 [or 3] for controlled movie room lighting; 3 or 4 for daytime TV
Picture: 90 [increased from 60 or 65 improved overall picture, lower Iris if too bright]
Brightness: 34 [40 with antenna input]
Color: 35 [35 - 40 for different TV programs]]
Hue: 0
Color Temp: warm-2 before calibration, [warm-1 after calibrating it to D65 reference]
Sharpness: 28 [ increased for TV after correcting picture level]
Noise Reduction: off
DRC: High Density
DRC Pallette: reality 20, clarity 40
Black Correction: off
Adv Vid- Advanced Iris: low
Adv Vid- Gamma: off
Adv Vid- Clear white: off
Adv Vid- Live Color: off

The picture then looked pretty good but with some red push; so I tried to lower that using the umr gwii tweaks and GWIV tweaks thread info but the service menu has changed. I poked around anyway and came up with the following change that seems to lower red-push. Unfortunately it looked to me (using only the THX optimizer color bars) like it added a slight amount of green push at the same time it lowered the red push. I have neither the service manual nor the test equipment to properly calibrate the color decoder but I am going to post what I tried anyway. If you try this it will be a little like taking painting advice from someone who has always been blind but I don't know if we could ever convince a real calibrator to post the correct fix. Maybe we will get lucky and umr will pity us and give us a clue after he has cal'ed an A10.

*** Warning: messing around in the service menu can damage your TV which would not be covered by warranty ***
Before messing around in the service menu you should read the info posted for the earlier GW tweak threads. It would also be a good idea to get a service manual from Sony parts first. [Manual does not explain service mode settings.]

Red Push Lowering:

(step -1) Start with a TV where all needed inputs have already been configured to best custom mode settings
(step 0) If necessary turn off TV and wait for bulb to turn off
(step 1) Press the following 4 key sequence without a pause:
(display) (5) (Volume +) (Power)
(step 2) Wait the normal turn on time for the debug screen to appear
(step 3) Select the desired input (ex. Press TV/Video) with a signal present- preferably a color test signal
(step 4) Press (jump) twice to get to service data screen
(step 5) Press (2) eight times to get to CST category
(step 5a) write down the current setting for CH_ITU_MODE1
(step 5b) press (6) until CH_ITU_MODE1 is set to 0000
(step 6) Press (1) once to get to CHAXIS 1 item
(step 7) Write down current setting
(step 8) Change the item value from 46 or 3c to 3b by pressing (6) to decrement the value. Observe the effect on the display, press (3) to increment setting back if desired
[edit: I am currently using the 17 setting for all inputs with 0]
(step 9) To save the new value press (mute) (ent) and wait for write to complete, skip this step if no change is desired [setting will stay without write until the set is unplugged]
(step 10) Press (jump) to return to the debug screen
Repeat steps 3 through 10 for each input and resolution, skipping steps 8 and 9 if the value is already decremented. I only needed to change one SD and one HD value for the other inputs to show the new value.
(step 11) From debug screen press (power) to turn the TV off and wait for the bulb to go out

[edit: if you power off without returning to the debug screen then when you power on the service menu will still be visible, you need to repeat the mistake to get the service menu to disappear. There is more info on this later in the thread]

[edit: removed factory reset procedure, here is Dark Rain's warning about factory resets:]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dark Rain View Post

I've read about people doing factory resets on other Sony TVs and it made several changes to the service menu that weren't there before. This may not apply to the A10, but I would rather be safe than sorry. It may also void your warranty if you have to call Sony to get it fixed.

I have now calibrated my grayscales using a spider2express plus the HCFR software and the getgray DVD. Thanks to Dark Rain's info below on setting grayscale. Here is a link to the HCFR thread:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&&#post8935559

- John
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post #2 of 2774 Old 08-08-2005, 01:28 PM
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thanks for the post deconvolver, my tv should be arriving within an hour and I'll be messing with settings and your tweaks this evening. I'll probably post late tonite on the results. Thanks again.
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post #3 of 2774 Old 08-08-2005, 02:13 PM
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Not trying to rain on anyone's parade, but I'd hold off going into the service menu until some others who are familiar with the service menu and color decoder adjustments have had time to muck around in there.

Its very easy to screw things up. That's when your new toy becomes a paper weight.
Be safe, not sorry.

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post #4 of 2774 Old 08-08-2005, 07:41 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimP View Post

Not trying to rain on anyone's parade, but I'd hold off going into the service menu until some others who are familiar with the service menu and color decoder adjustments have had time to muck around in there.

Its very easy to screw things up. That's when your new toy becomes a paper weight.
Be safe, not sorry.

Do you think that an ISF will be posting suggested tweaks in this forum? Without umr doing it I wonder who that would be. Since the service menu appears to have changed it will probably take a lot of work armed with the service manual and equipment to determine all the recommended tweaks. Of course correcting sample variation would require that each owner hire a calibrator but many of us would be happy with just a generic set of tweaks. I added a warning about the service menu to my post because I agree that there is the possibility of really messing things up if you change and and write the change for the wrong items. I didn't feel too worried after reading the previous tweak threads because I probably wouldn't write a change that would be disastrous. Still, it looks like if you messed with the wrong items that you could erase all the initial calibration that was done at the factory and if you wrote that change you would really mess up the TV.

- John
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post #5 of 2774 Old 08-08-2005, 08:16 PM
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I already mucked one TV up, two TVs ago. So when I got my last one, I was extremely careful. Guess you have to be there to fully appreciate how quickly this can happen.

And may I repeat, there is no Master Reset Button to return service menu settings to their original factory values. Write everything down and be sure that your set is being fed the resolution that you think it is.

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post #6 of 2774 Old 08-09-2005, 09:16 AM
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as long as you don't mess with anything that you don't know, u cannot "muck" up your tv messing with the color decoder adjustments.
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post #7 of 2774 Old 08-14-2005, 08:55 AM
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Bump. Has anyone else tried these tweaks?
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post #8 of 2774 Old 08-14-2005, 09:15 AM
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im nervous to start messing around with mine .. i guess ill wait till some more people have time to play around with it before i try
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post #9 of 2774 Old 08-14-2005, 03:14 PM
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Does turning "live color" ON not correct the red push? It's supposed to on other Sony sets.

Indecision may or may not be my problem.
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post #10 of 2774 Old 08-15-2005, 09:31 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mnc View Post

Does turning "live color" ON not correct the red push? It's supposed to on other Sony sets.

If I remember correctly when I turned on live color it added green push to the red push; this along with turning down the color control won't work to fix red push because then the blue is way off.

- John
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post #11 of 2774 Old 08-15-2005, 09:42 AM
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Live Color simply deepens the colors on screen. It's pretty worthless overall.


The setting I think you're confused with is the "red axis" setting that is available on a few Sony sets. It allows you to change this setting to "minitor" to easily eliminate the red push without going into the service menu.


As far as I know there are only 3 sets with this feature. The 30" and 34" XS CRT models. The 34" XBR960 model. Also, the 51" and 57" WS655 CRT RPTV models.


It's a great feature and I wish that Sony just put it on all of their tvs. How hard could it be?

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post #12 of 2774 Old 08-26-2005, 01:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deconvolver View Post


Red Push Lowering:

(step -1) Start with a TV where all needed inputs have already been configured to best custom mode settings
(step 0) If necessary turn off TV and wait for bulb to turn off
(step 1) Press the following 4 key sequence without a pause:
(display) (5) (Volume +) (Power)
(step 2) Wait the normal turn on time for the debug screen to appear
(step 3) Select the desired input (ex. Press TV/Video) with a signal present- preferably a color test signal
(step 4) Press (jump) twice to get to service data screen
(step 5) Press (2) eight times to get to CST category
(step 6) Press (1) once to get to CHAXIS 1 item
(step 7) Write down current setting
(step 8) Change the item value from 46 to 45 or from 2c to 2b by pressing (6) to decrement the value by one. Observe the effect on the display, press (3) to increment setting back if desired
(step 9) To save the new value press (mute) (ent) and wait for write to complete, skip this step if no change is desired
(step 10) Press (jump) to return to the debug screen
Repeat steps 3 through 10 for each input and resolution, skipping steps 8 and 9 if the value is already decremented. I only needed to change one SD and one HD value for the other inputs to show the new value.
(step 11) From debug screen press (power) to turn the TV off and wait for the bulb to go out


After making the change I increased the Color settings for each input to 40. I have not played a wide variety of content on the TV yet so I will probably continue to adjust the user settings like color and sharpness.

[edit: changed repeat to steps 3 to 10]


Good tip.

My default for the CH_AXIS1 setting was 003C. When I went to 003B the red push definitely was minimized, but as you said, a green push was added. For fun, I continued to decrease the value and when I hit 0002 the red was minimized without increasing the green. It seems that each setting number has an effect, but not a incremental one. I will be curious to know what you think!

Please post any additonal details about the service menu. I had an older Sony set and got comfortable with the service menu. The A10 menu is significantly different and I can't make heads or tails of it.

I am especially curious if you have figured out any of the MID-5 type settings. I didn't see those parameter names when I cycled through the menu.

Also, I noticed a category called PC_CONFIG. In that category (25) there is a parameter called PANEL_UNDER_SCAN. I got very excited when I saw it, but it appeared to have no effect on the Under Scan of input 7. Any thoughts?

I hope this thread picks up. Keeping up with the huge 2500 post A10 thread is tough. The tweek info and dialog gets lost in the mix.

Thanks.
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post #13 of 2774 Old 08-26-2005, 02:33 PM
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Anyone here have success using the "Zoom" mode to get rid of PC / VGA underscan?
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post #14 of 2774 Old 08-30-2005, 09:23 PM
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OK - just had my set "fixed" by authorized Sony center and the picture is no longer square - anyone know how how to ajust the left/right tilt of the picture - not sure I want to get the same clowns back in to fix this.

thanx
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post #15 of 2774 Old 08-31-2005, 11:06 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by npm View Post

Good tip.

My default for the CH_AXIS1 setting was 003C. When I went to 003B the red push definitely was minimized, but as you said, a green push was added. For fun, I continued to decrease the value and when I hit 0002 the red was minimized without increasing the green. It seems that each setting number has an effect, but not a incremental one. I will be curious to know what you think!

Please post any additonal details about the service menu. I had an older Sony set and got comfortable with the service menu. The A10 menu is significantly different and I can't make heads or tails of it.

I am especially curious if you have figured out any of the MID-5 type settings. I didn't see those parameter names when I cycled through the menu.

Also, I noticed a category called PC_CONFIG. In that category (25) there is a parameter called PANEL_UNDER_SCAN. I got very excited when I saw it, but it appeared to have no effect on the Under Scan of input 7. Any thoughts?

I hope this thread picks up. Keeping up with the huge 2500 post A10 thread is tough. The tweek info and dialog gets lost in the mix.

Thanks.

I have not yet ordered the service manual but if I can and the $ aren't outrageous then I plan to. I don't think I will mess with much except the color decoder without the manual.

- John
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post #16 of 2774 Old 09-02-2005, 02:33 PM
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where do you order the service manual from?

thanx
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post #17 of 2774 Old 09-02-2005, 06:20 PM
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Don't bother with the manual. Mine arrived today and it's useless. Tells you how to get into the service menu, but nothing whatsoever about the settings.
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post #18 of 2774 Old 09-02-2005, 10:22 PM
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Here are my settings, calibrated with Avia, and then tweaked to perfection:

I use these settings with my Toshiba XA2 HD-DVD player hooked up w/ HDMI.

Picture mode: Custom
Iris: 1
Picture: 68
Brightness: 46
Color: 40
Hue: G1
Color Temp: Warm 1
Sharpness: 45
Noise Reduction: Off
Black Correction: off
Adv Vid- Advanced Iris: medium
Adv Vid- Gamma: low
Adv Vid- Clear white: off
Adv Vid- Live Color: off
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post #19 of 2774 Old 09-07-2005, 04:24 PM
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Been playing in the service menu and agree with NPM, 0002 seems to be the optimal setting. The red push is eliminated without screwing with the other colors.

Another setting I noticed has some bearing on the reds is the first one that displays when you get to the CST settings. There are only like 4 values, 0000-0003. I'm pretty sure 0000 is the default, but it may be 0002. I honestly can't remember. 0003 screws the colors up completely, 0002 made some reds look slightly orange... 0001 adds magenta, and 0000 seems to be the neutral baseline.

Kai
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post #20 of 2774 Old 09-08-2005, 03:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BBQmyNUTZ View Post

Been playing in the service menu and agree with NPM, 0002 seems to be the optimal setting. The red push is eliminated without screwing with the other colors.

I have been living with that setting and am quite happy with the colors on the set. I have set the color (user setting) to 42-45.

I would recommend that anyone going to change that setting, reset their their user setting for color back to 50. You'll really see the difference. I still chose to tone the color down a little to 42-45 depending on the source.

Also, that service menu tweak seems to affect inputs 1-6 at once. You will need to set it again for input 7 (PC) if you want it to affect that input.

b
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post #21 of 2774 Old 09-08-2005, 05:44 PM
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After applying some of the settings mentioned above, I found the picture to look more like a dlp, more natural colors. Nothing wrong with that, i just like the brighter color of the lcd. It still looked like a 50" lcd, don't get me wrong. I'm referring to the color, I guess. Once I get mine down, i 'll throw them up here. Cable / dvr come next week.
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post #22 of 2774 Old 09-27-2005, 12:04 AM
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Didn't want this to get lost in a 121 page thread:

OK,

Here are the settings for my 42" A10.

I am just an "average guy" who wants to watch TV and am not any kind of "expert" in any sense of the word when it comes to TV or HDTV or home theater, so I am sure that these settings look awful to some of these folks but they work well for me in my viewing environment.

These settings were not determined with any calibration disk or advanced tools, just my eyeballs and the old "Color Bars" test pattern that appears on one of my Cable channels when no show is being broadcast.

The goal of these settings was to provide a good compromise between day and night television viewing arrangments. My TV is located in the corner of a living room that has windows and is attached to a kitchen with patio slider doors. All of them have ordinary blinds but no special room-darkening shades. For nighttime viewing, an indirect light lamp is used for illumination. It is possible to read books and newspapers in the same room at night, so this is not "low light" conditions.

So I am NOT looking for some perfect ISF-like calibration that only works well in room with no windows or lighting. Most of these style settings perform poorly in a typical living room, with dim washed out color and brightness.

Basically, I wanted something close to the Sony STANDARD setting, but with better shadow details and less oversaturated colors.

As someone else said here, missing shadow detail can be detected by watching a local news broadcast or a CSPAN broadcast with men in dark suits that usually contain pinstripes or other details. Most of this detail is lost in the VIVID or STANDARD settings. As a Red Sox fan, color oversaturation is obvious from viewing the red part of the uniforms and crowd t-shirts and also the grass color during a baseball broadcast.

Many of these settings are either:
copied from the STANDARD setting
copied from other users' posts here
left alone by me

Anyways, here goes:
CUSTOM

Iris=2
Generally reported as the best iris setting for typical use. I agree.

Picture=85
Need a value between 80 and 90 for STANDARD mode like bright TV image

Brightness=54
For a given iris and picture setting, I needed to bring out the shadow details.
Before doing anything else, I turned OFF the black corrector first.
I tuned in to the "color bars" test image from my cable public access channel. Directly under the RED color bar is a black box that contains 3 vertical black stripes of varying subtle shades of black. I adjusted the brightness number until I could barely see the dividing line between each vertical stripe. This greatly improved my shadow details. According to the color bar calibration instructions, you are supposed to make the "left" stripe blend into the "middle" stripe because the left stripe shade is called "blacker than black" and this shade is not present in normal television broadcasts. Well, THEY LIE. I can see an improvement with shadow details if I adjust it so that I can still barely see the dividing line between all 3 stripes.

Color=39
I was looking to tone down the color oversaturation without making the picture seem "washed out". It appears that a lower value, maybe 36, completely gets rid of the oversaturation even for Red Sox Logos but it makes the picture seem washed out for daytime viewing. 39 seemed to be a good compromise for me. Your preferences may vary.

Hue = 0
I tried playing around with color temps and hues but I could not get the colors to look "right" to me. Maybe I am already conditioned to think that STANDARD hues are "just right", but that's the way that I feel. My best guess is that it is impossible to get the color hues "just right" without making adjustments in the service menu, and I don't want to play around in there.

Color Temp = Neutral
See "Hue" comments

Sharpness=35
Seems like a good compromise to me. I watch analog SD and digital SD and HD. If I only watched HD, I could probably set it to "0" without any problems.

Noise Reduction=OFF
The only reason to turn this ON is if you have REALLY BAD quality analog cable signal, OR if you watch over-the-air analog television with an antenna.

DRC mode=High Density
No comment

DRC Pallet:
Reality=20
Clarity=94
Made a BIG IMPROVEMENT for standard definition channels.

ADVANCED VIDEO

Black Corrector=OFF
You MUST turn this off if you want ANY hope of seeing shadow details.

Advanced Iris=LOW
I did not want to completely disable this function, as it helps in some situations. Low does not bother me and I do not hear the Iris servo motor whirring a lot as far as I can tell.

Gamma=LOW
Why Not?

Clear White=OFF
It didn't make much of a difference either way, so I turned it off.

Live Color=LOW
The only way that I could get STANDARD mode like color hues was to set this value to LOW. Otherwise, the colors had a reddish tint that could not be brought back into my perception of "normal" (IE: STANDARD mode) by making adjustments to HUE and Color Temp. So the easy way out is to set the HUE back to 0 and the Color Temp back to Neutral and then turn Live Color to LOW


In conclusion, I have used these settings for a few weeks now for normal daytime and nighttime (with room light) TV viewing and am satisfied with the results.

However, if anyone has suggestions for improvements, keeping in mind MY lighting conditions, please feel free to offer them.

Thanks, and hope this helps someone.
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post #23 of 2774 Old 09-27-2005, 03:34 AM
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I will post my settings for each input I'm using on my Sony 42A10 as I've gotten several PMs asking for it. We should probably keep bumping this thread to keep it active for a awhile.

These settings are for low/mid-level lighting for day and night viewing. These settings give a more "flat" look since my lighting conditions do not change very much. I don't like overly contrasted/saturated whites or colors. Fine detail is lost and it causes eye strain which makes viewing the TV less enjoyable.

Viewing distance from my 42A10 is around 7 to 8 feet.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Update settings for red push fix - 9/6/06

Some confusion has arose out of which settings look best. IMO you should be using these two settings for every input to get the best color rendering from the A10's color decoder:

CH_ITU_MODE1 - 0000

CH_AXIS1 - 0017

*Both settings need to be be changed to the values listed. Read the first post in this thread for instructions on how to fix the red push. Be sure to write down the default values BEFORE making ANY changes in the service menu.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

***Grayscale Tweak***

Update 9/7/06

I'm back to using this tweak.

***BE SURE TO WRITE DOWN YOUR DEFAULT SETTINGS BEFORE MAKING ANY CHANGES IN THE SERVICE MENU***

The first step is getting into the SM. Follow the same steps that you do for the red push fix:

(step -1) Start with a TV where all needed inputs have already been configured to best custom mode settings
(step 0) If necessary turn off TV and wait for bulb to turn off
(step 1) Press the following 4 key sequence without a pause:
(display) (5) (Volume +) (Power)
(step 2) Wait the normal turn on time for the debug screen to appear
(step 3) Press (jump) twice to get to service data screen

***Grayscale fix starts here***

(step 4) Press (5) four times to get to the D9809PIC item.

(step 5) Press (1) four times to get to the RGAIN setting.

(step 6) Press (6) three times. This will be your new RGAIN value.

***Note that the above setting is for an Iris setting of 1. I've changed my Iris setting to 2 for all inputs and the value above will be different. My RGAIN setting is currently set to 007E.***

(step 7) Press (1) two times to get to the BGAIN setting.

(step 8) Press (6) sixteen times. This will be your new BGAIN value.

(step 9) To save the new values press (mute) (ent) and wait for write to complete.

(step 10) Press (jump) to return to the debug screen

(step 11) From debug screen press (power) to turn the TV off and wait for the bulb to go out

(step 12) Turn the TV back on and change the Color Temp to Warm 2 for every input you're using. You must be using a Custom picture mode to use Warm 2.


These settings are based on Bill's procedure to fix the grayscale. The above method is intended for those that use the Advanced Iris on LOW (Medium and High might need different values). What you're doing is getting the color temp very close to 6500k, which is the reference standard for the most natural color rendering on a display. If for some reason you don't like the look of 6500k, you can switch the color temp to Warm 1 or Neutral for a bluer look. You might find that Neutral looks a lot better now since it's tracking at about 9300k.


FOR YOUR REFERENCE

RGAIN - lower it by 3 clicks from your default setting
GGAIN - leave it at default
BGAIN - lower it by 16 clicks from your default setting

RBIAS - leave it at default
GBIAS - leave it at default
BBIAS - leave it at default

The settings above are based on Bill's (zmn668) settings. A big thanks go out to him for finding this tweak. The grayscale on your A10 may need slightly different settings to get it closer to 6500k. For better accuracy, it is recommended that you use a colorimeter or get your A10 ISF calibrated.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

The settings listed below for my components should be used as a guide to help you get the most out of your A10. Obviously everyone has different tastes and different HT gear. So, simply use my settings as a primer and then adjust further if needed.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

SD analog cable using the A10's RF coax input:

*Recommended for best PQ over the cable box analog tuner
*Calibrated by eye

Iris - 2
Picture - 80
Brightness - 48
Color - 31
Hue - G5 (*based on red push fix values above)
Color Temp - Warm 2
Sharpness - 20
Noise Reduction - Off
DRC Mode - High Density
DRC Palette -
Reality 40
Clarity 40
Black Corrector - Off
Advanced Iris - Low
Gamma - Max
Clear White - Off
Live Color - Off

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

HD and SD digital cable (Motorola 6412 HD DVR cable box w/component out):

*For 6412 Phase II or III units
*Calibrated with INHD tune up and by eye

Iris - 2
Picture - 80
Brightness - 48
Color - 31
Hue - G5 (*based on red push fix values above)
Color Temp - Warm 2
Sharpness - 15
Noise Reduction - Off

DRC Mode - High Density (*For viewing SD channels through the cable box)
DRC Palette -
Reality 40
Clarity 40

Black Corrector - Off
Advanced Iris - Low
Gamma - Max
Clear White - Off
Live Color - Off

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

DVD (Oppo OPDV971H w/DVI-HDMI out):

*Calibrated with Digital Video Essentials DVD
*DVD player set to upconvert to 720p

Iris - 2
Picture - 90
Brightness - 51
Color - 31
Hue - G5 (*based on red push fix values above)
Color Temp - Warm 2
Sharpness - 23
Noise Reduction - Off
Black Corrector - Off
Advanced Iris - Low
Gamma - Max
Clear White - Off
Live Color - Off

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

VCR (Hitachi HI-FI VHS 4 head player w/composite out):

*Calibrated by eye

Iris - 2
Picture - 80
Brightness - 48
Color - 31
Hue - G5 (*based on red push fix values above)
Color Temp - Warm 2
Sharpness - 15
Noise Reduction - Low
DRC Mode - High Density
DRC Palette -
Reality 30
Clarity 90
Black Corrector - Off
Advanced Iris - Low
Gamma - Max
Clear White - Off
Live Color - Off
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post #24 of 2774 Old 09-27-2005, 05:03 AM
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bump diddy bump bump
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post #25 of 2774 Old 09-27-2005, 03:43 PM
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bump
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post #26 of 2774 Old 09-28-2005, 10:01 AM
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Dark Rain,

Thank's for the settings.
42A10...ROCKS !!!!!!!!
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post #27 of 2774 Old 09-28-2005, 10:41 AM
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Nice to see some other people's settings. My settings are pretty much dead-on with Dark Rain's, although his Picture setting is a bit lower (mine's at 85). I need to play around a bit more, but I'm pretty satisfied right now.

For your guy's settings, did you use the "red push" fix that started this thread? I had good luck in the past with Sony TVs eliminating the "red push", but this service menu is a bit more confusing than those in the past. I'll give the fix a try tonight, as it's really the only thing bothering me; hopefully it'll fix the f***ed up greens too. Stuipd color bars

Xbox Live Gamertag: aron23
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post #28 of 2774 Old 09-28-2005, 12:18 PM
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Is there some kind of consensus, which color temperature is best once you changed CH_AXIS1 to 0002? I've been playing around with this, starting with Neutral, but ending up with Warm 2. Is this what others are using as well?

BTW, I noticed that the default setting for CH_AXIS1 was the same for all external inputs (3c), but it is different for the the internal tuner (46).
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post #29 of 2774 Old 09-28-2005, 01:21 PM
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High density leaves interlaced artifacts"line jittering"..Cinemotion seems much smoother..
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post #30 of 2774 Old 09-28-2005, 03:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zues View Post

High density leaves interlaced artifacts"line jittering"..Cinemotion seems much smoother..

It only works on film-based content for reverse 3:2 pulldown. It has nothing to do with DRC.
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